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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/25/2019 in all areas

  1. 8 points
  2. 7 points
    found this at a out of the way vintage/exotic motorcycle dealer when I was hunting down some parts for my MV. She’s coming home with me in a couple weeks!
  3. 7 points
    Been looking for a Scura, but coudnt help myself. Defnitly IPA time. Cheers tom. Sent fra min SM-G903F via Tapatalk
  4. 7 points
    Added an aluminium rear hugger that i made. It took 6hrs because the 1st part needed were new mounts needed in the stand. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  5. 6 points
    So here we are and I'm calling this finished. Did the final job today in making a camshaft pulley holding tool so I could torque up the cam retaining nuts. I finished off the cam timing a few days ago which on this engine is really easy. Briefly you find TDC on the L/H cylinder ( with the full stop method in this case) and rotate the engine in its DOR until the its 49.5 deg BBDC and then with the rockers removed from the engine and a dial indicator on the exhaust lifter you turn the cam anticlockwise from the base circle until you get .040 (1mm) of lift. All this is done with the belts and pulleys fitted and the cam micrometer adjusting drives removed. You then just move the cam drive adjuster around until the splines on the camshaft and pulley line up and install. Turn the engine 270 deg to TDC on the R/H cylinder fit another TDC indicator and re set the degree wheel and repeat. Home made TDC stop tool Home made cam pulley holding tool. Cam pulley and micrometric adjusting drive Here's how I had the dial indicator set up. Just a piece of steel ( in this case a Ducati bevel drive exhaust nut tool) bolted to the rocker cover flange and a magnetic stand with dial indicator operating directly onto the exhaust lifter. I forgot to take a photo during the timing task but this is the setup with the rocker installed. Both rockers are removed during the cam timing operation. Finished engine And dressed. Ciao
  6. 5 points
    Should be fine if it hasnt seen too much weather. Apart from oil changes and filters.. new plugs, new tyres. There'd be a few things to check, like the earth on the back of the gear box is clean and earthing correctly. Change the relays. Lube all the moving parts and bearings like the ignition switch, levers, uni joints, swingarm bearings, headstock bearing, new fork oil and seals and probably rechroming the stauncions . New injectors or remove and clean. Same for the fuel pump - get it spinning by air before you apply power and burn out a seized pump. Check the oil pump, no chips in the teeth and spins ok. Spray oil everywhere in the engine and heads. Check and adjust valves tolerances. When you have checked everything, spin the engine up on the starter only (with kill switch on) a few times for about 10 secs each time and for a total of minute Or until the oil light goes out. This would generally happen after about 40secs but if it hasn't primed the oil system by 60secs, you should see if any oil is circulating before continuing. If all good, then start the bike. Ride..
  7. 5 points
  8. 5 points
    Hello all, just become the owner of a '99 greenie xxxxxxxxx111270 Not had an easy life, & a little tatty in places, but nothing that can't be sorted!
  9. 5 points
    On a ride up to Beechmont in the gold coast hinterland Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  10. 4 points
  11. 4 points
    ...and this one... Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  12. 4 points
    This thread needs savin' . . .
  13. 3 points
    Just got the title in the mail today! Quick check of the State Of Michigan's website annnnnnnd: I'm thinking of a custom decal that goes over part of the standard "pure Michigan" propaganda and in the same color and font replace it with "oto Guzzi" hehehehehehe....
  14. 3 points
    270km with CURBS today, now D IPA time. Cheers tom. Sent fra min SM-G903F via Tapatalk
  15. 3 points
    I thought before I get too far into this gearbox stripping and painting I'd better check that the mounts weren't cracked. First step break out the dye check kit. Clean down the mount area and apply the dye. Wait for 15 minutes. Clean it off again with solvent and apply the developer. All good thankfully. Its not hard to see why they can crack here. There is not genuine radius from the vertical machined face to the horizontal area. its just the edge created by the face cutter. I'll create a radius here by hand as there's a decent amount of material and what you loose will be more than compensated for by the removal of the stress raiser from the machining. Ciao
  16. 3 points
    Ooo well that was lovely. Only got sprinkled on for about 5 minutes too. Damn but the sound of those cans on the overrun.... Bike running like a watch🙂
  17. 3 points
    cool road mate. ...video goes aerial @ 2:29 showing some beautiful countryside
  18. 3 points
    Still waiting on new bearings (Koyo C3) and new spacers (from Italy). Radial play in the reardrive pinion has been suspect, so when the rabbit hole opened up I , of course, dove in . . . I asked the other inmates on the ward if this was a form of insanity and they all assured me: I ain't broke, "jus' badly twisted."
