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Joe replied to my email immediately and offered considerable additional information that I will try and post later. I believe much of this has been included in Lucky Phil's installation thread. Joe did say there are Daytona and V7 gear runs ahead of the V11, so ours will probably be by the end of the year. The cost of £675 UK Pounds is, today, $924USD ($1258AUD) including shipping (to the USA).

I replaced mine with Honda CBR600F4 mirrors as suggested here: https://www.motorcyclelife.eu/bikes/past-projects/moto-guzzi-sport-1100i/ They are much better than the originals.

Yes, you are crazy. And so are the rest of us inmates. You know what else is crazy? Buying a new motorcycle, barely riding it, and then selling it for $2,000 less than you paid. So buying a set of gears is only half as crazy as that. If you want to feel sane, you just have to compare yourself to someone crazier than you.

It doesn't quite work like that docc if I get your meaning here. Basically the tension on the cam chain doesn't vary between on and off throttle, the forces on it don't reverse. It's not in tension when on the gas and slack when off the gas. It's more a case of in tension on the gas and off the gas and more tension or load when accelerating due to increased valve train loads and friction. You're never in a situation where the cam chain loads are reversing, it's more or less load situation but always in the same direction under normal running conditions. In some ways the tensioners job is easier at higher rpm than at idle depending on the engine configuration. The reason for the throttle hick at steady state only is the same as the reason you don't always feel the dip in an engines torque curve you see on a dyno because you accelerate through the area fairly quickly. Same as areas where the jetting/mapping is slightly off, if it's in an area you accelerate through briefly then it doesn't get noticed or is of no operational consequence. So the reason for the 2800-3200 rpm hick up I think is in this area there is a combination of related factors that come together under certain circumstances with regards to mapping and environment and if you ask the engine to operate in that area in a steady state under the right conditions you will get the effects. Even under the right conditions if you dont hang around in that rpm/load area but just ride through it same as the torque curve dip it in effect becomes a quickly transitioned area as the engine accelerates that isn't felt. Combined that with the fact that when you accelerate through the area you are probably using a throttle opening that doesn't equate with the problem anyway. If I still had the 2 valver fitted I'd change the ignition advance in the area I pointed out earlier and then see the effect which might take a while for all the environmental stars to align. Ciao

The cost in £ was quoted above. Chucking £'s to $AU in the currency converter will tell you roughly what the cost will be in $AU. I thought that was what you were wanting to know? You'll also need a timing chest gasket and front seal and o-ring.

.....a variation of the musical relay game. Next time remember to dance around the bike rattling chicken bones. Good MoJo.

I'm 99% in accord with this, *but* there is that 1%. I've attached a photo of a Camshaft for illustration. On a big block Guzzi, all four cam lobes are on the same side of the cam. A compressed valve spring returns all of the energy input on the opening ramp back into the rotation of the camshaft on the closing ramp, minus heat losses through friction; on the ramps where a valve is closing at the same time another begins to open, the opening ramp 'catches' the closing rotational forces and *probably* cancels them. On the other side of the cam, though, there are two closing ramps with no opposing opening ramps to prevent them rotating the camshaft into whatever slack there may be in the chain, or perhaps overcoming the weak stock tensioner. Worse, they close at the same time doubling the effect. I believe that's the source of the spark scatter at idle, and I won't assert but remain open to the possibility that the ~3k rpm dip may be some function of chain slack and resonant property stack in the components.

All true. Didn't actually mean to sound like I have the definitive answer here it's a considered opinion only. Interestingly a lot of Einstein's theories were the result of what he called "thought experiments" as mankind didn't have the technology to prove his theories at that time. It's amazing how many are being proved correct now we have the technology to be able to run a physical experiment and measure the outcomes. The 2800-3200 rpm hiccup is the LP "thought experiment" Can't give an Einstein guarantee though. Ciao

Never cool, too much "look at me" going on there. Better the warm inner knowledge you are a man of quality, distinction and elegance and have no need to descend into tawdry displays of engineering opulence. The nod and a wink is all thats required. Ciao

