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68C is right, but for me, I went a cheaper way. I saved the existing map using IAW15XREADER, and carefully labeled the saved file. This saved file can be reloaded over any other BIN file at any time. IAW15XREADER will take about 15 minutes to save your file, and IAW15XWRITER can overwrite a new BIN in about 10 seconds. My ECU has been overwritten several times. All the BIN files I tried were good, some were excellent. I didn't feel that any would fail to get me home.

It's that legendary Italian Racing Green, huh? The only recorded case where a V11 felt "lighter than air"

Hey up guys, A couple of instances of non-starting lead me to noticing that how the seat cable is routed results in it pressing up against the rearward relay. I’ve lashed it to the sub-frame now so that’s that, but might be something to check? What is that relay for again? Basically I had a starting failure where the bike was priming and cranking fine but not firing up. I did an amateur relay wiggle which did the job so am wondering if my diagnosis is correct? Docc- I remember seeing that you’ve labelled your relays, can you post a pic purlease?

Try it. For very little effort, you can add your experience to the forum. I believe that the 4000 rpm hiccup that the V11 engine is prone to, is caused by inlet valve clearange too tight when engine is hot . A bigger valve clearance helped my bike. You lose nothing except your own time by trying different clearances.

I put a piece of silicon foam between the relays to reduce movement, and a slid a piece of split rubber hose over the seat latch cable. I don't know if it helped much, but it didn't make things any worse. See bottom left of picture.

"Wiggle Test" is something I learned from a book on "Preparing the Ford Sierra for Motorsport" (The US Merkur XR4Ti). That thing made the V11 look like the pinnacle of engineering and design success. What the relay/fuse wiggle will not find are the nefarious, hidden spade connectors under the fuse block for Fuses #1/ECU and #2/Fuel/Ignition. One of those jiggles loose and it can drive you mad.

Some of us just wiggle all the fuses and relays and spray contact cleaner over everything. The next step is shake those chicken bones and dance across the driveway. I haven't gotten to the sacrifice offerings.

Get yourself a second hand ecu, any WM15M, could be from a Guzzi or a Ducati 750/900. Practice loading and unloading the maps, play around with adjustments without risk as you will have your original intact. You could carry the original ecu in the tail stowage until happy with your new map as a get you home item. Once happy sell off one of the ecus.

I also label the fuse functions as to be visible from the left side on the side stand. (Likewise, ignore the 30 amp Maxi fuse, that did not work and been superseded by a circuit breaker.)

Pay no mind to the relays in this view, the image is only to show my method of labeling relay functions: Start - Lights - Neutral - ECU - Fuel/Ignition

What do you all think about how these are regarded in general among all the other V11s produced over the years? Are they special or just another run like the Ballabio, Nero, Scura, etc...? Thoughts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I thought I'd have a play around with the throttle bodies and TPS sensor and also confirm my wiring for the PF09 TPS was correct when fitting the old style plug to the V11 loom as the colour coding is different. I made up a 5V power supply and some flying leads and confirmed the TPS read outs were correct and thought i'd do a preliminary set of the TPS which I can confirm when I power up the system on the ecu. bearing in mind that I have no idea how this engine ran or the mileage originally the TPS condition could be anything and I want to eliminate as many variables as possible. mechanically the Throttle bodies are acceptable from a wear perspective although I replaced the plastic connector rod ball assembly. Unfortunately I couldnt get the TPS reading below around 200MV unless I tapped it with a screw drive handle and then I could get it to around 140MV with the throttle blade completely closed which would work if evertime you stopped you tapped the TPS. I ran out of TPS adjustment so I decided to see if I could pull it apart and see what was happening. Although this isnt really relevant to the V11 as it uses the later TPS it might be to anyone following in my footsteps down the track. The PF09 TPS is held together with small metal press rivets so I used a box cutter blade into the joining line and gently twisted the blade to get the rivets to release. Going from one side to the other slowly slowly until I could get a 0.020" feeler gauge length ways into the gap and use those. It helps if you use one on each side simultaneously to prevent the halves rocking as it separates. The whole process took quite a while like 15 minutes but it came apart without looking like it had been apart, ie not butchered. This is the process. And this is what it looks like apart. Note the crud and rubbish on the wiper fingers and also the foam seal and rivets. Also note the strong return spring and wiper faces. Here it is again after cleaning with a very small paint brush and contact cleaner followed by contact cleaner and cotton wool buds. Here you can see the closed stop screw assembly. So after cleaning I hooked it up to my 5V supply and checked the operation. Still not able to get it below 190MV but it was stable now. So next step was to adjust the stop screw. Nothing magic here just adjusted it until the reading bottomed out at 14MV and left it there. Not sure why this was the way it was, dont think wear was a factor, maybe it wasnt adjusted properly from the factory. Dont really know. , Wide open throttle, 4.76 volts which is the nominal voltage of my power supply. Anyway re assembly is simple just put the halves together and use a small tool to press the securing rivets back in place.I also changed the securing screws over to the Torx type I had off another set of Ducati throttle bodies as my original straight slot fasteners were a bit ropy. Ciao

