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I was in a similar situation. Turned out that the cam gears on the gearbox cover assembly were off by one tooth. I could only get to first and second gear. The divot for the neutral sensor was close enough that the neutral light still worked. I originally drew lines on the cam gears to mark neutral but they might have been rubbed off during reassembly. I then noticed a dimple on each cam gear that marked 1st gear so I lined those up to fix the problem. MartyNZ has a good picture of his above, but certain versions might not have those built in dimples. Also, it's a good idea to check each of the wire springs in the cover assembly. They have very specific routings and can fall out of place. And don't forget about the two stop plates that prevent shifting beyond 1st and 6th gears. Those can fall out of place too. Once you have the cover assembly back together turn the large cam gears by hand and look carefully how everything moves from 1st through 6th gear. Do a test fitting before adding fluids and sealing everything back up. The cover should go on without force, just a little jiggling to work it into place. With the rear wheel off the ground you can turn it and shift through all the gears. The engine does not need to be running.

While we are looking at the gearbox selector mechanism, here is a reminder of some collected wisdom about the selector pawl arm and its troublesome spring.

With a LiPo battery in cold climes you need to turn the headlight on for a minute or two before you try and crank the big twin to warm the battery up. This is the accepted process. Ciao

It has been a while since I have had my cover off but from memory there is only one position that the 4 dowels can be in for the cover to fit correctly. I got it wrong once and cracked my cover by tightening it up with the dowels incorrectly aligned. If you still have your cover on the bike have a close look at your gear linkages on the up shift. Make sure nothing is binding preventing the up shift, the starter is really close to the linkages. Hopefully you only have one of the connecting fittings reversed and it is catching on the starter, preventing an up shift past neutral. Rob

Here is what my gears looked like when in neutral. I hope this helps.

Sounds like that other big spring is not correctly installed, ask how I now. Goes easy thru all gears with the plate in your hand. Only first, and neutral on the bike. Just my suqestion. Cheers Tom.

So you have aligned the dots on the gear wheels and then shifted the mechanism into neutral to fit? It's hard to see on your low res image but it looks to be a tooth out to me. Ciao

I have added a Google Map with all the required stops for this year's Texas tour in my OP. This is my fourth stop, #31.

I run Odyssey batteries in some things, like the V11 and our Jeep. I run Lithium batteries in other things where appropriate. There are times when a Lithium battery makes sense. But there are times where the increased cost and cold weather issues don't. In some applications the reduced weight of a Lithium battery is an advantage. And applications where the small size required means the Lithium battery is the better option. Like the wife's Ducati Monster. There is no good lead acid battery that will fit in that small space and deliver the desired power. So it now has a Lithium battery. That said, I can't see as much of an advantage to putting a Lithium battery in a V11. But to each their own.

The system is basically, fuel pump to left injector to right injector to fuel pressure regulator. The fuel pressure regulator regulates fuel pressure by controlling the flow back into the tank. The more it restricts fuel flow back into the fuel tank the higher fuel pressure is. The less it restricts fuel flow the lower fuel pressure is. The system is pretty much constantly flowing fuel and recirculating it from the pump past the injectors and back into the tank. It is not designed to be a dead head system. It is designed to have a supply and return. The return is at the fuel pressure regulator. Of note, that exposed nipple on the fuel pressure regulator is just a reference to atmosphere. It is supposed to be empty, to not have a hose on it. It give the fuel pressure regulator a reference to atmospheric pressure.

So I was at Einer's this morning, and the fault was identified. It has to do with the left cylinder bank cam shaft, and only at cold start-ups. The technician called me to show me the values on the Porsche version of GuzziDiag. According to the 911 Doctor, this is (one more) of the Porsche component that are bound to need replacement because they wear off. Something to do with the automatic tension system of the distribution chain. As you would expect, they need to drop the engine to get access. Meanwhile, I took the Guzzi to make stop 31 yesterday, and no leak after the 100 miles return trip.

Lithium batteries develop what is called a “passivation” layer when not in use. cold environment exacerbate the phenomenon. the advice from Docc is very valid. Before you attempt to draw serious amps, warm up the battery by running lights or else. my company started using Lithium batteries from the 80’s. Working with SAFT to improve them. Of course we used our batteries for a different application but we faced the same issues. something that nobody tells you, but a lithium battery is best left “energized” if possible. A very low draw is better than a big surge before use (charging before use). we had a device that made use of resistors to do just that. I don’t understand why battery manufacturers don’t include such device part of their batteries. They are aware of the con’s of lithium ion batteries. Something else. Batteries that have been stored a long time on shelf before purchase suffer from that same passivation problem.

Fair enough - but in that case just get a LiFePO4 snowmobile battery - massive CCA & designed for extreme cold starts. Operating Temperature -30 °C to +60 °C Capacity vs Temperature 25 °C = 100% 0°C = 94% -30°C = 88% https://earthxbatteries.com/product/etz14c/ EarthX seems to have an worthy reputation on snowmobile forums.

