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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/04/2020 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    Enjoying life, ( global warming, my calender say's june, B parrot's ) Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-A505FN via Tapatalk
  2. 9 points
    Today I finished the new motor transplant and took it for a nice long spin! Fresh oil lines and a sweet new roper plate
  3. 9 points
    Well here it is out and about today. First ride.I started off trying a std V11 map. Strangely my bike has a very early 1.5M ecu and for some reason doesn't present any baro pressure info. Paul Minnaert seems to recall the early version ecus have something different about their baro sensor. He's going to get back to me when he has access to his info.Hopefully this just means for the moment the baro pressure is set to a default. The other odd thing about my ecu is it's loaded with a 2002 LeMans map. I've owned this bike for 10 years so pre Guzzidiag days so how this has gotten in there I dont know. Any thoughts anyone? Maybe this is why the baro info isnt displayed because that function of the early ecu isnt compatible with the later maps. Hopefully Paul can shed some light. I reset the CO trim to Zero from -12 and the bike seemed to idle fine on the V11 map. Starting's a bit ropey though. So out I went for a ride around the block. It didnt run that well to be honest, I mean it got me around the block a few times but you wouldn't go out for a ride like that. It did allow me to check the oil pressure though with the temp oil pressure gauge though with the oil a bit warmer and 60 psi @ 2500 rpm at around 52 deg C oil temp on 15W-40 which will be adequate. I believe that figure will turn out to be the relief valve setting. If I feel the need for more pressure I'll go to a 10W-50 but I'm OK with 60psi max. I came back and decided to load the map Gritman had sent me for his V11/Daytona and see what that was like. Out I went and it was way better, not really great but you could go for a ride at a pinch with this map although truthfully it will need to be a lot better than this. Gritmans bike has pod filters and I'm not sure what crossover so it was never going to be perfect. The gearbox shifted nicely and the bike went well in all other areas so now its just about the tuning. Hopefully I'll be able to get some help with that. Now Then. How it was when I bought it 10 years ago Ciao
  4. 8 points
    Although I agree that the stuff that's going is very serious and should be addressed, I still don't think a bike forum is the right place to discuss this. I've had so much sh*t in the past with political threads, that I've become very wary to allow it over here. That's why I'm locking this thread. From the forum rules you all agreed to when signing up: .... Having fun is good, we like fun. Please keep it positive and polite. We do not censor opinions or ideas on our forums but we do take action against posts and/or topics that could cause unrest in the community beyond a civil and polite disagreement. Political discussions are not allowed. There are plenty political forums on the web . ...
  5. 8 points
    I put a tiny little rear light on the back, to replace the small, but crappy light/bracket arrangement that I was never happy with. This Shin-Yo light is supposed to be fender mounted on the top, but I took a gamble on it fitting/being visible under the V11 rear...
  6. 8 points
    Just wanted to share this with you. And say an extremely big thank you to the Canadian 1st Infantry Division that freed our region. I can't imagine what these boys have experienced. We won't forget. Never. https://www.gelderlander.nl/berg-en-dal/no-ceremony-but-thousands-of-tulips-to-remember-the-fallen-canadian-soldiers-in-groesbeek~abec328c/
  7. 7 points
    I purchased this bike 13 years ago from Ken Johnson at Atlas Cycle in Tulsa, Oklahoma just before Ken retired and sold the business. Ken told me that it had been on display at the shop for many years. The bike hadn't been licensed for the road since 1977. All of the tinware retains its original paint. The frame and other black bits were re-painted, and the rusty hardware was cadmium plated. I tore the bike down, ordered a Gliardoni cylinder set and for the next 12 years the bike was in boxes. Last year I got serious about finishing it. Today I finished the wiring. I installed one of Greg Bender's fabulous wiring harnesses. I also installed his slick "relay solution" panel. Everything worked flawlessly. This was a very rewarding project!
  8. 7 points
    Political threads are very divisive. I well remember when two guys that I know, like and respect.. one left and one right.. blew up Wildguzzi. That caused Luap's "no politics" policy. We, on this little V11 forum, won't cure the problems of the world.. as much as we would like to. My personal opinion is that we should just keep it V11S related.
