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As I recall, there are two different relays, four pin and five pin. If you get all five pin relays, they will work in any slot, four pin or five pin. A four pin re;lay won't work in a five pin relay slot. So it is better to only buy five pin relays. They will work in any of the five relay locations. The extra pin on them simply goes unused when you put a five pin relay into a four pin relay slot.

Well after years of sitting on these puppies I have finally gotten around to fitting them.The fit is very nice indeed. Elegance. Original chain drive in good condition after 42,000klms The original cam retaining bush which had almost zero wear at 42,000 klms which was a surprise. The updated cam retaining bush. Note the oil feed reliefs machined into the front face to improve lubrication. I had one of the new ones on hand but otherwise I would have just die ground the reliefs. The Lucky Phil cam/crank holding tool.Being the lazy type I made this up with very low expectations but it worked a treat. Just goes to show sometimes you can overthink things and simple is best. Leverage is your friend...sometimes. Gears installed and ready to button up. From the other side. New crank seal installed. Be silly not to. Gears were greased lightly for the first start. I pulled the ignition pickup and put 500ml of oil in there so the gears have some lube for the first start. This area of the crankcase only gets the oil from the front main bearing and cam bearing leakage plus any that might slosh forward under braking from the sump. So the gears rely on the oil pump gear picking up trapped oil in the bottom and flinging it up the gear train and crankcase vent oil and main/cam bearing overflow. Hence filling the well so to speak. A new metal timing cover gasket also installed. Now to replace the manual fuel tap that decided not to shutoff when I was pulling the tank. Faulty somehow. Not very safe to have liters of fuel pouring out the fuel tap with the tank halfway off and not able to be dropped down again so the fuel hose can be connected. After that its the gearbox support plate to install.

Looks fine docc. Fit up the new stuff as you said. Ciao

Grind or rat tail file some notches on one end of the new one docc so you can get a narrow ended drift on the inner race. Even with the collars you can usually get enough radial movement on the spacer to help get the drift on the inner race. After you install one of the bearings drop the spacer in and check how it levels up with the bore end face on the other side. Remember the bearing will have a little lateral play to take into consideration. Ciao

I'd keep the the collars as you have found the spacer drops down and axle fitment is a pain. Some spacers have a notch ground on the face of one end so you can get a drift down the bore from the opposite end and get some purchase on the inner race for removal. I forget if the Guzzi has this or not but when I have them out I always grind another notch opposite the original if it has one or grind 2 notches for ease of bearing removal in the future. My rear spacer had a collar standard. Some spacers only have 1 collar and you can then lever the spacer over a little on the non collar end and get a better purchase on the inner race for drifting as well. Ciao

Oh, ok docc, I skimmed through the original posts again but missed the only 600 mile life. That's very bad indeed. Its always a worry when something unexplained like this happens. All you can do is assemble it all with the best engineering practice you can and monitor the results this time. Cant see why it shouldn't work out better than the original bearings with the correct spacer. If you are really keen you can flip out the seals from the failed bearings and wash out any lubricant and debris and use a magnifying glass and look at the races and see where on the races the wear and failure point is. Is it central to the race which would indicated the bearing has been overloaded or too tight in the bore or lacked lubrication or if the wear and failure indications is a little offset which would indicate lateral overloading from a short spacer. Ciao

Noise from cam gears is not really an issue. Honda V4's like my old RC30 and VFR750 had gear driven cams and met noise regs for road bikes. They incorporated backlash gears with the cam drive gears to help them run quieter. Ducati Desmosedici's are gear driven cams and are noise compliant road bikes. Lots of engines use a gear and chain hybrid drive for the cams these days. The Caruso gears in the V11 run very quiet. I can hear them but thats because I'm listening for them otherwise I wouldnt be able to tell them from the chain driven cam. Ciao

Yes 8 X 1mm thread. Torque, 2-2.2 kgm with loctite 601. Ciao

699 New Zealand just purchased it in need of restoration

50% chance of rain here today.. which means: Rain. So sod it, I’m gonna fit the ol’ earbashers (mivv cans) and spank her across Snakes Pass and back. Snakes is a 20 mile twisty, beautiful, dangerous road across the peaks that the V11 is truly made for! Just got to watch out for large german cars performing alarming overtakes on blind corners...

Not trying to be picky, and you may know this already: the permanent magnets in the rotor can slowly lose magnetism if not kept inside the stator. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/18967-sorting-out-a-multiple-owner-2003-lemans/&do=findComment&comment=211275

Um ......HOARDER !!!!!