Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/31/2021 in all areas

  1. The powder coating process took longer than expected as half the old bubbled crappy 02 paint practically fell off but the other half didn't want to come off at all..Then after much effort finally the powder coater said he was afraid to turn the pressure up on the sand blaster any higher for fear of doing damage to the cases..so We took the cases to another guy in LA that he recommended who does a special chemical paint removal and after 2 weeks there it was ready to go back to the powder coater and be coated..He did a great job of masking and painting..very happy with that! So now the motor is on its way back together, sort of got sidetracked ( as always happens) as there was some light scoring on the crank bearings so we had to redo crank and bearings, and the timing chain gear didn't want to come off so we had to cut the chain off to get the gear off..so we replaced all of those parts...then we decided to put in some new valve seals since we were there and seemed like the opportune time..the valves and pistons looked very good, we also replaced the old one and powder coated a new sump pan as it was starting to crack where the side stand bolts go in..they were loose from when I got the bike... ..but now at last Progress!!
    5 points
  2. WOW! So many really awesome bikes! Great jog, as usual, @swooshdave, on the video ! Love the start-ups and riders pulling away. Thanks for taking us along, Dave!!
    3 points
  3. The Gambalunga won the class and maybe best of show. Dunno, didn't stick around that long.
    3 points
  4. Good Morning All, My name is Tony and I have recently been given the paperwork for the 'Daytona Dr John' register. This register logs the owners of the 20 Dr John bikes that were produced in 1994 for the UK market. Of the 20 bikes that were initially produced, 1 was involved in a fire and so was lost. This left 19 bikes, and the owners are listed on the paperwork I have. The register was stopped in 1998 when the owner who ran the register sold his Dr John. So, I have now picked up the reins and decided to give it a go and try and find the owners. So far I have the details of 10 owners confirmed, leaving 9 owners out there somewhere. Three of the bikes moved into Europe, two to Belgium and one to Holland, leaving 6 in the UK, who knows where???? So, If you know of a Daytona Dr John owner please ask them to contact me so I can put them on the register for this rare and iconic bike. My email is antony.maddox007@gmail.com or if whatsapp is better +447793085946 Kind regards, Tony.
    2 points
  5. It really was an amazing coincidence to come out of -- I am somewhat embarrassed to admit this publicly -- Denny's after breakfast and see the unidentified-until-now Nick on his Norge with a Duc riding with him. Nick told me on the phone that he had left his home in the N.J. Philly burbs with the intention of meeting his Bologna buddy -- from a different part of Pa. Philly -- somewhere along the way. Nick came off I-81 northbound onto U.S. 11 just as his Ducati friend rolled off of I-81 southbound. That's a four-or-so hour trip meshing serendipitously at the same moment. Add to that our own puling out of the Denny's parking lot to see a red Norge. Not quite to Twilight Zone level, but a nice coincidence anyway. Bill
    2 points
  6. ......and had a great time in the WV twisties!!!
    2 points
  7. ^^^^^ It was "N.J. Nick." He and buddy were en route to a beemer rally near Greenbanks, W.V. Nick reports that may have been more Guzzis than BMW's. The man rides all the time, and everywhere. Bill
    2 points
  8. Transmission was all powder coated, gone thru and now back together..now for the motor!! Step by step!
    2 points
  9. If that dude selling the V11 also owns that old V7 then I'd consider it. Or maybe offer $5000-$5500.. The old Goose is a good sign he's cared for it.
    1 point
  10. I'm looking for a MK1 Le Mans , might consider a MK2 or lookie likely MK1 . Cash waiting in the UK .
    1 point
  11. 1 point
  12. Dammit Google maps... the link still works for me. So here are the roads, starting in Paso Robles: Highway 46 (Get gas here, If you follow this route you need to have 160 miles range) South on Golden Hills Road Creston Road La Panza Road CA 58 East Soda Lake Road. This is the most direct way through Carrizzo Plain National Monument, it's a graded dirt road, but if you have more time and a riding partner, there are tons of side roads and other more interesting ways through the monument. 166 East/33 south (if you need gas, you can go North to Maricopa from here) 33 South (there is a small privateer gas station on this road. Sometimes it is open. You can gas up for sure in Ojai.)
    1 point
  13. I just checked in my garage, but sadly, I don't have one. Seriously, cool project. Have you also joined WildGuzzi.com? That's a bigger audience and just the type of crowd that might know something to help you.
