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Had to share this revelation ( Not religious) with others not into computers. Life is about coincidences, Quota fellow called, what kind of mapping do you have. His bike, just bought it, was running like crap. He had been working in data, not far away, can I visit, sure. Compared his mapping to mine, went home, some adjustments, New bike. Yes I have been struggling with my Greenie, numerous tuning and TPS measurements, but not perfect in 2600 - 3000 rpm area. I have Meinolf’s mapping, but fueled up ca 20% in the T area,and a New bike . Now I am very very close to do this myself . Thanks Phil for the reminders, if I can. It’s hope guys, it will be a great Friday, IPA ready Cheers Tom.

Soundcheck:

Even further north received yesterday = 16days. Cheers Tom.

Try 34/36 and use the 10% rule.

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freshly powder coated but never mounted pillion peg/exhaust hanger mounts $75 plus shipping OEM turn signals..No fading/no scratches /no cracks /no damage take all...$50 plus shipping OEM Air Box.....$35 plus shipping Powder coated heel plate and bolts $20+ Shipping Rear axel..low milage (5k) good condition..no grooves $20 plus shipping Please PM me if your interested in anything.. PayPal Thanks!!

I love "patina". On "other peoples" bikes that is.

Hey, hey, hey! Stop with the "looks after a few miles " thing!

Member @NakedV (Mick) hasn't visited for many years, but left us a nice album in the Gallery, including this excellent image of the exact Sport we have been discussing (without the added fairing):

Got the refurb unit sometime when I was on vacation, charged it up and linked with my cell, took it for a ride and it performed flawlessly. For comparison, the old one was plastic, the new one is metal and matching the aluminum on my bike. It's probably 3 times heavier. The display is noticeably brighter as well.

YIPPIEKAJEE!! Overseas also received the mods. A new era of shifting is yet to start 🥳🥳🥳

Here are the relays I received from ebay. The description on ebay was "made in USA" but item ships from China. Took about 2 weeks. These obviously are "Made in Canada", aye. I think there are a lot of Chinese knock offs out there, and I've seen Docc recommend elsewhere on the forum to open one of these and seeing what the guts look like. I'm not sure I'm qualified to do that. But am willing to sacrifice one and take pics if you want. Thanks Chuck for the Lucky Phil Extender!

Great summer evening at the local Guzzi meet

This exact same thing happened to me about 3 weeks ago on my RC. Was riding home on a back road having a great time...looked down and saw my tach not working...oh oh. About 5 minutes later my bike started running rough, on one cylinder, then just died. I was able to find a nice Oak shade tree and called for a tow pickup home. Attempts to restart were met with no cranking. After checking all, decided to put in some reserve OMRON relays that I had (should've done this on the side of the road). Anyway, after doing a full tune up, oil change and under tank check on all the connectors, she fired right up and is good to go again. I do think it was the #2, which I didn't think was as susceptible to issues as the starter circuit. Andy

it's more to my Sunday morning music but I'll take it on a Saturday.. Jerry is arguably the best steel player in the world but I picked this one for John Hiatt, a man in our younger day who often played in a lounge I tended bar in. Bit of a bohemian in those days

Take my advice- since I'm probably only the latest in a long history of sufferers- use Craig DeOxit on all your relay terminals and use silicone (dielectric) grease when you assemble them. I chased gremlins for a long time, rejecting advice here from multiple sources, which turned out to be dirty relay contacts. Despite changing relays multiple times with the last time to the hard-to-find Omrons, nothing fixed it all until I cleaned and sealed the contacts properly.

The learning curve is steep. Clutch: As to the clutch, I recently had trouble with air in the line. Removed the rear wheel so that my fumble fingers could get in there. Most do not have to, but it is a bit of a wrestle to reach the bleeder screw. I thought, the line goes upward - all the air is at the master on the handlebar. So, I installed a bleeder banjo bolt at the clutch master and all is happy motoring since. Oil: Inside the oil sump is a screen. Since you might be in there, good time to check it and clean it, since the bike has only been ridden 1,100-1.200 miles per year or so. Since the oil filter mounts top up, I fill the filter with oil when installing a new one. Just that much less time for pressure to build once you start it. I use HifloFiltro HF551 filters, which are generally pretty well regarded. Use a good oil for flat tappets (like Harley oil, diesel engine oil or similar) with enough zinc to protect your cam. Shifting: A couple of "post-Guzzi engineer" members here have brainstormed a few things for shifting. First - in your case - would be the bolt-on "Lucky Phil Extender" which shortens the throw of the shift lever. That is half your problem. And, as I have been well advised, it is also a big help to preload the shifter with your toe just before clutching. That helps all that mechanism into motion when the time comes. The other is a shift mechanism spring, which most of us will need at one point - but it requires quite a bit more digging into the trans. For a tune up, you might try some iridium plugs, as I found quicker starts/less cranking. The rest is in the "Decent Tuneup" thread. Gives you something to do with all of your spare time

Check the fileshare section of this site for links to manuals and such. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/forum/11-fileshare/ As for the oil change, given that this will be your first oil change on a new-to-you bike, I'd suggest that you drop the sump (oil pan). To do so, you will need to first drain the oil and disconnect the oil-lines that attach to it. There are about 12 small bolts, and the whole pan will drop. Then you will have super-easy access to change the oil filter, which is a "car-type" I've been using one by WIX (cuz I copied Docc), but several other brands are also compatible. Many of us avoid the recommended UFI filter, due to problems with the O-ring. The main reason I recommend dropping the oil pan the first time is that some people secure the oil filter with an additional hose-clamp, which can only be removed by dropping the pan. This will also give you a chance to clean out the screen around the oil pick-up tube, and have a look up into the engine, which is just fun to do. After the first oil-change, you can decide whether to repeat that process or use the "man-hole-cover" in the bottom of the sump. As for the Bitubo damper - take it off and extend/compress it a few times in your hands. If it has a noticeable sticking point, it has started to work against you instead of for you. There's also a thread called "Decent Tune-Up" or something like that. A decent tune-up would be a great way to learn about the bike and improve the riding experience. There's another thread on shift improvement, but if you are new to motorcycle maintenance, you might not feel ready to take a pre-selector off the transmission. But when you are, people on this site will work through it with you. And for other maintenance - I would change all three oils (engine, transmission, and final drive). And flush all three hydraulic fluids (clutch, front brake, rear brake). The clutch is kind of a bugger, but you can get an extension hose that makes it easier for this and future fluid changes. And if you don't know the bike's history, it might be time for new oil in the forks.

About the only unusual thing in doing an oil change on a V11 Sport is the oil filter access. The oil filter is actually in the oil sump of the motor, and they added a "manhole" access port in the bottom of the sump to get to the filter AFTER you drain the oil out of the sump. Or some people prefer to change the oil filter by removing the sump. That allows increased access to the oil filter. One key aspect of an oil filter change is to make sure when you remove the oil filter the oil filter gasket comes with the oil filter. If it stick to the engine and you install another oil filter without noticing that the filter gasket was stuck in place it will cause oil issues with the sealing surface of the oil filter leaking oil pressure. A sure sign this has happened is a low oil pressure light that won't go out as it should. If the stock steering damper is working properly it is fine. Ours failed. That is not uncommon. We removed it when it failed and never replaced it. The V11 doesn't really need a steering damper. But if yours fails and you prefer the heavier, slower, steering that comes from having a steering damper by all means replace it with a quality unit. My wife found she preferred the lighter steering and increased feedback she got without the steering damper. But I can see where some people would not prefer that.