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While ZDDP is known to be *good* my bet is there are now other additives that will offer equal or even superior protection. Oil is good. I use it otherwise my engines squeak.

You have to be super-alert. The squeak occurs just before the 'Dogga-Dogga' noise. The 'Dogga-Dogga' noise tends to cost a minimum of $1,000 per 'Dogga'.😂

Yes the vacuum tool is connected to the intake right before the heads. I set the engine to idle around 1100 and tool didn’t show any fluid coming up through the column. i revved the engine to see if someone fluid will show up but didn’t . i will try again from scratch. bike runs great especially after tps setting but I can tell the throttle bodies are not sync thank you for the help… will report back. btw the v11 engine is awesome 😃

I've never been able to source a comprehensive TDS for any Motul oil hence I won't consider using it. If they won't divulge the details I won't use the product. The worry about conversion to full synthetic oils causing oil leaks is an old debunked story. Ciao

Corrosion to some bearing and bush material docc. Too much takes the oil in the acidic direction. Ciao

Not sure why the Zink level have a "range" of 1600-2000 which is more than is needed anyway. There is a limit to how much Zink is required and anything over about 1400 ppm is of no benefit and can indeed be leaning more towards a negative. A case of more isn't necessarily better. No Full Synthetic motor oil needs or should be built on a 20W base these days. This oil looks like it's aimed at the "old school" people that don't really understand modern oils and always reach for the 20W-50 because they can't change their ways. Like everything else these days there are manufacturers that are quite willing to cater for any market they think they can make a dollar out of whether the product makes any sense or not. We are living in the "too many choices, bespoke world" to an extent now. Best oil grade for a BB Guzzi. Full synthetic 10W-40/50/60 depending on climate and usage with at least 1000ppm Zink. I've run my 2 valve engine on Mobil1 0W-40 for years and the Daytona engine on Full Synth 10W-60 Penrite as it has some special needs. Ciao

Here's another variation about ZDDP/ZDTP. This is from a well known oil manufacturer based in UK: Duckams. I feel this one is a better article, https://www.duckhams.com/zddp-what-does-it-all-mean/ TOP 3 MYTHS Do we know how much ZDDP is the perfect recipe for our V11? We have spoken a lot about Zinc and Phosphorus, but there is a third one which is also important: Molybdenum

With all mounting hardware. Support arms with clamp bolts, and threaded headlight can mount bolts. All there. Screen is near new. Superb paint, clear plexi. $250.US shipped ConUS PayPal (friends, if you would please) thanks.

The issue is generally with "yellow metal" bearings such as rocker bushes and thrust washers but also to a degree with big end bearings as well I think docc. Any corrosion creates particle which leads to "corrosive wear". It's generally accepted that a flat tappet engines is fine with a minimum of 1000ppm but tests have shown that even 800 ppm is sufficient as a bare minimum. somewhere between 1000-1200 seems the sweet spot. Ciao

Nice! This may be some of the explanation of my 1200 ppm impression: "In effect, an engine oil that contains about 1000ppm or 0.1% phosphorus (approx.1100-1200 or 0.11-0.12% PPM Zinc) or higher, will easily provide the required anti wear properties for older engines. " But also, when the SG specification that my 2000 Sport was introduced under changed to SH: "When you add Zinc to an oil, you also add Phosphorus and there have been limits on it since the days of API SH (1994) when a 0.12% (1200ppm) limit was imposed."

Penrite have some useful comments about oil. Note the paragraph about the change of additive requirements since the introduction of unleaded fuel. https://penriteoil.com.au/knowledge-centre/Oil Composition and Additives/44/zinc/396

Ah, yes, to wit (and I paraphrase): > Phosphorous is harmful to catalytic converters. Not a V11 issue. > High performance, flat-tappet motors should still use high ZDDP oil. [Yes, I would rate the V11 as "high performance" considering that it is an end point development of the V700 designed in the 1960s.] And I quote, " The camshaft and lifters are responsiblefor triggering the precisely tuned movements of the valvetrain. Without the protective film barrier provided by ZDDP, the cams and lifters wear from the force of operation, negatively affecting cam and valve operation." "Too much" ZDDP does not appear to be an issue for the V11 motor. No mention of engine damage that I can see in the article, only catalytic converter damage.

Workshop Manual V11 Sport, is the one I grabbed from the Piaggo website I think calling for 20/50 The 5/40 recommendation surprises me, but I'm just a average bodger who knows little about such esoterics

I have read an article from AMSOIL that states too much ZDDP is not "better"; quite the contrary in fact, since they state it can damage your engine. Here below is an excerpt from the recommended fluids for the V11 Le Mans. As you can see, it is in line with whatever Oil manufacturers recommend 5W-40. But as with everything else, this recommendation is frozen in time. Interestingly, AGIP is now ENI, and they have a new oil line using the i-Ride prefix. They no longer offer Agip Racing; the only place you find racing is in oil specifically conceived for Aprilia: i-Ride Aprilia Racing in SAE grades: 10W60 and 5W40. Those are indicated as "racing" lubricants. For us V11 owners, I think the i-Ride 20W50 is what they would recommend. As you would expect, they only show the usual SAE parameters.

