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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/25/2020 in all areas

  1. Forgot this is a holiday. With all this hovering around the house, every day is like the last one. For some reason, I thought it was Saturday last Wednesday.. needless to say, the Post Office is closed..but.. I did get the Mighty Scura out and roared around a bit.
    7 points
  2. Here's the last and no doubt highly collectable run of Lucky Phil Shifter Extenders (tm) I had some thin paint on one, and googled to see if you could recoat. Naturally, some said yes, others no. I'm now in the no camp. Ended up with some roughness and a couple of spots. Thought, Oh, no problem, I'll just bead blast it and recoat.. That's some pretty tenacious stuff.. I'll go to the post office after lunch and pick up some customs declarations which I have to fill out in triplicate, then the post office lady has to fill them out in triplicate.. what's up with that? My packaging lady is off today, too..so it will probably be Wednesday when I start shipping them. If you haven't sent me an email or PM with your shipping address, you had better get on the stick.
    7 points
  3. @gstallons I'm retired now, used to work with Gas Turbines, first in maintenance then latterly doing performance and tuning. Predominently industrial units but some aero derivatives and some steam turbines as well. I was a mechanical engineer but always had an interest in electrical and instrumentation, which was handy for setting up to measure performance runs. I was nothing special and certainly don't posess much talent, to this day I shudder when I think of some of the stupid s**t I did over the years. As far as the job travelled all over doing it, it was a mixture of hands on and engineering evaluation, really enjoyed it and some fantastic times. Guys on here like @Lucky Phil, @Kiwi_Roy , the inimitable @pete roper and no doubt many more, are way more talented in there respective fields than I could ever be. The wiring on the bike was my first ever attempt at a rewire, it's Ok but not in the same league as others, especially some of the guys who worked on aircraft. Second attempt on a mate's V7 racer, that he put back to road use, was a little better. Heartly agree with @knumbnutz, using an M-Unit makes the job a lot easier, if costly. Wiring isn't hard, especially on bike's of that vintage. Break down the circuits, make a diagram of how you're going to do it. Use the diagram to evaluate current/load and size the wire to suit. Once you've did all that you get hands on and route the cables, bundling them into groups. Lastly make the terminations. For detail, the box between the M-Unit and the fuse box housed a resistor (now relocated and replaced with a metal clad unit) in place of the generator warning light. The big silver box houses the electronics for the Sasche electronic igntion and a terminal strip where I had to common up connections. I'd have did it a bit different now but it all works.............so far. Here's short video of an early start after the refurb if anybody's remotely interested, its changed a little since then, but not so much. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-G5zCu5UkEA&feature=youtu.be John
    6 points
  4. Should fit my Scura just fine then.😊 Thank you for the kind offer to reduce the price, but I insist on paying full regardless of condition. PM with shipping details to follow.
    4 points
  5. Not knowing your knowledge on V11's, and certainly not knowing all differences by head, I do feel the need to warn you about the (factory) single plate clutches. These are found on Rosso Mandello's and Scura's, maybe on others as well. [docc edit: + Tenni ] I also do not know whether this applies to all factory single clutches or a certain build time. They have a habit of desintegrating (exploding through the engine casing) due to fatique-cracking on the aluminium flywheel. Look for one to be converted to either a twin plate clutch, or a aftermarket single plate with flywheel (e.g. RAM clutch). Edit: or convert it yourself of course! When it comes to V11 versus the other Guzzi's, most definately a V11.
    3 points
  6. Paul is on the improve and now has all the various tubes removed. He is still short of lung capacity and has muscle wastage and gets fatigued easily but is improving every day. Ciao
    3 points
  7. I'm glad you laid out the process Chuck. I dont think people in these days of on line ordering and a few days later something appears in the mail box appreciate the process from drawing board to finished product. Not aimed at anyone here, thinking more of my kids and others in the general public without any technical knowledge, that cant understand why something either takes time or costs money or often both. Ciao
    2 points
  8. Thanks, but no need for beer money, Tom. All the running is figured into the price. If all I had to do was *make* them, they wouldn't cost much. Here's what happens. Order stock. An hour and a half round trip to the water jet shop to take material and a CAD file to them. Twiddle my thumbs a while. Another hour and a half round trip to pick up blanks. Set up the fixture on the cnc. Find the program and remember what tools are used. Do the machine work. File and deburr. Run them through the 20 Ton press in the little die set I made to form them. Degrease from the forming operation. Bead blast. Wipe down with solvent. Paint. Package and address. Off to the post office. Beer o'clock.
