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  1. Today
  2. I don't think it can give you a 500usd satisfaction.
  3. Woo hoo! Count me in..am local so will not be camping. Will be great to see ya.
  4. I found the bolts on my '97 to be f***ing TIGHT. But both ends still slid on the shafts. After <insert u-joint horror story> I cleaned everything and tightened the bolts until I felt the yoke clamp the shafts, then torqued. In the end it was to about book spec for that fastener/thread, which escapes me at the moment. My conclusion is that the fit and finish at the factory, coupled with inadequate initial torque allows a bit of wear- or 'smoothing' and goes slack in the splines. Has anyone read the factory maintenance documents, to find if they recommend periodic retorquing?
  5. Yesterday
  6. Mikko

    ANSWERED Best Relay

    No problem..I'm actually German/Italian.... So, ihr willkommen amico mio guzzi
  7. something like that with shipping..then however much for a sensor.
  8. Still waiting for ScuRoo to add a V85TT to his profile along with the ScuraR . . .
  9. Yeah, the drawing was elucidating, far better than what I have. But I was referring to your lucid explanation.
  10. The My15M should cost 500USD nowadays?
  11. Glad you like it, many thanks to Carl Allison for all the work he has done on Guzzi drawings Google Carl Allison drawings http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/sportissimo.html
  12. Wow, Kiwi_Roy, clearly and succinctly stated. Inroads into my puny brain, so thank you for schooling me. Much easier to conceptualize. I had a print/copy of the wiring diagram, it was fuzzy, written in Italian in 4pt type, printed in black and white and I believe topped with marinara sauce for good measure; Tolstoy translated into Swahili for my befuddlement, in other words. Thx.
  13. The schematic shows several grounds around the ECU but I don't think it shows the one to the case, That one is not required to make the bike run but its general practice to ground any metal surrounding electronics, it helps shield it from nuclear explosions, death rays and such. The main ground directly below the battery is the most important it should be fixed to a gearbox bolt, some VIIs, mine includes had it attached to one of the screws holding the seat release lock. If the main ground becomes detached when you go to start the bike the starter current tries to find another way back to the battery, often through the long ground wire shown from the Voltage Regulator to battery negative. When your bike was nice and new the regulator was grounded to the chassis by its mounting bolts. All the charging current over 30 Amp spikes has to find it's way from the chassis to the regulator case so it can get back to the alternator, there is too much resistance in the black wire and you lose some Voltage thats why we add another ground from case to an engine bolt. (this only applies to the OEM Ducati Energia regulators, later ones have a dedicated ground wire)
  14. Duly admonished. I'll scrutinize the condition of the ground connections on the gearbox and elsewhere. So you're saying that the crispy wire grounds the ECU and leads back to either the regulator or the lighting circuits? To bypass the crispy wire I can ground the terminal on top of the ECU to a proper ground site and leave the burned wire in the harness? It appears that the harness with the burned wire turns towards the rear of the bike. Thanks to you and all who've offered help and advice.
  15. Thanks for the offer, Mikko! That's very nice of you, but I've talked to a buddy who has a US address and he is going to take care of the shipping for me. But thanks again! Or, if Mikko is Finnish, kiitos!
  16. So, as MartyNZ pointed out, this is what can happen if the main ground at the rear of the gearbox on the right is neglected. Service that well! The ground on the ECU grounds the ECU case. The crispy wire in the harness comes from up front, possibly the regulator (you should ground that case separately) or the lighting.
