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Am guessing that the slave might be the weak link. Either quickly in my case, or over time as in yours, air is seeping in. First time in history that something leaks into a Guzzi.

Well it ended up being the TPS. The new one came in, installed it, and went for a spin. It was wonderful! The sputtering/burping/hiccuping has been eliminated and the bike did great on a 20 mile loop under varied loads and speeds. Time to enjoy the bike!

@KINDOY2 shared this with me when he noticed the bassman plays a Fender so like my new one. Thanks, man!

The seals in the MC can go bad when sitting. When you grab the lever the seal doesn't and the lever just pulls back without pressurizing the rest of the system. A few of my race bikes do this when getting pulled out. Sometimes a good flush will clear debris that caused it and sometimes the MC needs new seals to fix.

in 2000 my gf at the time and I were attending the Stugis motorcycle rally. We walked in to a bar on main street and sat for a beer. this guy comes out and starts to play. within a minute my gf looks at me and says "I think we're witnessing greatness" He looked to be maybe 22. We did not leave the place. We showed up to the same place the same night the following year.. and there he was again. Good times. There's not much out there on him. What there is is kind of sad. He went the way of so many beautiful artists. His recorded stuff is still great Funny story.. I asked his girlfriend how many albums he had, I wanted to buy some. She said "I don't know maybe 50 or so?" I said .. I mean how many different ones has he made? she said "oh, one or two I think" I bought 'em.

Great stuff. Now I have to throw down some Stevie Ray Vaughan! Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

I did get the clutch partially working. I opened the bleeder valve and let out a little fluid, but couldn’t properly bleed it, as I didn’t have any hose. I squeezed the lever about 100 times to build up pressure, which seem to work (or it made my hand tired). I’ll do a proper bleed tomorrow. Thank you for all your help.

Walter Trout is up there. Had to re-learn guitar after an almost failed liver transplant. And a duo with his son Jonathan Trout. Dad taught him well.

Condolences to Royal Family and our British friends. As an American, I've gotten some appreciation of respectful leaders over the last 4 years. Some moral authority to absorb the shocks, if you will.

Meant to post a slideshow of pix of installation, etc., but forgot. Here they are. Moto Grappa & Moto Gomme Open the link to see in "collage;" hover cursor over pix for captions. All best viewed in slideshow mode. Peter Youngblood is a Guzzista saint. Bill

"Sold For $9,946 On 4/6/21"

Try zip tying the lever against handgrip overnight, and turn steering to right. It's worked on my KTM's before. Btw, what do you consider a proper bleed?

Much obliged gentlemen. Regarding removing / reinstalling the tank multiple times, hanging it partly full to ensure no leaks, installing a new o-ring and blue-goo, eyeing a new sensor on Ebay....guilty. I've never had the sensor out of its mounting fixture, so it's time to check that washer. Seems like a likely culprit given the pooling into the boot. Any harm in applying a thin coat of non-hardening fuel-resistant liquid gasket to the washer (assuming it's intact) ? The upside is that this leak pushed me to finally get some EtOH-free gas and groom the rubber pucks. Just anuther day with the V11.

I've been playing lots of Pandora recently. On most of my stations I've been getting lots of Tab Benios. Lots of blues. Anyone have a handle on him and what record to get?

Just had to order a copy. Thanks.

You can take the correct size wrench and loosen the nut by one flat and retighten the nut until it is SNUG . Or you can remove the tank and install a new o-ring and remove the tank 3 Xs , install a new low level sensor just to realize you could have done Step # 1 .

Here's what one looks like. The wires are potted, but if that sealing washer was cracked..

Peering at a fuse box in a Scottish factory, he said: “It looks as though it was put in by an Indian.” He later backtracked: “I meant to say cowboys.” ...I remember well the media beat up outrage at this infamous Prince Philip quip - but the deft recovery reported a few days later made it all the more infinitely hilarious - an absolute classic!! He was a great irreverent wag - the Queen will miss that for sure! End of an era HRH.

Yes. It is commonly accepted knowledge that the stock air box is preferred. Guzzi put a lot of work into making the flow optimal, a long time ago. It's not just a box, it's an integral piece of the intake system. It is surely the 'tuner friendly' way to go. That said, Dr. John Wittner, who was instrumental in development of the spine frame, succeeded in putting Guzzi back in the racing limelight for a short time in the 80's, certainly used V stacks on at least some of his bikes. It can be done right, I just don't care enough to do it. I'd be interested in reading anyone's outcomes using pods if they care to post them.