Problem is, I live in the cold, New England. I don't live in Italy or Florida. I like to ride when it is chilly outside. I bought a Lithium Iron battery for my Triumph 1200, and it was a disaster. I'd get 3-5 cranks from cold, and almost always..."clack clack clack" of the sprag clutch. Installed a new Yuasa AGM, fires right up, first time, every time. Until I get cold start capability, I'm not switching.

And here is a picture of the selector cam wheels set to neutral. Note that the yellow marks align when in first gear.

Here are my tank connections, as docc said both of the under tank nipples are drains/vents. I have joined the two hoses that connect to these with a garden irrigator 'Y" into a single hose which is routed towards the ground at the left rear of the motor. This was done as my bike was a California spec one which had the tank overflow hose originally plumbed separately to a canister which was removed. My fuel lines are original so hopefully yours will look the same as mine.

Personally I DO tend to run at a high RPM through all the gears and I nearly always downshift for hard throttle. The thing positively sings at higher rpm's as well as shifts effortlessly. It's made to rev IMO. My bike loves me for it. I ride all my bikes this way. Also I don't give a hoot about mpg OR tire life. (other than to determine a fault) This is my toy, not my investment.

So, the under-tank "nipples" (Chin-pad/external pump tank) that exit the bottom of the tank above the spine frame: right is tank vent and left is "overflow"/drain. These should have no connection to the fuel supply/return/ "injectors" . . .

Only LiFePO4. Butch : Lead's dead, baby. Lead's dead. “LiFePO4 batteries are the safest of the lithium batteries, because they will not catch fire, and won’t even overheat. Even if you puncture the battery it will not catch fire. This is a massive upgrade over other lithium batteries, which can overheat and catch fire. LifePO4 batteries have the safest lithium chemistry. They weigh up to 70% lighter than lead acid batteries. AGM batteries will do plenty of damage to your wallet, and are at high risk for becoming damaged themselves if you drain them past 50% capacity. Maintaining them can be difficult as well. LiFePO4 Ionic lithium batteries can be discharged completely with no risk of damage. Charge efficiency: a LiFePO4 battery will reach full charge in 2 hours or less. Self-discharge rate when not in use: Only 2% per month. (Compared to 30% for lead acid batteries). Runtime is higher than lead acid batteries/other lithium batteries. Consistent power: same amount of amperage even when below 50% battery life. No maintenance needed.” https://lithiumhub.com/lifepo4-batteries-what-they-are-and-why-theyre-the-best/

Left. Cheers Tom.

Wasn't paying enough attention when took it apart, a spring here and a spring here, what coud go wrong , so hopefully. Cheers Tom.

Tomchri....sounds exactly like my symptoms. That will be my first check. Thanks

I love the juxtaposition of the jet fighter with the biplane and how the V11 fits somewhere in between . . .

Agreed.

Nice one!! Great pic! By the way, does your app for tracking mileage also give you an average MPH? That could help correlate then to the MPG…for comparing ethanol vs. non ethanol performance.

After fighting the voltage regulator, loose bullet connecter under tank and now this hopefully time to ride and put up the wrenches for a while.

I have a LiFePO4 type Shorai battery in my bike. For cold starting, they say: "If starting at 5°C, headlights on for 30 seconds will help wake the battery and increase cranking performance. If at -17°C, leave the lights on for 4~5 minutes before cranking. The result will be a better first crank, and longer battery life. If the engine fails to start on first crank, that first crank has warmed the battery, and the second attempt will be much stronger." So Phil makes a good point. The Shorai LFX21L6-BS12 cranks my V11 well.

Yes, once fuel is pumped to the left injector, there is a fuel line connecting to the right injector, and another fuel line from that injector to the inlet of the regulator. As mentioned, the vent and overflow from the tank nipples hang free.

No wonder I have struggled since day one of getting this bike. There is no hose attached to the fuel pressure regulator never has been. The fuel over flow hose from tank was attached to the tee on the right side fuel injection. The parts diagram isn't much help in figuring this out. So my guess is there is supposed to be a hose from the back of the tee on the fuel injector to the regulator.

Did that with my Triumph...multiple times. Didn't work. Not throwing away another $200+ to experience the same with my Guzzi. If I lived in Texas or Australia, fine. But not in New England. The tech isn't ready for "the rest of us" in less than warm climes.

That could be it Rob!

Hard to say about the pinging but if your shifting into 6th gear at anything below 100kph/60mph then you're looking for trouble in that department. Ciao

A perfect spring day for a ride out

Until you reach the margin of adhesion, the age of a tire doesn't make a difference in handling. But I've found that Italian bikes- 2 Tontis, the Sport-i, and a '74 Aermacchi 350- are all exquisitely sensitive to tire profiles. I ran 30psi in the front Bridgestone T30 because it had a nebulous, imprecise feel in hard cornering and I wanted more rubber on the road to maximize traction. (it never slipped even once in it's life) The Pirellis I replaced them with had much sharper cornering, but felt drifty on fast straight bits where the Bridgestones were boxcar-stable. I did notice with the Pirellis at the Spine Raid (Tail of the Dragon) that higher pressure, 38psi made fast corner dumping and transitions easier and didn't affect traction at any speed I ride. Also, any new tire has a perfect profile so replacing a tire with any visible wear will make handling changes you can feel. There is some ethereal feel to brand new rubber that defies description, something you sense but can't isolate. Maybe just in the head.

