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this one popped up in the same search... maybe sumthin here. at least dlaing has some p/n's for bearings

milar sent me this slightly larger image. We're still working on hosting and posting the hi-res scan . . .

found this

The green Sport is truly gorgeous. I wonder if a half fairing version 'in the flesh' might be too much of a good thing. Are there any other photos of this design? The Champagne '02 would be the first LM in (almost) one color. I would love to hear their thoughts at the time on decisions made for colors. I have no problem envisioning an all silver, red frame LM. Possibly the first 2 model years having no red or yellow choice, as well as no fairing, was an attempt at distinction from the earlier Sport I line.. ? The green Sport seems to say "this is still a traditional Guzzi" to those, at the time, who may have considered the new design too radical. The Telaio Rosso homage was enough, I think, to leave the fairing off. Also... at the time... would green have been the "flagship" color with black and silver as alternatives? Any pricing variation?

The only issue I see is that one lead is awfully close to the ECU and/or ECU ground wire. Yeah, I know.. it's insulated, but I'd get it away from there just the same.

On a rear stand , pump the brakes about 4 Xs . The wheel will not turn . Break the bleeder screw and see if the wheel spins easier . If it spins easier , the problem is ahead of the caliper . Brake hose , master cylinder or adjustments . If there is no difference , the problem is in the caliper .

Griso 1100 was launched in 2005 but deliveries only really started in 2006. The model was produced for two years really, 2006 and '07 a few were sold in 2008 but were simply plated as that year. The 8V commenced production in 2007 but once again deliveries only started in the next calendar year. Early 8V's were plagued by several problems besides the flat tappet issues. The rear main bearing flange was prone to leaking and the gasket between the sump spacer and the block was prone to blowing out and lowering oil pressure leading to horrible noises but rarely failures. The big issue though was obviously the flat tappet fiasco. Early engines had chilled cast iron tappets. These were quickly found to be failure prone, more so in some markets than others, and there was a recall for these motors to replace the chilled cast iron tappets with forged steel ones with a DLC, (Diamond like Carbon.) coating on the sliding face. Unfortunately these too proved to be unreliable and although there was at least on further update to the manufacture the system continued to fail. Sometimes they take longer on one engine than another but they will ALL fail, no ifs or buts. Be aware that if you are thinking of buying a pre-'13 8V or any 1200 Sport 8V even if you check with a dealer or Piaggio and are told that there are no outstanding recalls on the bike you are looking at it will not mean that the bike has been rollerised as there was never a 'Recall' for rollerisation. In 2012/13 the Piaggio 'Service MotoGuzzi' portal announced a 'Technical Update' which stated that in the event of failure, providing the bike had a full service history and entirely at Piaggio's discretion they would provide a kit for rollerisation but the owner would have to pay for the install. Yes, it sucks, but that's the way it is. The reality is that these bikes are now seven years old at the youngest. Few have a full history and Piaggio just wants to wash its hands of the situation. A free kit is unlikely unless you have a dealer willing to go into bat for you. While rollerisation usually fixes the issue on rare occasions the bottom end will fail after rollerisation due to bearing contamination by DLC debris. As I say, rare, but of the couple of hundred rollerisations we've done we have subsequently lost about five motors, one of which was mine. The answer is to simply purchase a post '12 model as the swap over from flat to roller tappets on all models except the 1200 Sport was in the first half of MY 2012. While there are bargains to be had in buying a flat tappet machine there will always be an element of risk. I've seen engines with sub-10,000km that have completely trashed top ends. I've also seen bikes in their 30's that are only showing the early stages of wear. I'm pretty sure I know why they fail now and it depends on two things, climate and use. The other annoying thing is that until the DLC has all gone and the parent metal of the tappet starts to erode there will likely be no signs anything is wrong. No odd noises or running problems so to the unfamiliar the bike may appear fine. As a general rule if you choose to buy a flattie the lower the mileage on the bike the better! Checking to see if a bike has been rollerised is very easy. Just take off a rocker cover and look, (There are plenty of pics on the web of what to look for.). If you also want the shop to pull a cambox to inspect the flat tappets? On any model other than a Norge you can pull the left hand cambox in fifteen minutes. If they want to charge you a stupid sum, (One poor sod I know was charged $2,000US for this 'Service' to be told his tappets were fine. They weren't!) tell them to go get a big black dog up themselves! There are four different rollerisation kits available. They vary greatly in price. That info, and the cheapest way to rollerise, is also widely available on the net. I for one have covered it pretty comprehensively, it's not worth repeating here. If your Google Fu is so bad you can't find it it's probably best you don't look for a flattie! The other issues associated with all the W5AM Guzzis are them having been 'tuned' by idiots who don't know what they are doing, (There is a thread on this board covering what to do and not to do to the throttlebodies. (That's on a 2V Sport but the principles are the same for an 8V) The other thing is the dreaded grease phobia of Mandello workers. The swingarm bearings and shock linkage are rarely, if ever, packed properly with grease and this should be addressed asap as replacing the swingarm bearings is a right, royal PITA and the shock linkage costs a couple of hundred bucks complete but is within a few dollars of buying the bearings, seals, pins etc. so it isn't worth rebuilding a rooted one. The long and the short of it is that a well set up and correctly mapped 8V is a magnificent thing. This is not to take anything away from the 1200's, 1100's or 850's with the old 2V motor but in terms of performance there is simply no comparison. In the same way that diehards here love their V11's I am a CARC bike tragic and 8V evangelist! The loss of this platform I consider an enormous step backwards for Guzzi but judging by the reaction to the V85 I'm in a minority on that score. No skin off my nose but it's a shame that the most advanced engine they built has been shitcanned in favour of an other 2 valve, pushrod, lawnmower engine. Pete

