Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/19/2020 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    In light of my imminent return to the V11 Le Mans family, I've made a donation to the keeper of this most excellent forum, and encourage those of you who haven't in a while to do the same. Best wishes and good health to all of you.
  2. 3 points
    Bungee the fluorescent tubes to the rear tire a couple inches off the ground so they fit tight to the front and rear face of the tire on each side then measure the distance between the two as far out in front of the front tire as they go compared to the measurement just in front of the rear wheel, I had 8 foot bulbs.
  3. 3 points
    Did you dig out your old Golden Earring * 8 track tapes from under the seats when you said goodbye ?
  4. 3 points
    I'm reading a lot of good books on Cloud library and Libby, free if you have a library card! and building Art in my garage now that my welding class is postponed. Can't show it yet but it's pretty ambitious after my first found object art project. First project was a weathervane shown here not yet finished,
  5. 3 points
    Update (sort of): I traded my Volvo 240 for... a Volvo 240. 2 years younger and a lot less kms on the clock. (My GF started to worry)
  6. 1 point
    True docc but that relies on the vented fuel having an escape route and in the case of a V11 that route is the tank cap recess drain. Ciao
  7. 1 point
    I would forget the keyed cap and use a nice race cap. I have one on my bike. You can even buy race style caps these days with a dedicated small tool key that you keep on your key ring if you worry about people stealing fuel or such things. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Fuel-Filler-Cover-Gas-Tank-Cap-w-Key-For-Suzuki-GSXR-1000-600-GSXR750-Hayabusa/264583557906?hash=item3d9a68b312:g:2rgAAOSw3fFeCcxK Ciao
  8. 1 point
    I think the idea of using the cap was to keep the same key locking option.
  9. 1 point
    The best solution if you are going to make a tank from scratch is to use the pump/filter/regulator and mount plate assy from one of the later v11's with the in tank pump. This keeps the regulated pressure standard and tidies up the fuel hoses around the engine. using a pump and reg assy from a Japanese bike seriously complicates matters. As for venting and cap, well there are a gazillion different aftermarket cap solutions out there quite cheap, take your pick. Same for the venting. The simplest solution is a small fitting on the front of the tank with an in line check valve to a small remote catch tank ( I used to use old small plastic pill bottles) or dump to the ground such as we used to run on race bikes a few years ago. Once again a million affordable options out there. Ciao
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    Thank you, Sir! Just trying to contribute the outstanding documentation so others can put this to good use. Here is an image of the steel flywheel with the toothed gear/"chain ring" removed: And one showing the steel flywheel in the upper right:
  12. 1 point
    Scud posted pictures of frame damage that can happen to a V11. It may be a good idea to look around the steering head as well as the gearbox top mount for cracks. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19236-parts-bike/&do=findComment&comment=207333
  13. 1 point
    Iron or wood for a straight edge not reliable. A sidecarist trick is to use long fluorescent light bulb tubes, they are perfectly straight.
  14. 1 point
    Correct, the FW is below but you can't see it.. I still have the parts if you need to see something else.
  15. 1 point
    These are great images, yet I was always confused by my misunderstandings until I got it all apart and realized my history with cars had me confused. If I am correct the image above is the front of the actual flywheel that mates to the crankshaft. The toothed ring/"chain ring" that is turned by starter is mounted behind this and is not the actual flywheel as in the cars I have been accustomed to. Perhaps fueling my confusion, the flywheel is not numbered in the parts diagram for the clutch and is not actually considered part of the "clutch" assembly : The flywheel #19 (and "chain ring" #22) is, instead, shown with the crankshaft and piston/cylinder assembly: It probably has not helped that we have so often stated concerns about failure of the "single plate clutch" when, in fact, the clutch does not fail but the aluminum flywheel that was used with it on the Rosso Mandello, Scura, and Tenni that is the singular fail point. [Just a wee stab at some clarification for those that may be wading through our discourse. ]
  16. 1 point
    A long known field expedient for a blocked V11 tank vent is to simply pry out the rubber seal (it's not exactly an "O-ring") on the bottom of the cap which, essentially causes it to vent "normally."