  9. 7 points
    I don't really come here for politics. But I gotta say; 1) Yeah, we are a democracy, and a constitutional republic. The two are not mutually exclusive. 2)This is not in any way an isolated case. 3) So often in this country justice does not prevail. Especially if you aren't white. 4) It may not be taught, but it is clearly practiced. 5) Sorry, but the media isn't to blame. Turning them off and ignoring this problem won't fix it.
  10. 7 points
    I'll be watching this thread. These kind of topics easily get out of hand and please keep in mind this is an international BIKE forum with views on every side of the political spectrum (and further), so please be respectful.
  11. 7 points
    Sorry...not sure why the picture is coming out sideways..... but here’s my v11 parked out back at night in the low light.
  12. 7 points
    Forgot this is a holiday. With all this hovering around the house, every day is like the last one. For some reason, I thought it was Saturday last Wednesday.. needless to say, the Post Office is closed..but.. I did get the Mighty Scura out and roared around a bit.
  13. 7 points
    Here's the last and no doubt highly collectable run of Lucky Phil Shifter Extenders (tm) I had some thin paint on one, and googled to see if you could recoat. Naturally, some said yes, others no. I'm now in the no camp. Ended up with some roughness and a couple of spots. Thought, Oh, no problem, I'll just bead blast it and recoat.. That's some pretty tenacious stuff.. I'll go to the post office after lunch and pick up some customs declarations which I have to fill out in triplicate, then the post office lady has to fill them out in triplicate.. what's up with that? My packaging lady is off today, too..so it will probably be Wednesday when I start shipping them. If you haven't sent me an email or PM with your shipping address, you had better get on the stick.
  14. 7 points
    Great day for riding on Peak to Peak highway
  15. 7 points
    Found this and just had to post it, I cannot think of a better comment than Peanut's.
  16. 7 points
    Nice today, 14c. Sent fra min SM-A505FN via Tapatalk
  17. 7 points
    It lives! Long day today. The last pieces showed up yesterday so I got them fitted and installed the tank ready to start the bike. I've been talking to Paul Minnaert about fuelling stuff which has been great and informative. Pauls still recovering from the Covid-19 although he didn't go into details he still has a bit to go.Many things affected and it takes some time. Apparently my 15M is an early one and there may be an issue with it's pressure sensor compared to later units which affects the maps you can run. I've also been getting great help from Gritman that was on here a few years ago and has done the same thing. He sent me his bin file which is a really nice of him and much appreciated. I need to see if my 15M and its differences will be ok with this bin. Hopefully it will be usable. Anyway to business. Paul and others reccon the std V11 map isnt a bad starting point anyway so I decided to just try and run it on the map in my ecu and confirm the mechanical stuff and then move onto the tuning. The bike fired up after a little cranking but was only running on the right cylinder which was a bit disappointing The other think I was keen to check was the oil pressure after my relief valve spring mod so I was watching it like a hawk ( I'd hooked up a remote gauge). The oil pressure was too high at 100 psi cold idle so I wasn't keen to to run it too much until I'd fixed that. The issue with the left cylinder was my bad. I had to extend the left injector harness and for the first time I used those new all in one solder and heat shrink joiners. In the middle of a fitted wiring harness you cant use a heat gun so I tried it with my soldering iron which is how I usually do heat shrink in these situations. I wasnt entirely happy with the outcome and went back to the tried and tested process for everything else however I put a meter across the joints and they had continuity so I left them. Bad mistake, feeding and flexing the left injector harness into place dislodged the wires. When I saw then the ends didn't even have any solder on them,DOH so back to the old way, problem solved. I then dropped the sump off and pulled the relief valve and fitted the original spring and shims and threw it back together and cranked it over with the plugs out to get some oil pressure which came right up anyway. Started it up and away it went. Cranking oil pressure cold was 50 psi as was cold idle. Once the oil got to 45degC the idle pressure dropped back to around 43 psi. I blipped the throttle a few times to 2750 rpm and got just under 60 psi with oil at 45 deg C. I was conscious of keeping the engine temp within reason as I didn't have any fans set up. So a bit of fiddling with the balance and idle screw and it sat there idling at 1100 rpm fairly happily. I haven't even checked the CO setting on the ecu so the next job is to hook up the Guzzi Diag and see what we have. No images as for some reason the site isn't happy with the formatting all of a sudden. Ciao
  18. 6 points