I think MG cycle had them at one point as well as Guzzibits in the UK. Drive gear was steel and cam and oil pump gears were alloy. Aluminum sprockets are widely used in performance and racing applications both on track and in the dirt. They are considered consumable wear items and not expected to last. They're expected to be light, and to be replaced often.

A few companies over the years including OEM but its a little irrelevant because Alloy gears a rubbish by and large, best to stay away. Ciao

Thanks man, I appreciate the tip. Of course I still have to remove the pan this time to replace the gasket, but the next time around I want to try it the easy way. I've never changed the oil without removing the pan and thoroughly wiping everything clean before reassembling it. It has 43,800 or so miles on it now and still runs as good as it did when I bought it. It had 340 miles when I bought it

welcome back brother. MG Cycle will have what you need. I use a 27mm nut (or 1- 1/16") thats about 20mm tall, that I found in my bolt/nut pile. The recess in the cap is only about 1/4" so you dont need a nut as deep as mine. Then a 27mm socket fits right over to unscrew.

I don't know if I posted these before, but I have high rez scans of Marabese design proposal to Guzzi for the V11 LeMans. Mike

Aerostitch Roadcrafter 2 piece Underarmor long top & bottom Thorlo boot socks Gasolina Typhoon boots Held Rodney gloves Shoei GT Air Did 10k miles/ 8 weeks with this, one t-shirt, one pair jeans, one Patagonia hoody and my AMEX card. I would not change a single thing. FL/TN/OK/KS/CO/WY/MT/ID/WA/OR/CA/NV/CA/AZ/NM/TX/FL. Started at 95*F and saw ~45*F a couple times.