  17. 1 point
    As Chuck point's out Ram makes a steel single plate clutch/flywheel. Very nice, it's what I used. They made them to replace dual plate clutches in our 6 speed tranny's and the 5 speeders. They do not sell one for the 6 speed any longer but the 5 speed are still available. They stopped selling the 6 speed one because they could no longer get the clutch hub #GU01211640 from MG. The good news is the hub is already in your Tenni. Other than that and the diameter (fixable) of the actuator rod hole in the clutch's 'cup', the 6 and 5 speed kit's are the same. So this and the standard dual plate clutch gives you two options. GU01211640
  18. 1 point
    It's easy enough to change to the common dual plate clutch, although expensive. Some here have gone to the Ram single plate clutch. A search should find some info.. I'd call it a Belleville spring.
  19. 1 point
    So onto the steering stops. My preferred option was to machine off the original lower triple clamp stops and make new adjustable bolt on ones but I simply dont have access to the equipment required these days so I thought long and hard and decided on plan B for the time being at least. I tapped and drilled a hole in each stop and machines up some Ti spacers combined with button head caps. Drilling and tapping accurately the stops in situ was interesting to say the least but I surprised myself and got it right for a change. I made up a rather crude tiny 5mm thick alloy plate with an accurate hole through it to be my guide and clamped it to the face of each stop and used my die grinder with a drill chucked up to drill the holes as there was limited room for a hand drill. Used the same process to get the tap aligned for the tapping process as well. Next job is the top triple clamp off to freshen up the paint where the previous owner used to ride with a key fob flapping about damaging the paint work. Why the hell people ride with key fobs flapping around is beyond me. I've never used such a thing in 50 years of riding. Ciao
  20. 1 point
    The faring ended up breaking in half were it was already cracked which was a real bummer . I took it to a local reputable body guy , had a decal made and he matched the paint beautifully . I bought a cheap piece of weather stripping at Home Depot and surrounded the headlight without it showing . Took it out today and zero vibration . Very helpful forum here and much appreciated . The ride also took my mind off all the bad news we are presently faced with . All the best and big thanks for all the suggestions .
  21. 1 point
    here are some layers.. the clutch/flywheel were removed with 12k miles... so pretty new. on the right the ring gear with clutch plate laid on. left is flywheel with intermediate plate and spring 'disc' (not really sure what to call the spring thing) the one on top is the ring with starter teeth and the raised bits that look so bad in the pics. It's fine up close and personal.
  22. 1 point
    Hi Bob - yes we have. Looks like I've found a very nice low-mileage black Le Mans in Wisconsin, and I have a verbal agreement with the seller. So I'm all set from my end. Thanks.
  23. 1 point
    Happy Leap Day, y'all! (Photo courtesy of Hagerty Drivers Club)
  24. 1 point
    Baby's gettin' new shoes! And the wheels refurbed . . . "Needs some suspension work. Shocks, brakes, brake pads, linings, steering box, transmission, rear end. Maybe new rings. Also mufflers . . . a little wiring . . . ."
  25. 1 point
    Are we talking about cars again? Did I mention my new project? So I traded my Corvette. It had 130k miles and was worn out. I had it for 17 years so it was time to go and besides, the family didn't fit in it. I managed to trade it for a 1967 Mustang convertible. Although the Mustang is going to be a lot of work in the end I'll come out ahead. So far I've managed to pull the engine (and sold it) and get a welder. Both necessary steps. I will be replacing a bit of rusty metal but I do like learning... the hard way.
  26. 1 point
    I'm just so jealous, that's all. I mean, I have 8 cylinders, but I have to start my Sport and the car up at the same time . . .
  27. 1 point
    He and Tom would likely get along . . .
  28. 0 points
    You think that's alarming.. think about it coming loose at 6000 rpm. I wouldn't want my dangly bits around, either..
×
×
  • Create New...