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Finally, a clinically derived solution to properly treat That Bloody Farking Front UNI Joint on of the early ShortFrame V11 . . .

Greenie green

(Chuck) ----- ,... ,...

You need to remember that the oil temp doesn't actually need to reach 100 deg C or 212 F to evaporate off the water. Put a pot of water on the stove and watch the vapour start rising way before 100 deg. It's just that obviously 100 deg C will make it happen more quickly. It will still evaporate off at say 90 or so but it takes a lot longer. So longer runs at a lower than 100 deg oil temp will still get the job done. Ciao

Don't be. Apart from anything else it should be remembered that the original big block motor was designed to sit idling in Milan traffic in high summer with a fat Carribinieri sitting on top of it! Just about the only relevant changes to the design are the adoption of fuel injection and, with the advent of the Squarefin motor, even greater fin area. A thermostatically controlled oil cooler is a benefit but more so the faster one is travelling. At slow speed or a standstill the difference it makes is marginal. Yes, modern engines run hotter but in all my years of working on them I've never seen problems caused by overheating as long as the lubrication system is working as it should. The Nuovo Hi-Cam motors as used on the CARC series bike do have an issue due to the sump spacer gasket blowing out on the lubrication side. This results in a loss of pressure which can cause damage but such a failure usually makes itself known by the camchains starting to rattle as the hydraulic tensioner plungers are starved of oil. It has caused big end failures but is fairly rare, (Although I replace the gasket as a matter of course during rollerisation of an 8V. There is a very much superior aftermarket gasket available that completely eradicates the problem.) just something to be aware of. It is NOT something I've ever known to affect any of the 2V motors. As for heat? My Griso in high summer will heat its oil to >135ºC in traffic. It's never caused me a problem. Conversely I worry more in winter as it's damn near impossible to get the oil above 75-80ºC due to the cooling circuit not being thermostatically controlled. Yes. Try to avoid getting stuck in traffic for hours in high summer but I wouldn't die in a ditch over it. The excessive heat is far more likely to cook the phase sensor than cause metallurgical or lubrication problems.

She's a beauty, well done mate! I gotta admire you guy's with multiple bikes! I just got a good lecture from the minister of war and finance for adding to my collection of bike magazines! I don't wanna go there mentioning a second Guzzi ha ha Cheers Guzzler

just don't give examples of 'other vices' my girl's response was "so the options are motorcycles.... or strip clubs?"

Third batch, yah? First gen: zinc chromate finish, second gen: black powder coat, third gen: ?? "Collect them all! "

For the airplane lovers

I've got a bunch of personal photos from the Daytona pits from that year of the Cosworth and plenty of other bikes. All very detailed with the bodywork off etc. can't get that sort of access anymore. Ciao

Oh, I'll make them, but the water jet shop won't do less than 10. It's not worth their (or my) time to make the blanks.

This is a long sad saga on how one person can be so stupid and how you should always listen to Chuck. I purchased a low mileage Australia 98 from Japan a few years back, HiCam engine and running gear identical to a Daytona RS As Winter was coming on apart from idling the bike to check as much as I could that all was in order the bike did no running. I purchased a Caruso pump and gear set to remove the "grenade with the pin pulled" oil pump and to a lesser degree the suspect OEM Aluminuim gears for the service shaft and oil pump drive, the OEM crank gear is steel. I also installed an oil pressure gauge and a dipstick temperature gauge. There were other things done along the way but they're not relevant. Come the next summer I took it out for a ride, the first thing I noticed was the low oil pressure on cold oil at idle, around 50-52 psi. The traffic getting out of town was particularly bad, with road works, diversions, queues and snarled up traffic. Just as I got by the worst of this I seen the oil pressure light come in. Went into panic mode looked at the pressure gauge somewhere between 5-10psi. Pulled off into a convenient car park adjacent to me, killed the engine and freewheeled to a stop. Checking the temperature it was in excess of 120C. Waited for well over an hour perhaps longer until the temperature dropped to around 60C and rode home via a backroad a cab driver told me about. On the ride home I was still dropping oil pressure and rising temperature. As I recall it was about 25psi when I got home, I cannot remember the temperature. Although a backroad with less traffic I was still limited to 30mph, so at no point did I really get the chance to get up speed and some real airflow around the engine. With the low pressure at idle I was convinced that the overheating and low pressure were linked and as the pressure was low from the outset thought I'd start there. The 2V bikes I'm used to will run cold idle circa 60-65+ psi. Cutting to the chase after pulling the bike apart several times, installing several pressure gauges, the OEM pump plus another Caruso pump, running multiple experiments swapping over all sorts of parts between my Sport engine and HiCam, dimensioning several bearings and journals (but not all) and about to strip it again. Lucky Phil stepped in and started to make suggestions on checks. These came to nothing BUT give me a far greater understanding of the engine architecture and I'm very grateful to him. Without his intervention I'd probably have had the engine apart (or in a skip). I also got a friend with another HiCam engined bike to install a gauge onto his and he saw 50psi cold idle. This took another interesting turn when Phil fired his blueprinted HiCam, as he had installed a stronger relief valve spring and obtained 105psi. This told me that the pump has more than enough capacity to support engine oil requirements when escaping via the normal engine bleeds & bearings BUT with the relief closed. When Phil then installed the standard spring, his pressure dropped to 50psi cold idle, so the culprit had to be the relief partially lifting early, that Chuck had told me about so long ago. I'm hazarding an "informed" guess here, but think with the large oil feed to the heads, not present on the 2V bikes to anything like the same degree, it doesn't take much lift from the relief for the system pressure to start bleeding down. Joe Caruso has been brilliant and invaluable during all this, providing me with a lot of pump data and insight. One of the facts made me go "WIDE EYED" was the HiCam oil flow from the pump, was the highest of all the bikes of this vintage. The pump gears are longer (all the pump gear diameters are the same) and spinning faster than the V11 or the MGS-01. So that's where I am now, I'm going to install a Setrab 13 row cooler, which involves shifting some components around & will hopefully improve the heat rejection avialable from the cooler. At the moment there is 15/50 full synth in the bike and if I still encounter rising temps the next move will be to step up to a 10/60 to see if the higher viscosity at elevated temperature will sustain the oil pressure. This was also Lucky Phil's suggestion and Paul Minnaert's on a Facebook Daytona page. I've still a ways to go though to complete the cooler install & here we're still under lockdown, so sometime, hopefully sooner rather than later, I'll be able to take it out and see what happens Just thought it might bring a little insight to those of you lucky enough to posess one of these wonderful machines. I'll update this as and when but it will be slow John

