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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/14/2019 in all areas

  1. Ah, yes; I remember that last pic. I had just told Josh that if he couldn't keep up with an old fat guy two-up on a Norge, perhaps he should consider another sport. He took it well, actually. Bill P.S. Hope to post my SSR XV slideshow soon.
    3 points
  2. Old roads new roads...
    3 points
  3. 2 points
  4. Just cleaned up my front brakes and changed the oil. Looking across to the clutch cylinder on the bars and the fluid looks like cold tea. I know it’s a pain to get to the bleed nipple so have sort of ignored it for a long time . Any way the battery is out of the bike, so I removed the starter motor and the rear shock cylinder thing, all the room you will ever need to get to the bleed. Job done, easy peasy
    2 points
  5. What an amazing bundle of hot-hot bikes and dedicated riders! Nicely done, people!!! SpineRaiders, all!
    1 point
  6. wicked cousin.... Viva Tonti! "... pronounced Gootsie ... try to keep up"
    1 point
  7. Lots of cows and sheeps behind the wood!
    1 point
  8. Shame about all the heavy traffic. . .
    1 point
  9. Looks like V11scura02sport has a Scura and we all know about the flywheel issue within the clutch assembly. Perhaps this what concerns him? How about one of our multi-lingual, or Spanish speaking, members help out our new friend?
    1 point
  10. Thats what i've been using for some time on multiple italian machines, and i also have had my electrical issues go away. Thing is though, i have to admit that some time back I ended up defaulting to just going through the italian machine electrical the first winter I would own the machine (winter projects, not during riding season :->), which meant the roadstercycle mosfet regulator, upgrading any suspect looking wiring from stator to reg and then on to battery, removing un-needed italian butt connectors, then often also spending the $$ on the hicap cables. I used to fret over which of those changes was the most important, but ended up drinking the coolaid for "its my toy, and i want it right" to justify the expense in each case. A wise case can be made for all that being overkill and a waste of some of that money, as well as for the opposite, which is to have a well sorted machine. over time. i've had success with each of those fixes on different bikes, so i usually do them all now. The hicap cables worked wonders on my old ST4, whereas just upgrading the wiring and connectors to the VR from the stator on 3 different Gran Canyons seemed to be the real silver bullet for the issues that plagued that model. The shindengen I also do, but not as clear on whether it really was the answer based on trial & error, since that upgrade was always accompanied by another change (usually the wiring upgrade, which is certainly the cheapest of all those options). In fact, now that i think about it, i started doing that in around 2005, and since then i have not had a single electrical issue on any of my (modified as described) bikes. knock on wood. charging is great, batteries last 7+ years and are only replaced because i figure its time and not because of any bad symptoms (though note i also use deltran batt tenders all winter, always), and no oddball "won't start" issues. Very possibly just lucky, but the miles, years, and number of italian machines so modified are adding up to what might be a relevant data set...
    1 point
  11. which cables/laptop to you use? i have the tuneecu setup, which if i recall correctly i run from windows on my mac via bootcamp (but now that i think of it, i upgraded my mac and i think i skipped the windows partition..... damn, forgot about that). It reads/writes to some ECU's, but not sure if its apples-to-apples, plus i'd need the cables specific for the V11. probably a thread on this, so i'll take a look, but a bump here could get me going down the right path. I'm not at all sure i'll even bother. I love the way the LM sings above 4800rpm, once i got used to letting her rev up that high. Always felt like the "tractor" should be treated nice, with the rpm's kept lower for that nice torque, but its so smooth and linear above 4800rpm, with no buzz/vibration, and instant throttle response, that i now tend to just ride her more in that zone. Funny, as people always say its not the rpm-lover "like a ducati" (commonly noted thing), but i find this V11 runs smoother than anything i've owned (other than 2 strokes) in that higher rpm zone. The only reason i'd mess with the ECU is to see what it is that "I didn't know i couldn't live without" in regard to the lower rpm zone, plus the ever present desire to mess around with stuff that should by all rights just be left alone... :-> I owned my oilhead boxer RT for over 65,000 miles before i installed a gizmo that some oilhead enthusiasts who were dialed into the ECU challenge came up with (AF-XIED, or some such acronym, which was a plug and play device for "tricking" the ECU), and low and behold a light shown from heaven and bestowed beautiful low rpm performance that i didn't know was something i had been missing.
    1 point
  12. Love PennAdam's RossoMandello! Sweeeet! Ridin' on Appalachian mountain roads . . . in&out of the shadows, head up, late apex, and roll on! "Show up. Bring tools."
    1 point
  13. It's a WKF that red paint has much higher tensile strength than black hence the more chassis rigidity of the red framers and better handling. You need to carry a post it note with "please turn" to stick to the top triple clamp every time you come to a corner with a black framer /sidecar hauler. Real men like em to wriggle a bit when you're riding em. ciao
    1 point
  14. For your viewing pleasure - Bikes of Datil 2019
    1 point
  15. Here we have a stack of plates. They don't weigh much independently, but dang... they sure get heavy when you pile 'em up. All nice and official with motomoda Australia etched right in them - along with a phone number. So if you forget the number to Pete's dealership, just take your engine apart, and there it is...
    1 point
  16. Another surprise. I pulled the old input shaft seal today and noted the input shaft fwd bearing not seated in the casing to the tune of 1.5mm short. You can see the evidence of this in the inner race. Should be fairly easy to rectify. Its not a major issue other than the bearing outer race is not fully supported in the case. Makes you wonder whos putting these things together sometimes. Might be the same guy that lubricates CARC swingarm bearings. He's moved onwards and upwards. That's around 1.5 mm short of the shoulder. Evidence of the bearing not running central on the race. Ciao
    0 points
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