Leaderboard

Yeah, the drawing was elucidating, far better than what I have. But I was referring to your lucid explanation.

Listening to Dutch rockers DeWolff. Led Zeppelin on acid ;-)

Wow, Kiwi_Roy, clearly and succinctly stated. Inroads into my puny brain, so thank you for schooling me. Much easier to conceptualize. I had a print/copy of the wiring diagram, it was fuzzy, written in Italian in 4pt type, printed in black and white and I believe topped with marinara sauce for good measure; Tolstoy translated into Swahili for my befuddlement, in other words. Thx.

^^^^^^ reminds me of Jerry Lee

If one (by mistake) remove the positive cable from the battery before the negative - it is very easy to touch the ECU with the wrench. Thereby the ground wire from the ECU (directly, but hidden to the negative battery pole) will "be burned" and since the original ground wire is put together with a lot of other cables in a cable loom - all will be partly damaged. The solution is easy. Disconnect the original ground wire from the ECU (which leads to the negative pole on the battery) - and replace it with a separate wire "in the open". So if someone later tries to remove the positive cables from the battery -and touching the ECU, without first the negative - the new open wire will get burned alone - and all others will be safe. Rolf

Well the cracked gearbox case has been a factor. I need to visit a mate of mine to get it welded and i also need to get the side flow injectors cleaned and flow tested. Plus there's this little fellow (Merlin) thats arrived. I havent had a dog in a very very long time. Forgotten how much time goes into a puppy. More work than a toddler. Std Schnauzer btw. Ciao

I'd say this is not acceptable, even when it's quite common. Make sure you use 12.9 bolts and torque them to 40Nm. You may also cut the slots some millimeters deeper to ease the clamping. Of course, that's up to what nerves you have in real life, internet off. But done properly it's a proofen modification. Some words about the alignment: Because of the wide rear tyre the U-Joints don't move in one plane only. Look from above and you'll see the shaft pointing outwards. That's the reason they weld them with some degrees more/less then 180°, it's to reduce the resulting transmission failure. And be easy with grease on the moving part of the shaft. The spines should be able to glide 'freely', too much grease and they're stuck. Common fault because this zerk is the only one everyone can reach

Here is my V85TT playlist with all relevant videos and reviews (Italian, German, English, French, Dutch, etc.):

Wish I had your energy, Scud.. I detest beating on automotive crap. Speaking of that.. where's the hammer? Nice work, though.