2001 V11. Charge light came on, neutral light when out. On investigation the 30 amp fuse was completely melted in the fuse holder. Pulled it out and replaced. When running getting 13 volts but 30 amp fuse started smoking. It is getting so hot it melts the plastic. I will try to source a fuse box. Any thoughts on cause?
Searching the forum came across the "Maxi" fuse thread. Will give that a try.
30 amp fuse melting
Started By
jay904cc
, Jul 02 2012 04:55 AM
8 replies to this topic
#2
Jeffro
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- 8 posts
Rookie
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My bike(s):
V11 Sport
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Location:
New Zealand
Posted 02 July 2012 - 06:01 AM
Hi,
Check the connectors at rear of fuse block!
This happened to me a couple of times,replaced the fuse all good for a while but the last time it did it it melted the holder and fuse together, left me stranded on the side of the road! Turned out there was a loose connection at the rear of fuse block causing fuse to run hot under load. I cut the wires feeding in and out of the block and soldered an after market heavy duty fuse holder in between. Never had an issue since, that was over a year and 15000km ago.
Check the connectors at rear of fuse block!
This happened to me a couple of times,replaced the fuse all good for a while but the last time it did it it melted the holder and fuse together, left me stranded on the side of the road! Turned out there was a loose connection at the rear of fuse block causing fuse to run hot under load. I cut the wires feeding in and out of the block and soldered an after market heavy duty fuse holder in between. Never had an issue since, that was over a year and 15000km ago.
#3
docc
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- 3,993 posts
"I live here"
- Location:middle Tennessee, USA
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My bike(s):
2000 V11 Sport
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Location:
middle Tennessee, USA
Posted 02 July 2012 - 03:40 PM
Nice to hear the search function is usable! Nasty Hiccup thread
I went to the MAXI fuse after I continued to have problems with the standard fuse size even in external holders.
Check also the condition of the yellow stator wires inside the alternator cover and be sure your regulator has a ground strap to the case.
I went to the MAXI fuse after I continued to have problems with the standard fuse size even in external holders.
Check also the condition of the yellow stator wires inside the alternator cover and be sure your regulator has a ground strap to the case.
#4
jay904cc
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- 2 posts
Rookie
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My bike(s):
2001 V11, 69 V7
Posted 03 July 2012 - 02:59 AM
Nice to hear the search function is usable! Nasty Hiccup thread
I went to the MAXI fuse after I continued to have problems with the standard fuse size even in external holders.
Check also the condition of the yellow stator wires inside the alternator cover and be sure your regulator has a ground strap to the case.
Did you just solder in a maxi fuse holder to existing wires or run all new? I was planning on running new 10 gauge wire from the regulator to the fuse back to batt. but if (after checking all other grounds, connections, etc) the existing wires are adequate I might do that.
#5
docc
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- 3,993 posts
"I live here"
- Location:middle Tennessee, USA
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My bike(s):
2000 V11 Sport
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Location:
middle Tennessee, USA
Posted 03 July 2012 - 04:00 AM
I did just lap solder into the wiring at the rear of the harness. As the thread shows, I used infra-red measurement to assess heat.
It is also good to check your voltages: static, idle, and charging.
The AGM batteries do like charging at more than 14 volts.
It is also good to check your voltages: static, idle, and charging.
The AGM batteries do like charging at more than 14 volts.
#6
thebronze
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- 63 posts
Guzzisti
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My bike(s):
Lemans
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Location:
United States -
Posted 13 August 2012 - 05:19 PM
Crap, I just replaced the green 30amp fuse because the plastic base was melted. Guess I need to check the charging wires and connections.
#7
Guzzirider
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- 4,041 posts
"I live here"
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My bike(s):
1100 Cafe Racer, Quota 1100ES & Daytona RS Project Berserker
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Location:
England -
Posted 13 August 2012 - 05:55 PM
The 30 amp on Helen's V11 blew the other day because the regulator / rectifier was toast.
#8
thebronze
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- 63 posts
Guzzisti
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My bike(s):
Lemans
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Location:
United States -
Posted 14 August 2012 - 04:02 PM
After reading a few other threads about this issue yesterday, I ran home and looked at my rectifier ground wire. I thought the PO had run a new one down to the alt cover. I was wrong, the wire ran up into an electrical tape loom. Looked like whoever did it ran it back to the battery. So I cut a piece of really thick black wire up, soldered on two ends and bolted it on at the alt cover. Cleaned up the ground points and fired up the bike to make sure I didnt screw anything up. Seemed to run fine. The rectifier seems a bit cooler. Waited till 8 and the temps dropped a little(100 to 94) and went for a ride. It seemed to run a little cleaner, smoother, maybe crisper. I hit all the stop signs and lights on purpose, trying to get the bike to hiccup but it didnt. I'm not sure this fixed the issue since by the time I got home it had cooled down to around 88f. The hiccup seems really bad when its in the high 90's. I'll keep an eye on that 30a fuse, i'm thinking about converting it to a maxi fuse and holder per DOCC's suggestions. Thanks all for the tips.
#9
docc
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- 3,993 posts
"I live here"
- Location:middle Tennessee, USA
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My bike(s):
2000 V11 Sport
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Location:
middle Tennessee, USA
Posted 14 August 2012 - 09:24 PM
24,000 miles and 4 years since my MAXI fuse change and all's well with it. As many of you may recall or have read, I tried several other solutions first.
See the long, drawn out thread "Nasty Hiccup" for a compendium of various things that contribute to the hiccup including: regulator issues, broken stator wire, crappy coil output connection, faulty TPS, Engine Temperature Sensor . . .
I also shoot for a 5,000 mile tune-up interval for valve adjustment, fresh plugs, and throttle body balance. I don't monkey with the TPS and idle anymore after doing it repeatedly over a period of two or three years.
See the long, drawn out thread "Nasty Hiccup" for a compendium of various things that contribute to the hiccup including: regulator issues, broken stator wire, crappy coil output connection, faulty TPS, Engine Temperature Sensor . . .
I also shoot for a 5,000 mile tune-up interval for valve adjustment, fresh plugs, and throttle body balance. I don't monkey with the TPS and idle anymore after doing it repeatedly over a period of two or three years.
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