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Hi, just thought I would post some more research, I was looking for exhaust studs, as mine had turned into exhaust bolts🤔. I found various near misses, but wasn't happy with the thread lengths. I certainly my did not want stainless (I have been stung before!). I discovered some Ford models have nearly exactly the same studs for mounting Weber DCO/E carbs, the inner thread and smooth section are exact, the outer thread is a couple mm shorter. Burton Power make performance parts for Fords, and so you can get 4 nice high tensile studs and 4 extra wide brass nuts for £10. I love brass nuts, it appeals to my inner (or outward) coward; that brass will go long before the stud or head (that is the theory). Here they are next to my old ones: And in, but not nipped up yet: Compared to other studs sold as "Guzzi V11" parts on eBay etc. they are nice and cheap. And I believe they are a quality part. https://www.burtonpower.com/stud-m8-x-45mm-inlet-manifold-each-studm8.html https://www.burtonpower.com/brass-nut-m8-extra-wide-nbm8.html Of course you could use the standard done nuts if you liked. Thanks for reading! Edit: I have looked into them a bit further, they are Weber DCO/E carb studs

Today i discovered I have a faulty fuel lamp! Stuck in the wilderness, waiting for my son and a can of gas. Indian summer in Norway today and all good. I also got a red lamp screaming at me most of my trip. Charging problem. That’s worse. Next week the Greenie is going to my basement for the winter and a full service. New rear tyre, new throttle house rubber on both size, new spark plugs, fuel filter, airfilter, changing oil and filter, gear oils, new Omron relays, etc etc. Wish me luck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

agreeing with this line of thought, I would do as gstallons suggests, and eliminate any potential problems with external shift components first. You will have wasted no time on it as it most likely needs cleaned, lubed, and thoroughly inspected, if for nothing else, peace of mind. Then think about the pre-selector mechanism, which, for real peace of mind, (and motorcycling enjoyment) truly must be seen too and sorted in the manner outlined on this forum. It's easy enough a job for the mechanically inclined non professional, and getting the new shift spring in there is highly recommended.

Experienced my first main fuse meltdown today, but didn’t know about it before now. Must admit I ignored the red charging light during my fast ride today, because I was so eager to blow some steam off on a curvy road just north of my home. Indian summer, low traffic, mountain area, clear blue sky, man and machine become one. Nothing could stop me. Not even a red light. Well, at last it did. It caused the low fuel indicator to fail, so I ran out of fuel in some rural area... Later on the turn signal stopped working, and when the starter motor failed after filling fuel, I knew the battery was almost empty. Thank god I had spare fuses with me. The fuse holder was also pretty melted, but managed to replace the 30A fuse. A friend of mine came along, lucky me! Of course he had jumper cables and a multimeter. He’s a Harley driver. Can’t hardly wait to get the Greenie in the basement for winter, and start the big makeover. An 30A circuit breaker sounds like a good idea:) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I knew he was lying when he said "Very fast".

I know several guys who swear by V-Power and similar high priced low ethanol stuff - and yet report swollen tanks. Well, these plastic tanks are 20 now, a long time even for slower chemical reactions. E10 is good for Guzzis, technically, alas our European alcohol is made from Amazonian rain forest, burned down for corn and sugar plant mono cultures. If you have a choice you might consider this

I used to work as a M/C tech for a living .... between that and the mountain of projects lined up in my garage makes me want to avoid this for a while, so don't hold your breath docc... I will happy to take photos and post the results when I get to it though. As for cleaning and lubing the linkage, I wholeheartedly agree it should be done.... however, I'll wager you a cheeseburger or two that the linkage is fine. I live in Canada"s answer to California aka God's Country.....I'm too much of a pussy to ride in the rain.... and too lazy to wash the damn thing, so no corrosion anywhere. It does get clean oil and ethanol free fuel though.

Aprilia attorneys must have insisted on two cables as a fail-safe in case of a failed return spring. p.s. stumbled upon the adjustment procedure in the shop manual. Will have to adapt to the particular linguistics in said document.

I seem to recall Scud's investigations revealed an explanation why the up and down tension differ (?) I am anxious to hear what you find as my lever has hesitated in the down position a couple times in the last three thousand miles . . .