    2 points
  9. Doing the job,, and the hours,,, one thing,, But the time spent in the postoffice, hmm, worth some beermoney from me, I'm in. Thanks Chuck. Cheers tom.
    2 points
  10. All my bikes are red, even my green one.
    2 points
  11. Whoa, stop the presses. When I first ordered material, I had 12 orders. I told the water jet shop to just use up the material. They cut out 24 blanks. During the production run this weekend, my operator (me) didn't get two fully seated in the pocket before clamping them down. Those two are .020" off, and don't meet the rigorous AeroMotive inspection methods. So. I have orders for 23 this morning. (!) I'll take one off the Mighty Scura, and put one of the out of spec parts on her. That's it. No more..
    2 points
  12. I adjusted the valve to 0.15 / 0.20. Everything seems to be fine) Maybe in vain I started a discussion here, but we talked and you know that I know what TDC is
    2 points
  13. Næh, just keep it as CLEAN, will last another 100k's, AND looks special. Thanks to, to the brain who had the thoughts to figure it out ( Phil ). It really makes a big difference in shifting, period. Last IPA. Cheers tom.
    1 point
  14. I don't know whether to post my (worn out) Greenie Strut (by Roger Miller) or my Aermacchi inspired alternator cover (that everyone has been so kind and restrained to simply not comment on. ) All-y'all still just amaze me.
    1 point
  15. Collector items docc, like most things green:) Ciao
    1 point
  16. Very nice.......except for the orange valve covers:) Ciao
    1 point
  17. Interesting V11 on Trade Me I'v never seem one with Moto Gadget electrics before https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-2626287352.htm?rsqid=764dd7e326cb48c496c5fda587acb5e8-001
    1 point
  18. I'm not that familiar with ecu/efi or mechanics in general so I was reluctant to post, hoping that someone with more knowledge and insight might jump in; but I do own a CalVin and can give you some basics that may help you. The CalVin is basically a blend of 2 models, the chassis is like a California, but the engine ecu/efi is like a Breva 1100. You can apparently use guzzidiag on the CalVin in a similar fashion to the capabilities on the V11's; you don't get full access and control with it like you apparently do on a CARC bike. A factory defect that "all CalVins" ? shared, was the disintegrating fuel lines/pump assembly in the tank, one of the symptoms could be running out of gas at higher throttle levels as the fuel pressure leaks out inside the tank at higher levels, inform yourself and ensure that the fix has been done, lots of info on wildguzzi about it. Could the fuel line defect cause the pinging you are describing,,, possibly,,, I can get my CalVin to ping, if I'm a little lazy on my gearing, ie running the rpms too low, imho. They were known for lean mapping and running a bit hot, the 3rd muffler in the crossover is a bit of plug in the whole works, I'm in the process of replacing mine with an H pipe, fwiw. Dead batteries on CalVins, are usually caused by using the 55 watt driving lights, most guys swap them out for lower wattage or LED bulbs, I just make sure that I don't turn them on, I have no idea if their use could have contributed to your blown 30 amp fuse, idk. The ECU "should" be a 15RC, TPS measurements have to be taken with a voltmeter at the TPS connection, I used little copper wire jumper cables, but picked up a Caspers break out cable for future use. I think the proper TPS baseline and idle settings can be a somewhat fluid thing, but at this point it seems that a baseline setting of 150-157 mv and an idle setting of 485-500 mv should be in the right ball bark. Iirc. The consensus on the best tuneup guide seems to be this one http://www.bikeboy.org/tpssetting.html Beetle does have a map for the CalVin, and his improved tutorial on guzzidiag over on wildguzzi is the go to reference for any of this type of work, jmho. Like any tuneup on a guzzi, I like to start it with the valves adjusted and finish with the TB's or carbs sync'd. Good luck Kelly
    1 point
  19. That's too funny, but there is a lot of truth to it. I love red on a bike, as long as it doesn't clash or it's over done, fwiw. The Italian designers are pretty smart when it comes to making your heart go pitter patter. If you look at the most recent MG models, the ones that catch my eye, and most others,are the ones with the red accents; In conversation with other motorcyclists, they usually bring up the tastefully done red accents on the different mg models. I think the red accents, are a big part of the Greenies visual impact. I know the red accents on my black V11 Lemans make it much more appealing to my eye. Just for kicks, I ordered a nice set of angled valve stems for the wheels, they came in red, I couldn't resist, lol, sets off the plugs and the pork chops nicely. It not only draws your eyes into the bike, it's scientifically proven to be the fastest color ;~) To the OP, good luck and good times shopping, You'll know the bike for you when you see it Kelly
    1 point
  20. A very sobering update. With the elapsed timeframe and lingering symptoms clearly Paul has had a very close call... It’s bizarre how some people barely register they have any symptoms - and for others they have a tremendous battle to stay alive. This weird arbitrariness of reactions is what’s so unnerving with this virus. ScoMo’s push for an independent inquiry will unveil true colours if there’s any obfuscation!
