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Replaced the mix of Chinese relays that were in the bike with new U.S. made OMRONs. The OMRON relays are no longer made, but there are still about 2500 available from onlinecomponents.com (https://www.onlinecomponents.com/omron-electronics/g8he1c7trdc12-42670683.html Thanks docc!) One thing that I discovered is a suspect socket in position #4 (counting from front to back). If I wiggle the #4 relay the fuel pump goes on and off. I suspect that this has been like this for a while, and I’ve never had a problem, but I think I’ll pull and check out the relay base.

I agree with the comments of previous contributors but, to me, the most revealing and interesting bit of information that would seem to help locate the problem is the rather odd phenomenon that the engine does shut down when you pull in the clutch and press the start button. This action energises the starter relay which, apart from putting voltage on the starter motor contactor, it turns off the voltage powering the Lights Relay, thus de-energising the lights, including brake lights, headlights etc while starting. This is fed from Fuse F5, so I would anticipate that pulling out fuse F5 would also shut down the engine when the ignition switch is off. If it doesn't then this would further help locate the cause of the problem as it would imply that there is some connectionbetween the Yellow/Black wire feeding Fuse F5 and the Orange/Blue wire from the ignition switch. So, assuming Fuse 5 does stop the engine, then the fact that pulling in the clutch and pressing the starter also allows the engine to be turned off, then this must imply that there is a spurious connection between this lighting circuit (the Red/Black wire coming out of the Lights relay) and the circuit coming out from contact 3 of the ignition switch, i.e. this fault is bypassing the ignition switch and keeping this contact 3 wire (Orange/Blue) live. You should be able to pin point it further if you see what difference having the side-stand down or not since this connects up the White wire coming out of the side-stand switch that goes all the way back to the Neutral Gear Relay. If the phenomenon occurs with the side stand down, (White wire de-energised) then the location of the spurious connection is more constrained. The Red/Black lighting wire must be spuriously powering the Orange/Blue ignition switch contact 3 wire. These wires do not share the 5-way AMP connector to the RH handlebar controls and front brake so it cannot really occur there. but both wires do share wiring to the the large 12-way Amp connector at the front of the bike powering all the warning lights and instruments. Try putting the headlight on main beam and testing if this allows the ignition switch to stop the engine. If it does, it implies that the spurious fault is on the Lo beam part of the wiring, Green/Grey, that also goes to the 12-way AMP connector. If it doesn't change anything and the engine keeps running then it would imply that the spurious connection is between the Red/Black wire going to the 12-way connector and the Orange/Blue wire also going to the connector. Both these wires come from relays at the rear of the bike so, as previous people have suggested, it could be some kind of wiring harness fault, possibly caused by an overheated wire (probably either the live or neutral wires coming out of the regulator. To my mind having two parallel 15A wires to make up the 30A generator capacity is a fundamental electrical design flaw. It obviously works if the wires correctly share the current but we know that poor charging can often be caused by poor contacts often in the 4-way connector that isn't sealed because it is a spade type (Amp connectors won't take the amount of current). It is at the front of the bike, near the oil cooler and can easily get a bit of corrosion due to water ingress (and salt if you live in the UK and use the bike in the winter). This will cause slightly higher and different contact resistances, the current will not be shared evenly, potentially being taken by only one wire if the contact resistance becomes significant. You won't know its happening but the wire will be overloaded, particularly soon after start-up when recharging currents are 22-25A. This could melt the insulation and cause a faults and spurious connections in other wires. So, if you are lucky you will find the spurious connection at either the 12-way Amp connector at the front end, or at the wiring to the relays, but it may be in the harness in between. At least you know which wires are involved. And this leads me to a suggestion to avoid stripping out the harness. If you can isolate the exact wires that are shorting out by disconnecting them at both ends but still finding that they are connected inside the harness, then keep them disconnected and run a pair of parallel wire between the ends to take their place. You should try disconnecting the 12-way connector and seeing whether your non-stopping problem disappears. If it does then the fault is on the lighting, warning light, instrument side of this connector but if the problem persists then the fault is definitely on the feed-in side of the AMP connector. Also see if de-energising the Lo beam wire makes a difference. Using careful logic is the best way to identify the problem. I hope this is helpful and shows that you should be able to avoid stripping the harness.

The first video docc has subtitles. I hate to say it but it's rather neat and well thought out and engineered. Not made to negotiate corners of course but then neither is a Harley. Ciao

My red frame and black frame have 5 connectors at the # 1 position . Check underneath the block and see if the wire has dropped out and is touching something .

You may have a problem with the wiring connectors in each socket . You should remove each connector and tighten each one .

Much better than the Boss Hoss that I made the mistake of paying ten dollars to demo at Americade many years ago. This is wild but not a caricature of a motorcycle.

Or perhaps, when you investigate the relay bases to perform the Kiwi_Roy tightening procedure, you will find someone has pulled that 5th connector from Relay#1 and wired it hot to where it powers Relay#2. Essentially eliminating the weak NC contact/ 5th pin of Relay#1, but leaves all of that load (especially the headlight) on while cranking.

Let me check both bikes and get back to you .

Your headlight flickers ? Look at your wiring diagram . It shouldn't . You may have a problem with one or more relays ( provided the wiring is good ) and you need to replace the headlight relay or all of them w/the Omron relays .

Thanks very much for that info! My light flickers a little while cranking, but it stays on.

How odd! Relay#1 is the Start Relay. When the NO (Normally Open) contact is pulled in with the Start Button, power is sent to the Starter Solenoid. When the contact flips back to the NC (Normally Closed/ "5th") contact, power is directed to Relay #2 for headlights/brake(stop) light/tachometer/warning indicator lights/voltage reference. This effectively defeats all of that power draw during cranking. Does your headlight go out while cranking?

