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  1. Today
  2. The way to drill out the old hole straight is to use a bush with the same size ID as the drill and hold it against the surface and run the drill through that. Obviously the bigger the bush OD the better but this provides you with a drilling guide perpendicular to the mounting face to use. Ciao
  3. When the gearbox is in neutral, the switch plunger goes into a shallow dish in the lower cam wheel. I'd check that you don't have too thin a seal under the switch. If so, the plunger can't extend enough to ground the circuit. When in neutral, try unwinding the switch one flat at a time, and if the light comes on, then you need a thicker seal washer. Of course then you need to be sure that the light goes out when in all 6 gears.
  4. Pretty sure the switch is "about" the same level as the gearoil, but not below. Pretty sure you can remove the switch without much oil loss and work its actuator ball in and out with some solvent to make sure it is free. Connect the wire, ground the case of the switch and press the ball. Light comes on = switch okay. The issue certainly may indicate that the selector plates did not go back together quite right . . .
  5. Yep, goes into neutral when I ground the wire. Must be the switch then. Thanks for the tip, Docc. Any tricks to getting it unstuck before I start taking things apart? And is it above or below the oil level? (in regards to whether or not I have to drain the gearbox again to remove and inspect the switch.)
  6. Yesterday
  7. Take the wire off the switch and ground it. If the Neutral Light comes on, the fault is in the switch (could be just "stuck"). If you ground the wire and the light does not come on, the fault is in the wiring (may have gotten pinched "open" under the side cover on reassembly).
  8. Well, shoot. I got everything back together and now the neutral switch isn't working. Neutral light won't come on, bike won't start unless the kickstand is up. I tried some deoxit on the connections, still no luck. Could I have messed something up on reassembly? Any easy ways to check the switch without tearing everything apart again?
  9. whynot

    Mille GT?

    Is the Mille GT a "good" bike? Strong points? Weak points? There's one for sale near me at $2800 USD -- seems reasonable to me. What to look for? Parts availability? (I don't care for pod air filters, but otherwise it looks complete from what I can see so far.) Thanks, any pointers and comments appreciated, Kurt =========================================================================================================== "1990 Moto Guzzi Mille GT · Driven 43,000 miles Selling a Moto Guzzi Mille in very nice shape. Gone through by a local Guzzi mechanic last year. New part
  10. Was wondering if anyone might have a 2008 M/G 1200 Sport factory owners manual that they would part with? Pm me or other. Thx in advance.
  11. I believe it was the Flux Capacitor.
  12. Last week
  13. It is perfect looking . The last bid is around $2350 ?
  14. I searched on Google for 'Guzzi leather key' and found many options to choose from.....
  15. Brian , are you gonna leave us hangin' ? You don't have a blown up engine until you know you have a blown up engine .
  16. Well , I am glad I looked before I gave my worthless opinion . They do produce a contactless Hall effect sensor that can be used in place of a wiper/pot set-up . If you can get it in the correct range and configuration , your problems are over !
  17. Nope.... I was hoping to locate the all black leather oval or the natural leather oval all embossed with ( Moto Guzzi ) one side. Anyone? Ciao
  18. I believe so................................
  19. I thought someone talked about using a Hall sensor? Chuck maybe ? and to clarify my earlier statement. In the past, many many miles traveled for work or places far from home. During those "events" I was not exactly traveling in the most legal fashion. Now days I don't travel for work on the bike so I have been "taking it easy" which puts me right in the 2.8 to 3 k range of the hiccups.
  20. Is that the long chain to your wallet in your Levi's back pocket.
  21. 'dis it? https://www.ebay.com/itm/274586761566?ul_noapp=true
  22. Right? I suppose that if I should just replace it every other time-up it would be no big deal. I would rather a more durable solution. Didn’t someone bring up using a non-contact type of TPS device (instead of a common potentiometer that physically wipes a contact)? Is that an option for us to pursue?
  23. It's crazy that a cheap plastic part can cause to much trouble.
  24. Roger that on both counts: Andy's hiccup was not from the TPS. And, the later un-slotted Harley TPS won't work on our V11. Seems H-D would still be sourcing the slotted version that was fitted to their earlier bikes? Same for the Ducati that used the earlier, slotted TPS? I'll try rechecking my TPS. In the past, I have had best results testing resistance across the potentiometer watching for jumps, drops, or opens as I slowly open and close the TPS. I also may be having trouble setting the 157mV baseline due to throttle body wear and "closed throttle plate" becoming a moving target.
  25. You still have the note I wrote you for last year? "Doctor's Orders"
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