Well docc you can deduct the cost of a new cam chain, sprockets and tensioner from the cost of the gears because it's probably about due for those. I learned about 25 years ago that values are relative after one of the guys at worked scoffed at the cost of my new motorcycle when he heard what I'd paid for it, around $16,000 from memory. I remember thinking at the time, this guys passion was his 60' motor cruiser that cost about $150000 at the time to buy and $1000 to fill with fuel another $5000 a year for mooring fees and it got used about a dozen hours a year. Go figure values out. I sometimes look at my bikes and wonder what people in maybe 50 years time when I'm long gone think about the owner that made all these modifications? I always liked reading about old bikes from the early part of the last century that were uncovered with loads of enhancements from some long dead previous owner that loved the thing. A lasting legacy for others to wonder about one day maybe. Ciao

The stability is controlled by the shop stand and the front lift support by the scissor lifter. It's stable. You can of course have a simple small wooden frame to locate on the sump when you use the scissor lift if your worried. My large holder was made for an engine change where I lifted the chassis over the engine on the lift bench and for engine storage. An overkill in all other situations. Ciao

comparing my 2 the early bars are about 1 inch higher and 1/2" further forward than the later ones. The fork bodies on the later bikes are about 1" longer to accommodate the bar clamp mounted above the tree.

I sent the following around a few days ago as an email to some “usual suspects." Decided to post it as a thread on some Guzzi websites in case I missed someone. These “Mutton Runs” are always a highlight of my motorcycling year, and I think that anyone who has to been to one agrees. Let me know if interested, though there is no effort to make it a group ride … well, except possibly on Sunday morning to the picnic itself. I might need to alert the parish lest they think Hollister 1947 has morphed into Whitesville 2021! Three Guzzisti have already indicated a desire to leave from here, another will meet us along the way, and several others have said they will meet us in Owensboro. ======= Well, there are several ways to sate that mutton urge, e.g., have some delivered to your door; see https://www.moonlite.com. We’ve done that ourselves. Mmmmmutton. But, a more fun way is to ride your motorcycle to Daviess County, Kentucky, and smack your lips at the biennial picnic at St. Mary of the Woods in Whitesville on Sunday, 26 September 2021. This will be a return to the great picnics of old after three Covid-cancelled or modified “drive-thru” events. Several getting this have been on previous “mutton runs” over the years. Those lucky folks know what it’s all about. If, OTOH, you have no clue about this and want to know more — and, heck, if you are still reading this, you must care at some level however small — take a look at one or more of these slideshows. May 2016 - https://bill-and-kathi.smugmug.com/Men-Motorcycles-Mutton/n-GRNH7j/ May 2018 - https://bill-and-kathi.smugmug.com/Mutton-Running-May-2018/n-dHftGV/ Sep 2018 - https://bill-and-kathi.smugmug.com/Muttoning-Sept-2018/n-7HZKSL/ May 2019 - https://bill-and-kathi.smugmug.com/Mutton-Run-2019-/n-9V3j52 I plan to leave home on Thursday, 23 September, RON somewhere — Maysville, if doable — then RON at the Holiday Inn Riverfront in Owensboro, “in 24, out 27 September (Monday);" https://www.ihg.com/holidayinn/hotels/us/en/owensboro/owbdt/hoteldetail Owensboro has lots of other lodging available. See, e.g.,https://tinyurl.com/Yellow-Banks-Lodging The plan is to take (something like!) this route (from here, anyway), tho this may be of the “Bridge Too Far” sort of plan: https://tinyurl.com/Cross-Junction-to-Mutton-Land The route includes a cameo on the second day at the Kentucky Guzzi rally near Frankfort. We usually stop only for fueling (the Guzzis and a quick snack), hydration, bladder maintenance, and occasional overlooks, compelling photo opps, and some historical markers (my personal flaw!). In other words, no leisurely Italian lunches followed by Riposo! We travel almost exclusively on tertiary back roads, and only hit major roads or the slab if WAY behind or to avoid trafficky city centers, tho places like Lees Lick and the like have little traffic unless the daily freight rolls through! Return routing to Cross Junction TBD. Questions? Ask. Let me know if you are interested in joining me on all, part, or meeting me along the way of this motorcycle curve-carving, culinary, and corn-sipping* trek. Bill 404.EIGHTZEROEIGHT.8486 wrhagan-AT-earthlink-DOT-net * Yes, it is possible that some a-maizing liquid will be tested, tasted, & toasted!

email sent to Joe.

