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Well, I also need to slightly alter my starting procedure. The best result is achieved when you crack open the throttle AFTER you start cranking. Warm engine procedure; start with closed throttle, and open a tad while cranking. As for the "tractor" association, it goes back to 1976. I was in the army, and the extreme drought affected animal feed. My regiment was seconded to farmers to harvest hay that could be sent to those that did not have any pasture for their cows. We got distributed to farms, and helped loading hay on trailers tractor pulled. This is when I discovered that being a farmer had two major advantages: -they seem to always have wine available throughout the day. -farmer girls know their way around hay in more ways than one would initially think.... Both above perks helped with the amount of blisters I got from using a pitching fork....

I have been also following the German "mother forum" for GuzziDiag always. Some notes from there: " - you cannot upload the mapping of 15M to 15RC - copying the tables of the 15M into the 15RC is possible, the partially different addresses of the tables and scalars have to be taken into account (I understand that this means, that the copying of a single table from a bin file to another bin file is technically possible inside TunerPro, but the tables are not interchangeable with each other 1:1) - the contexts are much more complex and multi-layered on the 15RC than on the "simple" 15M, the key to understanding lies in the program code " So 15M/15RC mapping not interchangeable. If I remember right, the writer tool does not allow to write "a wrong map" into the ecu ? For example GuzziDiag does not connect, if a wrong ecu (like 15RC instead of 15M) is chosen.

I doubt they could put Asterix on anything without paying a lot of money to the copyright owners. Besides, I like that an obscure little artisan that produces sardines in tin foil boxes made the effort to put a Guzzi in the picture.

swapped relays, checked fuse block 2, then went back and checked block 1 on your advice. All clean, solid, and no change. All along I can hear the relays clicking, so with that plus doing the relay swap making no change, more likely the pump itself?

I woud check the + suply from under the fuse box, fuse 1 and 2. Feeds relay 5. D IPA time Cheers Tom.

swap relay 5

Wine on a farm, in Texas? Sounds like a twighlight zone episode. Cheap beer for dinner was the highlight of our day (evening) in the summer farm season up here. But at that age I would have treated all those beverage options the same…. Homer Simpson style.

It could be this one...

I found a photo of Anne-France on her mythical Moto-Guzzi.

Update... Grinded on the welds and they fit now no problem... Polished up the marks and they are already starting to turn the nice gold color.

I looked at the ignition map from the .bin file Meinolf posted here about 4 years ago and the ignition numbers around the area we are talking about are nothing like the std map FWIW. Caveat to this though, when I looked at the main fuel map it looked a bit weird so I dont know what the issue is there, maybe my IT skills. The ignition map looked normal but very different to std. He also uses different throttle and rpm load points as well. Maybe he'll be along to explain at some point. Ciao

Great bike. Fortunately, I have not had to learn much about it yet. But parts diagrams are always helpful. Here's one that shows a gear position sensor.

If you read the narrative, they are celebrating the one hundred years of operation of the brand, and as in the quote above, they wanted to "wink" at a prestigious Italian brand going through their centennial this year.

My bike had a 3000 rpm hiccup, which went away after I fitted new rubbers between the throttle bodies and the heads (mentioned by Jaap), and set the valve clearance wider than spec. But EMI interference is an interesting thought. You can reduce this by avoiding any parallel runs of cables next to the leads, or increasing the gap between the cables and leads. Double the gap, quarter the EMI.

The engine obviously has issues around this rpm/Throttle angle which is probably a combination of combustion chamber shape and burn speed, intake tract length, cam timing, header size and collector design. A "problem area". I don't know whether the hiccup is the engine missing an ignition ( skipping a beat for fuelling and ignition interplay) event OR it is "loading up" and coughing back into the inlet either because of a really slow fuel burn due to the much reduced advance that has the combustion still happening when the inlet valve opens again on the overlap. From my memory of my original engine it feels like the latter, a small cough back into the inlet on 1 cylinder. Adjusting the fuel could well mitigate it to a certain extent as might changes in engine and OAT. Just random thoughts but I'd be interested to see what effect an ignition advance change has. The Daytona engine FWIW has totally different mapping in that area which is to be expected I suppose. Ciao

If the stock flanges don't work either, then the weld is just a little sloppy. Find the high spots and grind 'em off. The stainless weld will polish up like chrome if it bothers you. (surely those are stainless?) Nice pipes and flanges btw.

Yea maybe. The OP should measure the ID and OD and see what the interference is. If it's 2mm or something that's a compatibility issue but .2mm is just production tolerances. Ciao

Makes me wonder if they are so close as to put the flanges in the oven at a couple hundred degrees Fahrenheit and spray the header weld with some "Freeze Spray", a little smear of grease inside the flange, wiggle&smack = and "Bob's yer Uncle" . . . .

I would tend agree Docc that its just a matter of my girl needing a little attention (she’s a selfish girl sometimes….), and perhaps its less about a single flaw and more about getting things all lined up properly. And you got me on the CO ‘drift”…. You’re right, that’s not a wear-and-tear thing… touché, i just got too loose with my postulating. Get a few drinks it me and it’ll get even looser… we’ll be talking MG fetzer valves and framostats in no time. And P6x, are you implying i should replace the glow plugs on my Guzzi? I like the tractor analogy! In all seriousness, i certainly agree that some temp/humidity combo effects how she runs, where some days they will run perfectly with no burbles or flat spots while other (usually hotter) days little hiccups are apparent, but starting has always been about the same on the guzzi’s, as they’re almost freakishly reliable in how they start, all 3 of them, in all weather, whether they’ve been run the day before or sitting all winter. In that way, they are like my diesel machines (though maybe your IH and Deere are gas? ).

Tempo fa ho letto questo articolo su Alison Cutlan https://wide.piaggiogroup.com/articles/people/alison-la-sua-moto-guzzi-e-le-altre-miss-fires/index.html https://www.nytimes.com/2014/03/31/nyregion/for-the-miss-fires-motorcycle-crew-hugs-instead-of-handshakes.html

I gotta admit it. The more I see it the more I like it.. But still can't wait to see a naked variant.

Me too. Who knew I would be still nursing this sorry-ass, maligned 2000 Guzzi Sport after all this time. It's valve train was supposed to burn up at 24,000 miles. What a piss-poor, sorry excuse for a Guzzi. Just please don't tell her. She doesn't know about the histrionics . . . .