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Yes well it was great. One of the wires had been sitting down in the swingarm area naked to the eye. The last thing I did was put the battery frame and battery in so with this wire coming from a different direction..I am sure its the main earth to the gearbox I couldn't. I couldn't see it due to the bodywork and everything else masking my view. Once the battery frame was out I could just make out the wire so pulled at it and sure enough she is all go again. Thanks for all your help.....feeling stupid but I can confirm that there are three positive and three negative leads to the battery on the 03 model.....which I will not forget again!! Ciao Nick

You know, as much as I like the way the bridge sets off the Sport in that image, this amazing backdrop is awesome:

G'day. I don't profess to be knowledgeable about these matters but from what I understand the PC111 was the only way to get around factory tuning issues back in the day? The ECU was sealed or blocked somehow and you couldn't over-ride it's parameters so it had to be fooled by whatever method ie PC111.If you wanted to retune it. I know when I first got my bike, my mechanic was trying to get Magneti Marelli to let him access their ECU's without success so went the PC111 route. Then he was able to alter the ECU via Tunerpro ( I think ) and now with GuzziDiag ( or a combination of both ) it would appear that it's a lot better / easier to alter the ECU to suit your mods. I was also told that the PC111 has been known to cause issues on it's own? However at the end of the day I can say that my bike has run better since I got rid of the PC111 but as I have mentioned there may have been other things that may have contributed to this. Persist with it though mate as you'll love it once it's sorted. I wonder sometimes if getting these buggers sorted is a rite of passage to see if we're worthy of ownership! Cheers Guzzler

I did it on a 2001 RM with (soft) chinpad. I'll upload my pics and learnings tomorrow, now time for a beer first Edit: So yeah, I bought a SW Motech daypack and Aprilia tankring (don't know which one, but it originally fits a 2001 ETV 1000 Caponord). When installed directly, the chinpad prevents the bag from locking into place (as expected). So I made spacers (9mm) to raise the tank ring straight up. The bag fit perfectly! However the fuel filler cap would not open anymore, it hit the tank ring as it was now raised. I removed the rear spacers and cut down the front ones (made from 8x1mm alu tube) to about 5-6mm of raise, essentially putting the ring on a slight angle. I then ground down the plastic on the inside a few mm in order to let the filler cap pass, as well as some of the metal ring underneath. Keep in mind the bolt holes in the filler cap are recessed 6mm, so the actual length of my 8mm OD spacer tubes is 11-12mm on the front. Some pics:

Sound like the ignition switch contacts. Ciao

I have only theoretical knowledge of the PC's but I do know that anything that's an "add on" to an injection system is a last resort. I can understand how they came about and evolved but honestly once Guzzidia and Ducatidiag came along and esp if you started having running issues then that barnacle needs to go. My 1198 which is 11 years old has had from almost new a Michrotech ECU fitted which is laptop programmable and has switchable maps not to solve any running issues but because i wanted control over the engine operating system and I refused to use some crude basic add on that seemed more about profit than performance. Time to scrape off the barnacle and do it right. Ciao

There are three on the Mighty Scura..

$20 shipped to the lower 48. PayPal only.

Wanted 2003v11 Le Mans steering damper

G'day mate. I have a set of these Tekno bags that came with my bike. I'm not a fan of them and removed the framework from the bike.Everything was then shoved in the shed. Long story short, I'll never use them and if someone else can get some use out of them then free to a good home! A caveat though. The right side bag was ripped and the previous owner repaired the pannier with cable ties to get him where he needed to be at the time. However it's only the fabric and inside structure is intact as is all the framework.The left bag is all good! I'm not able to post any photos unfortunately ( beyond my expertise ). Jeez I suppose the other caveat would be the tyranny of distance. I'm in Victoria Oz ! Still, don't suppose it'd be that expensive to post eh. Anyways if anyone's interested let me know and after the lockdown I'll see about getting them packed up / posted. Cheers Guzzler

Uh huh.. Uh huh..

The Scura always looks fabulous, but a bit sinister, too. The dark Scura’s emerging presence upon a peaceful scene, with the juxtaposed balance of it against the white building in the background, and the shaft of light falling betwixt them, adds tension and mystery to the picture. A very nice picture!

KINDOY2, hope the fires up there are not impacting you. That’s a cool mural. Where is that? The Mistrals are awesome, btw!

