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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/02/2021 in all areas

  1. SOLD Moto Guzzi V11 Greenie Valve Rocker box covers plus Alternator Cover. New old stock.I would prefer local pickup only, if possible. The Part numbers are 03.02.35.30 and 03001000 These were purchased in 2008 as reserve stock for my Greenie and dry stored till I have just discovered them when we were packing to move house. They are brand new, never been on a bike. I will post domestically and overseas, I will only charge postage at what it costs me. Price reduced from AUD $250 to AUD $120 plus postage Australian $ are like 2/3 of REAL $ ! Get in before EBay does its nasty work ! [http://rover] Sent from my CPH1831 using Tapatalk
    2 points
  2. I used Kapci paint, code 601 Verd metallic, with white base paint first. Cheers tom.
    2 points
  3. Hmm. Sounds slightly less precise with some of the techniques and adjectives used, but given that it’s to match a 20+ yr old faded color, this could be good. since the tank is the overwhelming majority of the visible paint color that’s seen, I should have a little more leeway, vs trying to find something for touch up. But of course if the touch up happens to be really dialed in, I could avoid the repaint, which would be a home run, but I’m not holding my breath. My personal spray technique and skills would be fine for any typical white paint, and maybe an “ER4” single color, but multi layered paints mean I’d likely want to farm-out the work to someone more gifted and/or experienced. But damn good intel... thank u!
    2 points
  4. Prior owner likely. Mine came off with ease but was thinking I might need some Loctite to keep the cover on in fear of overtorquing. Didn't need it though. Looks good, right? 😉
    2 points
  5. Docc, you note the green paint color match here.... I’m still poking around searching the forum, but is there knowledge on a good paint code option to match the green? Trying to figure out how hard it will be to repaint just the tank on a greenie.
    2 points
  6. Installed - I think it goes well with the Ghezzi Brian cf belly pan. Also, I'm offering a $5,000 reward for information leading to the apprehension of the %[emoji2400]@!! Individual who applied red Loctite to one of the 4 screws. 2 hours to finally remove with an impact driver that was askew by a good 15° due to the wheel in the way. Had to use the impact driver for more than half the length of the screw!
    2 points
  7. Anyone used the newer pro version of rever? Combo of offline maps, butler map views, easier saved routes, and then some things which may or may not prove to be of value (3D views, etc), seems it might stand out from the crowd of not-so-great map apps. I hate recurring charges, but $4/mo can be palatable for the right thing... I’ll probably try this pro version on the free trial.
    1 point
  8. Thank you all for the information. I believe my V11 can shift better than it currently does without the need for a careful toe preload. More to follow!
    1 point
  9. " I can't be certain . . . . . . . . . . . . about '75."
    1 point
  10. here's an old thread about green. photos aren't convincing but he sounds convinced. definitely a lead to follow though. please post any results. I'm looking for a green bike and will likely need the same. this makes complete sense as Guzzi already had the silver pieces
    1 point
  11. Hence, getting a new sender on my EV.
    1 point
  12. I can't be certain but am pretty sure I saw George with Zappa about '75. Frank's bands were talented and very tight. There's something really pure about piano, bass and drum trio. I like trios whether they're a rock power trio or an acoustic jazz combo. Three players allow everyone to stretch their talent and each get a lead in the show and they know each other so well to be really tight at the same time. With three players, no one can hide. You gotta be good.
    1 point
  13. That is a classy look! The only cf (CFRP) on my Sport are the Moto Guzzi "For Off Road Only" exhaust canisters. In 2000, I was thinking carbon fiber (CFRP) was still pretty cutting edge at that time. Probably not, though. I also remember the assertion about electrolytic activity in contact with aluminum. Has anyone actually seen this? Should something like the alternator cover be have a good paint layer on the surface of the timing chest where the contact is? "The carbon fibers can cause galvanic corrosion when CRP parts are attached to aluminum." (Wiki CFRP) [edit: Wait, there is that plastic spacer under the alt cover. So, not contact there.]
