Leaderboard

I don't really come here for politics. But I gotta say; 1) Yeah, we are a democracy, and a constitutional republic. The two are not mutually exclusive. 2)This is not in any way an isolated case. 3) So often in this country justice does not prevail. Especially if you aren't white. 4) It may not be taught, but it is clearly practiced. 5) Sorry, but the media isn't to blame. Turning them off and ignoring this problem won't fix it.

Sorry...not sure why the picture is coming out sideways..... but here’s my v11 parked out back at night in the low light.

Enjoying life, ( global warming, my calender say's june, B parrot's ) Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-A505FN via Tapatalk

I'll be watching this thread. These kind of topics easily get out of hand and please keep in mind this is an international BIKE forum with views on every side of the political spectrum (and further), so please be respectful.

Rolled 115,000 today and had to break out some of the Guzzi special tools I keep in this special toolbox Josh made for me. The only thing better than special tools is keeping them in special places and the special people they tie us to . . .

I purchased this bike 13 years ago from Ken Johnson at Atlas Cycle in Tulsa, Oklahoma just before Ken retired and sold the business. Ken told me that it had been on display at the shop for many years. The bike hadn't been licensed for the road since 1977. All of the tinware retains its original paint. The frame and other black bits were re-painted, and the rusty hardware was cadmium plated. I tore the bike down, ordered a Gliardoni cylinder set and for the next 12 years the bike was in boxes. Last year I got serious about finishing it. Today I finished the wiring. I installed one of Greg Bender's fabulous wiring harnesses. I also installed his slick "relay solution" panel. Everything worked flawlessly. This was a very rewarding project!

Thank you, Chuck. When we waded into this sort of thing before, I suggested that allowing any of us to grow stand-offish over these sorts of things will interfere with someone's ability or willingness to either help, or listen to, someone else concerning our shared passion: the Moto Guzzi V11. What a shame that would be. I respectfully submit that we, if you would please, just set this aside while we come here to our oasis of safe ground and common interests. Just asking . . .

Political threads are very divisive. I well remember when two guys that I know, like and respect.. one left and one right.. blew up Wildguzzi. That caused Luap's "no politics" policy. We, on this little V11 forum, won't cure the problems of the world.. as much as we would like to. My personal opinion is that we should just keep it V11S related.

I took your Advice and Removed my Rear Wheel assembly again to Lube my Needle Bearing and Found this. When i rotate the Needle Bearing i can feel the Notchiness so the Outer Race is no Better. My Bike,2004 V11 Lemans has around 20,000 Miles on it. I have a New Inner Race and Needle Bearing on order. I also ordered a "Blind Bearing" Puller hoping that will work. Thanks Again for your Advice. I wouldn't have known about it otherwise.

That part is correct, but not armament related

Guys that complain about service accessibility on Guzzis have never worked on airplanes. Hey, Footgoose, are you coming to Kip's Sunday?

From fading and unreliable memory.. yes, that is true. Front up and rears down. Shirley someone that *knows* will be along shortly. Welcome to the V11S forum.

wrenches to get to things no other wrench can. since there's an airplane in your avitar I'm gonna say airplane motor.... ? no wait ... P-38 gun installation!

wow Tom, Norway is looking Good about now

OK, anyone care to venture a guess on these? Sized from 5/8 to7/8" box end and one with a tapered tail.

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I ran across this one in searches related to my '97 Sport 1100i driveshaft... @Raz, when you said, "When putting the shaft together again, it's very important to line it up correctly, that is when the rear grease nipple is straight down, the two front nipples should point straight up. Failing this will cause nasty vibrations" where did you get that information? It is true that if you get it together wrong such that the u-joint yokes out of phase by even one spline it will definitely cause issues. I don't know if something changed from '96 but my '97-on Centauro/Daytona/Sport 1100i Guzzi factory service manual shows the zerks (grease nipples) all pointing in the same direction, on pg 136, diagram 15-19 when assembled on the bike, which is how I put mine back together last time I had it apart. I have now pulled it back apart to inspect/lube everything because I am getting a harmonic vibration starting at 70mph that cropped up since the last reassembly. The u-joints all appear to be fine (36k miles on the bike/driveshaft), as they should be because I keep them well greased and am very careful when washing the bike to keep water and soap away from them. Since I just now took it apart I am going to dig deeper into possible causes but had not heard that about the zerks.

Rhode Island. That’s a clean looking Greenie! A great bike to ride around New England on!

I just picked up a Tonti I have always wanted, a T3 California. I like the funky 70s look they have. It is pretty rare to find these in the USA as the California T3 model was not imported. They were common on the Continent and the UK though. This particular bike was imported by a Brit when relocating to the San Francisco area. It will require a full up restoration. Hopefully I will have it looking like this in a year or so.