I've never looked into the various viscosities in that amount of detail. As I only use the bikes in Spring/Summer/Autumn they never see an ambient below 10C (50F) so the low temp viscosities are academic and don't concern me The manual I have for the V11 states 20W/50, as do all the Guzzis of that era, I don't know if that changed in later V11 models. The only reason I'd run a 10W or below would to reduce wear on start up as it would circulate faster. However that needs to be balanced with warm up to operating temp and/or running temp, as some engines, dependent on ambient and other factors, may not reach 100C oil temp I came across a formula for interpolation of viscosites and it's far from perfect as it doesn't work so well with synthetics and multigrades, but it's better than nothing. Using it revealed some interesting results. When I changed from 15/50 to 10/60 around 20C the 10/60 is considerably more viscous than the 15/50 because of the higher viscosity index. So when the bike is cold on the 10/60 the oil is more viscous One more thing on viscosity is not all manufacturers who have the same grades are equal, the Motul synthetic I was using prior to moving to Penrite was a bit thinner for the same quoted grade. If I was changing grade I'd at least put on a temporary gauge to get some idea of what's happening to the oil pressure. From my limited experience you don't need to run the engine hard to get a clue, as above 3k RPM there is little change in pressure. The Sporti PRV opens at 60psi and when I'm out in ambients between 12-25C the pressure at above 2k is always around there. With Zinc the Mobil levels are high, the Penrite is 0.124% by mass I'm assuming that's 1240 PPM & Phosphorus 1100 PPM . There was a thread on here where somebody called Motul to check (I think it was 300V but unsure) and it was considerably lower

The SAE J300 tables help define a motor oil selection according to your own environmental conditions. (refer to the table below) It is not all about ZDDP though. There is another parameter we should not ignore: HTHS which stands for High Temperature High Shear rate viscosity. SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) classify if four categories the oil viscosity: 1) HTHS that controls oil film thickness in bearings 2) LTHS that relates to engine startability (LT= Low Temperature) 3) LTLS that relates to oil pumpability (LS=Low Shear rate) 4) HS viscometric effect that influence fuel economy Because in Texas we seldom see temperatures below zero degree Celcius, I could use a multigrade oil starting with 25W; I currently use 15W. Of course, if I go to Alaska and leave my bike outside, I would need to do an oil change. The other side of the grade scale is more challenging to comprehend in relation to our "ancient" V11 technology. In the user's manual Moto Guzzi recommended 40, so we could safely assume that it is the lowest grade choice. If you check the manufacturers' websites, some provide a motorcycle oil selector. For those who have Moto Guzzi V11s, 5W40 is often suggested. But it is the easy part in our never ending quest for the best oil in our V11s. Oil manufacturers in their vast majority only publish the SAE results.

We're going a bit Off Topic from relays here, would it not be a better idea if you started a separate thread. [docc edit: Done! Thanks for the suggestion! ] Having a hot Hi Cam I've did a little delving into oils both viscosity grades and additives. The 2 I found that claim to have higher ZDDP were Pentrite and Royal Purple, both Australian oil manufacturers, I've no clue why. Currently I'm running the HiCam on 10/60 Full Synth Penrite. I've yet to get any meaningful mileage to evaluate it though. I've seen people stating Guzzi brought out a technical that the previously recommended 20/50 should go to 10/60, but on my Sporti I find that the bike runs fine on 15/50 (so a 20/50 would likewise be Ok). Purely anectodal, but I think the 2 V/V bikes don't require 10/60, they hold pressure fine on 20/50. The 4V/V bikes like the HiCam may benefit from 10/60 if they run hot. That's for the ambients in the UK, if you ride in high ambients then a 10/60 may be worthwhile. What little data I've gathered is from having a sump oil temp dipstick and a pressure gauge. You're quite correct though air cooled bikes will be more susceptable to changes in ambients, in the Ducati manual for my 1098 (a watercooled engine) it referenced a range of acceptable viscosity grades that could be used dependent on the ambient range. No clue if that helps or not.

I finally got a decent ride out of the old girl today! I was putting a speedbleeder in the clutch piston, and after removing the swingarm I found the bearings were seized solid 😠. Like totally solid. The pivot nubs must’ve been rotating independently within the races. You try and do one little job eh? So, once more unto the pluckin breach then! Those bearings are b*stards straight from satan’s worse dreams. I had forgotten I’d done this job on my last v11; must’ve blanked it for sanity’s sake… But, new bearings in (lovely fag ones- fags are so nice haha) and blow me down but i think the rear suspension is actually working as it should now. I kept wondering why I wasn’t feeling confident in the corners before but now we’re back in business!

I've looked at that and the V11 drive plate isn't robust enough (too thin a section) and has a tapered face. You could machine off the original plate and weld on a heavier one and machine it to true it up I guess or machine up a whole new unit and get the splines cut. The V11 drive bore is also different to the MGS-01 unit. Ciao

Hi, 2002 Scura for sale. Second owner, 8100 miles, very good condition, runs well, recent service. Lower kit for gearshift and rear brake. I have rear seat cover (not pictured). Asking $4500. In northern NJ, please contact me v11@kretz.net if interested.