    1 point
  21. There are lots of little variations in the V11 family, and everyone has their favourite. Clip-ons vs handlebars, fairings vs naked, chin pad tank vs in-tank-fuel-pump, white face clocks vs black, silver engine vs matt black vs satin black, green vs silver vs red... You are going to have to make your own choice. They are all good.
    1 point
  22. Maybe you should see the Youtube "Brasilian Grannies" before you say much about that subject .
    1 point
  23. Anyone interested in the difference externally anyway between the OEM Ohlins and the race Ohlins these are images of my 1198. FGRT803 Forks. Billet lowers and different damping adjustment,different internals. These are the real deal, albeit entry level "real deal". TTX rear shock, alloy body,high and low speed damping,mechanical preload adjuster and different internals. The silly part is that they werent that much dearer than the OEM Ohlins stuff 10 years ago. Track guys used to buy the base ( non Ohlins) model bike and buy the race spec Ohlins like these and be a couple of grand in front for a race or track bike after they sold the stock stuff.
    1 point
  24. I used an M unit on mine and will do so for every build I do. 100% more reliable than relays, fuses and electronic flashers. Also simplifies the wiring especially when using button switches Sent from my ELE-L29 using Tapatalk
    1 point
  25. Thanks for that Suggestion.I will do that.
    1 point
  26. Ohlins are really worth it if you're an advanced track day rider (which I really wouldn't recommend with a V11).
    1 point
  27. ...having owned a Scura with Ohlins, and now a Le Man's with Marzocchis, I can say they are both very good when properly set up. The Ohlins are maybe marginally more compliant over bumps while remaining firm under braking and cornering.
    1 point
  28. There's a great video on YouTube that compares an Aprilia RS V-Twin to a Rosso Corsa "it's Monica Belluci vs Sophia Loren". Very funny and well done - one of the best quotes is "the Ohlins on the Guzzi is like paying for breast implants for your granny". That said, both guys picked the Guzzi over the Aprilia in the end!
    1 point
  29. Guzzi spec Ohlins are the same quality as Ducati,Honda,Yamaha spec Ohlins. They are obviously better quality than the original equipment Guzzi suspension its just they arent really any better than the std late model sports bike suspension from the big Japanese 3 or 4. The Japanese and Ducati fitting them is more a marketing exercise than anything else as it aligns with their WSB's and as far as the V11 goes they are an upgrade. I've just mentioned in the past that the Ohlins obviously aren't bad units but forget all the hipe the Journo's and others go on about with the std spec Ohlins. If you're going to upgrade your suspension esp the shock dont bother waiting around for a good second hand Ohlins shock to appear on the market and pay a premium for it. You can buy better quality now cheaper. As far as the forks go apart from the ease of conversion from the std to Ohlins OEM for a V11 there are way,way better late model japanese oem forks around than the original oem Ohlins on the V11. Ciao
    1 point
  30. This could be a "Ted Talk" at the 16th Southern Spine Raid on tech (bourbon) night?
    1 point
  31. That would be a personal opinion . I do know I would like to have one with Ohlins suspension to see if they are all that . There is one thing I KNOW , every time I get near my bikes , I cannot see why these bikes are not in everyone's garage .
