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Our time at the SSR is pretty much in these pix: The Ride to the XVII SSR and Back If you care, hover cursor over pix for captions. Of course, there are too many; that’s how you know that they are genuine and from me, not some imposter. In defense of what may seem a complete lack of discipline, I started with 500+, so it could have been worse. Ciao! Bill

FWIW, when I had my V11 it stumbled around 3000 rpm too. It was a case of small cracks in the intake rubbers. After replacing them it ran a lot better. Worth checking.

Just to add information not as a dictate, when I changed the springs on my Griso, which is a similar weight, I installed 1.05 kg/mm Traxxion springs. The Griso has Showa forks & with all the gear I ride with I'm at 200 lbs. This allowed me to get the sag settings I was looking for, 35 mm at the front. Initially I bought a 0.95 kg/mm spring which was too light & Traxxion swapped it for me, costing me freight only. Remember as well as changing the oil weight, the air gap needs to be precise

I personally think it is involved with fueling.. or maybe needing to be a little rich in that area to cover up poor ignition.

This South'n SpineRaid exhibited the classic elements that are the formula for success and delight. Nothing can happen, in the least, unless you "Get There." Ride a Griso? Bring a LoopFrame? A Honda? Come late? Bring a friend? Okay to trailer? As long as you get there! Lots of ways to "get there." Three Sports to the wind? Check! And "Get There" was not lost on these cool cats (what a sight!!) : "Get There."

Mimosa?? Champagne and Caviar baby

You might need to "fettle" them or the header weld a little. It's the difference between "fitting" and "mechanicing" Ciao

Thanks Bill, always a welcome distraction

I would tend agree Docc that its just a matter of my girl needing a little attention (she’s a selfish girl sometimes….), and perhaps its less about a single flaw and more about getting things all lined up properly. And you got me on the CO ‘drift”…. You’re right, that’s not a wear-and-tear thing… touché, i just got too loose with my postulating. Get a few drinks it me and it’ll get even looser… we’ll be talking MG fetzer valves and framostats in no time. And P6x, are you implying i should replace the glow plugs on my Guzzi? I like the tractor analogy! In all seriousness, i certainly agree that some temp/humidity combo effects how she runs, where some days they will run perfectly with no burbles or flat spots while other (usually hotter) days little hiccups are apparent, but starting has always been about the same on the guzzi’s, as they’re almost freakishly reliable in how they start, all 3 of them, in all weather, whether they’ve been run the day before or sitting all winter. In that way, they are like my diesel machines (though maybe your IH and Deere are gas? ).

That looks really nice. I was looking at something unusual, that is why I was looking at colors. But there is that fine line between bringing up nice features and looking like an old lady that puts too much make up.

"You check in...but you don't check out of the Guzzi family."

Here you go docc

Congrats on the find. Welcome to the “Familia”

Do you do any of your own maintenance? Seems to me you could enjoy a ride with a minimal work: Flush the hydraulics (all 3) - and really, a short ride with the current fluid is probably not going to hurt anything. Brakes are easy, clutch fluid is a hassle the first time. Valve clearances are easy enough to check, but if it's running well now, it's hardly urgent. Fuel lines are probably fine... but worth doing over the winter. I'm a fan of new tires... but hey, if they are in good shape and not 20 years old, just ride it. In short... I don't see anything that would stop me from taking it for a ride immediately.

Interesting. Today, another 70 mile checkride after moving the CO Fuel Trim from zero to +11 (an arbitrary figure I was using previously). I am reminded that the Fuel Trim only makes a significant difference at idle (throttle plate against the idle stop), but I figure it also influences this barely cracked (4.2º) traffic-slog hiccup. So, at +11 today I had to work much harder at making the Sport hiccup. The brap-pop-crackle on deceleration with closed throttle is better (not gone) and the transition out of a corner from closed throttle is smoother. Whether a greater increase of the CO Fuel Trim might further mitigate this 2700-3500 hiccup with barely cracked throttle is an opportunity for another day. Again, as long as there is the slightest load (uphill, or wind resistance above 50mph/80kph), the stumble in those rpm at light throttle opening disappears. It also is not significant below 2500 or above 4000 rpm. I am left agreeing with Lucky Phil that my Sport does not need 41-43.5º of ignition advance between 2700 and 4000 rpm at a steady 4.2º throttle opening. It seems reasonable that those steps should look more like the progression under the 5.2º sequence in those rpm ranges.

little do they know

Tempo fa ho letto questo articolo su Alison Cutlan https://wide.piaggiogroup.com/articles/people/alison-la-sua-moto-guzzi-e-le-altre-miss-fires/index.html https://www.nytimes.com/2014/03/31/nyregion/for-the-miss-fires-motorcycle-crew-hugs-instead-of-handshakes.html

And, of course, "Bring Tools." Two different SpineRaiders allowed as how they were ready to deploy guzzidiag, if desired or necessary. The Lodge guest with the needy Yamaha (not a SpineRaider) was suitably impressed when @HRC_V4 produced an air pig for his low tire. "Bring Tools."

