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  2. This was a project bike by one of the forum members. I purchased it and have thoroughly enjoyed it to the tune of adding 7K+ miles. Great fun! Now, time to move on so I'm offering this one for sale. Please reach me with any questions - 951.894.9094. Here is a link to the local Craigslist ad: https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/mcy/d/murrieta-2001-moto-guzzi-v11-sport/6892875711.html Thank you, Kevin
  3. I really like the profile sweep of these mufflers but not the proportion. For mine they need to be 100 mm shorter and a little larger in overall diameter, maybe 20mm at the end and keep the same taper proportion. Oh and brushed Stainless or Titanium finish. Ciao
  4. You need to fit one bearing docc then use a pair of vernier calipers and measure from the fitted bearing inner race face to the seat of the opposite side. A spacer equal to or few thou or even more longer than this measurement is ok but shorter is a no,no as it will pre load the bearing too much when you torque up the axle. I found my spacer too short and glued some shims onto it (only to hold them in place when the axle was removed). You are aiming for a spacer that is the exact dimension between the bearing inner faces when both bearings are seated up against the bearing bores outer race shoulders. A fractionally longer spacer is acceptable but any dimension shorter is not. This is the #1 reason for short wheel bearing life along with using high pressure washers foolishly. Ciao
  5. Ha, yep: 7mm turns my ECU fasteners and 9/32" "feels about the same" . . . It is turning wrenches around the ECU and positive battery terminal that can throw VERY undesirable sparks.
  6. Yesterday
  7. SKF 6204 2RSJEM (Made in Argentina) KOYO 6204 2RSC3GXM (Made in Romania) After all this time/ miles, I keep destroying my rear wheel bearings. WTF? I've crushed my bearing spacer? It is definitely loose between the bearing inner races and not "captured" once the bearing outer races are seated . . .
  8. Hmmm . 7mm exists . Try it. 9/32" in fraction.
  9. Hmmm. what brand n part #s did you find / come up with ?
  10. I have managed to source some high quality bearings, but keep suffering bearing failures like never before. Perhaps it is my installation technique. Perhaps my short spacer is finally telling on me. Seems my pinion bearing is also suspect . . .
  11. this one popped up in the same search... maybe sumthin here. at least dlaing has some p/n's for bearings
  12. milar sent me this slightly larger image. we're still working on hosting and posting the hi-res scan . . .
  13. Wow, so great, footgoose. Thanks! I am really struggling with my rearwheel bearings thinking it is something I am doing wrong. Perhaps it is that "silly millimeter?"
  14. What is the correct bearing spacer length for the early Sport 4.5 inch rim? (I found mine to be 112mm, but cannot be certain it is correct . . . )
  15. Yeah, I noticed the inner tube idea in an earlier post, but it looked like I had enough free space to not need it, perhaps I'll reconsider. As an alternative, I went to unfasten the ECU ground wire and reattach it to the back corner of the aluminum box to avoid the short possibility entirely. However, an 8mm wrench was too big and a 6mm wrench too small. Did those uniquely artistic Italians really employ a 7mm bolt head??? The mind boggles.
  16. The green Sport is truly gorgeous. I wonder if a half fairing version 'in the flesh' might be too much of a good thing. Are there any other photos of this design? The Champagne '02 would be the first LM in (almost) one color. I would love to hear their thoughts at the time on decisions made for colors. I have no problem envisioning an all silver, red frame LM. Possibly the first 2 model years having no red or yellow choice, as well as no fairing, was an attempt at distinction from the earlier Sport I line.. ? The green Sport seems to say "this is still a traditional Guzzi" to those, at the time, who may have considered the new design too radical. The Telaio Rosso homage was enough, I think, to leave the fairing off. Also... at the time... would green have been the "flagship" color with black and silver as alternatives? Any pricing variation?
  17. Actually, this raises a good question: were you able to reproduce the problem off the road? If you put the bike on a rear stand, pump the rear brake a few times and release, does it bind, or can you spin the wheel? If it only happens while riding, it could very well be something else. Sounds like you are on the right track though, replacing seals etc., and you found some corrosion which certainly wasn't helping...
  18. I must agree. I've long kept a flash of innertube over that corner of the ECU next to the positive side of the battery. Otherwise, treat all those connections with DeOxit and it looks like you've made a great improvement!
  19. The only issue I see is that one lead is awfully close to the ECU and/or ECU ground wire. Yeah, I know.. it's insulated, but I'd get it away from there just the same.
  20. On a rear stand , pump the brakes about 4 Xs . The wheel will not turn . Break the bleeder screw and see if the wheel spins easier . If it spins easier , the problem is ahead of the caliper . Brake hose , master cylinder or adjustments . If there is no difference , the problem is in the caliper .
  21. Thanks for that Pete.
  22. That is so terrific, Mike! Thank you so much for posting this! I tried to find the images no long ago to repair another thread ans could not find them on the vast web. (Let us see if we can post the hi-res images in Fileshare. I'm not sure the logistics of that, but will pm you since the image size may require hosting.)
