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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/08/2021 in all areas

  1. "What? No, I don't smell anything"
    2 points
  2. Not mine, but might be of some use to a Scura or Tenni owner who wants to replace the original clutch and flywheel. Seems cheap too. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
    1 point
  3. And it's gone - first guy to see it, bought it on the spot. Been nice chatting with you all over the last few years. Look for me and the red car at the Vanilla Bean in Pomfret CT on Sunday mornings. I'll be at the Guzzi table...as an alumnus :-) VT4L
    1 point
  4. It's the £150 one that I meant. The expensive stuff is there. I priced up new parts when I needed to replace mine and it was close to £2000. The flywheel alone was close to £1000 IIRC. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
    1 point
  5. And some shops are no better. I had a service done on a Kwaka, riding home up the freeway I realised my leg was wet. Pulled over and found they'd just stuck the fuel line back on the tap without a clip. Still on enough to run the bike somehow, but petrol pissing down my leg. I'd have done a better job myself...apprentices, nnnngh. No argument here though. Squids don't give a rat's arse about ANYTHING.
    1 point
  6. I see this one which needs springs (they're cheap), and I'm not seeing the intermediate plate in the images (also cheap to replace). No declaration on mileage, but priced right (150£/$210US): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Moto-Guzzi-V11-2002-On-Clutch-Assembly/353110155146?hash=item5237015f8a:g:7KwAAOSwagpgRfaq And this one that is in California(looks to be in great condition). I have the reardrive from this 14,000 mile Sport bike (also in great condition): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Moto-Guzzi-V11-2000-Sport-Fly-Wheel-and-Clutch-Assembly/163743517580?hash=item261fdfcb8c:g:ilUAAOSwIipdCtQY FWIW, I recall this US seller was in the middle of moving his household and I know one member who didn't get his parts from him. I would confirm availability before ordering.
    1 point
  7. so now I'm thinking about my 545's - 3 of them. I know one is old because it was in the bike for a long time and when it started getting weak I bought a new one. BEFORE I knew of Docc's expert treatise on conditioning. I got another one a few years ago in my "parts bike". I put the new one in the Tenni and proceeded to condition the others. I just now ran out to the shop and checked the 2 on the bench. Not been charged in 5 months. One at 12.56 and one at 12.38. (I'll bring them back to full tomorrow) My curiosity peaked when I see "2019" tags on both - can't be true. Odyssey site revealed no info on the build dates... but this link did https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=73563 the first post decodes the build dates I guess they use them in aircraft too! my serial #'s (the small sticker with the bar code) reveal one of them built 5/17 and shipped 10/17 the other built 3/10 and shipped 5/10 ............ I conditioned them 2+ years ago and charged them once last fall. I've always used a 30+ year old cheap charger with a 6a manual mode which I watch closely. I would not be afraid to use either in one of my bikes. The Sport came with a Shorai and after sitting cold for 5 months still shows 13.45v My XS650 with the same Shorai sat cold for about 7 months and shows 13.38v Odyssey batteries are not quirky, ... Docc is quirky... maybe ...by figuring out, through long study, how to keep the 545 at an optimal operating level for as long as possible. Thanks Docc I'll bet one of those extra 545's will outlast the Shorai
    1 point
  8. I only bought it for the Manual ability. I have "nanny" chargers that won't charge a battery if it's below about 10.5 volts which are annoying. Use this one on "manual" to get them back up to a decent state of charge then switch it to "auto" seems to work OK. Not sure about how or if the Lithium setting works on this charger as they require a constant amperage and variable voltage. Ciao
    1 point
  9. I cannot be surprised. My Sport had to come off the lift (her foot-lighted plinth/dais) while the sorry, old Honda GB500 Tourist Trophy gets all the attention. SHE (my Sport) almost instantly started spilling fork oil as never before. Then gearoil . . . "An Italian woman will stab you for no reason at all." -unattributed Henri Metisse, 1916
    1 point
  10. Such (should be obvious, but?) square peg/round hole wisdom. It is why I ask before dragging my hairy knuckles into these sorts of things . . .
    1 point
  11. Often especially for the round wire a small jewellers screwdriver is best or a pick with a similar flat end. A round pick on a round wire end doesn't work well although a pick or driver with a flat end on a round wire works much better. Ciao
    1 point
  12. Tires. You never know when if one is defective until you ride or drive it. I've gotten defective or disappointing tires from every tire manufacturer at one time or another.
    1 point
  13. Ok, gotta get me some o'them. I have a selection of dental picks, but they are very hard and rather brittle.
    1 point
  14. The OTC 7103 set is probably the best to use .
    1 point
  15. Uhhh , you have about $100 worth of picks and use caution & hope for the best ! Worst of all , make sure not to gouge the bore of the fork tube .
    1 point
  16. Use a small pick (preferably brass) to pull the end of the wire out of the groove and with these you can carefully allow them to unwind out of the groove. Best if you can grab the end with a pair of needle nose pliers and guide it out as often the ends are just cut off and have a sharp edge which can scratch the alloy housing if not held clear. Or you can just slip a feeler gauge in there on the end to protect the housing as you uncoil it out of the groove. Hold the leg securely though and initially stick some masking tape over half the opening in case the initial action flicks it out. If its a flat section clip its a lot more difficult. Once you have one end out of the groove use a small jewellers drive and some protection on the alloy to gradually extract it . Bit like removing a tire, compress, wedge, compress, wedge. Usually by the time its half way out it can be released. Or once one end is out you can sometimes grab it with needle nose pliers and pull the end enough to get the ring to compress and feed it out. It has to be a fairly weak clip for this though. Ciao
    1 point
  17. A friend put a pair on his FJR. It was on my recommendation since I love them on my LeMans. I have the first gen and he got the new style. He complained about a slight wobble. He went back to the installer and they rebalanced but it did not help. They then exchanged them for a pair of the earlier style and the issue was solved.
    1 point
  18. You know how the YouTube Rabbit Hole goes. You start searching videos on replacing fork seals and removing snap rings and click on something diversionary, but interesting. Then you see your bass on stage with a Gold Top Les Paul. And Beth Hart. "Whole Lotta Love!" - indeed....
    1 point
  19. @chamberlin! Glad to see you!!!! You're shopping???
    1 point
  20. Really, you haven't spent much time in motorcycle repair shops obviously. Do you think the fool riding his bike around in shorts, singlet and thongs has any better idea of mechanical maintenance than safety awareness? Some of the mechanical sights I have seen. Ciao
    1 point
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