Super helpful to have this documented! My V11 developed a fuel leak while it was in storage this past winter, and I've localized it to a slow seep at the fuel level sensor. After leaving it overnight, I peeled back the rubber boot, I found it filled with fuel. So, I'm wondering if the leak is somehow through the body of the sensor, rather than past the screws or around the o-ring. I can't recall any mentions of this, but maybe someone else has or has ideas about whether it's likely or repairable. I've got blue goo, but the weeping continues....

Hi Bill, I bought the same model No-Mar in Jan 2019 at the International MC Show in Cleveland. NM threw in the the scratch proof bead breaker too. I haven't needed it yet but will in June I figure. I've got the unit stowed in the corner of the garage but installed drop in anchors in the garage floor where I plan on using it from time to time. I've changed many tires on a pneumatic machine but never on a manual set-up. The NM folks have some great videos on demount & mount, I'll try to learn something before I damage a wheel or tire, I hope. Like Leroysch pointed out about the wrinkle finish paint on the center post, it flakes off...I don't like it either. May have to get center post finish blasted off and recoat with krylon, rustoleum, etc. I didn't go for the NM balancer either, bought a Marc Parnes balancer that I'll use in conjuntction with a couple of jack stands for side support. Art

I might've mentioned I picked up a new portable Slime air pump. It takes up more space that the old one. It has a simply lever chuck on it, which works much better given the air stem clearance issues with both Guzzis.

+1 on the advice given so far, from my perspective, of about 10years with the slightly more basic, older, cheaper model of the cycle hill. I’m a fan, and it works, and the tricks noted seem spot-on. But to double down on the touring tire comment, the no-mar clearly ain’t hydraulic, so a stiff touring tire, done in winter when it’s cold, is too much hassle for me. Dirt bike tires are easy, basically mimicking the videos u see of folks using the NoMar so effortlessly. But a stiff walled K60 in a cold shop in winter (I try and time mx when I can for winter, non riding season), forget it. And yes, I heat the tires next to wood stove, but for some reason it just isn’t the same. Doable, and I did it for a while to justify my purchase early on, but now it’s summer only, and even then there are certain tires I just bring to the shop (hydraulics). Mine is mounted to the concrete, works great, and I’d buy it again. But while a tkc80 is no sweat, a Shinko 705 or K60 for the rear of a big ADV bike has me inventing new curse words.

I've got to relay my experiences. I have been changing tires for 50 years using a bead breaker mounted to my bench and concrete floor, tire irons, 4x4's on a concrete floor or car tire wheel with protector on my bench, and rim protectors. I've always been successful, even with a 240 section Harley tire but, with the exception of the skinny '75 Triump tires, it was always a struggle. And, anytime I thought I had learned a trick, either it didn't work next time or it was so long between tire changes that I forgot it. Then I bought a No Mar Classic HD along with their tire irons, Xtra hand clamp, Yellow thing and their lube and bolted it to the floor. The first tire (rear) for my 2004V11 Le mans tore while mounting. I was unable to get it on without finally using tire irons and rim protectors. So, before I mounted my same size Suzuki TL1000S rear tire, I bought a used wheel and tire assembly off Ebay for maybe $60-$80 and practiced on it. That's is when I learned some of the tricks. Removing a tire is relatively easy but mounting is much more tricky. I'll practice on my Ebay wheel/tire first when it time to change my next tire ( I have 7 bikes). If I don't practice, I'm sure I'll look like those guys on YouTube with their tires spinning on the mountings. Finally, the further you get from mounting a race tire towards a touring tire, the less chance of success you'll have mounting the tire with the mounting bar. For my 2014 Valkyrie rear tire, I used the demount bar just fine but used only tire irons to mount it. The a few of these tire irons: https://www.jpcycles.com/product/2170075/j-p-cycles-tire-iron-15-curved used with a rim protector or plastic from 2 liter cola bottle will help get the last part of tire over the rim when using tire levers. No Mar's levers are wide. Frank Good luck.

You may not believe this, Bill. but there is a learning curve. The best tip I can give you is to make absolutely sure the side opposite the one you are working on is totally down in the drop center.