    This is a long sad saga on how one person can be so stupid and how you should always listen to Chuck. I purchased a low mileage Australia 98 from Japan a few years back, HiCam engine and running gear identical to a Daytona RS As Winter was coming on apart from idling the bike to check as much as I could that all was in order the bike did no running. I purchased a Caruso pump and gear set to remove the "grenade with the pin pulled" oil pump and to a lesser degree the suspect OEM Aluminuim gears for the service shaft and oil pump drive, the OEM crank gear is steel. I also installed an oil pressure gauge and a dipstick temperature gauge. There were other things done along the way but they're not relevant. Come the next summer I took it out for a ride, the first thing I noticed was the low oil pressure on cold oil at idle, around 50-52 psi. The traffic getting out of town was particularly bad, with road works, diversions, queues and snarled up traffic. Just as I got by the worst of this I seen the oil pressure light come in. Went into panic mode looked at the pressure gauge somewhere between 5-10psi. Pulled off into a convenient car park adjacent to me, killed the engine and freewheeled to a stop. Checking the temperature it was in excess of 120C. Waited for well over an hour perhaps longer until the temperature dropped to around 60C and rode home via a backroad a cab driver told me about. On the ride home I was still dropping oil pressure and rising temperature. As I recall it was about 25psi when I got home, I cannot remember the temperature. Although a backroad with less traffic I was still limited to 30mph, so at no point did I really get the chance to get up speed and some real airflow around the engine. With the low pressure at idle I was convinced that the overheating and low pressure were linked and as the pressure was low from the outset thought I'd start there. The 2V bikes I'm used to will run cold idle circa 60-65+ psi. Cutting to the chase after pulling the bike apart several times, installing several pressure gauges, the OEM pump plus another Caruso pump, running multiple experiments swapping over all sorts of parts between my Sport engine and HiCam, dimensioning several bearings and journals (but not all) and about to strip it again. Lucky Phil stepped in and started to make suggestions on checks. These came to nothing BUT give me a far greater understanding of the engine architecture and I'm very grateful to him. Without his intervention I'd probably have had the engine apart (or in a skip). I also got a friend with another HiCam engined bike to install a gauge onto his and he saw 50psi cold idle. This took another interesting turn when Phil fired his blueprinted HiCam, as he had installed a stronger relief valve spring and obtained 105psi. This told me that the pump has more than enough capacity to support engine oil requirements when escaping via the normal engine bleeds & bearings BUT with the relief closed. When Phil then installed the standard spring, his pressure dropped to 50psi cold idle, so the culprit had to be the relief partially lifting early, that Chuck had told me about so long ago. I'm hazarding an "informed" guess here, but think with the large oil feed to the heads, not present on the 2V bikes to anything like the same degree, it doesn't take much lift from the relief for the system pressure to start bleeding down. Joe Caruso has been brilliant and invaluable during all this, providing me with a lot of pump data and insight. One of the facts made me go "WIDE EYED" was the HiCam oil flow from the pump, was the highest of all the bikes of this vintage. The pump gears are longer (all the pump gear diameters are the same) and spinning faster than the V11 or the MGS-01. So that's where I am now, I'm going to install a Setrab 13 row cooler, which involves shifting some components around & will hopefully improve the heat rejection avialable from the cooler. At the moment there is 15/50 full synth in the bike and if I still encounter rising temps the next move will be to step up to a 10/60 to see if the higher viscosity at elevated temperature will sustain the oil pressure. This was also Lucky Phil's suggestion and Paul Minnaert's on a Facebook Daytona page. I've still a ways to go though to complete the cooler install & here we're still under lockdown, so sometime, hopefully sooner rather than later, I'll be able to take it out and see what happens Just thought it might bring a little insight to those of you lucky enough to posess one of these wonderful machines. I'll update this as and when but it will be slow John
  19. 6 points
    So it's been a while since I updated this thread, but I've been doing stuff. Not "Chuck" type doing stuff but chipping away. Firstly I had a very minor oil weep to sort from the head oil feed banjo on the cases and replace the oil pressure switch where the gauge was fitted. The oil feed banjo was a real bastard to do and necessitated making 2 special tools. I hadn't really done it up tight enough due to the head being so close to one part of the cases you couldn't get a ring or socket on it and even an OE spanner had limited movement. Anyway finally sorted that and used my other special tool to re fit the oil pressure switch. The other issue was of course the fuel tap and I've covered sorting that elsewhere. Its now lovely to use and doesn't leak, hooray. I've got a new one on the way and I'll mod it as well. The biggest issue was the mapping and I spent many hours getting up to speed on Guzzidiag including reading every post on the Guzzi.de forum going back 9 years where Paul Daytona and Meinolf and Beard the Wizard behind diag along with Paul live. This is the home of Guzzidiag and there's a ton of info there. I'm amazed that Paul and Beard got the first iteration up and running in a few months, impressive. With my rudimentary understanding of the system my thoughts were to obtain a .bin file from a Centauro which has a 16M ecu and simply transfer the mapping info into the 15M. Gritman in England you may remember did the same engine swap and kindly sent me his map and I tried that. It didn't run