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My 2001 Le Mans

Thank you! I don't know exactly because the job was done by my mechanic, but i believe he used the original parts except the turn signal brackets, which he built by hand; i bought the windshield on the german site Steine Dinse

Best idea if you want to get an idea how it all works is to look at the parts diagrams. Oh, and if you wanted to see a 1400 Griso? Here's Mark's bike with the first 1400 motor I built. Compare it to the other two in the next pic and you'll see it's indistinguishable.

I think the "boss" or reinforcement is on all of them. So they can be drilled and safely used. (at least the later ones) I will check. I'm sure the '03 has them.

Well It'll be easy for me as I raise a glass of red to something or someone almost every hour according to my wife:) Ciao

Exactly Pete. Brad Black did the base map for my bike with a Centy map from a 16M to a base 15M V11 map. It was OKish when at operating temp but hard to start and warm up and a few other issues. I was subsequently given 4 pretty much std Centy .bin files from Karsten in Germany and Will Creedon in the states and I could see why. Brad had simply transposed the fuel, ignition and offset maps straight to the std base V11 maps but left the engine temp and OAT break points as per the std V11 map. This didn't work. The Daytona/Centy engine requires totally different fuel and ignition trimming during the warmup process and also during cranking the fuel requirements are very different. So with Tunerpro and Guzzidiag I changed all these break points to make the bike easy to start and carburate nicely esp during warm up. It starts instantly now and idles at 1200 rpm all the way to 90 deg C engine temp. I also adjusted the map to cure the slight popping on the overrun at 3000rpm plus a few other tweaks. So accessible, so good so easy. I appreciate that at one point in time the Powercommander system was all that was available along with those horrid Lambda trimmer things but Guzzidiag and Tunerpro made them all obsolete as did Ducatidiag and several others. Ciao

Yes more pictures! Welcome. Looks like you've succeeded in replicating the Tenni green. I like the early LeMans fairing too. I'm working on that one myself. It seems one must push the headlight bucket out a bit to get it to fit properly. OR have you got that mounted to a LeMans fixed fairing bracket??

I think you are confusing remapping with re-setting the self learning parameters, (Fuel trims.) on a machine with closed loop capability. If the system incorporates a narrow band lambda sensor then, at certain throttle openings and engine speeds, the ecu will crudely change the fuel delivery to try and achieve whatever its target AFR is. If you re-set the self learning parameters, (Clear the trims.) it takes the fuel settings back to a factory baseline and from here, (Unless you turn off the lambda input.) it will start to re-trim the fuel again until it achieves that target AFR in the closed loop area. This is one of those things that causes people to think, wrongly, that "Modern engines are mapped up lean to meet emissions regulations." And generally results in many 'Tuners' turning off the lambda input and flinging more fuel at the map. In fact the opposite is generally true. Most of the base maps are almost universally rich and depend on the lambda input pulling fuel out of the map in the closed loop area, (Hence the term 'Trimming' one assumes?). If the lambda input is turned off the base map tends to be overly rich all the way through and it is this that foxes many into believing that the bike is now running optimally and it's just the evil government trying to destroy people's fun. In fact the bike will still be running sub optimally but the last thing you will generally want to do is add MORE fuel. Using wide band sensors and decent logging equipment it is possible to record exactly what is happening to the AFR at all engine speeds and loadings and build a map to suit. Also, unlike a PC, using a programme like Tunerpro allows you access to a lot more than simple fuel and spark, there are numerous correction tables that allow changes to be made to optimise performance in areas like engine temperature, air pressure, air temperature etc. My knowledge and understanding is very basic. I'm lucky enough to know people a lot more talented than I who I can glean assistance from when I need to. The most important thing is not to fall into the trap of believing the old wives tales about mixtures being lean and just flinging more fuel at the map. Do that and you simply end up with a soot-spewing overfuelling munter that will wear itself out in double-quick time.

Whilst of limited interest to most here I thought I'd gauge whether anybody would be interested in a documentary of a single spark 1400 Nuovo Hi-Cam build? I've just acquired a 'Repairable write off' Griso that I'm going to use as a test platform for final development, (I've already built two 1400 single sparkers.). I'm not willing to have my old warhorse off the road while playing silly-buggers with the motor so the idea is I do the build, iron out any problems, then fling the final product in the 'Green Horror'. This will be my swansong. I hope to be retired within a year.

I bought a used triple clamp and drilled it, as you say there is a raised boss on the undersurface obviously there for that purpose. Sadly not wide enough to allow fitting of rubber bushes. I used an old set of clamps from a Honda CB00, remember them?

Well if you can work a computer at a basic level you can work Tunerpro and Guzzitech. The 15M ecu is 20 year old technology. I'm 62 and learned it from scratch. The same way people tuned carburated engines, except easier AND you can simply load the many, many free maps other people have developed over the last 20 years for FREE in 30 seconds. All those map resources can be downloaded on the web or emailed to you. Ludditeism is no excuse, if you want to get an efi bike running well you need to commit to learning some very basic computer skills. Tuning on the dyno is the ultimate to get the last 5% or so but even then you tweak the maps based on how it actually feels to ride. The dyno sheet doesn't always represent what actually feels best on the road at normal speeds and throttle inputs which is where you spend 99% of your riding time. Ciao

Pete and Phil - thanks for taking so much time to reply and explain. Unfortunately you are making the assumption that I am into 'tech'! This is all right over my head I'm afraid, but interesting nevertheless. Just out of interest, I don't see how you can possibly get the best out of any sort of remap unless it is done in conjunction with a rolling road which produces real performance data?

Don't get me started on sensor foolers! You'll be wiping spittle off the inside of your device or desktop screen for a week!😂

If you just put a 1400 motor in it won't run due to the different phase sensor/phonic wheel set up. You'd also end up with the weedy little 1400 ports in the heads and spare plugs and plug tunnels necessitating the use of the ugly 1400 rocker covers which on the 1400 are hidden by the vast rocker cover 'Covers'. While some people are saying that the 1400 combustion chamber in the head is larger I don't think it is appreciably. The added. Volume to drop the CR, or keep it acceptable, is done by the machining of the pistons. Cant remember offhand how much bigger the bore is but its substantially larger. The biggest difficulty though is the cooling circuits. The 1200 simply uses a series of cross drilling's around the exhaust valve seats to channel oil to take heat away and the feed goes in the inner side of the head. On the 1400 there are substantial galleries cast into the head similar to the water galleries in a conventional liquid cooled engine. The oil is delivered to a gallery in the barrel and then circulates through those chambers in the head to remove heat and the drain and return system is completely different to the 1200 motor.

Okla Campout, usually Columbus Day weekend. Talihina OK. Bigfoot country, Talimena Scenic Dr. I wish that Guzzi had a European Delivery Program and a bike worth getting there.

Now that's an appropriate setting & company to be in.

Ops.. sorry

An unnecessary and overly complicated one. Ciao

You're hearing/remembering wrong. Complete rubbish Ciao

Not V11... but at least they are spine frames!

Eewww, that's ugly. That's *not* an airworthy connection.