  19. 3 points
    So after sitting for ten years in a buddies garage, my son is pushing me to get the 02 V11 Lemanz going again. This outta be fun.......
  20. 3 points
    I find this most confusing ---- but I guess I understand?--- the cdi is mounted to the ecu witch is next to the battery. Why didnt they abbreviate battery also??? Because 1cdi isnt enough th ey installed #2 cdi behind the side plate,so you say,whats the problem? nothing here,I'm gonna have to get me a larger bottle of Bn(bourbon) too cope!!!! Thanks for your imput
  21. 3 points
    Gotcha. A noble venture to resurrect a fine champagne V11LeMans! For parts, I am dancing between MGCycle/ Wisconsin, Harpermoto/Missouri, and AF1Racing/AustinTX There are also a few V11 being broken here in the Classifieds and more on ebay . . . We're wit'cha, bud!
  22. 3 points
    Fixed all the things I broke last weekend lol
  23. 3 points
    Well what can I say,,,,, at least I did check all the wiring again, and it all checked out good , even the 4 connectors under fuse box,to my understanding . New Omron in 5th position and a big smile, pump going. Even Omrons die . Beer on me gentlemen. Would have been great seeing all the faces,,,, changing, Up against the wall, Some good advice and it works out. Cheers tom.
  24. 3 points
    when my fuel pump quits, it's replacing relay #5 that makes it happy
  25. 2 points
    As I recall, there are two different relays, four pin and five pin. If you get all five pin relays, they will work in any slot, four pin or five pin. A four pin re;lay won't work in a five pin relay slot. So it is better to only buy five pin relays. They will work in any of the five relay locations. The extra pin on them simply goes unused when you put a five pin relay into a four pin relay slot.
  26. 2 points
    As I recall, make sure your headlight is properly lit when the engine is running. There is a relay that can cause the headlight to not lit (watch out, there is a secondary light, a running light, in the headlight bucket that may still be lit). If the headlight doesn't have power the charging system won't charge correctly as it senses the state of the battery off the headlight circuit. Relay issues are a common issue with these bikes. There are better relays available then what comes stock. Start the engine, measure the voltage at the battery. It should be over 14 volts. By the way, as I recall 12.84 volts is fully chared for an AGM battery like the Odyssey.
  27. 2 points
    Docc, The issue of disappearing photos is that early in the development of V11 Lemans, they didn't host the photos themselves. They merely displayed photos that were hosted on other websites. This saved on the data V11Lemans had to carry, and made it easier for the site overall. The downside is that when a hosting website (like Flickr, photobucket, etc) has a lapse (user account is lost, site shuts down, etc) then the pic is off the web and off V11Lemans. It looks like currently V11Lemans is hosting the photos themselves, so the "disappearing photos" issue should stop for the new stuff. As an aside, I'm the webmaster for the Italian Motorcycle Owner's Club (IMOC) https://www.imoc.website/ Joe
  28. 2 points
    The pickup tube thats part of the whole lube assy enters the screen unit from a hole in the top.The filter unit itself is bolted to the sump floor. Its there to stop any particles larger than around 1/4mm from entering the pump. I fitted a new one to my Daytona engine during the rebuild as a precaution. Not the sort of thing you need to worry about very much. I wouldnt do a sump drop just to check its clean but if you have it off take a look. Ciao
  29. 2 points
    Um ......HOARDER !!!!!
  30. 2 points
  31. 2 points
    Not sure how well this would match the texture on your black fuzzy engine, but I really love this stuff: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Professional-Grade-Rubberized-Undercoating/?N=5002385+3292638249&rt=rud I used it to re-paint the aluminum lid on one of my Rizoma brake fluid tanks. So far it's held up really well (~3 years 🤔) resisting corrosion from brake fluid and general wear. For spot touchups would probably work really well... The texture comes out looking sort of like leather grain, like on cameras and professional electronics from the 80s. Sort of like this, but a little more subtle:
  32. 2 points
    actually, the one' (s) to have ... is one of each!
  33. 2 points
    Remember, y'all: "garage space" is extra, but we can put two or three Guzzi in one of those spaces.