that well and from the fuel map 3D it looked very rich. It ran better than the std V11 map but wasn't ride-able except around the block. I hadn't seen a std Centi map at this point so I had nothing to compare with. I gave Brad Black a call and explained what I wanted to do and he had a .bin for a Centi so he transferred the maps and throttle and rpm break points to the 15M bin and emailed it to me. At the same time thanks to audiomick one of the mods at Guzzi.de and a fellow Aussie living in Germany I was put in touch to Karsten who also had some Centi .bin files and generously sent them to me. I didn't end up using these directly to transfer as originally intended as Brad had done that in the interim for me but I now also had a couple of enhanced Centi bins to compare to what Brad had provided. All this is extremely useful if you actually want to learn and see whats safe to do. It gives you known references. I also had to buy a brand new ECU as the original looks like it had a failed baro sensor. It worked ok but I suspect it had reverted to a default baro setting. So today I loaded the new bin from Brad with the Centi mapping ( which has different load and rpm break points) into the new ecu and fired it up. A little ropey to begin with until I got the balancing and idle sorted and then took it for a ride. Straight away it worked really nicely, only complaint was very minor popping on the overrun. I tweaked the CO up a little from 0 and got that eliminated and it runs and rides like a champ. So time to put some miles on it and see whats what. Big thanks to Brad, Paul, audiomick and Karsten for the assistance as well as Beard for Guzzidiag and the guys that helped it evolve into what it is today. It's a really good tool and in my case has been totally faultless to use. Ciao
  20. 6 points
    Excessive force has never been taught. Has it been practiced? Of course! Sufficient force to overcome resistance is certainly taught, as it is both sound reasoning and should be common sense. Having said that, homicide is certainly committed by some police officers. Why? We will never know. Some of them were never fit to carry badge and gun. Others might have been under a load of stress, on drugs - prescription or otherwise. Either way, and no matter the cause, intentional homicide should net one a controlled environment for the amount of time that judge or jury decides.
  21. 6 points
    I finally got around to looking at messages, emails, and PayPal. Most have paid already. Some have over paid. (!) Don't worry though.. I won't spend it on something frivolous.. it will go straight to beer. Thanks, again!
  22. 6 points
    @gstallons I'm retired now, used to work with Gas Turbines, first in maintenance then latterly doing performance and tuning. Predominently industrial units but some aero derivatives and some steam turbines as well. I was a mechanical engineer but always had an interest in electrical and instrumentation, which was handy for setting up to measure performance runs. I was nothing special and certainly don't posess much talent, to this day I shudder when I think of some of the stupid s**t I did over the years. As far as the job travelled all over doing it, it was a mixture of hands on and engineering evaluation, really enjoyed it and some fantastic times. Guys on here like @Lucky Phil, @Kiwi_Roy , the inimitable @pete roper and no doubt many more, are way more talented in there respective fields than I could ever be. The wiring on the bike was my first ever attempt at a rewire, it's Ok but not in the same league as others, especially some of the guys who worked on aircraft. Second attempt on a mate's V7 racer, that he put back to road use, was a little better. Heartly agree with @knumbnutz, using an M-Unit makes the job a lot easier, if costly. Wiring isn't hard, especially on bike's of that vintage. Break down the circuits, make a diagram of how you're going to do it. Use the diagram to evaluate current/load and size the wire to suit. Once you've did all that you get hands on and route the cables, bundling them into groups. Lastly make the terminations. For detail, the box between the M-Unit and the fuse box housed a resistor (now relocated and replaced with a metal clad unit) in place of the generator warning light. The big silver box houses the electronics for the Sasche electronic igntion and a terminal strip where I had to common up connections. I'd have did it a bit different now but it all works.............so far. Here's short video of an early start after the refurb if anybody's remotely interested, its changed a little since then, but not so much. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-G5zCu5UkEA&feature=youtu.be John
  23. 6 points
    Some cracking stuff here, glorious I posted these up on the Pete's "Look what I found lying about looking sorry for itself" thread, but thought I'd put them up here too. It's not exactly a Tonti but sort of resembles one in spirit and is contemporary. First pic as it was after the refurb the solid discs warped and the pods were too long Second pic before I threw it and me into a wall, which rearranged the fairing somewhat Third is how it currently looks (never bothered replacing the fairing decals, which I should) I'm not a fan of exhaust wrap but I orignally got the pipes Cermakromed, which looked shit, then I had a rethink when I added the cast wheels, so the system went to black. Problem was because of the Cermakrome, the black never keyed properly and started to flake on the headers. By this point I was sick of the whole thing and just thought "sod it" I'll wrap them and its been that way ever since.