If you did not know what to do, each year, you can run the Motorcycle Grand Tour of Texas; the tour runs from March 15th until November 15th of the current year. There are 50 stops to make distributed inside the state, and you are considered a tour finisher if you complete at least 25 of them. Here's the interactive map of the stops! Registration for 2021 closed on February 28th, opened to all bike brands. I intend to make as many stops as possible, so far I made 3, the third completed today. I started with the easy ones, those located around Houston. I will update the thread as I find it will incentivize me to do as many as I can. There are 50 stops total, and some events which allow you to meet other participants. there are 1250 participants to the 2021 tour; many of them from other states, not necessarily border either. I am flag 1001 which is a number that fits perfectly as it can be read in both directions. The bikes' brands are not shown, so I do not know how many Moto Guzzi there are, out of them, if there are any V11. Another reason for this thread, if any reading it are doing the tour this year. Anyway, here's my three stops so far. I will adding them as I go, to see if I can get as far as possible. This is my 1st stop: Brenham. This is the second stop: Navasota This is my third stop: Anchor blown 1 mile away Texas City. I rode it in the full of typical Texas weather, around 100 degF feel, and I am able to confirm the V11 does not like it hot!!!

Ditto. Using the OEM stand and a scissor's jack under the sump, the bike is very stable. I've had the bike up/down/up/downon the lift, tank off/on/off/on, etc. with this configuration without a worry. Only pucker factor I encounter is the use of the OEM stand (with sockets to the appropriate bike nuts) raising and lowering the bike. I have a cheater pipe safety wired to the OEM stand...for reasons you can infer. (You would think an ex-flatbed owner/operator would have known better...)

I thought as much Mines way overdue for getting some grease in the front nipple If anyone in New Zealand with a long frame V11 wants a right angle coupler you can get them from Macnaught KDR Right Angle Coupler - NZ Safety Blackwoods

Yes I'm aware of the this and it's all largely correct, the valve spring returns SOME of its potential energy back to the camshaft after it's compressed but it's a matter or proportion. From memory it can only return around 80% or maybe less on average due to friction, and other dynamic losses such as having the task of reversing the valves acceleration and pulling the valve back onto its seat so the net result is still not a reversal it's only a lessening of torque in the same direction. There is no perpetual motion machine you don't get all the energy back at any point so the net result is always an input to a greater or lesser degree which keeps the force in one direction to a greater or lesser degree. A multi valve/cylinder engine with more lobes smooths this sine wave energy action as does greater rpm. If it was some sort of single cam lobe mechanism with little or no frictional losses and little work to do I might be convinced but for a typical engine running in typical circumstances I don't think so. I think I dispelled the theory of the cam drive and wear/play and inadequacies/wear/spring fatigue in the tensioner causing the hiccupping when I went to the gear driven cams. It made no difference at all I'm disappointed to say, it still hiccupped as before in the same particular circumstances. Ciao

I looked at my red frame ( I am pretty hard headed ) a long time & short of enlarging the shield , you will have to remove the shaft . Now , I am more than ready to be proved wrong .

Thanks again Doc I was just after a rough idea of cost, nothing exact. Not knowing what parts required ( just gears or blah blah also needed ) means no idea of actual cost! Wouldn't mind doing this on mine down the track as this bike is a keeper eh. Cheers Guzzler

Found and fitted this screen, not sure. I'm going a bit further and wanted something to keep the wind off on the motorway. It's a Fabbri 3021, meant for a Honda Hornet. I had to try the mounts in every orientation before getting something close to fitting. There's a bit of a gap at the top of the light, but I guess it's by design, as the bolt is going to be half way up the headlamp on most bikes with a round light, so the hight would have been no different on the intended Honda.

