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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/28/2021 in all areas

  1. Just something to put into your bag of possibilities. Looking back over this it seems that you get it going... and then it stops. I'm reminded of a very strange and - tough to find - problem I had a while back. Though my problem was blowing fuses, it was directly related to forward motion. Turned out the side stand safety switch wire blew up against the head pipe and melted, causing the fuse to blow. Then It dropped away and was good with a new fuse until I got up to speed and it shorted again. Took me a week to find it. Reading about your damaged sensor wires made me recall my problem an
    4 points
  2. My 1100Sporti had a bad phase sensor when I bought it, which took a minute to sort out. I had precisely the same symptoms, that is it ran great just about far enough to be a real pain walking back then quit. At first it was intermittent loss of power, intake spitting, then quitting and restarting after a short cool-off. It got worse until eventually I was afraid to leave the garage with it. Eventually it became obvious that the problem presented with heat, and some forum investigation led me to pull the sensor and ohm it cold and hot- sure enough, a heat gun made the sensor open right about th
    3 points
  3. heh. i have gone through the cycles of not super happy about it. but I don't blame the bike- mostly me for not properly maintaining it. So its now in oregon in the back of my brothers old truck- which luckily DID make the trip. reason I was traveling up is my mother and brother finally got vaxed - first time I have seen them in 1.5 years. I just booked a flight back to SF as i have to get back to pick up my daughter by tuesday- I ordered a new sensor from MGcycle and the bike will stay here until I come up later in July. I may work on it a bit today but also may just take
    3 points
  4. So the fuel pump is running but just for a couple of seconds? Is it still running while cranking over, if not it's probably the Phase sensor. The phase sensor turns on the injection relay through the ECU, the injection relay turns on the pump and the ignition coils, if the Phase sensor dies you lose the injection relay, pump, spark & injectors. You could make sure no-ones added extra spacers to the sensor, sometimes that gets done in an attempt to make it oil tight. The gap should be 0.6 - 1.2mm. Probably your best bet to find another sensor is to borrow one from a local Guz
    3 points
  5. There's a good discussion on setting the sensor clearance here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21021-guzzisti-friendship/#elControls_240669_menu
    2 points
  6. ^^^^^Like I said, I have a dollar riding on it. I had to let the moths out of my billfold to make sure I had one.. (Guzzi content)
    2 points
  7. If I could get a replica aluminum tank like this one for under $2k I'd do it. I personally wouldn't like a tank under a false cover on the V11. The next route for me would be a standard tank dried out and sealed internally. It should not expand or bubble after that and any fitment problem that may still exist, make adjustments to the frame mounts.
    2 points
  8. The thing about machinery is it won't give you grief on purpose, unlike (ahem) some people. Patience and Perseverance *will* get to the bottom of it.
    2 points
  9. Phase Sensor plugs into the harness under the tank on the left side, beside the front of the spine frame: white and orange wires. (The location shown is after "grooming." Your connector could be anywhere in that vicinity) . . . Phase/timing sensor, itself, is seen at the very bottom, right of this image ^^
    2 points
  10. Are you also posting on Wild Guzzi that would improve your chances, all the Guzzis back then used the same sensor If not a member on there somehow send your cell No so we can link you up.
    2 points
  11. OK! it stopped raining and I went out and removed the phase sensor, cleaned it.. and indeed, that oring was all messed up. So I removed the ring.. it was chwed up and expanded etc.. no good. Cleaned the mating surface as best I could.. put it back in.. and VOLA! the bike works! Now it has done this before... so not sure if its just back to its intermitant "runs Great! then dies in a few miles- or its actually now set correctly. My brother is nearly here so I may try and ride up and he will follow and see how far I get. NO oring but a bit of oil leakage I can deal wi
    2 points
  12. This behaviour sounds exactly like mine did. Only happened when the bike was hot, eventually traced back the problem to the phase sensor. A non-oil compatible o-ring underneath it had swollen, causing the mounting plate to bend and the phase sensor move away from the phonic wheel causing these issues. A new o-ring did the trick in my case. Not saying in your case it is the o-ring, but the phase sensor explains the behaviour very well.