This lists some of the most common problems that crop up with the Guzzi V11 Sport and LeMans. Credit and thanks goes to the contributors at V11Lemans.com Interested in buying a V11? Frequently asked questions from potential buyers Thanks and credit goes to the many V11LeMans website contributors. Are you interested in buying a V11 sport, Le Mans, Ballabio, Rosso, Coppa, etc.? BigJ sums up the gist of this faq pretty easily: "Just see if you like it. It may have flat spots, a clunky box, vibrate, need the suspension set up. Dont worry about it, they're fairly easy to sort/fix. Just enjoy yourself, if you find you're grinning to yourself as you go, its for you. If you dont gell, try another one." Common Modifications (all are well documented in the faq forum) Oil pressure gauge Foot forward controls relocation kits Roper Plate for preventing pump starvation on some models. For installation, see the topic in the How To section: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=9425 Relay replacement Vibration control hSeat Bars Exhaust Intake PCIII a sigma (BC600) bicycle speedometer Rear mud guard http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ost&p=67956 Uncommon Modifications Cliff J's, My16M new CPU http://guzzi.daytona-it.com/ http://daytonasite.free.fr/ Common Problems (most of these are addressed in this faq section in great detail- this is just an overview) Also, not all of these problems necessarily show up. Very few of them have shown up on my bike, and others have their own specific mix of issues. These are the ones that are most commonly reported. Oil pressure light goes on during acceleration- Models with the pump pickup towards the front of the sump can experience pump starvation during hard acceleration. This is made worse by the dipstick full mark being 0.69 inches lower than the actual oil level when refilling with 3.5 liters as specified by Guzzi, with the dipstick screwed in, as specified by the manual. Even with 4 US quarts, tests with an oil pressure gauge showed pressure dropping to zero at maximum acceleration in first gear on level ground. Installation of a Roper Plate and refilling with 4 quarts prevents this starvation. The Roper plate also permits refilling to 4.5 quarts for extra margin. Even with this, pump starvation may occur on long, hard, steep uphill climbs. An oil pressure gauge is a useful addition to monitor this and idle pressure. The oil pressure light switch only goes on if pressure drops to somewhere in the 2-5 psi range. Relays- see the "Best Relay" thread for what High Current relay is currently available. Grounding- Guzzi electrics are not the strongest so one needs to maximize all available power. Check grounds and use dielectric grease on every connector you can get to. Do not apply the grease to the mating contacts, only to the external joint (usually a rubber boot) to prevent moisture from entering. Tail light blows fuse- On some models, e.g. Cafe Sport, the wiring to the tail light is pinched by the mounting bracket and can short out. Simply loosen the screws and re route it. Tach fogs over- cured by drilling a small hole in the tach housing Tach 'bounces'- caused by a bad ground. The tach is grounded through the mounting lugs, not by a dedicated ground. Add a ground wire to the tach (requires disassembly) to cure. Speedometer bounces- common to every Guzzi I've ever ridden back to 1971 models. Sigh. The routing of the speedo cable puts a 'kink' in it. The best approach is to route the speedo cable so it has as smooth a run as possible. Additionally, on the early V11 there is an angle bracket that can work itself unthreaded and disgorge it's worm gear drive...usually at speed. As if that weren't enough- early Veglia speedo's and later ITT speedo's use DIFFERENT cables and these cables are NOT interchangeable. See 'bicycle speedometer' above. Both gauges are commonly optimistic (~8%) in their reading. The tach is also optimistic. Speedometer cable breaks- Models like the '04 Cafe Sport experienced early failure of the speedo cables. This is caused by the sharp bend of the metal tubing just above the transmission connection, which replaced the gears of the earlier generation. When replacing it, be sure to get the current version of the cable housing, which has a flexible tube instead of rigid. Moto Guzzi issued a service bulletin on this. The part numbers for the replacement cables are: 01760481 is the new cable for Cafe Sport, and Ballabio. 01760492 is the new cable for Lemans,Nero Corsa and Rosso Corsa. Clutch/sidestand switch- sometimes fail. Transmission spring boss oversized (year specific) mostly only found on '02 model years. The oversize boss stresses and breaks a spring in the transmission, causing it to get stuck in first gear. A fix has been posted. Flaking engine paint (year specific) 2002 Tank suck- can be an issue, even for bikes built after '02. On some early bikes, the evaporative emissions system didn't function properly and a vacuum would develop in the tank- sucking it in. The two possible fixes are easy- 1) make sure the breather valve is perfectly level, or 2) remove the rubber seal under the lid. If you do the latter, you may spill gas in the event of a tipover. In the case of the later models, the tipover valve must be tie wrapped vertical and right side up. These are sometimes installed incorrectly by the factory. See the thread on this topic in this section for details. Vapor lock- there are some reports of developing vapor lock in bikes that have an external fuel pump ('99-02 models). Heroic measures of insulating the pump have been performed. The best