Yup...........What Scud said. These girls are pretty bullet proof but for sure get fresh sporting rubber on as fast as you can. Best money you will ever spend. If she hasn't been out for a while good chance it will run a little crappy ..... patience and heat cycles solve a lot of those problems I have found. Ciao

Spammer. You can see his post in mine, I quoted him and asked what Guzzi he owns. He had included a link to somewhere in his post.

Sounding worthwhile to re-perform a Decent Tune-up with particular attention to the TPS. While I've never heard of, or seen, the CO Fuel Trim "drift", the TPS certainly can. Not unlikely, the issue is a matter of "stacked tolerances" as several parameters have developed slight contributions that add together.

That describes how i do it on both the V11’s, and works a charm. And usually on first attempt it will run on the “choke” for a little until i hear it accelerate a smidge then i can blip throttle, just as you’ve described, though sometimes it takes a 2nd attempt. Same thing now, but it might take 5 attempts, as i wait for that “acceleration” without touching throttle, but it doesn’t happen, and just quits after a few seconds (or if i blip throttle too early, it also quits). I feel like I’m making more of this than necessary, and once i get her into the shop this winter and just look things over it may be all fine, but it is still an interesting question. Again, not electrical insofar as relays and start switches, as all that works fine. The TPS idea seems a possibility, and i suppose my CO could have drifted from the “perfect” setting i had it at last winter, so i can check all that out easy enough once the rains come and she’s in the shop for the winter (she runs well enough to not waste the precious seasonal weather to do anything but ride). cheers

Yes. That was the *last* issue I had after I finally had it running perfectly, except it would hiccup very occasionally at 3400 rpm (from memory) The final solution was the brass temp sensor holder. When I was playing with the CO setting on the Mighty Scura, I could get the hiccup when it was too lean, FWIW.

Until the "battery brains trust" makes a comment, I'd like to share my opinion. Full Spectrum Power claim " lightest weight; highest cranking power; most capacity; smallest size". They don't specify their lithium cell chemistry, so it probably uses the high performing but dangerous polymer technology. It wouldn't be fun sitting on a battery fire. I use a Shorai LFX21L6-BS12 on my V11, and plug in the dedicated Shorai balance charger BMS01 a couple of times a year. It is a LIFePo4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) type, which doesn't hold the most power, but is the safest chemistry. Comparison of lithium cell chemistry here: Safety of Lithium-Ion batteries - PowerTech Systems Shorai Battery Finder | Shorai Power (litema.com.au) What you need to know about lithium motorcycle batteries : FastBikeGear, Importers and Distributors of Motorcycle Accessories

I gotta admit it. The more I see it the more I like it.. But still can't wait to see a naked variant.

What footgoose sez. A buffing wheel, rouge, a little elbow grease, and they'll look like a pewter dollar in no time. Wipe them down one last time after installation, and they'll eventually turn golden. Fingerprints, oil, etc. will have to be looked after, or they'll get splotchy. (technical term)

also consider a clean and polish, like this one. I did mine very close to this and by hand, flitz metal polish, 3m pad, and then cloth. Took a few hours and it will return to tarnish after awhile, but once done it's easier to keep up with. If you use a buffing wheel it's even better

I like the first one best because. It's honest and says I'm a SS header/exhaust and don't see the need to hide it. It has "patina" It's not a hot-rod it's a motorcycle It costs nothing Being an air cooled engine the the last thing I want to do is insulate the header pipes for aesthetic reasons. It's doesn't look like the exhaust on one of those hideous bobberised calamities that, Manscaped, mun wearing, rolled up long pant, Latte sipping, inked up barrister's would ride. Ciao

Bloody difficult to add a bolt-on reactive drive Chris......

Have read this topic with interest and there are some things I would like to comment on. Rising rate suspension, to me it's a bit of a gimmick if you only have between 4 to 6 " of travel and here with the forward cant of the rear shock and progressive wound spring it has it mildly built in anyway. The lack of reaction rod, with the swinging arm the length of an oil barge the squat will be minimal and hey, let's call it character and further consider it's a 'sports' bike not a racer. That and the lack of linkage and joints cuts down on unsprung weight. The fairing, consider what it had to hide, headlights, induction system (massive), fuel load, frame, be a radiator shroud, electricals with most likely the battery hiding up under it AND it has to be aerodynamic, look good and be the mobile bill board for Guzzi signage. I think that it looks just fine and comparing it to say a Le Man's that houses almost nothing seems a bit silly. If you want to compare then pit it against the Stelvio. The movable side vents, just wondering if this is more of a hot air exit than anything else, you know, hot day, fan kicks in, vent opens, hot air rises etc. Seems like a good thing to me. Enough for now, Chris.

Piaggio "Corporate Image" https://ibb.co/NrQ7cbp

@Kostarika posted this pic in his Gallery, but a lot of members don't pay attention or comment there. This stunning image deserves front page news, IMO . . .