    2 points
  13. Had the Greenie on the road now for about 500miles, yesterday suddenly sputtering and dies. Rev sensor comes to my mind, but that was only a loose +cable, I THOUGHT . Up in the valleys today, same thing. Starts and run perfect idling, no reving, sputtering and dies. Rolf Halvorsen (on the V11forum) was going to stop by my house today to see the regulator story. He calls, but I was stuck up in the valleys. I have rev sensors, tps and tools in the car,, where are you. He went to my house, got my van, and 60miles. Had the sensor out when he came. New sensor in, YES. What is the odds to
    1 point
  14. Just buy one and get it over with Docc
    1 point
  15. ooooh, I know how I would badge that tank . . . only in blue . . .
    1 point
  16. It's starting to look like a good long term option, hey we could alway sell them if it fits nice!!
    1 point
  17. It must be a bitsa... Yes, long frame, short tank, black ITI clocks.. it's like I got the worst of everything!!
    1 point
  18. I'd go with the alloy tank option.
    1 point
  19. Thanks... wishful thinking on my part. My "new" tank is now starting to go, it was fine, then all of a sudden it was really hard to get back on, and now I can see small bubbles starting on the top.... Although the £700 I was quoted was for the entire job through a professional outfit, I do have the opportunity for a friend to weld an ally tank for free, he just wants me to make the net and cut the sheet metal first. Seems a big job no? Will lose a bit of capacity.
    1 point
  20. My understanding is that both the early/chin-pad/external pump&filter short tank and the later/internal componentry long tank are both Acerbis roto-molded polyamide ("Nylon"-like polymer). We are fortunate to have members that have experience with both tanks. @Lucky Philcomes to mind . . .
    1 point
  21. ordered new fuel pump, filter, and manual petcock from MGcycle.. so gonna do all that as well. probably time even if they are working to get those sorted. I can keep the old ones as emergency spares if they check out ok.
    1 point
  22. As Tomchi said, here's the schematic, the sensor has a short cable plugged in under the tank somewhere, measure between 1 & 2. Note also how the petcock fuse is right on the critical path battery to ECU relay, if you hot wire to fuse 8 it will also energize the ECU relay, the ECU will energize the injection relay. Actually that's a good point, does the fuel pump run when you turn the key On, if not it's something missing in the main interlock circuit. The pump will still run even if the Phase sensor has failed but only for a couple of seconds, if the pumps not running for the ini
    1 point
  23. @jetboy, the O-ring is a standard #112. Viton should be available at a quality parts store.
    1 point
  24. I usually leave my phaser set to “stun”.....
    1 point
  25. 1 point
  26. My bet is on the phase sensor, too. It certainly can't hurt to put fresh gas in it, though, although didn't you have this problem before the trip?
    1 point
  27. Shimming V11 RPM Sensor.pdf Josh, I suspect that your phase/revolution sensor PN GU01721600 is bad. It is a coil of very fine wire inside a resin body. It can work ok when cold, but become open circuit as the engine warms up. If the connection in the coil wire is intermittent, then the engine will be erratic. See links below to previous posts including an alternate non-Guzzi part source, and gap setting instruction attached. phase sensor repair - How to... - Moto Guzzi V11LeMans.com Forum https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19509-v11-sneeze/&tab=comments#elC
    1 point
  28. Out riding the mountain today. Discovered the hard way my battery is going kaput. 2 years on the money. But it was still a fun ride. Hot but fun.
    1 point
  29. (ahem) That might have been set a little closely..
    1 point
  30. Fuel pump turns on and pumps fuel. Used that to clean the lines of the possibly bad fuel! Sadly i am sending this from the side of the road. Ran beautifully for about 2 miles then just stopped. And back to doing the weird rev cycle. Still waiting on pick up. Should be here in about 30 min
    0 points
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