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Regarding Iridiums, maybe I shouldn't, but, I put them in all my vehicles....Z's like them, Guzzi like's them, even my '87 Jeep. Guys, thanks for the feed back on the cables. This is what I was looking for. I'm getting ready to run extra grounds on the Rectifier, ECU & starter. I pull the 30amp when she's on the battery tender---looking at the Optimate instead of the Battery Tender----& fuse hasn't been caught melting like before. Once again, thank you guys for all the feedback & pointers. My Baby has become such a beast; New fork seals & fluid, fuel filter, BMC air filter, BIG oil change (engine, tran, final drive) with pan off to clean out any sediment, new NGK plug leads, new heat shielding under tank, ASV levers, carbon Mistral slipon's, & fresh rubber(Metzeler Z8's). Love that thing !

Learn to wrench? I am not sure if I've learned much but owning Guzzis have given ample opportunity in that regard.

IMO, the older the engine design, the weaker the igntion system, the longer the plug leads - all are valid reasons to install Iridium plugs. I am hedging my bet, but I installed Autolite Iridium XS plugs to try out. Starting immediately improved. Visually, even engineering-wise, there is virtually no difference between them and NGK or ND. Except they are made in North America, there are no Chinese counterfeits running around and they are about $7/pair in the US. Sure beats $15/ea. Redline Motorsports in sunny South Carolina is blowing them out for the princely sum of $7.12 per pair w/free shipping. But, I also was patient and scored a pair of NGK Iridiums to have on hand. Comparoing them to the OEM NGKs, it is easy to see that he spark is far less shrouded than with the standard plug. Perhaps there would not be as big a difference with carbs, but with the finely (haha!) metered MM injection, that mixture needs all the access to the spark that it can get. Being familiar with Italian electrics since the late 60s, I might just take MotoLectric up on their cables.

Here is the answer I received from MotoLectric: We use plain copper because when put under multi-ton pressure the copper from the terminals grows into the copper of the wire and they merge into one mass. It’s called cold welding and is done in some other electrical industries. In a vacuum, you can actually put 2 flat pieces of copper together and they instantly merge and there is no 2 pieces anymore, they are now 1 piece. We have planned to document that that is why we use the bare copper but it is on a long list of tasks yet to be done. We actually coat the exposed copper with a Shield product that seals the surface. I have the details below. Tinned terminals and wire is less conductive as tin only flows 15% the current that copper will flow and the crimps are not as good as the tinned copper takes more pressure due to the hardness of the tin vs. copper. The lower current flow of the tin is not a super big deal but every little detail adds up and we want to make the best circuit upgrade we possibly can. ——— [Special shipping update / new version announcement - We are constantly striving to improve our products and we were in the midst of revising the kits (slightly) and you are receiving the very latest design. We now apply a new surface sealant during fabrication of the kit and it replaces the dielectric grease - > (the grease is no longer included in the kit). We found that some riders were forgetting to apply the grease and just leaving the copper bare. This coincides with our product name change to HICAP•SCDC High Capacity • Sealed Current Distribution Circuit This new high technology treatment seals the copper surfaces against harsh environments and so the circuit is 100% sealed. The new version kit has a colored tiewrap through a positive terminal hole because although the chemical is blue in quantity, the treatment is invisible after it bonds to the metal. ——— Thanks,M./Michael Heth1 (415) 992-7840

DOCC, I have that same fairing !...it came with the bike when I picked it up last year, but haven't installed it.....missing some hardware, but, thank goodness for MG Cycle....

I figured that gunning the motor and accelerating like heck was one of the reasons I cracked the gearbox case. So I guess I needed the brace so I could continue to gun it like heck.

You are thinking of AC current. That AC "skin effect" becomes more pronounced as the AC frequency goes higher, and is only noticible at kilohertz ranges. DC current flows through the total cross sectional area of the conductor. Exterior tarnishing cannot limit current in the cable, except at external connections like crimps. I agree that Iridium plugs are worth the money.

>Well Guys, like I said I struggle with the webby stuff and spent a half hour emailing/downloading/downsizing/creating an album blahblahblah then the tech tells me I can only send so many bits of data - Doh to quote your man Homer-so ye are gonna get a one off snap of a very special Griso based machine snapped in Stafford Show UK a few weeks back - the builder whose name I didn't get is standing behind the beasty. Its bedtime here so I will have another go tomorrow at sending on a snap or two of my V11 Le Mans rumbling around an old Irish road race venue that now hosts a recreation of the old event, last held in 1967. The Stafford Show is well worth a visit if you happen to be going to the UK in either April or October as it runs twice yearly and all sorts of odd things surface there.

Hi Guys Would like to forward a few snaps of my V11 finally getting ridden - what is the techy secret to sending snaps from an Apple phone pleez? Grazie Locky