That's a *nicely* done tool box.

thanks guys. I've done net searches but so far a waste of time. I will return to my bearing dealer, just down the street and ask again. He told me once, I wrote it down and promptly lost it. He was very helpful and sold me NTN brand as their high end. (the ones with the BLLC3) Made in USA. I got some SKF's from Bulgaria off ebay for my stash. Any 'western world' country is ok with me. Just not interested in countries whose factories aren't terribly interested in making a good impression on me. Yes, I know China can produce quality product, ...they will remain at the bottom of my list. I will return with what I find out

Hi guys Looking at buying a 2005 Breva 1100 and being a total Moto Guzzi virgin was hoping to find some help on here before I popped my cherry. Is there anything particular I should be looking out for when I view? The bike has 44000 on the clock, full service history( not sure whether it is dealer history, waiting for seller to come back to me about that) comes with three keys and was last serviced in November. I seem to recall reading somewhere that some engines around this age had a problem with valve gear, something to do with the rocker arm rollers disintegrating? Would this problem be applicable on this engine? Any pointers on the bike would be much appreciated.

I was reviewing my Failed Rear Wheel Bearings thread and found this post/image of how the those needle cage races can deteriorate:

I left the Cheese and illuminati a long time ago. I can read still read & watch the media and make my own decisions and judgments. <deleted the rest of it>

Verzonden vanaf mijn iPad met Tapatalk

Buddy , you ain't the only astonished man on this planet .

Thanks! Here's a close-up, I used a Shin-Yo fender rear light mounted upside down, it fits great and is very slim, but bright.

https://providence.craigslist.org/mcy/d/woonsocket-moto-guzzi-v11-sport/7118960252.html Someone better get this! You know you might love the V11 you have now but deep in your heart you really lust for a Greenie. Come join us.

I hadn't noticed before! I guess it's the last of the chin pad tanks, as it's a 2003 bike. I quite like the way it looks, slightly less "bunched up" at the front. @footgoose The exhaust hangers (and the cans) were custom made by a shop in the UK, which is why I couldn't tell what they were. I went back through the paperwork and found a receipt from Long Life Exhausts, in Bristol.

Had a little go with the seat hump off, didn't want my rucksack scraping the paint.

I would suggest liberally greasing that needle cage, its race, and the washer to help resist water infiltration. I ended up with a ruined bevel box/reardrive from a PO neglecting this simple task. Repeat at every tire change . . .

Some cracking stuff here, glorious I posted these up on the Pete's "Look what I found lying about looking sorry for itself" thread, but thought I'd put them up here too. It's not exactly a Tonti but sort of resembles one in spirit and is contemporary. First pic as it was after the refurb the solid discs warped and the pods were too long Second pic before I threw it and me into a wall, which rearranged the fairing somewhat Third is how it currently looks (never bothered replacing the fairing decals, which I should) I'm not a fan of exhaust wrap but I orignally got the pipes Cermakromed, which looked shit, then I had a rethink when I added the cast wheels, so the system went to black. Problem was because of the Cermakrome, the black never keyed properly and started to flake on the headers. By this point I was sick of the whole thing and just thought "sod it" I'll wrap them and its been that way ever since.

I've beat this next drum before, but here it comes again. On our V11, the outboard needle cage and its inner race get neglected. It is trapped in the "nose" of the reardrive next the the right arm of the swingarm. It only rotates the arc of movement of the swingarm and does not "spin." Since it not exposed when the wheel is pulled, say for a tire change or brake service, it often goes unseen until it gets ugly. If moisture and wetness and nastiness is allowed to enter there (and it will), this will ruin the sealing on the crown wheel of your reardrive. Read: Very Bad. Anytime the rear wheel comes off, for whatever reason, pull the axle far enough to service this critical part! Clean and liberally grease with waterproof grease (the needle cage, inner race, and cap washer). Every time. Here is some more support for this encouragement: L->R / lower row: > 50,000 mile unserviced/ruined race from a northern US state that ruined the reardrive. > 14,000 mile from coastal California, USA, that was rusted along with the needle cage. Even polished up with 600 grit, damage remains. > My original 111,000 mile race with obvious indentations from the needles. > New (and surprisingly smooth and shiny!) inner race. Grease that outboard reardrive junction with your swingarms, please!

...and bonus points for making the BMW GS park with the cars across the street.

Wow thanks for the write-up Scud- I like the final product a touch better than my Teo Lamers fender (pictured below), but I gotta say: installing (or removing) the TLM fender is a 4 screw, 30 second operation. p.s. I just wired my payment to Bruno for the chin spoiler...he's a great guy to work with...he's just gotta ditch the wire transfer payment B.S.!