I will counter: During Winter, I ordered a V11 oil temp gauge/dipstick with a white face, to match the white gauges in my dash on my 2001 V11 Sport. They sent me a black faced oil temp gauge/dipstick instead. I contacted them, they apologized, and sent me the correct one, with a return label for the old one. This isn't a 750 Honda Nighthawk. I am deeply grateful I can get parts for my obscure Guzzi. I've spent probably $500+ with MGCycle for misc parts, and have always had great service, so YMMV. I'm just a guy who owns a V11 Sport, and don't work for MGCycle. I'm just gratful they and AF1 Racing exist.

Where is your 18” long, half inch drive breaker bar?

Here's a link: https://www.vividracing.com/blog/1x1-vs-2x2-everything-you-need-to-know-about-carbon-fiber-weaves/ 1x1 looks like a checkerboard, 2x2 looks like diagonal stripes.

I am rather uncertain about the weave size or how to measure it. My Mistral seem a rather large weave, but my AGV helmet is about the same: strands are 3-4mm in length x ~2mm wide.

Good idea, @p6x. Here's a link to a Google Sheet:https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vRxzY1vqEMO45avvdnr-WqJcQYiXi14UHwDzr2MFGGgFc7XFzgc8oiuVYhcOXydhyPUZxUBOxQMTQbi/pubhtml?gid=0&single=true And here's a screenshot of what that sheet looks like as I have populated it:

I got to thinking that once the prototype comes out of the mold, there will be room for others to sign up for the production run. I had also lost track of the current pledges. A scroll back through the thread shows: @FreyZI, @docc, @Lucky Phil, @Joe, @GuzziMoto, @deadpen69, @Tom in Virginia, @Scud = 8 black, and @p6x and @leroysch for 2 in red = 10 in all. (I'm not sure the shipping to the UK for @stewgnu, but my Joe Caruso timing gears are arriving in the US from the heart of England tomorrow and the shipping was painless, taking only a week.)

@Lucky Phil tells me he is in. I'll let him speak for himself on concerns about the weave and finish. Not sure about @stewgnu . . . . While this initial run is in progress, I am going to pin this thread (so it stays in the upper register of this subforum and doesn't get "buried".) I have also pinned a locked (no reply) thread in "Classifieds" to direct inquiry here while this effort is in process. Thanks, again, @FreyZI! Welldone, Sir!

Sounds like a plan. Good on you for taking the lead with this and putting your own money on the line. Not everyone would do that. Thanks.

Update: By my count, if I include @Lucky Philand @stewgnu (gonna do everything possible to share with brethren on the islands), we're up to 9 takers. Excellent! Way to open your wallets for purely aesthetic purposes! Given that number (and I'm counting on at least one more to chime in), there are enough on board to offset the cost of creation of the mold and prototyping and to get to a (subjectively) reasonable price per unit. I've gone ahead and told Greg to go ahead with the mold and prototyping. I haven't spoken with Greg about when payment is expected. I'll float the $550 mold and prototyping. I'll make up that investment with each member's contribution as the humps become available. Recall that we're looking at ~3 months before we have our parts. I'll plan to deal with logistics of distributing the humps, as safely and cost effectively as possible. Some (MD and VA) may be able to take delivery in person if desiring a reason for a ride to a convenient meeting point. As it will be some time before the mold and prototyping are done, I don't need your specific requests right now, but I'll be in touch with you all to confirm specifications. As the "not-gloss" finish will be at the end of production, its not critical to nail this down any time soon. Gloss is pretty obvious, but "not gloss" has some not-well-defined gradations between satin and matte. What I have been calling "matte" may be more like "satin". I'll get some pics posted of the "not-gloss" side panel I took to Greg for matching. Meanwhile, it seems that several of yinz want that "not-gloss" to match your Mistral C/F cans (which I presume are similar to mine). Again, not time sensitive: For those wanting the usual C/F/ look (whatever the sheen), 2X2 carbon twill weave (kinda standard). At the moment, I have +1 on red kevlar weave -- that is going to be sweet @p6x(BTW, HBD!). Thanks to all for your interest!

No, they would do the matte finish. Here's what Greg shared about the process, through my filter: The C/F parts that come out with a matte-looking finish are made with a vacuum process that pulls resin through the fiber, but also pulls a lot of the resin off the part altoghether, leaving a very thin part (possibly with teenie-tiny holes), but more susceptible to cracking. In a non-vacuum process, the resin remains on the surface of the C/F, resulting in a glossy finish. Thus, the application (by the fabricator) of a matte coating. I guess they don't have a lot of folks wanting a matte finish, but says they can do it (I left my vacuum/matte side panel with Greg so he knew what to match (for me)). It's a family business: Pops and daughter do the C/F work and son-in-law does the paint. Pops says he's really good.

FWIW, it is my Moto Guzzi "For Off Road Use Only" (Mistral?) accessory canisters I am hoping to compliment . . .