I didn't check more than one currency converter when I posted the values above. As it changes continually, it is only an estimate until the actual exchange occurs. An email to Joe will tell you if shipping to Australia differs from the US. Joe described other issues that may need attention on the installation. He gave me permission to post his comments, and I will likely do so this evening. Again, I am pretty sure these are the same matters so carefully detailed by Luck Phil having to do with the cam bush and the oil pump bearings:

I found two bar end weights for my Guzzi from Boonstra in the Netherlands. Used, but for 40 Euros + 20 for express delivery. The powder coating quote I got was not specified exactly but above the 100 USD mark.

Thanks Doc Guzzler

Yeah, that was my thinking, someone needs a freaking tire and no help. Admittedly, I sort of anticipated the whole deal. I wanted to use the tire up on this trip. But I was considering staying another day or two when one the riders told me about the Honda shop in the next town. I was just going to ride over there but he told me I should to call the Honda shop first. After that I called the other two places. Perhaps if I'd have shown up, they'd made an exception?

I agree with Pressureangle. Most of the source of "play" in the cam chain drive is a result not of what the throttle position is or whether or not it is under load. It is because of the valve springs. When a cam is opening a valve spring it is "under load". And that load is in one direction, the valve spring is providing resistance to the cams rotation. Once the valve is opening and begins to close, the load on the cam chain is now in the other direction as the cam is now trying to spin faster than the engine because the valve spring is now pushing on the cam in the other direction of rotation. This dance gets even more complicated when you have multiple valves being opened and closed at the same time. Valves and valve springs make for varying forces through a cam shafts rotation. Those varying forces means the energy required to spin the cam changes as the motor spins. At times the cam is trying to go slower than the motor is, so the load on the cam chain is in one direction. But at other times the cam is actually trying to spin faster than the motor is spinning so the load on the cam chain is in the other direction.

It gets pretty warm inland from where I live on California central coast, and I've seen the guage register 100 F on several occasions. The calibration is done on my unit by rotating the thermal expansion coil so the needle reads the current ambient temp. There is a plastic backing inside the stainless back ring, which would seem to allow some degree of thermal expansion, although I think the silicon oil is fairly expansion/contraction stable under normal climate heat range.

That's my point. Now I was in rural Ark, Russellville had a Honda and Suzuki shop. Neither would touch my bike for tire change. All they needed to do was put it on shop stand. I had the "special" socket. The Honda dealer would only work on Hondas. The Suzuki dealer said they don't work on Ducatis. I found a shop in the hills that would do it but he didn't have a tire (the most common 180/55 size). Now I didn't go to Fayetteville where I likely would've had better luck. My only point, is that traveling by bike, especially something unusual, like a Guzzi, a rider might not get the service expected or needed in an emergency. The shops are busy and don't need any new business. Now I had enough tire to get home and then some, if I'd had a severely worn tire, don't know. I've been on several trips where someone's tires were down to the cords (mine on several occasions).

