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  2. Lucky Phil

    My Scura Build.

    No Stainless, but I went with TI. Ciao
  3. Today
  4. gstallons

    My Scura Build.

    Where did you purchase the cap assy. ?
  5. Autosol, an old t-shirt and a some patience is my 5 cents. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  6. dammag


  7. I have what you want. My email is john@countdown.co.uk and I live in the UK. Had a kit new in 2016 I think and removed it this year as my 2004 Ballabio is up for sale here in UK. Contact me and let’s see how we can sort this out for you. Best regards John (Nixon)
  8. I dropped off one head and got a call the next day from the machine shop saying the valves are way too worn to work with the guides... There was a noticeable step on the valve stem. So at this point I figured I better do both heads. Checked the usual suspects for valves, everybody had to wait for a long slow boat for Italy. I remembered that Ferracci was blowing out there inventory since they closed. Sure enough they still carry some valves and are doing an online business still. After pulling the right cylinder (plug came free with little drama) the cylinder tried to come with the head. So I know I have to atleast do the right side base gasket. This thing is stuck to the case like you wouldn’t believe. Arduous task to remove this thing. All the while trying to keep garbage from falling into the case.... Maybe I should drop the sump? Then there is the Roper plate...
  9. So, here's a thing.... The exhaust collars don't particularly want to easily locate on the new studs, the old studs are a little bent, and rusted away to practically 6mm round on the non threaded part. Now, the old ones came out as bolts because of the rust, so I never had to get the collar off over the bolts, should it slide freely on/off? The threads on the head are clean and true, so I don't know if that mean my collars are warped or something? Given that my new studs are a little shorter, I would rule out the angle between the studs becoming more obtuse as they get further out. Update: Yes, they were bent... Quick introduction to Terry the 10 Tonne Press.... And we're on. So, how can I clean these things up, are they stainless? They certainly aren't magnetic!
  10. Just proves i’m Lazy.... found the motoelectric site in about 12 seconds by just searching. Anyway, here’s their site. I will say I’ve been happy with their product when I’ve used them for older (uh, middle aged?) Ducati’s, like on the st4 and the 904 (Gran Canyon), but don’t know if it would be money well spent on the v11: https://motolectric.com/makes/moto_guzzi.html from the sounds of some of the issues, it MIGHT be of some value on the ground side of things, though most of the benefit usually comes from just having good clean connections. But still, I love my toys, and there’s no downside mechanically to doing this minor mod, and a truly possible benefit, so i’ll Likely do it. i will say that I picked up my 2nd lemans last night (love it, but more on that elsewhere/thread), and it does not have the hicap, and now that I think of it this “new” lemans without the hicap cranks slower than my other lemans which does have the hicap. (So also note that I’ve just admitted my own laziness again, and answered my own question.... I forgot that Goldie (1st ‘02 lemans I have at home) has the hicap kit, as I recommended it to my friend some yrs ago, he had installed it, and later I bought the bike from him. Duh.) so, i’ll Likely do the hicap kit this winter, and clean up all the connections, and do your described 30amp fuse upgrade. So endeth my circular thinking/answering my own questions extravaganza... guess my lousy memory is just getting worse, but it still works when u let it warm up! 😎
  11. Well, good question docc, in regard to the detail, as i’m Not actually sure if it’s a brand or just a descriptor, but I assume it’s a brand, as it’s always the same look to the kits I’ve purchased for various bikes. But now I’m being lazy.... i’ll Do the quick research and circle back, since no one is saying “oh ya, we’ve all got those...” in general, it’s just a larger gauge, higher quality cable/wire set for the primary cables for battery and starter. Been very happy with them in the past on other bikes. Made an obvious difference on my 99 ST4, where (Luigi’s) lousy grounding caused issues of various sorts despite clean, solid looking factory cables. I’ve used them on other bikes without any obviously noted improvement.
  12. Mikko

    My Scura Build.