    1 point
  14. Any good independent shop should be willing and able to handle all of it, but they may freak when they see the filter in the sump. Fluids? Maybe a Duc shop might risk it, as they do Brembo hydraulics. As to tires, Cycle Gear will do the tires if you buy them there. Arizona Mesa(480) 969-5555 Peoria(602) 313-6371 Phoenix(602) 971-1630 Surprise(623) 474-3335 Tucson(520) 882-8111
    1 point
  15. 1 point
  16. I guess Euro Cycles doesn't need need any work for the shop. They can't service the bike and change tires? WTF?
    1 point
  17. Yesterday, I took the "shortcut" between Paso Robles and home. This involved the scenic, undulating CA 58, about 40 miles of desolate dirt through Carizzo Plain, and the fabulous uninterrupted stretch of curves that is CA 33 (north of Ojai). After all that spectacular riding, I payed my dues with 100 miles of freeway, most of which was clogged-up lane-splitting. If you want to see some fun roads, try this link to google maps and zoom in on everything North of Los Angeles.
    1 point
  18. Yup, I've got plenty. Still just $10 each plus shipping to wherever.
    1 point
  19. Finally replaced that damaged valve cover and installed the new guards. Looks much better....
    1 point
  20. A simple perfect tool for Phase sensor distance. Cheers Tom Sent fra min SM-A505FN via Tapatalk
    1 point
  21. My Forks are going to Holland! Isn't that viert? The big upgrade is now in effect. They use the Forks as a template to build the new ones. The internals will be Mupo CSP30-R‘s This old girl is going to have the best front end currently available to the general public! Massive front end diet planned with these Forks, Magnesium Triple Clamps, Sicom Rotors and OZ Racing Wheel.
    1 point
  22. I was thinking between the lining and carbon, that tank shouldn’t move. I also bought a roll of Teknofibra 4mm flexible thermal barrier to line the underside since you can’t get the factory stuff anymore. Besides this is much better and probably overkill but it’s okay. I don’t care. I try to stick with top tier fuels (Shell V Power) and run a mix of that and 110 race fuel.
    1 point
  23. As Tomchi said, here's the schematic, the sensor has a short cable plugged in under the tank somewhere, measure between 1 & 2. Note also how the petcock fuse is right on the critical path battery to ECU relay, if you hot wire to fuse 8 it will also energize the ECU relay, the ECU will energize the injection relay. Actually that's a good point, does the fuel pump run when you turn the key On, if not it's something missing in the main interlock circuit. The pump will still run even if the Phase sensor has failed but only for a couple of seconds, if the pumps not running for the initial 2 seconds chinches are the Phase sensor is OK. (its a while since I looked at an old guzzi wiring LOL) When you turn the key On the pump runs independent of the sensor but only for a couple of seconds. When you crank the motor the sensor lets the ECU know and it turns the pump back On Actually for the starter to work, ignition switch, Sidestand relay and kill switch all have to be closed, that feeds the Start button.
    1 point
  24. @jetboy, the O-ring is a standard #112. Viton should be available at a quality parts store.
    1 point
  25. It might well be the phase sensor others have suggested but it could be just a simple electrical fault. I would hot wire from the battery to the ECU, that will tell you one way or the other. The phase sensor is a very simple device, just a coil wound over a small magnet but it's absolutely vital, a good idea to carry one on a trip because there isn't work around that I know of. Sorry I don't seem to be able to post a link here but basically you need to be able to liven up fuse 8, the petcock fuse, that will back feed the ECU relay and so turn on the ECU. Be warned this will bypass the ignition switch, side stand switch and kill switch but that beats being stuck on the road. An alternative is reading the Voltage at fuse 8 with the key On, it should be alive, if not it's one of the 3 switches I listed above. I had a light on fuse 8, Docc named it the Go Winkie light.
    1 point
  26. it may still not be related at all- as it sometimes for no reason jsut does work for a while. but fingers crossed that is the issue identified- and partially abated. burned the heck out of myself getting to it though.
    1 point
  27. IMHO it depends, I agree on a lot of things, cars and other toys but with my MC I usually like to go to a dealer. HOWEVER it looks like I have no option. There is a Harley repair shop in town (Eagle Motorcycles) and I will approach them. I used to deal with GT Motors i Lansing, MI, are they still in business since Larry passed away or where are sources for 2002 V11 LeMans parts, filters etc.?
    0 points
  28. I almost never use a dealer for routine service. I'd look around for a good independent mechanic in your area. I had some service done in Lake Havasu a few years ago. Sorry, I don't remember the name. Mike
    0 points
×
×
  • Create New...