  24. 6 points
  25. 6 points
    Cash1000 & I with others about to set off on a cool Autumn morning.
  26. 6 points
    Oh, bugger. It's idling over 1000 on the tacho, haven't checked in GuzziDiag. Might have to go over this again.... Have I invented a new procedure, BTW? πŸ˜‰ Thanks for all your help. In case anyone else is in despair and reads this, here are some things of note.... Things that were compounding the problem: Jammed up white knob and sync rod thread would not allow easy adjustment to get rod on the ball joint without putting something else out of adjustment. Fast idle had somehow crept in after setting idle screws, nudging the right throttle more open before attaching rod, make sure it doesn't nip up the throttle when tightening back up. Possible exhaust leaks. An ECU map that was richer than standard, making the left cylinder (which nearly closed) too rich at idle, therefore sooty. Possible air leaks around perished rubber intake. P.S. I saved myself Β£90 as well, which is how much a Guzzi specialist had quoted for a TPS reset, and I wouldn't have had the satisfaction of knowing I had done it myself, and knowing how everything was set.
  27. 5 points
    Rolled 115,000 today and had to break out some of the Guzzi special tools I keep in this special toolbox Josh made for me. The only thing better than special tools is keeping them in special places and the special people they tie us to . . .
  28. 5 points
    Opened a box from Italy. A fool and his money are soon parted.... now just need to determine if fitting them, and the new crossover, will be just the typical battle with the fitment, or if there are any special tricks or concerns with that charcoal canister/exhaust mount setup.
  29. 5 points
    I guess there's no video section, but here is a little clip of my ride yesterday:
  30. 5 points
    Here is the control panel from my 1972 Fischer X-ray machine. I decommissioned it some time ago, but just could not throw this panel away. So, I built bulbs and a power supply to make it into "shop decor." A "tool" repurposed . . .
  31. 5 points
    Had a little go with the seat hump off, didn't want my rucksack scraping the paint.
  32. 5 points
    Alrighty, now.. they are winging your way after a marathon packing and shipping session with Dorcia's help. Domestic should arrive in 2-3 days. Overseas should arrive eventually. From memory, the longest of the last batch was about 10 days. FWIW, USPS has never lost any that I've sent out so far, but I have tracking numbers if necessary. Whew! It's officially beer o'clock.
  33. 5 points
    Selling my V11, I've loved the bike but I don't have time to ride anymore due to family and work obligations, and she deserves a better life. Got lots of support here so figured I'd post it. Of course posted with a little high of a price for craigslist negotiation but willing to deal. https://denver.craigslist.org/mcy/d/littleton-2000-motoguzzi-v11-sport/7130655616.html
  34. 5 points
    Should fit my Scura just fine then.😊 Thank you for the kind offer to reduce the price, but I insist on paying full regardless of condition. PM with shipping details to follow.
  35. 5 points
  36. 5 points
    Just installed a new set of these on my 03 Le Mans. I put them on my Scura about 8 years ago and they really make a difference. They are now discontinued, but I emailed Customer Service and they located the old V11 template and were happy to make a pair. If interested, call Customer Service at 775-783-5110. The model # is on the second photo.