  23. 1. All I have done to the bike since I’ve had it is fit some Mistral pipes and fit a new led rear light and indicators. 2. It’s happened twice now in the last few weeks. 3. I’m pretty sure I’ve mentioned everything. Cheers.
  24. Short answer is get the 1100 unless you have proof it was rollerized?
  25. Griso 1100 was launched in 2005 but deliveries only really started in 2006. The model was produced for two years really, 2006 and '07 a few were sold in 2008 but were simply plated as that year. The 8V commenced production in 2007 but once again deliveries only started in the next calendar year. Early 8V's were plagued by several problems besides the flat tappet issues. The rear main bearing flange was prone to leaking and the gasket between the sump spacer and the block was prone to blowing out and lowering oil pressure leading to horrible noises but rarely failures. The big issue though was obviously the flat tappet fiasco. Early engines had chilled cast iron tappets. These were quickly found to be failure prone, more so in some markets than others, and there was a recall for these motors to replace the chilled cast iron tappets with forged steel ones with a DLC, (Diamond like Carbon.) coating on the sliding face. Unfortunately these too proved to be unreliable and although there was at least on further update to the manufacture the system continued to fail. Sometimes they take longer on one engine than another but they will ALL fail, no ifs or buts. Be aware that if you are thinking of buying a pre-'13 8V or any 1200 Sport 8V even if you check with a dealer or Piaggio and are told that there are no outstanding recalls on the bike you are looking at it will not mean that the bike has been rollerised as there was never a 'Recall' for rollerisation. In 2012/13 the Piaggio 'Service MotoGuzzi' portal announced a 'Technical Update' which stated that in the event of failure, providing the bike had a full service history and entirely at Piaggio's discretion they would provide a kit for rollerisation but the owner would have to pay for the install. Yes, it sucks, but that's the way it is. The reality is that these bikes are now seven years old at the youngest. Few have a full history and Piaggio just wants to wash its hands of the situation. A free kit is unlikely unless you have a dealer willing to go into bat for you. While rollerisation usually fixes the issue on rare occasions the bottom end will fail after rollerisation due to bearing contamination by DLC debris. As I say, rare, but of the couple of hundred rollerisations we've done we have subsequently lost about five motors, one of which was mine. The answer is to simply purchase a post '12 model as the swap over from flat to roller tappets on all models except the 1200 Sport was in the first half of MY 2012. While there are bargains to be had in buying a flat tappet machine there will always be an element of risk. I've seen engines with sub-10,000km that have completely trashed top ends. I've also seen bikes in their 30's that are only showing the early stages of wear. I'm pretty sure I know why they fail now and it depends on two things, climate and use. The other annoying thing is that until the DLC has all gone and the parent metal of the tappet starts to erode there will likely be no signs anything is wrong. No odd noises or running problems so to the unfamiliar the bike may appear fine. As a general rule if you choose to buy a flattie the lower the mileage on the bike the better! Checking to see if a bike has been rollerised is very easy. Just take off a rocker cover and look, (There are plenty of pics on the web of what to look for.). If you also want the shop to pull a cambox to inspect the flat tappets? On any model other than a Norge you can pull the left hand cambox in fifteen minutes. If they want to charge you a stupid sum, (One poor sod I know was charged $2,000US for this 'Service' to be told his tappets were fine. They weren't!) tell them to go get a big black dog up themselves! There are four different rollerisation kits available. They vary greatly in price. That info, and the cheapest way to rollerise, is also widely available on the net. I for one have covered it pretty comprehensively, it's not worth repeating here. If your Google Fu is so bad you can't find it it's probably best you don't look for a flattie! The other issues associated with all the W5AM Guzzis are them having been 'tuned' by idiots who don't know what they are doing, (There is a thread on this board covering what to do and not to do to the throttlebodies. (That's on a 2V Sport but the principles are the same for an 8V) The other thing is the dreaded grease phobia of Mandello workers. The swingarm bearings and shock linkage are rarely, if ever, packed properly with grease and this should be addressed asap as replacing the swingarm bearings is a right, royal PITA and the shock linkage costs a couple of hundred bucks complete but is within a few dollars of buying the bearings, seals, pins etc. so it isn't worth rebuilding a rooted one. The long and the short of it is that a well set up and correctly mapped 8V is a magnificent thing. This is not to take anything away from the 1200's, 1100's or 850's with the old 2V motor but in terms of performance there is simply no comparison. In the same way that diehards here love their V11's I am a CARC bike tragic and 8V evangelist! The loss of this platform I consider an enormous step backwards for Guzzi but judging by the reaction to the V85 I'm in a minority on that score. No skin off my nose but it's a shame that the most advanced engine they built has been shitcanned in favour of an other 2 valve, pushrod, lawnmower engine. Pete
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