  17. I looked at the posts that were cited. Thanks for pointing them out. It sounds as though something on the order of what was described is what had previously happened on my bike. There appears to be damage to one ground wire only. It is a light gauge wire that comes out of the harness that plugs into the ECU. You can see the connection to the ECU in the lower left hand corner of the photo. There are three ground wires ganged together in this gaggle coming from the larger harness. It was wrapped in electrical tape by the previous owner. Two of these ground wires which had been wrapped by electrical tape were fine. One came from a trio of wires, brown/black/white that were in the harness wrapped as a group, one came off the plug scan tool receptacle (which you can see in the top/middle of the pic), The third wire is toast, the insulation was destroyed as far down as I peeled back the main wrap around the harness, it was horrifying to discover. No other wire seemed to be affected even though they were in proximity. Is the ground connection to the top of the ECU a normal setup? Would the third (burned insulation) wire be a ground from the ECU to ground? Most of the strands on the burned wire were detached, just a couple of strands left, but there did not seem to be any problem with the function of the bike. Once I started to un-wrap the electrical tape, the burned wire disintegrated. Does this burned wire come from somewhere else? If so would anyone speculate where? Does it provide a ground from the head of the bolt on the ECU and therefore I could substitute an independent wire from the ECU bolt to a proper ground as has been suggested? I was an arguably normal person prior to stumbling on this, now my olfactory imagines wires of every stripe are smoldering everywhere. Paranoia sucks.
  18. Any good hardware store would have something that could work. Otherwise, use a short button-head bolt to plug it.
  19. You can buy the sensor here https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/vishay-bc-components/NTCLE203E3302SB0/BC2730-ND/2601763 The one you want has the R25 at 3000 Ohms NTCLE203E3302 SB They use 25 degrees C as a reference point. http://www.vishay.com/docs/29118/ntcle203.pdf On page 3 column 2
  20. Hello, I am looking for the small round black rrubber cover on the brake/clutch pump to cover where the side mirror is normally fixed. Anyone knows where to find this (I tried Stein Dinze and Wendel in Berlin but they do not have it). Thanks a lot.
  21. Have you heard someone say "When disconnecting the battery disconnect the Negative first", that's what happens if you don't. Never mind I see Rolf has it covered I think everyone does it once, the resulting flash gets your attention.
  22. Have you seen KiwiRoy's picture of what can happen when the main ground comes loose on the gearbox? Could your bike have had that problem sometime in the past? https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20813-electric-problem/&do=findComment&comment=239405 https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19212-brand-new-guzzi-owner-please-chime-in/&do=findComment&comment=206855
  23. Yes, you're right that the brass housing would radiate heat, just in a slightly poorer way than the adjacent aluminium fins. However, it would still be at cylinder head temperature all the time. I think that the plastic housing would be cheaper than brass. My original plastic housing didn't have any heat conductive paste in it either, but after I broke it, I made sure that the replacement housing had some. I think that a temperature sensor should be thermally coupled to the part that you want to measure. If the engine does not run well like that, then there is an opportunity to tune the engine so it does run well. Having an air gap seems to add the chance of ambient air (temp and speed) corrupting the sensor output. I can't see how the brass retains heat. It is thermally coupled to the cylinder head, so is always within a fraction of a degree of the same temp as the head. If you are meaning the sensor is slow to respond to cylinder head temp changes due to the internal air gap, then I agree. I added thermal paste to remove that possibility on my bike, thinking that Luigi was being economical with the thermal paste, just like the lack of lubrication in the steering head bearings. I am really happy with how my bike starts and runs, with good relays (credit Docc), great electrical function & grounds (credit KiwiRoy), awesome engine performance (credit Meinolf), and nice shifting (credit Chuck, Scud & Lucky Phil).
  24. I’m trying to decide if spending $500 for a new ECM is worth it. The other option is the AMM-P1 ignition and carburetors. At least with carbs you can pull all the F.I. stuff out, lose the weight and complexity and be able to reliably start and ride even with a dead battery. I mentioned in another post that if you went that route and utilized a M-Unit, you would eliminate about 80% or more of all the Luigi grade wiring on the bike. Plus no more relays/fuses/sensors going bad. hmmm....
  25. If one (by mistake) remove the positive cable from the battery before the negative - it is very easy to touch the ECU with the wrench. Thereby the ground wire from the ECU (directly, but hidden to the negative battery pole) will "be burned" and since the original ground wire is put together with a lot of other cables in a cable loom - all will be partly damaged. The solution is easy. Disconnect the original ground wire from the ECU (which leads to the negative pole on the battery) - and replace it with a separate wire "in the open". So if someone later tries to remove the positive cables from the battery -and touching the ECU, without first the negative - the new open wire will get burned alone - and all others will be safe. Rolf
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