SOLD. For sale is a set of Mistral Oval Titanium cans I bought several years ago off of eBay. They are in perfect condition and appear to have minimal use. I never got around to installing them and they've just been sitting in the garage. Asking $400 OBO plus actual cost of shipping, from 98006 in the USA. More pictures here

Working with a freind to close deal on an almost "new" 2002 V11 LeMans. This will join my 2003 V11 (currently in garage with broken pawl return spring) and is my 4th MG. As I understand it was a part of collector's portfolio that was auctioned off, bought by a dealer and resold. Had 3 miles on it when purchased, current owner has about 2500 miles on odo now. It is all stock except for the handle bar risers and rear rack. Excited, waiting for DMV to get title squared away, send check to owner and have shipper to pick up in next few weeks. It is essentially in new condition. (Gonna have to hide this one from the wife out in the back garage as she already put the subtle kibosh on any more motorbikes) Despite being an endless tinker/modifier, I plan to keep this one just as she is, stock.

MG Cycles sells a replacement I'm pretty sure. Ciao

I can do that. I just bought a bag of powder that color for the airplane I'm building.

Haha... Hey there docc been a while, how's life your ways

Probably much closer to the jagged edge: Guzzis .... or strip-pers.

I dunno, these Guzzis are a bit like potato chips. Tell the minister of finance you could have worse vices! Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Red might be nice.

In my sometimes awkward, or even embarrassing, position of calling back over my shoulder to other V11-ers to look out for someting-or-another, the front U-joint has remained an enigma. No doubt, the access to the nasty bugger changed with the LongFrame (for the better) in 2002. We know, now, that the spine frame, itself, made its new length at the headstock while the swingarm and frame side plates remained unchanged. The only thing I can see, or propose, is that the redesigned, "braced" rear lower subframe allows the swingarm to tip down ever so slightly more than the early un-braced subframe giving just enough clearance to get a modified grease gun contraption on (and off) the Zerk. Like many others with a ShortFrame (RedFrame or Rosso Mandello), I resigned myself to removing the swingarm every third rear tire (about 12,000 miles/20.000 km for me). It is really a straightforward prospect. With a lift and proper jacking, tie-downs, light, tools, time, and an air conditioned space with a coffee maker and a beer cooler . . . Also a great opportunity to address and handful of other important tasks: rear brake bleed (nipple up!), clutch bleed, clear the gearbox vent, inspect and rotate the swingarm bearings, inspect the torque reaction rod bushings, inspect the shock eye (lube its bushing and grease the pivot bolt), and ABOVE ALL: grease That Bloody Farking Front UNI Joint! Whether I did not get to mine often enough or it just went as long as it could before freezing in one direction, who knows. But a U-joint with one direction of motion becomes a J-joint. [cue docc, calling back over his shoulder: "Grease that bloody, farking front UNI, boys!" (even if you have to pull your swingarm . . .)]

Those could also be CNC out of aluminum or steel.. I’d go magnesium

AF1 Racing has the right side for $198. The left side isn't as bad at only $83. Plus S/H. So for the pair around $300.

neither could my mechanic

Dang! that's a lot of roach clips, Docc. Yeah, the early girls are different from the later as far as nipple access. I made up a rig for the Centauro, and easily used it on the Mighty Scura. When The Kid said he couldn't get to the one on his (now Lowryter's) greenie, I tackled it with a grin. I couldn't get to it, either.