Alright, alright, I apologize about about the whimsy of that last one especially after such genuine, quality, and refined musical posts. I probably posted this before, but on the eve of heading to the Seventeenth South'n SpineRaid, and to acknowledge those SpineRaiders who have tried, but could not arrive, I am reminded of this ballad of The Last Chance Texaco. A place we have all been to. I still hear the forlorn whine of the trucks flying by . . .

I'm much more a jazz fan than I used to be. I'll say 'classic' jazz fan, if that's a thing. Awhile back I watched a series titled Bosch, about a modern day LA detective. They developed the characters quite well for a US made series. Detective Bosch was a jazz fan and a vinyl fan. I loved the show but the soundtrack also got my attention, as well as the many jazz references throughout. He named his dog Coltrane. Web searches of the soundtrack brought up a plethora of sweet players, many unknown to me, and rekindled my interest in both this era/style of jazz, and of vinyl. It has become my go to list for "new" artists. I picked up several records of this guy first, just to get things (re)started. Eddie "Lockjaw" Davis

If you like Jazz, big band or Trumpet music..or music in general ..or if you think your getting older like me and want some motivation..this is an excellent biographical film about an amazing guy on PBS which I watched last night..I had no idea as to his level of commitment to his art, or the lifelong background and the depth of experience with other artists. https://www.pbs.org/wnet/americanmasters/stream-never-too-late-doc-severinsen-story-documentary/17495/

Right now, I'm listening to this. No! Not Jay Leno - the Alfa.

The Motobatt that came with my son’s Cagiva lived a hard life, due to non realization for a number of years that it was a LiPo and not AGM (sigh), and consequently was handled improperly. In the end when it came out, not only had it been abused pretty badly, but it was also realized that it was very undersized for the application in the 904cc duc according to motobatt. But you never would have known while using the bike, as it took it all in stride. Just had the usual LiPo thing where it would behave sluggishly when it got real cold-soaked. moral of the story remains more or less as one might think: in the midst of strong support for one side or the other on LiPo or AGM, when looking at overall behavior rather than just single data points, they both seem truly fine. The AGM seem to last longer when properly cared for, and some argue are easier to care for. But the LiPo’s are of course much lighter and smaller, probably won’t last as long but will last a good number of years with their version of “proper care”, which others argue (not inappropriately) is easier than AGM battery care. Like you noted early on, its quite like an oil thread, with lots of anecdotes from everyone about why one is better than the other. My experience has been that way... had that early bad experience with LiPo, leaving me stranded a couple times, and some wise old KTM techs supporting that LiPo was junk. But since that time a number of years ago, am now instead having very good success with LiPo, and lots of other folks supporting that reality/view, along with touting the light weight and size. I’ll offer based on my own narrow experience, that if a LiPo gets too low on Voltage, such as in an application that has a small parasite draw even when the bike is off, it seems they don’t like to come away happy from that experience, unlike the AGM which have great recovery techniques one can use (as Docc and others have nicely explored and laid out). In my ADV bike that lives out of state and for which i want the highest reliability and no surprises, I’ve stuck with Odyssey. For the bikes in the shop at home that get trotted out seasonally and that i mess with a lot more in my own shop, I’ve become fond of the LiPo’s for their easy in & out and light weight, and the fact that once you get a handle on how they work they really are very reliable. For what its worth, several Cagiva fans I know of in your neck of the woods (UK) have voiced strong support for Motobatt as a brand.

I bought my first V11, which is a 2002/03 black frame, but with the earlier “short” tank only 4 years ago as an alternative Guzzi to my Griso, I’d always liked the classic look of the V11, and IMHO they were the last “raw big blocks”, as much as I like the Griso, the CARC bikes just feel smoother. Then around a year later I bought a V11 Le Mans, then another year on I decided I’d quite like an early red framed V11, I found a fantastic Silver 5000 miler in great condition, bought that. Then only a month or so after getting the red framed V11, a Ross’s Corsa came up for sale, and it was too good an opportunity to pass, so I bought that. Then earlier this year I was seriously looking at an early carb 1100 Sport, but I couldn’t get on with the riding position, so I passed on that and shortly afterwards spotted this 1999 greenie for sale. For various reasons I felt it would be a great purchase, even though I already have a near mint silver 1999 red frame, and here I am with 2 red frames, 3 black frames and Griso. I do plan to downsize & sell the V11 Le Mans this year, since I bought the Rosso Corsa, so I’ll be back down to 4 V11’s

When I was doing the CO Trim adjustment it clearly says in one step to use the Kill Button. Otherwise I'm using the ignition switch, as instructed.

On a V11, you cannot set the PF3C TPS from a computer. GuzziDiag will only show you the ECU's interpretation of the TPS voltage. If the physical position of that TPS is wrong, then the ECU will have bad data. Then the ECU outputs for fuel and ignition will be sub-optimal. The TPS is set mechanically by loosening the clamp screws and twisting the TPS to the datum position. See guru Docc's instructions on how to do this here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19610.

Just back from a 70 mile checkride. Short version: no change separating those leads . . .