Thanks for the replies gentlemen. I will check the pivot bolt, but pretty sure I is ok. Even the slightest movement of the shifter and it will return to centre, so nothing is hanging up. I'll go through the "Shift Improvement", but hope I can delay that until the dead of winter. It still strikes me as odd that the spring pressure is so different between the up and down movement of the shift lever. That spring in the photo looks like it would provide equal pressure either way. If the spring was broken... seems to me it would be "no pressure" If the spring was dislodged somehow, you'd think it would affect spring pressure for both up and down movement Y/N? Is the pressure supposed to be more or less equal either way?

Nope. my 2002 is uno

Sorry guys, I forgot to turn notifications on. That's pretty noob-like. I appreciate any and all wisdom. Probing into the new-to-me bike, the last thing I wanted to do was break something that would require Carlo to be bribed out of retirement in Mandello del Lario to make a replacement part. I see it's a simple setup - much like the dual cable setup on an EX500 I own. However, I came up with a field expedient: I put the dial calipers on the ferrule of the cable at the throttle body end. 4mm. Broke out two 4mm nylon washers from the stash and split one side of each with a utility knife. Slipped them over the cable itself, then pulled the housing free of the bracket and slid the two washers over the ferrule. Popped the ferrule back in place and done. They are captured in place and no fiddling needed. Virtually all slack now gone (good idle from lock to lock) and even if one or both washers come adrift (can't imagine that), it simply defaults to the prior slack. I have noticed a ton of both torque as well as engine braking. First hyd clutch, so some getting used to the whole thing. Have ridden shafties before, so that part is familiar. Very little else about the bike is familiar, accentuating that Guzzi personality, I guess. I much prefer slack-less throttles, as both upshifts and downshifts can be done more smoothly - at least by this klutz. The pic shows the washers in place. This was so easy that I fear what comes next! Actually a Roper plate at oil change is probably next, but that is relatively straightforward. I've already solved several jigsaw puzzles in removing the Hepco &* Becker mounts, swapping the Motobits controls for stock and pulling the fairing and headlight to do an LED swap.

The steam locomotive, the dinosaur skeleton, the rain... such strong metaphorical art!

OK, Thanks for the replies & interest. I have a kit on the way for my bike. In communicating with John about his possibly having another batch of kits made, he made an offer to sell me everything I'd need to take over the business. It is a HELL of a good offer. I thought long & hard about it, even talking to a machinist who could do that part locally, but, reality reared its ugly head. I'm 73 years old, dealing w/heart issues that don't need any added stress in my life, so I have to pass. I asked John & he said I could spread the word that he's looking for someone to buy him out & go into the business of having the parts made, assembling & selling the kits. If this idea appeals to you, contact John Mickowski ......"sixela(at)warwick(dot)net" Thanks, ronkom

Man, I could use a top off just reading it.

lovely image. Ciao

What a delight to enjoy Bill's view of SSR XV. (We still don't talk much about SSR One . . . ) A true South'n SpineRaider and treasured friend!

The shifter return spring is *really* heavy. That, combined with the heavy pawl spring causes a divot in the shifter pawl where the spring is heavily loaded on the down shift. It can hang up there. You'll probably want to put in one of the new lighter unbreakable pawl springs, and blueprint the preselector mechanism per the thread by Lucky Phil.

# ! remove the shifter pivot bolt . Loosen the locking nut behind the bolt , hold the nut w/a wrench and unscrew the pivot bolt . If it is rusty , lubricate the bolt and shifter and replace . If it is not , plan on removing the shift cover and repair .

drive belts are superior to chain and driveshaft.

One of the aspects of the happenstance formula of the current South'n Spine Raid is the serendipity of coming across other SpineRaiders unexpectedly. Like fueling up halfway there and some magnificent V11 (doslemans) rolls in to our delight!

Sew... I just bulk uploaded a bunch of video to YouTube. The files ending in 'F' are the front camera, 'R' rear camera. Some of it is typically boring, following minivans etc. Some are ok. There's Cherohala, Tail, and hwy 22 south in there, as well as Ballpark road going North. Better than Judge Judy for background noise, I guess. Spine Raid footage

Haha! Well, Spine Raiders keep coming from further away and more States. We have yet to host a Raider from any really far-flung place like Varsseveld, Bungendore, Eindhoven, Coburg, or New Zealand. Or even British Columbia! We'll make room at the inn, y'all!