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  1. Today
  2. Sorry John, I completely forgot about the oil cooler and have been tied up with a heap of other stuff. Mea Culpa. I'll try to get if off today.
  3. Yesterday
  4. Nice images Tom, almost feels like I was there. Ciao
  5. Excellent work John, but just 1 amendment for clarity so people using this as a resource in the future dont get confused. You have the plunger the wrong way around. The protruding nose on the plunger engages with the spring and the cylindrical body of the plunger slides into the outer body. Ciao
  6. Having the same Mosfet regulator experience with my 2 V11. Only around 10000m so far, but 14.73 v idling, and the 30amp fuse has nothing much to do. Slipped in a 15amp fuse , just to observe, still there Cheers tom
  7. 15,726 miles. I asked about it yesterday and he still has it. I don't need another V11 lol...
  8. Listed 11 weeks ago. "Low miles" is anything less than 118,000?
  9. Get a Shindengen Mosfet from here and you'll never have to worry about a regulator again. Have them on the Ducati's. http://www.roadstercycle.com/
  10. Here's a red frame for sale in Virginia Beach: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/702278560627125
  11. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/702278560627125
  12. Weegie

    WTB - Centauro

    One more thing I put rather clumsily was in the tale of the 28psi idle pressure and the statement "50psi and even that's is really too low" when referring to cold idle presssure. 10psi at idle is more than enough, what I was trying to get across was on cold oil idle the relief valve is partially lifting/leaking and the setpoint that should be on the valve is 70psi, however they all lift early and idle at 50psi. Revving the engine will raise the pressure, choking the valve. I reckon It rises to a bit over 60psi at 3k rpm but I don't know if the pressure rises any higher than that. From wha
  13. Damm I meant to say on the video if anybody is contemplating this as a mod, what I didn't realize at the time was that there was 3 mm spacer jammed into the top of the valve as a shim. Like the dope I am I completely missed it and only found out about it later when messing with the valve again So the valve had the 1mm crush washer installed on the outside at the top of the valve which reduces the spring tension and a 3mm shim on the inside of the top bolt which increases the spring tension. If installing without the crush washer (which IMHO isn't necessary) I'd start with a 2mm washer/spa
  14. Yes John that's my position, use the gauge to set the system up and then remove it. The switch should be a "hard time" replaceable item not a soft time. Its a $15 switch and shouldn't be expected to last 20+ years. Just like a lot of aircraft components are replaced at a specific hours I think there is an argument for the same for the LOP switch. Ciao
  15. Weegie

    WTB - Centauro

    Perhaps you're correct Phil, it's a personal thing and specific to these engines. It's a backup to the rather unreliable pressure switch, known to fail. I rarely monitor the gauge on a ride, its just something I glance at from time to time, or if something else occurs (like the pressure light illuminating) to provide me with a little more information. Maybe my poor tech skills, but over the years I've found the gauge useful from time to time. A compromise would be to install a temporary hook up to monitor pressure for the shakedown runs and then remove it. Vive La Difference
  16. Well I dont agree with running an oil pressure gauge. John and I have done plenty of research on this now and in my view we have a workable outcome. With the Griso spring you get around 75psi hot oil pressure maximum and idle pressure of around what,32psi hot on 15W-50 oil. The hot maximum is plenty now and the hot idle pressure also has plenty of head room as well ( considering 10 psi at idle is actually all you need). We now have a greatly uprated pump, driven by steel gears which should allay any reliability issues. So John has done a brilliant job with this with a great outcome with plenty
  17. Kremmen

    WTB - Centauro

    Yes of course it was, thanks Weegie. I was watching your new vid last night. Good stuff. The range of variation your gauge shows should give anyone pause - a lower flow rate plus no idea what's going on in a motor known for expensive fragility, no thanks, Caruso + gauge it is. Coming into 4Vs at this stage it'd be daft not to act on the info that's available. So ta! PS when I got my Sport i it was a dealer demo with a discount as they were going out of business. They had an RS too and I nearly jumped for that instead. If I had I'd have had bigger bills for sure; I'd have taken things for
  18. I dont doubt it and worth bearing in mind but .3 mm is about the variation in base gasket thicknesses so for all intents and purposes they can be considered the same. Ciao
  19. This is from the "1100" to the V11?
  20. The newer cylinders are different, has 0.3 mm less hight for more compression ratio (9.2 old / 9.5 new).
  21. The heads are different on the EV Calis. Smaller valves and a different oil feed line from memory. I have one in the workshop. The cali cams are different and there is a slight variation in the rocker arms from earlier to later engines. I fitted later rocker arms on my engine which if I recall had a slightly larger end and more thread for the adjusters. Cranks are different depending on what alternator you run and the cranks have a different balance factor depending on what engine and rod piston combo. The rods do vary between the models but I'm not sure of the exact details. Ciao
  22. I am guilty of forgetting that the 1999-2001 Sport and the V11 LeMans variants are not the only "V11" and certainly not the only 1064 Big Blocks. Other than things like the carbs vs. FI, sump/spacer, exhaust flanges, and valve covers, aren't the V11 Sport motors the same as the Sport 1100/ 1100 Sport-i (pistons, rods, heads, valves and cam, etc.)? And, even more, are there differences from the V11 "EV"/ California motors?
  23. Last week
  24. Nice work John. Personally I can't imagine a better outcome oil pressure wise. Hot max pressure will be around 75psi, cold around 82 and hot idle around 30 psi. Ciao
  25. Be still my beating heart.. that thing sounds awesome. Man, I love those engines.
  26. Weegie

    WTB - Centauro

    That was probably me Kremmen, I've got a HiCam engine that was/is overheating. Anyway I posted about the travails on this thread https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21884-hicam-oil-pressure-gross-stupidity-and-why-you-should-always-listen-to-chuck/ It may have been there as I made that statement on that thread Due to all the research I did, while basically going down the wrong road, I was frequently in correspondence with Joe Caruso and that was where the information came from If the gear pump output is linear with RPM and gear rotor length similarily linear t
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