    Converted to Americano, it's the same price not including sales tax ( in my State it's 6% ) They finally got around to forcing internet shops to charge it. Back in the "not to distant day", I was enjoying quite a discount buying parts. Sometimes you still can, used parts on eBay for example. I originally bought an Oberon Fuel cap and it was nothing like this Rizoma. I sent it back post- haste. Did your cap come with those cheap fasteners also?
  13. Many aircraft engines use brass nuts on the exhaust. They won't rust to the stud and become a bolt. Spring washers work fine until they don't. They'll eventually break and leave a loose fastener.
  14. Here they are. Identical to the ones that Pete is referring to. Rolf
  15. Phil (and Pete) Even better than a loan. I have still some of my tools for sale. Special pipe for the peg nut 93601020 Special pipe for the peg nut 04055100 And also the special pipe for the front peg nut 93601026 Would you like to have an offer including shipping? Send me a PM. Rolf
  16. You'd love owning a Yamaha XS650 then.... I think Yamaha would claim the spring washers are "insurance".
  17. Not at all, I've personally never used a torque wrench on exhaust studs or nuts for that matter in 50 years. As a matter of fact I dont use a torque wrench all that often. Just for critical fasteners and groups of fasteners that need to be tensioned evenly. The reality is its not a very accurate way to tension a bolt its just that its better than free hand for the overwhelming majority of people. Get rid of the spring washer though, they are an embarrassment. Whenever I see spring washers i think "someone got the engineering wrong then".Buy a couple of Nord-Lock washers. Ciao
  18. With brass nuts, I'm ashamed to say I just go with "tight.. but not too tight...." I have put spring washers in there for a bit of tension before.
  19. Ok Pete thanks. Did you see a member here recently had his gearbox shifter sleeves ( or movable hose as the manual calls them)replace during a gearbox rebuild and the rebuilder fitted sleeves that ended up too wide and the box wouldn't shift. Dont know why the sleeves ended uo too wide but it seemed one of the possibilities was that they were incorrectly manufactured. Just something to look for if you need new shifter/drive sleeves. Ciao
  20. Better than that I've got Rolf's super-marvey deep sockets which I'm certain are about a zillion times better than the 'machined from cheese and then subjected to a softening technique to make them really useless' factory ones! Of course you can borrow them but we've got that gearbox from the Rosso Mandello coming in this week and we'll need them to pull that POS to bits. Nag me next week. Once we have it apart we'll almost certainly need to order parts to replace whatever it is that's dying in there so while they are coming by Trireme from Europe I can get the sockets to you and hopefully you can use them and get them back before our bits arrive! pete
  21. No worries Pete. I just measured my old style RAM plate thats fitted to the Daytona engine that's finished on the bench. It has the fast wearing plate and I measured it at 5.75mm thick. Bear in mind that I couldn't get the calipers in there as its all assembled so I used the Plasticine impression technique and measured it with the digital calipers. I have a pretty high level of confidence in the measurement. You wouldnt happen to have the two special tab sockets that fit the internal ring nuts on the 6 speed box shafts that I could borrow do you? p/n's 01 91 38 30 and 01 91 37 30. 28 and 24mm I believe. Ciao
  22. That would be appreciated. I know the sintered plates wear quickly. I was considering seeing if I could get the plate re-lined with an organic material
  23. Nice find. The torque should be the same as any grade 8 or 9 steel bolt as the torque is determined by the bolt/stud material not the nut material. You need to stretch the stud to maintain the tension so if the brass nut cant cut it then you need to go to steel or Titanium. I'm sure the brass nut will take the torque though esp if you opt for the extra long ones to give greater threaded surface area as thats the idea. Personally I'd go with a Titanium nut and anti sieze. Ciao
  24. Lucky Phil

    My Scura Build.

    This is whats fitted to my bike except in "natural" aluminium. Its very nicely made and at the price is unbeatable value. Rizoma stuff is very nice but at around $300au is also very overpriced for the comparable quality. Good to know though there are other fitment options apart from the Aprilia out there. Ciao
  25. Hey Scud

         Could you send me an email at groundhog105@gmail.com.   I have something I want to talk to you about 



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