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  1. Today
  2. Yup........... we are. Congrats on the acquisition. Ciao
  3. $2200 shipping ? Yeow !
  4. It works for any MG . You just do not want to leave any fasteners in the pan when trying to loosen / remove it .
  5. I believe they changed to the wider tail piece in 1997. Paul B
  6. Very mysterious. Could it be a custom-made one-off?
  7. Thanks for the detailed difference between the early and later V11 forks. What are "DU style coated bushes?"
  8. Yesterday
  9. Cool. Stand by for a dedicated thread on your LeMans. Let me know if you want a different title . . . https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/24777-2003-lemans-come-back/
  10. thank you very much, I'm getting past the financial hit and taking it as a steep learning curve about buying bikes online. in reality I am very excited about this bike. I have rescued numerous sport bikes, so the condition doesn't scare me. what really impresses me about guzzi ownership is the owners. So far the people I have met are very passionate about their bikes. I don't think there is any other brand with so many one owner bikes. Fortunately for me i have two fantastic guzzi dealers within a few hundred miles of me. i will post up more pictures and details when i get the bike home. thanks!!
  11. Good suggestions there. An electric heat gun can slowly heat the pan to 100-120°C without causing any damage. Remember that it gets to that temperature normally on a hot day in slow traffic. An infrared thermometer lets you check. It will take a while,as the castings are very thermally conductive, so you will be heating the crank case too. The heat softens most sealants and glues. Then gradual force from wood or plastic wedges can progressively open gaps for more wedges. BTW, thanks @docc for keeping this forum from going toxic. The world needs good moderators.
  12. This season has certainly been unpredictable...attendance does seem to be down this year due to Rossi's retirement...certainly noticed that also at COTA. Rain or shine tomorrow? That may determine whether the rookies stay up front or get pushed back...either way, another interesting race coming up.
  13. PA- I never change filters for every change. I usually change the oil at 3k intervals and at 9k I do the full service of fluids, filter and valve adjustment. I'm riding it for a while but I expect to shop to fix their problem. Same for the Sport too. If they were simple access filters, I'd change it at every oil change.
  14. Well, with all that in the background, I'd ride it through the summer and worry over it when season is over. There's a strong argument that changing oil filters isn't necessary with every oil change; theoretically, if your engine never creates a piece of debris bigger than the holes in the filter, the filter does no thing atall anyway. Particularly since gravity doesn't make the filter a collection point, I would just button it up and enjoy it.
  15. So am I. The bolts were all off, I couldn't see any sealant from the sides but it feels like it's welded on.
  16. I couldn't see any sealant when I was trying to remove the pan. Only the paper gasket. I'm not the one that's going to try again. But advice is appreciated.
  17. It's a square-pan engine, right? Not wide sump? If so there are 4 hex bolts in the bottom, 3 in front & rear, 4 on each side. Even with Permatex hard gasket sealer, it shouldn't be so tight- even if so it should tear the gasket in half. Still confused.
  18. The very first time I dropped the sump on my new to me CalVin, I had a h*ll of a time. It had been sealed so heavily with orange RTV? when I finally got it off, at first I thought it was some type of silicon gasket. Then I connected the dots and realized it was the cleaning job from hell. lol Even with gentle taps with a plastic/rubber mallet, I know how fragile those thin cooling fins are, btdt, so I'd try other means to apply pressure. Is it possible to fashion and jam a big wood wedge in to place downward force on top of the drain plug at the back? Or put a socket on it and give it a few good wacks back and forth, forwards etc. If you had a slide hammer, with a hooked tip onto a socket or perhaps a big loop of heavy fishing line over the drain plug putting a downward/sideways force might break the seal. If it's not a painted sump and plain metal, a gentle torch or heat gun to soften things up might help. Can you tell the color of the sealant used to get an idea of the temp required to loosen it?
  19. Make SURE you have EVERY bolt out of the pan before you try removing the pan . Get under the bike and verify all the bolts/capscrews or whatever you want to call them are out of the pan .
  20. Hm. I did see an old guy carefully drive a utility knife blade into a gasket to start to separate the parts. A new blade and a light touch is worth a try, I suppose.
  21. I don't suppose that heavy fishing line might saw through the gasket? It will be interesting to see what & how it will be done. More worrisome than interesting.
  22. I bought a tailpiece on eBay just to get the pillion cover, and that it was yellow matching my bike. I paid too much for just the pillion, but figured I'd have the spare tail on the shelf. I thought the tailpiece was the accessory flat-sided tail, but now I think it's from a Daytona. Can anyone confirm, and would anyone like it as a spare? I'll just shelf it. As for the pillion cover, I'm going to take it to the local boatbuilders and see if I can get someone to reproduce it in high-quality fiberglass and perhaps fit it a little more closely to reduce the big gaps they apparently all have.
  23. I bought the beautiful billet shifter/brake levers from Harper's not long after I bought the bike. Somewhere along the way I've noticed that there's more play in the pivot bushings of the shifter than I like, so I ordered new bushings. Upon disassembly and inspection, I found that the stock (most likely stock) bolt is 110mm long, and leaves just about 10mm of threads on the bushing side of the inner nutplate/mount. So the threads and bushing on the inside are hammered. I ordered a new Stainless bolt from McMaster 120mm long, which should get the threads out of the bushing, though I'll have to trim the length of the threads once installed. https://www.mcmaster.com/92290A805/ While there, I pulled back the rubbers from the shift linkage and packed them with the open gear/cable grease I use for my driveshaft splines. They were in fine shape anyway.
  24. Today was the day of the rookies.... Marc Marquez will abort his season to get yet a fourth operation as he is now convinced he cannot perform in his current physical condition. I am wondering if he will be able to ever come back to his former self. However what really surprised me, is the lack of spectators at the Grand-Prix. Usually, the Mugello is always full, but this year, it seems to be deserted. Many attributes the lack of interest with the departure of Valentino Rossi.
  25. Does anyone know what *kind* of sealer he used? I'm not sure even that matters. If you've made certain there's nothing mechanical holding it, the only thing left is the mallet. If there's a clean protruding edge somewhere you can get at with a piece of aluminum flat stock you can attack a corner or side that way without digging too much of the pan material off. As a last resort, and I hate even to suggest it, you might take a cylinder and piston off and see if you can get a piece of hardwood dowel down through the crank and oil stuff to strike it inside the pan. Not a happy thought, nor a guarantee of success. A long time ago, working at a bicycle shop, I was threatening a new carbon fiber swingarm while fishing through a lost cable. The boss said, "You've broken more expensive stuff than this, haven't you?" I laughed, because he was right.
  26. Here’s my V11. One-off exhaust and exhaust hangers. Aqua dipped hugger. Racing ECU. Absolutely gorgeous! Had to paste a link because otherwise the pic had to be too grainy. https://1drv.ms/u/s!AmC04kaAl5HQlNM9IFliCk9pyFt14A?e=BRZ3Vn
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