  37. 5 points
    After reading docc's original post on this I liked the idea he had and the way he did it so I went out and looked at the 30 fuse receptacle on my Greenie , even though it was still functioning it was indeed burnt and starting to disintegrate ..so looking to head off a future issue I followed docc's link for the aircraft breaker mod and ordered one up, and then try to copy his install ....fun little project and satisfying as well!!
  38. 5 points
    Just enjoying life, 16c today. D IPA time. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-A505FN via Tapatalk
  39. 5 points
    V11 has a shorter wheelbase and skinnier tyres and will steer quicker. Also as delivered the Griso's forks are under sprung and over damped and they are run far too low in the yokes. You can't see very well in the pic of mine but the forks, which are Sachs off an RSV4 with Matris internals are lifted to six rings through the yokes, that makes a big difference and next time the Matris shock is rebuilt it will get spaced to lift the rear by an inch which improves things even further. The original Sachs shock is once again under sprung and over damped and the valving and damper screws needles are very coarse. Chances are any Griso you have ridden was poorly mapped and quite possibly incorrectly tuned. I remain gobsmacked how even now, fourteen years after the system started being used, the number of W5AM bikes I see that have been seriously messed up because the people who are working on them don't have a clue, not just owners but *Mechanics* as well! There has never been an easier system to tune but still people screw it up and in a lot of cases once screwed it is very difficult to unscrew it! If the early, 1100, Griso had a major failing it was the de-tuning by fitting smaller throttlebodies than the V11 and, oddly, the greater attention to balancing components. The 1100 is in such a high state of refinement that in stock trim it has lost some of the visceral anger of the V11 donk. That was well and truly addressed with the 1200 but it was let down by at first dreadful and eventually better but still uninspiring mapping and of course it was all for nought due to the dreaded flat tappet fiasco! Once rollerised and mapped correctly the 1200 is an awesome powerplant! A true 'Turbo-Tractor' with torque from nothing to rev limiter and a genuine 100 hp at the rear wheel readily available, (Although getting much more out of the motor is difficult due to its cylinder head design and combustion chamber and the cam timing. Best I've seen on they Dyno on mine was 104. Last time, (Years ago!) I dyno'ed it with its current map I got 102. Every stock 8V I've ever put on a dyno has made 96 on the nail. I'm sure that with some cam and head work you could get a few more hp if you're into bragging rights but in doing so you'd sacrifice the linear torque curve and pure driveability. I think Phil's weight estimate, at least for the 8V, is probably a bit optimistic but it doesn't weigh that much more than a V11. Anyway, at the end of the day both designs are now obsolete replaced by the insipid feebleness of the V85 powerplant. You pays yer money and you takes yer choice. It's not a matter of better or worse, just different.
  40. 5 points
    Well that means I can be biased too!
  41. 5 points
    Nice today to, 13C. ( tuning ongoing, she is amazing from 3k, thank you Meinolf) Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-A505FN via Tapatalk
  42. 5 points
    Here's how mine looks now Pete I know, I know, took a work of art and butchered it Not sure, possibly the Classico & the Arturo were before it. Anyway as already said "Eye of the Beholder", personally I think they are things of beauty, compare them with Guzzi's offering of the time, the LM 1000 from which it's derived
  43. 5 points
    After almost 2 years of searching for a good low-mileage one, my Le Mans arrived yesterday! Bone stock, and only 12k miles. Thanks to Qtip for responding to my WTB ad. Already have the carbon fiber Mistrals ready to install today!
  44. 5 points
  45. 5 points
    Installed a week ago, hard running up and down the mountains last weekend with not a flicker from the oil light 😊
  46. 4 points
    It's only recently that I've noticed how sexy the curvy lines are on the V11s from the rear, but I must admit, I think there is a design conflict when the reflection behind you is measured in acreage not square inches, js,lol.
  47. 4 points
    I say flush the thread as it is outside the purview of the forum.
  48. 4 points
    Thanks for that. I honestly get a great deal of joy sharing ideas and helping people with problems. I do think though that the real talent is materialising the idea and developing it into a workable ,reliable piece of engineering. Ciao
  49. 4 points
    4corsa, You need to put more oil in your gearbox, I put 850 ml in mine. The diff holds 370 ml. Rob
  50. 4 points
    http://www.leccotoday.it/attualita/moto-guzzi-covid-19-lockdown.html http://motoradunomandello.com/
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