Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. I don't know about all of the V11's, but I know the wife's '00 V11 has cartridge forks. It is not a completely sealed cartridge, it has bleed holes that allow the oil to bypass the piston that moves up and down inside the cartridge. But technically it is a cartridge fork. As mentioned before, if you block off one of the bleed holes on the cartridge body and force more oil to go through the piston valving you can get better control over the suspension movement. The linkage for the rear drive box is supposed to separate the torque of the rear gears and it's rotational effect from the suspension movement. So getting hard on the gas doesn't make the rear suspension try to extend. But it doesn't mean the rear suspension works perfectly. The shock can still have issues, and the massive weight of the rear drive box hanging on the end of the swing arm also adds it issues. A normal chain drive set up has much less weight on the far end of the swing arm, making life for other shocks much easier. It has been a very long time since I had a set of V11 forks open. But I find that if you take it apart it is easy to see how it works. From there you can figure out how to make them better. That is what I did many years ago. Setting sag should always be step one in setting up suspension. Make sure your race sag (my term for the sag with the rider on board) is right. Then check the free sag (my term for how much the bike sags under its own weight without the rider on board) is where it should be. Usually free sag should be around 10 - 15 percent of total travel when race sag is set to 30 - 40 percent of total travel. If free sag is too much that means your springs are too stiff, where as too little free sag means your springs are too soft.
  3. I have not tried the K&N filter, but being too tall would be my main concern. There are so many good quality filters out there I don't know why you would pick K&N. FYI, I have had issues with K&N oil filters rusting away, even to the point that the filter housing leaked. The rust was centered around the fake nut that is welded to the end of the housing. I reported the issue to K&N, including pictures. They sent me a new filter to replace the bad filter (nice of them). But my main concern was the issue with the filter design. While I have no issues with the company as a whole, I am not likely to use their oil filters again. But to be fair, since the V11 oil filter lives inside the sump and would be covered in oil both inside and out it is likely that it isn't going to have rust issues when used on a V11. But the big question would be whether or not the filter fits under the manhole cover on the bottom of the sump. I tend to use either NAPA Gold or WIX filters.They are fine for a V11. Other brands out there are also fine.
  4. Today
  5. Great to hear this and welcome to the forum, Randy! We will all be waiting to hear how you like it! Congrats on a great buy.
  6. Can’t find mentions of why a K&N filter won’t work, with its built in hex head at the bottom for easier removal. There’s mention here and there in the endless oil threads of the kn 163 (common on a nUmber of bikes), the 1002, and 171b, but no clear indication of whether they’ll work. Too tall with that hex head to fit with clearance?
  7. Post pics. I'm especially interested in the "custom modifications" the PO did.
  8. My attention was drawn in that image to the wall art of "Prince" from the movie Purple Rain. Anyone that thought he was stylish or cool had their bubble burst when he appeared riding that atrocious abomination of a motorcycle. All the cool and style instantly evaporated, like gasoline spilled on a hot engine and he is revealed for what he was, a scrawny, weird little dude in high heals. If you want to know how cool someone really is ask them what sort of motorcycle they own or aspire to own. PS great song writer though. Ciao
  9. https://photos.app.goo.gl/mwgwn5TPZ7a8QfXu5
  10. value is established at the point of sale, so....
  11. I am lol. Picking it up later this week.
  12. My father, and his brothers, were carpenters by trade. They made their livings other ways, but their trade was always evident. Holding and handling their tools, now, is a special feeling. I remember my dear friend, "Goofman," saying, "To know a tool, and to use it well, in the service of others, perhaps that is enough." That we can share our efforts and interests, in these times, is extraordinary. Dear thanks to Jaap for these forums and LuckyPhil for this awesome thread!