Uh , where is the rest of the bike ?

Thank you docc Yeah, plugs out so its spinning close to idle speed. If it's anything like the old spring, the crank and idle pressure will be identical. I don't think many are that interested in the HiCam but I thought this thread might be worthwhile. The agony I've been through trying to understand this engine and the MGS (no I don't own one) changes etc have taken forever and were hard won (and I'm only in the twilight knowledge wise). I'm not that bright but luckily I lucked in when 1) Found Lucky Phil's HiCam thread 2) I'm taking advice from Phil on and off about where to go to next, thank goodness for another "superfan" of these lumps and brimming with experience and know how to boot I'm pretty sure that the pulsing you can see is the spring lifting, so it controls around 82psi but I worry about what will happen when the valve chokes, relatively few revs required for that to happen on cold oil. As I mentioned in the original post, which is a bit long, so a lot may just skim through it and not take it all in. But for anybody thinking about which way to go to eliminate the "Grenade with the pin out" pump there is a lot to chew on, bad news as it is for the cheapskates of this world. A lot think that the MGS-01/V11 chain config must be the "Dog's Doo Dahhs" because the MGS-01 is the pinnacle of these engines. It is but the thing is Guzzi made significant changes to the head design and the MGS heads don't drink oil like a Scotsman finding a pub with free beer in the desert. The pressure on these engines is governed by the relief valve (Duhh) but the kicker is that the valve has only just gotta crack a little and the pressure starts to drop through the floor. Combine that with the heads insatiable thirst for oil and signifcant cooling issues (these engines run toasty hot, well mine does) and you can be balancing on the head of a pin. I've still got a few rabbits in the hat yet, including a new oil cooler, a second oil cooler to be mounted in series to the first and finally going to a 10/60 synth, not to mention perhaps trying to source a halfway house spring. My worrry about the high cold pressure is the rear mains seal, it's not the end of the world to replace but its not a job I'd lke to be doing every time I took her out for a run. John

Yep, I just highlighted it because people seem to worry if they dont achieve 100 deg oil temp then it wont evaporate off moisture at all. Long trips with moderate oil temps will get it done or shorter runs at 110. Ciao

Virtually all water evaporates at ambient (outside) temp, to think about it. If it didn't, I doubt we'd have any clouds. Anyway, the 100ºC/212F I suggested was only for a point of reference and was 1) within the gauge's range and 2) close to the temp of oil in a running engine. Mystery solved. Water evaporates. Oil evaporates, but in-laws never seem to.

Aha! So, it's Gravensteins to Red Delicious now!

My output is pretty redundant now, as my Speedo runs off the rear disc retaining bolts, like the Speedo on a Breva. Initially, I calibrated the new Speedo to the old. Later, I used a Garmin Sat Nav. It was an eye opener how enthusiastic the OEM Speedo was.

Aye, that's the man his own self. I'll let him know that he's missed.

Ok - here you go. The gauges are different manufacturers, and the Guzzi stem is about 8" long and one for the Duc is only about 1". As you can see, there is about a 4°C difference between the two, the Guzzi gauge being the higher of the two. Makes me feel a little better.

I do miss the way @dangerous could title a thread and make the original post sing . . . I think I finally have enough experience and insight to add something to that epic thread . . .

Splitting the Extender posts to that topic . . . Stand by in the Transporter Room . . .

I'm game for two shift extension arms, one for each of the V11's. 3 down, seven to go!

Find nine others, and you are number one.

If not for the Staintunes there now, these are awfully tempting. Looks like they might be high mount or semi-high mount?

Well, crap. Just up the road too. Decent price. Why didn't you put them on? They'll sound great!

Chuck, I’m in for another run if there’s enough demand and you’re so inclined.

Having chased so many hiccup/stutter/pop/ misfire over these many years, it still surprises me when the Sport smooths out after some improvement in the charging system. Just something more to consider before the IPA runs low . . .

Great price!!! Wish I was in the market.

Here are MartyNZ's relay temperature readings in ºC. Mine are a few posts above in ºF . . .

I believe that would be @andy york's 2002 LeMans. *Somewhere* beyond 124,000 miles/ 200.000 km . . .

Celebrated twenty years with the Sport today.

You know, when they are partially (Ha!) disassembled for maintenance, it's just as easy to bolt aftermarket parts back on. After all, you can switch those OEM parts back anytime you want to - just like giving up smoking...

See the thread on shifter improvements.

A tube of grease.

i have never managed it without removing the swingarm.

Of course with your rear wheel off the bike, you're only 10-15 minutes away from having the swing arm off and the entire driveshaft removed for inspection, cleaning, and re-greasing. You can also tend to your swingarm bearings at the same time.