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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/16/2021 in all areas

  1. Got them in my 3 bikes I also mail Joe on and off to talk all things Guzzi, he's a really good guy and Guzzi fanatic. If you've got questions mail him and ask there's no obligation and he'll discuss pros and cons, he's very knowledgable https://woodburymotomedia.com/moto-guzzi-timing-gears-by-joe-caruso/
    3 points
  2. Hello Gear Heads, Totally unnecessary and largely unseen...Just what my Italian beauty deserves! Besides gear drives are just cool ;-) I put my name on the list for a set of Joe's gears. He needs a few more orders before the next run of v11 sets. So give your Goose some love and order up a set! joe.caruso@ntlworld.com
    2 points
  3. Docc, got specs on that AN fitting ? And no, the o-rings are not where it is leaking. The actual hose under the wire weave cracked. The heat in Phoenix is a killer.
    1 point
  4. I mostly agree. I did some research checking Motul 5100, 7100 and 300 motorcycle brands. The 5100 is a synth blend, 7100 is full synth, and the 300 is racing synth. The first two can be combined with any weight and any type of synth or dino oil. But the 300 is not recommended to mix with other types and weights. Good info to know if you are traveling and need a top up and know that 15-50 or 10-60 isn't available. Some guys want "racing" oil but it may not be a good option.
    1 point
  5. S141 is for sale in Munich, Germany
    1 point
  6. As mentioned, the key to the fuel sensor is it has enough resistance when covered in fuel (kept cool) to prevent the low fuel light from lighting. As long as there is enough resistance, it really doesn't matter how much there is. When it is exposed, uncovered, its resistance goes down and it can flow enough electricity to light the low fuel light. It is a really simple circuit. Besides testing the resistance of the sensor you can confirm that applying 12 volts to the rest of the circuit will light the low fuel light.
    1 point
  7. You know how many complaints or even suggestions of dissatisfaction I've heard about Joe's gears? None! Not one! Nada! If you want gears they are the ONLY decent option. The End. Oh, and John, i Havant been ignoring you. I've just been busy with a lot of non motorbike crap. I'll PM you when I have a moment. Sorry. Pete
    1 point
  8. Expected Goose = P-47 That MGS-01 is a BEAUTIFUL bike! If I were a rich man...it would be on the track when not residing in my man cave.
    1 point
  9. Just under three months to the Seventeenth South'n SpineRaid, and what Centenary Celebration we can offer. These things need to be done just so. A matter of stewardship . . .
    1 point
  10. +1 Took a friends 140 for a spin yrs ago to exercise it, not realizing in my youth that a sump drain located mid tank won’t be the low point when a tail dragger is on the ground (my t-craft didn’t have that issue). Ran perfectly sweet till leveling out at 800’, then my very young son asked why the plane was so quiet... After paying an unscheduled visit to the farm of my in-laws on one of their fallow fields, the water was removed by raising tail, then flew it back. Water trapped in the wrong spot is “undesirable”. Drain water, then add some fuel additive, and done. If that’s the issue here.
    1 point
  11. Yep, that is low fuel on an early Sport (chin-pad, external pump/filter) tank. The right "lobe" holds up to 0.8 US gallons of "fuel." Or is it half (or more) of accumulated detritus, water, and "binary azeotropes?" Draining the fuel from the regulator return hose will only drain the left side "lobe." The right side lobe will have to be siphoned from the filler at the top, or the regulator removed, or the tank removed and turned on its head. Fully draining your tank should be properly shielded from the public eye . . . @czakky knows how I wait for these moments . . .
    1 point
  12. Thanks Docc. This is now my fav pic of the bike. As always there is a little evolution with a build and some changes on things that didnt quite work as intended. The seat was one of those things. originally I told my seat guy, I wanted to cover the seat shape I had created with some nice leather. I had used a foam which he said was not up to it, so i said replace it and use good foam and make the shape back with the new foam. Well it was totally different shape and the leather colour didnt quite work. About a year ago I redid the seat using another seat guy and I think it works better now in comfort and looks. I've changed a number of bits now and its almost finished Essentially though I just wanted to show off and accentuate the motor and tank and shorten the tail. I actually like the original tail a lot, probably my fav looking cafe tail but its big and too big for what i wanted.
    1 point
  13. I found knumbnutz' build thread, one I really enjoyed. I have also been looking for an image posted by another Australian member of an interesting V11 custom similar to this one, but cannot find it. Any ideas?
    1 point
  14. The later 4 valve engines that have cooling passages around the exhaust ports in the heads require a full group 4 synthetic to deal with the heat although 60 weight is a total overkill in my opinion. A 40 weight will have better flow through those cooling passages and the big ends and mains certainly dont require a 60 weight with regards to load carrying ability. Seriously, anyone not using a full synthetic oil these days has their head in the sand. Will the engine survive without it?... sure, but it so outperforms mineral/fortified oils its rediculious. Its a bit like arguing crossply tires a better than radials. Ciao
    1 point
  15. Hold the phone! RedLine makes a motoroil suitable for the V11? I may reconsider using synth...
    1 point
  16. Hold the phone! RedLine makes a motoroil suitable for the V11?
    1 point
  17. Redline 20w50 and Shockproof Heavy gear oil.
    1 point
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