    1 point
  14. Generally, it is known as "Legnano Green." It has been used on things other than Moto Guzzi (ie:bicycles). Even the different Guzzi do not look exactly the same (V7 Telaio Rosso vs V11 Sport). We have had a couple members post formulae to achieve the V11 color. Let me see if I can shake down any links . . . edit: here's one at guzzitech from a web search referring to a Nissan paint: https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/cracked-v7-café-classic-paint-code.6524/ This from Bikecolours in UK. He states it is available in aerosol: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-STAGE-MOTO-GUZZI-TOUCH-UP-PAINT-KIT-V11-SPORT-INJECTION-1997-2003-LIME-GREEN/261274617752?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
    1 point
  15. I think I've now about reached the end of this but wanted to post some more prelim data for now and some more test results tomorrow. Who'd have thought I could spin out a 4 page thread on a bloody spring. So here's what I've found as a rough guide regarding shimming the OEM valve with the Griso spring. Below are 2 results, the first colum is static test data. In other words putting the valve in an oil tester or pumping up the valve on oil, if you use air the results will be different, probably lower from what I saw. I gave up on using air as a medium the leakage was so bad I couldn't obtain repeatable results. The oil I was using was a 15-50 full synth room temp 18-20C, cold oil for both the static test and the crank test. When static testing the valve just starts to crack then around 5psi later is well off the seat so it's difficult to pin down an exact lift value, but easy to get a ballpark within 5psi for when the valve lifts All results psi, shim numbers in mm. On all of these there was no crush washer or shim on the spring retaining nut on the PRV top, some have these installed others not. IMHO they serve no purpose, however, if they are in place they will subtract from the shim value as the nut will not penetrate as deeply into the valve body and compress the spring Shim Static Oil Pressure None 80-85 68 1.5 105-110 82 3 125-130 95 I think the results were pretty well linear in behaviour, so as a "Rule of thumb" for every 1mm of shim compressing the spring you'll see 14psi increase in static lift pressure and approximately 9psi on the oil pressure. Can only base this on my own anectodal evidence, but knowing that no shim gave me 68 and 3mm shim gave me 95, a 27psi difference, 1mm equated to 9psi. 1.5mm should give me pressure in the bike of somewhere around 80-83psi. When I crank tested it was somewhere between 80-82psi. If you have a facilities to static test by all means do it, you may get different numbers to me, but be aware that the static lift values are higher than what you'll see inside the engine. The figures here are just what I saw and posted up as a rough guide and starter for anybody mad enough to try it
    1 point
  16. 2004 Ballabio, Red. ZGUKTCO234M111219. 483 miles. Yes, 4-8-3. I'm the original owner. This bike was on display at a Cagiva Store @ Marshall Field's flagship on State St in Chicago in 2004. I bought it from Cagiva in late 2004 with 5.3 miles. Came with factory-issued La Franconi 'Carbon Fiber' slip-ons as well as the stock. Clearly, AC stored it because of provenance (with other bikes bought in crates from factories). Ride it just enough (varied rpms). Changed battery once despite always trickle charged. Changed all oils once and front brake pads (caliper weeped into). Bled brakes front same time. Replaced Brembo o-ring. Original Metzeler M1s still have no dry rot. Rode it today. Expect break in circa 2036.
    1 point
  17. Certainly worth inspecting, adjusting, and perhaps tightening the external shift mechanism. Make sure the two "arms" are parallel with one another. Sometimes the pivot bolt benefits from a shim to reduce slop. Even after performing (most) of Lucky Phil's excellent Shift Improvement, I still preload the lever and take up the clutch play to get best shifts.
    1 point
  18. Then add a Gambalunga badge from @sp838 ? https://www.shapeways.com/product/ABDSPQG9A/gambalunga-badges-both-no-steel?optionId=23113230&li=shopshttps://www.shapeways.com/product/ABDSPQG9A/gambalunga-badges-both-no-steel?optionId=23113230&li=shops [sp838 offers "DeTomaso" eagles, too. Yet the V11 was built after the DeTomaso era while the original V11 Sport was "drawn after the Gambalunghino" according to the designer: Luciano Marabese. This Gambalunga/Gambalunghino emblem (c. 1949) will always be proper for the Marabese designed V11 Sport.]
    1 point
  19. Wow, what a delight! That is awesome. Makes me feel better about what my own bass has evolved into. Sheehan's bass, "The Wife," totally reminds me of my Sport. Might even be some hidden "hotel room repairs" . . .
    1 point
  20. 2000-Moto-Guzzi-V11-SPORT-Motorcycles-For-Sale-2975 by swooshdave, on Flickr
    1 point
  21. Nice catch! It was the right bulb, before it got smashed and shorted out the contacts. Once I dug all the debris out of the socket everything was fine. Now I just have to replace the thermistor.
    1 point
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