  34. 2 points
    Actually. Left side stock. Right side is carbon fibre. The carbon rotor is light as a feather and really helps with left/right transitions. A friend of mine gave me the rotor about 17 years ago. It’s a Carbon Loraine brand. Was $2000.00 in those days! I got it for $200.00. Looks cool too! cheers
  35. 2 points
    Hi guys looks like I’m getting more and more busy on this forum. !! Just returned from a 200 mile blast from Portsmouth to Banbury and back on my Greenie . She still looks pretty as I give her lots of love . Three years together . 19688 miles on the clock . Just fitted a new maxton shock . Replacing the cracked Sachs original . Just serviced her with oils and filters and talking to the gurus about TPS and tune up . Loving her still number ZGUKROOOOXM111488
  36. 2 points
    Quick going true, and 16g wiring Cheers tom Sent fra min SM-G903F via Tapatalk
  37. 2 points
    Yeah, it surprised me that link displayed the later "faired" Sport design study from Marabese Design/ June 2000. Luciano, himself, said he designed the V11 Sport in one night, without being asked by any Guzzi management or others; as an inspiration. And he was adamant that his vision was in one color, "monochromatic." Luciano Marabese/ V11 Sport Designer
  38. 2 points
    WOW This exact issue happened to me 2 weeks ago and spooked me pretty good. I had to Kill it on the highway but to a few seconds to "calmly" figure out what was causing it to go full throttle. (exact position it was when I decided to one itup) And yes the white twisty thing was caught on the rear shock precharge. I intended to post it on here and im sorry I didnt. Glad all is ok.
  39. 2 points
    Hi sp838,Just seeing this as I haven't been around for a while,PM me as I am still in NY and have done this conversion,albeit the opposite way,S-D plates,and have the proper Guzzi tools for the clutch assembly... Michael
  40. 2 points
    I found time today and pulled the tank. The culprit: a crack in the hose! I replaced the pipe, along with the fuel filter and air filter. Took the bike for a short ride, no evident leaks.
  41. 2 points
    Caught some snow on Monday (Memorial Day Weekend) in the Eastern Sierra Nevadas. Even managed to catch an 18-inch rainbow trout... and some quality time with my youngest daughter. She and my wife both want to learn to ride now, so I think I might be looking for a small dual sport like a Yamaha TW200 or XT225.
  42. 2 points
    What Docc has just posted is correct as far as I know. I ordered a 6 speed RAM for my Tenni, but was sent a 5 speed one. At the time I didn't realise it could be made to work and sent it back. In hindsight, I could have used my existing clutch hub and swapped the clutch pushrod cup over from the original single plate clutch. I sourced the parts for a 2 plate clutch and a new clutch hub. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
  43. 2 points
    Just a quick update the gear box is now sorted after sourcing a new old stock recall kit from America. The ones fitted from Moto guzzi where 2 mm to thick not slowing the gears to be Selected a massive thank you for everybody’s input on trying to find the problem . The bikes all back together and hoping to get an mot . Regards Tony
  44. 2 points
    Here is a young NZ woman singing about the frustration of troubleshooting the V11 neutral (green) light and sidestand interlock. Then she goes on to explain the existential joy of owning an Italian motorcycle. At least I think that's what she is saying.
  45. 2 points
    I find that saving a couple pounds on the Guzzi is like me skipping dessert... in theory a good idea...
  46. 2 points
    Ok I misunderstood. My 2001 Rosso Mandello had a single plate clutch which they called RAM. This version had a aluminium flywheel that had some problems. I changed to 2 plate clutch to be om the safe side. I know that there is other type RAM clutches on the marked. The clutch hub boss on the 2005 gearbox is the 2 plate clutch version. If others are interested in my parts - let me know.
  47. 2 points
    To build a double plate clutch - you need the following parts: 6 - M8x25 hex screws in hardness 10.9 (black) 6 - Special washers 1 - Flywheel 04067000 10 - Springs (5 - 04084100 and 5 - 13084100) 1 - Pressure plate 30082900 1 - Push rod plate 04082800 2 - Friction plates 1 - Intermediate steel plate 1 - Ring gear 01067930 8 - M6 screws with washers 1 - Clutch boss connected to the gearbox 0421160 (I happen to have almost all of these parts new, but since I live in Europe it will be some shipping cost. Let me know in a PM if you want to talk about buying my parts.) Rolf
  48. 2 points
    docc, you had asked me about a needle tip for greasing the front u-joint recently. I recall posting a photo... but I've lost it ... and the tip, so I got another today. Not the same but it works! Thought I should post results, a good a place as any. The sharp point is tapered and is just the correct size to depress the tiny ball in the zerk. It doesn't have a straight approach, but good enough to get the job done. Keeping max downward pressure, only a tiny bit gets out around the tip. The rest gets through to fill the little bastard. O'Reilley's Auto Parts $15
  49. 2 points
    Thanks for calling me a gentleman
  50. 2 points
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