Tende. Dove campeggiare La grande festa per il 100° anniversario della Moto Guzzi è alle porte e stiamo lavorando per renderla più sicura e piacevole per tutti. Per quanto riguarda il campeggio, potete immaginare come in questi giorni, i parchi non siano più una soluzione percorribile per la sicurezza, le vie di fuga e la gestione degli spazi. Di conseguenza, non sarà più possibile campeggiare liberamente lì. A tutela dell’organizzazione e dei motociclisti, il comune di Mandello del Lario, d’intesa con il Comitato Motoraduno Internazionale e con la Polisportiva Mandello, ha allestito una nuova area campeggio presso il vicino campo di calcio. È più adatto ed è dotato di docce, bagni, servizi alimentari e bevande e area parcheggio moto. Le sedi tenda, organizzate in lotti di 16 mq, saranno disponibili da mercoledì 8 a domenica 12 settembre al costo di 13 euro a notte a persona (necessario per sostenere le spese di organizzazione, gestione e ripristino degli spazi). Parcheggio interno per la moto è compreso (con disponibilità). Prenotazione obbligatoria. Le richieste devono essere inviate a info@polisportivamandello.it Metodo di pagamento: Bonifico bancario al seguente IBAN: IT12 X056 9651 4900 0001 X13 in nome della Polisportiva Mandello del Lario. La prenotazione sarà valida e confermata (con assegnazione del numero di campo) al ricevimento del bonifico. Considerato il numero di appezzamenti disponibili, sarà data la priorità a soggiorni più lunghi di gruppi di almeno 2 persone. https://motoradunomandello.com/articoli/campeggio-durante-le-gmg-2021/ Curtains. Where to camp The big party for Moto Guzzi's 100th anniversary is upon us and we are working to make it safer and more enjoyable for everyone. As for camping, you can imagine how these days, parks are no longer a viable solution for safety, escape routes and space management. As a result, it will no longer be possible to camp freely there. To protect the organization and motorcyclists, the municipality of Mandello del Lario, in agreement with the International Motorcycle Rally Committee and the Polisportiva Mandello, has set up a new camping area at the nearby football field. It is more suitable and is equipped with showers, toilets, food and drink facilities and a motorcycle parking area. The tent sites, organized in lots of 16 square meters, will be available from Wednesday 8 to Sunday 12 September at a cost of 13 euros per night per person (necessary to support the expenses of organization, management and restoration of the spaces). Internal parking for the motorbike is included (with availability). Reservation required. Requests must be sent to info@polisportivamandello.it Method of payment: Bank transfer to the following IBAN: IT12 X056 9651 4900 0001 X13 in the name of Polisportiva Mandello del Lario. The reservation will be valid and confirmed (with assignment of the field number) upon receipt of the transfer. Given the number of plots available, priority will be given to longer stays of groups of at least 2 people. https://motoradunomandello.com/en/

Sorry LP - the confident delivery of your supposition is admirably clear but it’s still as much of a good guess in identifying the hick “cause” as a blind man in a dark room looking for a cat that isn’t there. Not actually saying you’re wrong - just saying you haven’t found it.

Well, you'd go to a currency converter on the interwebs and ask. ???

Valid point to see the cost relative to the factory parts. I could not find the cost of the Valtek tensioner to include. This makes the extra few hundred dollars seem absolutely sane. I knew I could count on my fellow inmates on the ward. GU01054500 Timing System Gear $298.77 GU14072001 Pinion 139.96 GU28058060 Chain 70.35 GU30057810 Chain Tensioner 68.76 GU30147700 Oil Pump Gear 138.18 $686.02 USD

I have to "block" the factory stand with a section of "4x4" post to get the rear tire clear of the lift deck. The polyethylene kitchen cutting board makes the lift so much easier. Yet the whole affair is very slippery . . . Strapping the front into the Baxley SportChock (clamped to the lift) is very secure. (Until the front has to also come off!)

I find my other guzzis much more pleasant to work on, a big part of that is just getting it up in the air to do work. The V11's style of frame, crossover, lack of center stand, and extreme rear weight bias, makes it challenging for me, to easily get things elevated safely. The first time I tried to pull the rear plate out on my lift table to remove the rear wheel with the sump up on a scissor jack, the whole back end of the bike wanted to drop down into the hole. It was a pucker moment while I held the bike up and managed to get the plate back in place. Be mindful, V11s are very heavy in the ass end lol. Right now I've got it up on a scissor jack under the sump, with a Becker Technik Lift (not impressed jmho) under the pork chops. I'm not happy with the set up I have now, it's a work in progress; my scissor jack is worth it's weight in gold and in the future I want to try using that, and different sized axle stands, with a shaped pieces of wood on them, placed under the pork chop/swing arm area and sump, fwiw good luck