    1 point
  32. I would suggest liberally greasing that needle cage, its race, and the washer to help resist water infiltration. I ended up with a ruined bevel box/reardrive from a PO neglecting this simple task. Repeat at every tire change . . .
    1 point
  33. 03, on. Any of the Ohlins bikes. Rosso and Neros are my pick of the "best." Well sorted from the factory. Of course, the "best" is mine.
    1 point
  34. Oh, yes. That always confuses me being a boring literalist and all that..... Yeah, there is a washer that sits outboard of the needle roller bearing the spindle goes through. The race of that bearing has a hole in, seemingly to deliberately let water in! The washer doesn't have a seal to keep the water out either. Hopeless.
    1 point
  35. You are too kind docc, and you have awesome emojis! I have no excuse, I lived in Florence for 2 years where I contracted this terrible disease that makes me love everything Italian (Guzzis, Ducatis, Alfa Romeos, Sofia Loren, Prosecco...), and speak Italian reasonably well. I should cross-checked with the original Italian instructions 🤪 Anyway, filled it up to .850 and the good ol Redline is right in the middle of the glass. Glad the Pawl Spring job is done, and can't wait to ride her tomorrow!
    1 point
  36. 4corsa, You need to put more oil in your gearbox, I put 850 ml in mine. The diff holds 370 ml. Rob
    1 point
  37. Got it It was a balance problem Twinmaxx, Techmate, or electronic balancers are shit, Got Carbmate or tune and it showed they were out. Dont waste your money on electronic buy ananalog they are much more accurate in my opinion. Running like a scalded dog.
    1 point
  38. I've never heard of valve lash increasing after TDC. Yet, I have never actually checked the clearance anywhere but TDC. The only mechanical explanation I can think of is the cam is not perfectly degreed.
    1 point
  39. Thanks so much. I'm a Ben Harper fan, Sent a buddy that's a blues fanatic a thumbdrive with music on it and he hand't heard of Ben (!!). So it was great to PM him this video. I'll have to get the record.
    1 point
  40. Guess if you can and you need to do a rewire it's nice way to combine relay functions and circuit protection all into one small black box, but at a price If price/value is the only thing that drives you then it's absolutely nuts I've completed a few diagrams for people over on WG who did this to later Le Mans bikes not the Is and IIs worth a bit, but the later square heads that don't go for silly prices. I guess their owners just loved them and wanted to keep them. One guy went the whole hog with MotoGadget M-Switch (keyless igniton), switchgear, combined speedo and tacho, probably cost more than the bike's worth to purchase that lot. It looked fantastic when he finished it and personally I'm all for it, but it's horses for courses. I spent more when refurbing the Sfida than a brand new 600 sports bike probably and don't regret it for a second. When I refurbished that bike (LM 1000 running gear) Wiring looms weren't readily available and the loom was a mess, so I purchased a very early M-Unit and rewired it using Thinwall cable. The bike only ever gave me a problem when it started to run intermittanly on one cylinder due to a loose spade at a coil and I can hardly blame the M-Unit for that. The fuse box is there to group the earths and add a belt and braces to the M-Unit as I'd no clue at the time how reliable it would be, so I put in some additional circuits that I could use to bypass the M-Unit and still run the bike to get me home, never had to use it though. Never tried to wire a bike with an ECU but no reason not to, just seperate out the Acessories from the ECU circuits and it would work. Not so keen on that speedo though but heh ho, we're all different
    1 point
  41. now that is a nice upgrade.
    1 point
  42. On the 18th of April we got the good news in the German Guzzi forum that Paul recovered (after 16 days in coma).
    1 point
  43. Update on Paul's situation (April 9th 2.00 PM). Things are looking up: Paul has come through the night quietly, no fever, now calm and stable, inflammatory values slowly falling, sleep medication will decrease a little bit, he can slowly start breathing again himself ...
    1 point
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