thing is not to drive your bike while hot for 1 mile, stop, drive a mile, stop, etc. which allows the fuel system to get hot (it sets right above the engine) Or, relax and wait 20-30 minutes for it to correct itself. Rear brake 'groans'- it's dirty and needs to be cleaned. There's nothing wrong with it in all probability. Vibration- especially problematic on new Guzzi's. Some bikes have a buzzy vibration that is unpleasant- it's mostly at specific rpm ranges (right around 3800 rpm on my bike). This fades with time and miles. Oil return tube- the ~1/2" (1.25 cm) rubber tube that runs from the motor (just fore of the bell housing) to the frame is low grade rubber- eventually it degrades and starts leaking. It is a pain to replace, but Rich Maund has written an excellent tutorial on how to replace it with quality tubing. Trouble shifting- clean, clean, clean and grease the shift lever, including the heim joints. Your ankle will thank you. Body panel cracks- check to see if the tank rests on the sidepanels. If it does, shim up the tank with a washer at the rear mounting point. Oil cooler bracket cracks - specific to '00 and maybe some '01 models. The aluminum brackets vibrate and crack. Replace with steel brackets. Practically, these should all be done by now. Electric fuel petcock- wires are epoxied into the base of the electric valve and can break from vibration. The fix is to replace with a manual petcock. Poor running when hot. The bike pops, spits, and idles rough. This seems to crop up every summer. While there are many possible causes, one of the most common is simply that valve lash is set too tight. Set the valve clearances to 'world' or 'Raceco' specs instead of 'US' specs. Not so common Problems These have been reported, but only by very few people. Clutch grenading- only reported on single plate clutches (Rosso Mandello, Scura). Not sure how much of a problem this really is. It is the topic of a long thread. Soft valve guides- The rumor is that all big-block Guzzi's have soft guides which wear out quickly. If you're worried, keep an eye on oil consumption and engine compression. Cracked transmission- Only heard of this twice so it's pretty rare Cracked oil cooling mounts- early ('00) mounts were soft aluminum and prone to cracking with vibration. Should be replaced with later steel versions Ignition mounting bolts- are 'security bolts' although not very secure. Some fall out. The suggested fix is replace them with allen head bolts and bit of locktite. Transmission leaks- check the seal on the left side of the case Wheel spacer incorrect length- If your bike goes through wheel bearings (front or rear) quickly, check the length of the spacer in the wheel. Sachs rear shock- a couple of reports of the rear mount eye cracking- check it regularly, clean and grease if you can to prevent rust building up. A tale of two springs- this one is weird- on some bikes, the idle return spring and the seat latch spring were fitted in each other's place. If the idle advance is *really* stiff and the seat latch is weak, it might be this. There are two recalls that need to be done on a specific range of bikes- 1) replace rod connecting bolts (only pre-'01 bikes qualify) 2) replace a transmission part (99-02 bikes) Are parts hard to find and where can I have my bike serviced? No, there are several VERY good online parts sources: http://www.mgcycle.com http://www.mphcycles.com http://www.motoguzziclassics.com and it would be easier asking about dealers on the forum. I'm constantly reading the various ways these bikes break. Do all Guzzi's break down so much? No, this is an internet forum where everyone (including me) posts problems. As such, it gives the incorrect perception that these bikes are constantly breaking down. Occasionally, some kind soul will post a happy ride report or something, but by and large, it's the breakdowns that are newsworthy. Guzzi's are rather well built- just look on any other marque-specific forum and people complain there as well. So then why should I buy a Guzzi? Maybe you should and maybe you shouldn't. It's a very personal decision. I'm biased, and I admit it. I like Guzzi's because they reflect what I think is noble about motorcycles- a simple, well designed machine that will run basically forever. They are way overbuilt in most ways- once the motor is properly broken in, it should run 100K miles (200 Km). The parts used are generally good quality (with the exception of a few choices mandated by 'bean-counters'). Horsepower is not that high compared to other, water-cooled, motors. If you want raw horsepower, you don't want a Guzzi, you want a Honda (or related). The advantage a Guzzi has is torque and good handling characteristics. A Guzzi has torque, and lots of it, which is useful in the real world. They pull like a freight train throughout the rev range. To me, this is an advantage because it forces the rider to be smooth and consistent in their driving, rather than using WOT to go fast on the straights. The Guzzi requires skill to ride well, and riding develops skill. The Guzzi also has soul, which is intangible until you ride one. The engine Guzzi uses has been around since '67 with the first V700's out of the factory. It's a very simple, 2 cylinder, pushrod-operated valve engine. It is a very easy bike to work on if you like to do your own maintenance. The community of Guzzi owners is outstanding; by far they are them most helpful group I've been associated with. But- it's a personal decision. Ride one, see what you think. If it connects with you, then it's yours. If not- find a bike that does connect, and enjoy.