Docc, the V11 looks better, sounds better and won't melt you in traffic. The V11 has great HB Jr bags that are more secure than the factory Ducati semi-rigid saddlebags and I've broken fastening bolts on the Duc (Givi) mounting rack. Otherwise the Duc is 100lbs lighter, 50% more power, more comfortable ergonomics, better seat, handles, feels and brakes on a dime, much more agile and stable on the road, gets better fuel mileage, easier but not perfect shifting, slightly better wind protection, seamless electronics, ABS and multiuse gauges. OTOH, no way I'd do a valve adjustment on the Duc and the rear cylinder/catalytic converter puts out heat when you're not moving. Changing the rear tire, adjusting chain, and changing oil is a snap with the right tools, so routine maintenance is easier but those tools aren't portable on the bike. The Duc is sweet riding but it doesn't have superbike power as it might look; 20 more horses would be nice provided there weren't wider tires and heavier or stiffer ride. The Duc engine is 11 degree testastretta, meaning that is mild tune with 11 degrees of valve timing overlap. The engine is torque-y, picks up at 3k, hits stride at 6k and peak power at 9k and levels thereafter, redlines at 10k. The bike is slightly over geared given the close ratio transmission, so shedding a tooth on the front sprocket wakes the bike up for the lower gears. Roll-on is strong with seldom a downshift needed on the highway. The mirrors are buzzy and not real wide, since they're also turnsignals, not any simple change out; I've had good success with some vibration material and made the mirrors serviceable if not great. The Duc has been stone reliable. Driven hard it can use a quart top off in about 3500-5k miles; that might be concerning since the oil change interval is 9k miles and checking the site glass (for me) is a two person job (or mount it on the rear stand). Finally, the Pirelli Rosso iii/iv tires can wear pretty fast, I've changed over to Dunlop Roadsmarts, same as the V11. I guess that's 19k miles in a nutshell.

Fort Stockton. Oh, the memories. The bathrooms in the Shell station are so bad I just use the dumpster out back. The receptionist at the LaQuinta was the sweetest girl you could imagine. She had two nice shiners. I keep my hand on my pistol.

1001 . . . a numerical palindrome! What a great way to get to love your V11 Le Mans!

The gears will actually give you a bigger wet spot.

It feels like as long as the chain is in tension from the motor accelerating, she pulls awesomely. Stellar. Try to just roll along at some singular rpm and she hiccups like the St. Vitus Dance the Veglia speedometer used to do. While I would prefer to be accelerating all the time, it is not always possible. Or permissible. (Always planning my 200.000 kilometer service interval. I even noticed a little wet spot on the timing chest to get me more worked up . . . . . . OOOH! A LITTLE WET SPOT! BETTER GET SOME CARUSO GEARS! )

It's the best bike I've ever owned or ridden. It's the most comfortable bike I own. Handling, braking, light feel, styling are superb. It has everything except outright speed (with "only" 113 HP) and electric cruise. It even has factory saddlebags. I smoked the rest of the riders through the twisty roads and switchbacks, although I was smoked by the GSXR on very fast Push Mtn. I just didnt want to go that fast and I head already gone 150+ miles on tight twisties whereas the GSXR guy took the interstate and was chomping at the bit. I did 700 miles in two days going to and in the Ark Ozarks, only 20 miles were interstate (which was going out my way to find my way out of the dry county but still failed ). Just completed 18k desmo service. Offending nut is visible here.

My bike came with an aftermarket centerstand. Well made but poorly engineered. The pivot point is about 2-3 inches too low and you pull the behemoth up more than you do back for the first several inches. My chiropractor can explain... Anyway, I roll the back tire onto a 2 by 4 laid flat and that allows the stand to swing down enough that a mere mortality can lift it.

Picture coming, interweb Sent fra min SM-A505FN via Tapatalk

I believe they are Stillobtanium

Mille probably used the Motoplat ignition which had electronic advance of a very unsophisticated type. It retarded the spark for starting but as soon as the engine fired it went to a quite high idle advance. Problem always was if it stalled you had to turn the ignition off to re-set it. Failing to do so and trying to start it would result in fireworks and carbs exiting stage right! As for the spark 'Wandering' due to a slack chain? Yes, it can definitely be a problem. Commonly known as 'Scatter' you can mark the flywheel and then watch the mark with a strobe. While at higher speeds and loads there may be negligible scatter, at lower speeds and light loads (especially with the horrid 'Flappy Foot' tensioner) you'll see the mark jump about like a monkey with St. Vitus Dance! More than enough to make the ECU have a brain fart. Pete

http://s14.postimg.org/h12lev329/tumblr_n34wwhrrr61rmdfgro1_400.jpg My favorite... http://s14.postimg.org/5d8jkbdxd/7f38330ba1d702dc57ad18331cf87d25.jpg http://s21.postimg.org/cq87r278n/d199b2ef3e07a7caf058770add2bda26.jpg