  13. Yesterday
  14. From the interwebz: Exhaust manifold temperatures vary for different vehicles and operating conditions Manifolds and/or exhaust pipes on some vehicles can reach 1200 degrees F. It is rare to find temperatures this high in normal operation. The hottest locations tend to be those for which there is some constriction or impingement of exhaust gas. For example, a bend in an exhaust manifold tube immediately outside the cylinder will have a surface upon which the exhaust gas has a greater capacity to transfer heat. Exhaust system temperatures will be reduced at any point of contact with cooler components of large thermal mass, such as the cylinder head.
  15. For your kids to auction off at a pittance? I know I am going to ask for a rotisserie coffin to make the spinning easier.
  16. Not nervous at all. I'm keeping mine
  17. Thanks for asking and suggesting a fix. That reentry-like glow was a one-time VERY brief run in shop after (partial) 6K service. In brief response to your question, I started it, listened to it run (crappily) for possibly 10 seconds, then tried using throttle to raise RPM's. No joy. Max running was c. 30-40 secs, if that. Scared me feceless when I saw the pipes glow like a cherry pie fresh from oven. I did not post details here, but, if interested in more, see https://www.grisoghetto.com/t5042-great-griso-minds-needed-for-a-v7-problem I got the new plug caps and plugs in yesterday and buttoned up one side; hope to finish rest today ... if my spousal supervisor gives me time off from our seemingly endless decluttering project that has us quarantined in our accumulated squalor of decades. In fairness, I am the hoarder, so the mess is mostly mine. Will post how the Stornello turns out. Bill
  18. If no one wants it , I can use it on my Red Frame .
  19. I see the Coppa owners getting nervous.
  20. I didn't want myself to be able saying this, so I left my wife.
  21. All three screws go into the airbox, right? Any contact with the lower rear edge of the tank? There is/was a foam piece almost glued there to prevent.....something. Too bad the covers are already painted. Could open the holes to 8 or 10mm, use rubber grommets and a flanged screw to cover the entire mess. My other experience has been with a Kwacker in which the side panels mount to fuel tank (post), frame (screw) and tail section (2 posts) - all of which have a mind of their own.
  22. Is that at slow idle or fast idle? i noted that my Ballabio did that while on choke and I was gearing up - since then I've dropped it to low idle. Otherwise, single wall pipes and maybe timing is retarded? My Kawi EX500/GPz500s does that at fast idle warming up - but its carbs have enricheners rather than a choke. Had an '85 Thunderbird Turbo and after an uphill run home from work, the exhaust manifold and exhaust side of the turbo would be glowing.
  23. Ticked another couple of boxes today,added gearbox oil and reworked the seat. I found with the tank raised and in a rearward most position dictated by the aft mount slot that the seat unit wouldn't latch down. Turns out I needed to trim 10mm from the front of the seat base so I removed the staples that secure the front of the cover and removed 10mm from the ctr tapering to zero about 50mm from the corner. Re-stapled the cover back into place and were're golden. I also shimmed the seat latch up a few mm so it latches nicely now. It always required a bit of a shove down to latch properly but its quite nice now. Seem to be getting close to the finish line now, refit the tail under tray and rear plate holder and machine up the final tank rear mount spacer and fit the oil pressure gauge for the initial start. I'll wait a little for that and collect my thoughts and go through a check list of double checking stuff. Ciao
  24. Ha, sounds like a wise move docc. I re-checked the spare nylon covers I have on my spare really nice late model airbox and with all the grommets and spacers fitted you cant mount the cover without significant distortion to the cover which is what eventually causes them to crack it appears. One mount hole on each cover is a long way out. Once that is corrected then they fit up with zero load. Might be a project for the future,fibreglass covers with the holes in the right spots. Good to know the carbon ones dont seem to be an issue,although they are very difficult to find. I machined 1 mm off the tops of my new cover screws and they look a bit better now. Ciao
  25. Funny thing, my excellent selling dealer supplied me with replacement side covers under warranty, but made me promise never to install them!
  1. Load more activity
  • Create New...