I'd confirm that your diagnosis about #4 socket is correct given my Greenie experience. Wiggle it, spray some contact cleaner, play musical chairs with the relays. If you're religious, prayer might work.

As Chuck Berry would say, I got motor-vated thinking about the big bolt. I remember that I just got an electric impact wrench and a bunch of BIG sockets. So I took out the 24 MM socket, it is a direct fit and has clearance. I got my 1/2 in torque wrench out (no, not the impact wrench) and set it on 50 and went to work on it while the bike was on the side stand. The bolt kept turning and turning, tighter and tighter, until I chickened out. Close enough. At least much tighter than it was. I just couldn't bear having something *snap* and be buried under a 550 lb green lump.

None of the in tank electronics "spark". If they do, that's badness. And yes, the pump motor is brushless. Edit - I don't think the pump is brushless in early 2000's. The brushless motors are becoming more common. I know this because my company build the controller chips used for these motors. (A good business for us!). It's the concentration of the fuel vapor that prevents explosions. From Google - "The reason electric, tank- mounted fuel pumps do not cause explosions is that the concentration of fuel vapors is too high to allow an explosive mixture. The volatile (which in this context refers to a tendency to evaporate) nature of gasoline causes fuel vapors to take up any empty space as the fuel tank is emptied. Even if you completely empty a tank, open its access ports, and allow it to sit open, the concentration of vapors INSIDE the tank will still be too high to explode. Now, OUTSIDE the tank is a different story, and for this reason, one must use caution when performing any sort of repair or maintenance to a fuel tank, regardless of the type of pump used on the vehicle."

I don,t have any good pictures of My R.Corsa with the DyMag Magnesium wheels on her at the moment but this is one of her from a couple years ago when she was a little dusty ..still looks the same except cleaner and with the oem rear fender back on now.

This is standard on all 5th gears. It is not dangerous - just put something in your ears. But the fix is to renew both 5th gears to get rid of the "high" noice. Rolf

But I don’t hope I have to take the entire wiring harnas apart to look for damage like this. And certainly not because there is no sign of wire harness damage (except for the strange behaviour).

I found this in "Post a pic of your V11", but it does not show the wheels well and has a funky aspect ratio . . @Mikko, happy to hear all the parts are available to mount the wheel. Now to hunt up the front!

I don't know if these are Aluminum or Magnesium. Can't find anything saying what it is. I've read about the MGS-01 being equipped with both. It is very light. @docc The drive hub is still available and the rubbers/bolts too. When i went to visit Joe in Chicago i showed him the parts diagram and he wasn't worried at all. Said they could machine whatever we needed. That being said, i think i will still order up everything i can in order to keep the custom machine work to a minimum. I would rather spend those machining dollars on other things....like a fabricated swingarm! @ScuRoo Its pretty even, maybe the angle of pictures don't show it. I am going to have Joe cut this open and we are going to rebuild it. I'm thinking of an X pipe inside the box made with perforated titanium tubing and use the special packing TiCon Industries uses for their mufflers. Still up in the air about it. It weighs a ton compared to my Titanium mufflers. It's stamped "euro-3" so i'm figuring that box must be stuffed with sound deadening. Plus I'd like dual outlets. maybe flush with the body..like the "sharkfin" style I've seen.

A thought occurred to me, has this bike suffered from a meltdown in the wiring, any burnt ground wires around the ECU or the ground wire from the Voltage regulator to battery negative? Its really difficult to troubleshoot remotely when you are not sure exactly what version of the wiring diagram you have.

Relays #2 and #3 are the same (Siemens-A1001-A402). I can exchange them, and nothing changes. If the ignition switch is on, the engine keeps on running, if the ignition switch is off and i pull #1,#2 or #3 the electrical system shutsdown.

Thanks Guzzler. I just looked at the old bracket, and used that as a copy, minor adjustments. Works well and easyly made in an afternoon, for free. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-A505FN via Tapatalk

Rear wheel finally showed up!

Humm haven't been here in a while, echo Phil's post and agree If it's a 5 speeder I don't know they type of box installed to that particular model. The Sportis and HiCams had 5 speeders with the 3 dog clutch as opposed to the older 5 dog and they are pretty harsh on their internals. I thought all the V11s were 6 speeders shows what I know If it's strraight cut then it would probably whine in all gears, but 5th is a known weak link in the 3 dog 5 speed boxes (if it is such a thing) and is usually first to go. The first signs are it whines louder than the other gears. The usual remedy is to put in a helical gear from a bike that's being parted out. My guess is though by the time the V11s were being made all the boxes would have been helical. If it's a 5 speeder then stripping the box is a lot simpler than many imagine, many moons back I did a write up when stripping down an LM 1000 box if you've never been there or a little apprehensive of taking it apart http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzitech.dk/gb_en_complex-technical_gearbox-rebuilding-pictures.htm Good God was it nearlly 10 years since I wrote that Jeez!!

https://www.af1racing.com/store/ProdImages/st3/2003motoguzziacccat.pdf Dang.....wish They still offered this stuff.. and i don't see risers in this catalog.

Actually, I just put all new OMRON’s in today. This was how I noticed the lack of the 5th connector in socket #1. The headlight flickers, or perhaps it’s more of a quick dimming action than a full off-on flicker, when the starter first cranks. This is a quick event as the bike starts right up. The light stays on, though. Perhaps Luigi had a second glass of Chianti with lunch the day that he wired up my bike.

Rally has been cancelled for this year due to a restriction of gatherings of no more that 100 people under Covid level 2 here in NZ. Bugger.