And more info regarding the Hyperpro from here on the forum: Still not clear if anything extra needs to be ordered, besides the damper itself. __Jason

I do not have a Lambda sensor on the crossover which as memory serves me is F by F. W/Mistral cans and K&N filter. So ,I am Ditching the PClll and I'll continue without it. Starting over. I don't understand "closed loop" or much else about the mapping and am going to seek info on it to understand it better so I don't F#*&! anything up. Thank you all for helping. Will post progress. Lost the PCommander. Checked the cable download. Good. Still only getting to the point where the drop down asks "Ignition off for 10 sec, hit ok, turn on ignition, if you hear the fuel pump, close the program and try again. Again and again, many times. Well I continually hear the fuel pump each time. (Does the program normally keep the fuel pump switched off?) If I continue and hit ok, a timer starts on the bottom of the drop down (15 sec) for switching the ignition on. If I proceed and turn on the bike on I'll get a notification box stating ,"Switch ignition off." So its either not connecting to, or not "seeing" the ecu for some reason. I've tried mznyc's suggestion of trying over and over to no avail. At a loss as to the issue. Perhaps I'll borrow a laptop w/windows to eliminate a problem with the laptop I'm using. Doubt its that, but grasping at straws. Think I'll take it for a spin and see what's changed in the way it runs with the stock map.

Thank you!

Right, as I understand, Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT) is the correct 5-pin with both NO (Normally Open) and NC (Normally Closed) contacts. It appears the 1C7T is the correct SPDT.

Yes, the first position is 5-pin. The sealing is insignificant. Seal them yourself if you like, it's easy. When talking about so little money, why not just spend the extra few dollars and get properly rated relays? Some report they have run the cheap Chinese or even factory Siemens without issue. Yet, I have seen and watched reports of numerous relay related issues. Especially with 10amp/20amp ratings.

Given that I've owned my Sport for ~20 years now, I'm thinking of refreshing some of the original bits, such as the steering damper as well. At the moment, I'm looking at these: https://hyperpro.com/steering-dampers/ But just need to figure out which model will work for the '00 Sport. __Jason

While the 15M is primitive enough that a decent outcome can be achieved with a PCIII the RC is going to present problems because unless the lambda input is switched off it doesn't matter what you do to the fuel mapping in the closed loop area, (Constant throttle, sub-4,000rpm up to about 1/3rd throttle.) the ecu will just trim out any fuel that has been added by the PC taking you back to exactly where you started. Outside of the closed loop area the map is almost certainly rich so if it's been set up correctly or unless there have been some seriously stupid modifications the PC should be pulling fuel out at most points rather than adding it.

Cliff, My steering damper has been leaking for a long while now, to the point that it's function is basically ornamental. If you have not felt the need for one in the time you have owned your bike I would say that a steering damper is not required. Rob

Perhaps someone with factory wiring on their 2003 can confirm the number of negative terminals? I would have thought three: one for the Fuel/Ignition harness, one for the Lighting/Switching harness, and the big one to the back of the gearbox . . .

Yes a strange one. No the Gearbox ground was not removed. Checked the terminals this morning and have three connections for positive and two for the negative. Could not see any other wires missed but will pull the battery for a better look around this evening.

My redneck stiffener and load-out support. This is generally my heavy side with air compressor, jumper cables, tools, voltmeter, blah-blah-blah . . .

I'm thinking it turned out pretty okay, buddy . . .

Thanks, docc. It arrived yesterday, and I have some results to report. I compared the construction of the GEI versus the Omron, and did a vibration test. First of all, you will be happy to know that both of these relays passed the vibration test. I shook the heck out of them. Neither relay showed any contact bounce over the frequency range for equivalent RPM's all the way up to 10,000. The NC contact remained in contact throughout the test for both relays. The construction comparison is as follows: GEI | Omron Moving contact material: Silver alloy | Silver alloy NC contact material: Copper | Silver alloy NO contact material: Copper | Silver alloy Moving contact diameter: 0.085/0.083 | 0.099/0.098 inches Terminal material: Plated Brass | Plated Copper The magnetic coils appeared almost identical. The Omron coil appeared to contain more copper. Both had flyback voltage suppression resistors. The thermal conduction path for contact heat was better for the Omron, as it used heavier cross section conductors for the contacts through to the terminals, especially on the NO contact, which is used for starting. In my opinion, there is no basis for the higher contact ratings claimed by GEI. If anything, they should be lower than Omron's ratings. Omron has agreed to look into gearing up production again on an even higher rated relay for us, but I have to fill out some paperwork. I'm pretty satisfied with the current samples, but if they come up with a decent price for the 40 amp version, I would personally go for it, at least for the starter relay. More to come later. I hope to wrap this up within a week or so. It all depends on how fast Omron moves.

Still one of my favorite pictures... oh, sorry- no words. Doh

You need to pinch the rear brake hose when you are monkeying around with the pork chops ( I still don't know what I was up to ) and take off down the road . Yeehaaa ! You get two results , no rear brake n then rear brakes that won't release .......