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	<title>V11 Le Mans Technical</title>
	<description></description>
	<link>http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php</link>
	<pubDate>Thu, 17 May 2012 17:40:42 +0000</pubDate>
	<ttl>15</ttl>
	<item>
		<title>Charge and Neutral lights when hot</title>
		<link>http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17415</link>
		<description><![CDATA[There's a few posts about problems with hot running about town but I haven't seen the symptoms I describe below mentioned anywhere, hence a new topic.<br />
<br />
I took my V11 into the City of London today through rush hour heavy traffic in order to get to a meeting. <br />
<br />
After stop/go at countless lights, waiting in traffic queues because I couldn't get through, and then searching around in vain for bike park, the engine was getting really hot (and it is no way near summer here, the air's quite chilly still!). <br />
<br />
That's when it started playing up. First the charge light started coming on at tickover (at least it ticked over!). If I blipped, the charge light went out but came back just above tickover. I switched off the headlamp but that didn't seem to help. <br />
<br />
Then the Neutral light started glowing even when not in neutral: then it was on all the time in any gear indistinguishable from Neutral. The engine was getting quite grumpy, popping a bit and running lumpy and it was with some relief that I finally got it into a bike park and wondered if it would start again when time to go.<br />
<br />
Two hours later after the meeting, cold engine, it started up and behaved impeccably in the rather lighter traffic and there seem to be no lasting ill effects.<br />
<br />
What's going on here?<br />
Is the hot engine breaking the Neutral light insulation down perhaps? <br />
What about the poor charging at tickover?<br />
<br />
Sound familiar to anyone? <br />
<br />
Andy H]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 17 May 2012 17:40:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17415</guid>
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		<title>Dirty plugs with PC III</title>
		<link>http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17411</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I have now had my Ballabio for about 2000 miles. It is mostly stock except for exhaust and a PCIII. This weekend I set about to do my annual maintenance.  The plugs were very carbonized with a tighter gap than spec.  Is this carbonization to be expected with a PC III?  If not I guess I need to learn how to tune the thing, the carbon buildup seemed extreme, and I am no shrinking violet on the throttle...<br />
<br />
Then again, I have no idea how long they were in there.  The bike does seem to run nicer with the newer proerly gapped plugs.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 16 May 2012 13:58:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17411</guid>
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	<item>
		<title>Gearbox fluid drain on Ballabio?</title>
		<link>http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17405</link>
		<description>I was planning on changing the fluid in my gearbox today.  After I got back from the warmup ride I changed the final drive fluid then started for the gearbox.  The only thing I can find that looks like a drain plug is directly above the catalytic converter.  Please tell me I am wrong!  (2004 US Ballabio)</description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 14 May 2012 21:01:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17405</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Weeping Fork Seal</title>
		<link>http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17404</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I just got my forks overhauled for the first first time since I got the bike (do most stuff myself but there was some work needed on stripped/seized fastener threads so while I was at it...). There's slight weeping in the fork seals leaving a black tide mark, more on the left than on the right, after a run which shouldn't happen this soon after seal replacement. I should get through the annual MOT next month, if I wipe down first but I want to fix in the longer term.<br />
<br />
The bike's got 16K miles on the clock, but I don't know how long it was run without a odo/speedo and I'm sure it had somewhat more than that. Looking at the fork stanchions I suspect the problem is a worn hard chrome surface: no pitting but it's just a bit too shiny on the front, perhaps from being run for too long with too little oil and no overhaul. On the other hand, it may be just a problem with this generation of fork (2000).<br />
<br />
If the former is the case, outright front fork stanchion replacement will be expensive. Some specialists offer a fork rechroming service for normal forks, but for upside-down? Is this a cheaper option or even possible?<br />
<br />
Anyone with any experience of this? If you know of a good such supplier in the UK, let me know.<br />
<br />
AndyH]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 14 May 2012 20:37:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17404</guid>
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	<item>
		<title>Immobiliser problem</title>
		<link>http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17402</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I have recently bought a 2004 V11Tenni, it has a button on the key. I had never used this button and the bike has always started but last Friday I took it for an MOT and when I went to start it she just turned over but wouldn't start. The proprietor of the shop came out took the key out, pressed the button and she started. The next day I went for a ride, must have stopped and started the bike at least 5 times with no problem, then went to a mates house to show it off and guess what? She wouldn't fire. There is no prime sound from the fuel injection although she will turn over. <br />
Please forgive the long story but the question is, have I got an after market immobiliser, if so I will have to find it and remove it or, is this factory fitted, if so is there a cure?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 14 May 2012 09:25:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17402</guid>
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