Franklin , Tn. Is that where all the rich people live ?

That’s a good one to know! All sneakily hidden away tsk!

I can't find anything either. a flash of a greenie... behind a car and a RC51? wish I could understand, they sound excited

I just realized that you're the lad doing the fly & buy coast to coast, I think you're making a very wise choice getting a road biased 80/20 tire, you'll be covering a lot of pavement to get home. I noticed that you mentioned earlier not being familiar with Shinko, they are the old Yokohama factory/tires, very well thought of by lot's of people in the know. Patience,prudence and common sense goes a long way with my 705's, I rode up the gravel trail to the top of Eagle's nest lookout in Calabogie, no problems, no drama. I did get into trouble with them twice, but stupidity were issues both times; once was on a group ride with waayyy too quick a pace for the loose fresh gravel on the dirt road, the front end wanted to wash out on a corner,,,, one spring I did some exploring on a muddy road through a swampy area to check out the flooding of the Ottawa River,,, I didn't get stuck or fall over, but I was a sweaty muddy mess by the time I duck paddled out of there. I'm not sure how much reading you've done and how prepared you will be for the ride home, but just in case some of the O ring seals on your wheels start to leak, a small compressor & some type of sealant, locktite? might be nice to have with you. Sounds like a great adventure, I look forward to reading your updates. Good luck and safe riding Kelly

Ok, got my new RPM gauge. I can set what they call the "Stroke Setting" which is how many sparks per revolution. The V11 is 1 spark per revolution correct? There are 8 different modes I can set this device to calculate the proper RPM as seen in the chart I placed below. The lead simply wraps around one of the ignition coil spark plug leads. I am assuming to put the device on the 1P1R mode...but have been wrong before Thanks guys, you all kick ass.

Excellent sauce. Cheers docc! I’ve not had a problem till now but I’m guessing that miles and miles of good vibes thru the latch cable may have stressed the relay base (or just that relay) causing consternation in the system.

Hey-yep . . . stand by . . . That rear-most relay (#5) is the majorly stressed fuel injection/ignition relay. It also feeds Relay#4 for the ECU, so that is part of the completely separate wiring harness for the V11 to run and includes fuses #1 and #2. This is the circuit that Kiwi_Roy's "Go_Winkie" monitors. I recall K_Roy's measurements confirmed Relay5 carries some 22.5 amps. Definitely un-good for a 20 amp relay, especially if the Chinese have over-rated it . . . [edit: Best Relay] Also critical the relays make good contact. [edit: Relay Base Repair] Great catch finding the seat latch cable against the 5th relay! Going to check mine now . . .

I would agree... but my blibblob is pretty much a sport now due to no fairing and clip-ons. Love the paint job on a tenni though- gorgeous shade of green

nice tread wear review on the Mitas. I like the look of it..

probably not much...

My Rosso Mandello, after its shake down ride, all good and ready for the riding season

Of course it’s “special” - name one V11 which isn’t? However, there’s one quality which stands out which “models” are special - the ones equipped special - those running Ohlin’s. That said, imo the Tenni model is uniquely special - as the only V11 to ever have raced at the Isle of Man TT 🇮🇲 Bravo! Respect.

I use Motorcraft electrical grease on electrical connectors . Amen on the dielectric grease and it's misunderstood purpose .

Do you still have the Kaboom flywheel or the improved one . If you have the OEM , that's like riding around with a dissected aorta !

I never got an answer about the maps, I've been using the stock map and enjoying the sound. To be honest I've been riding my sh#tty Norton and suffering with the overrun. Pray for me.