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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/03/2020 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    Joined the cool kids Sunday. Woohoo!
  2. 7 points
    Is there any other way that you could photoshop, so badly, such a cornucopia of ugliness? It really is praiseworthy for that, and only that......
  3. 7 points
    This is a long sad saga on how one person can be so stupid and how you should always listen to Chuck. I purchased a low mileage Australia 98 from Japan a few years back, HiCam engine and running gear identical to a Daytona RS As Winter was coming on apart from idling the bike to check as much as I could that all was in order the bike did no running. I purchased a Caruso pump and gear set to remove the "grenade with the pin pulled" oil pump and to a lesser degree the suspect OEM Aluminuim gears for the service shaft and oil pump drive, the OEM crank gear is steel. I also installed an oil pressure gauge and a dipstick temperature gauge. There were other things done along the way but they're not relevant. Come the next summer I took it out for a ride, the first thing I noticed was the low oil pressure on cold oil at idle, around 50-52 psi. The traffic getting out of town was particularly bad, with road works, diversions, queues and snarled up traffic. Just as I got by the worst of this I seen the oil pressure light come in. Went into panic mode looked at the pressure gauge somewhere between 5-10psi. Pulled off into a convenient car park adjacent to me, killed the engine and freewheeled to a stop. Checking the temperature it was in excess of 120C. Waited for well over an hour perhaps longer until the temperature dropped to around 60C and rode home via a backroad a cab driver told me about. On the ride home I was still dropping oil pressure and rising temperature. As I recall it was about 25psi when I got home, I cannot remember the temperature. Although a backroad with less traffic I was still limited to 30mph, so at no point did I really get the chance to get up speed and some real airflow around the engine. With the low pressure at idle I was convinced that the overheating and low pressure were linked and as the pressure was low from the outset thought I'd start there. The 2V bikes I'm used to will run cold idle circa 60-65+ psi. Cutting to the chase after pulling the bike apart several times, installing several pressure gauges, the OEM pump plus another Caruso pump, running multiple experiments swapping over all sorts of parts between my Sport engine and HiCam, dimensioning several bearings and journals (but not all) and about to strip it again. Lucky Phil stepped in and started to make suggestions on checks. These came to nothing BUT give me a far greater understanding of the engine architecture and I'm very grateful to him. Without his intervention I'd probably have had the engine apart (or in a skip). I also got a friend with another HiCam engined bike to install a gauge onto his and he saw 50psi cold idle. This took another interesting turn when Phil fired his blueprinted HiCam, as he had installed a stronger relief valve spring and obtained 105psi. This told me that the pump has more than enough capacity to support engine oil requirements when escaping via the normal engine bleeds & bearings BUT with the relief closed. When Phil then installed the standard spring, his pressure dropped to 50psi cold idle, so the culprit had to be the relief partially lifting early, that Chuck had told me about so long ago. I'm hazarding an "informed" guess here, but think with the large oil feed to the heads, not present on the 2V bikes to anything like the same degree, it doesn't take much lift from the relief for the system pressure to start bleeding down. Joe Caruso has been brilliant and invaluable during all this, providing me with a lot of pump data and insight. One of the facts made me go "WIDE EYED" was the HiCam oil flow from the pump, was the highest of all the bikes of this vintage. The pump gears are longer (all the pump gear diameters are the same) and spinning faster than the V11 or the MGS-01. So that's where I am now, I'm going to install a Setrab 13 row cooler, which involves shifting some components around & will hopefully improve the heat rejection avialable from the cooler. At the moment there is 15/50 full synth in the bike and if I still encounter rising temps the next move will be to step up to a 10/60 to see if the higher viscosity at elevated temperature will sustain the oil pressure. This was also Lucky Phil's suggestion and Paul Minnaert's on a Facebook Daytona page. I've still a ways to go though to complete the cooler install & here we're still under lockdown, so sometime, hopefully sooner rather than later, I'll be able to take it out and see what happens Just thought it might bring a little insight to those of you lucky enough to posess one of these wonderful machines. I'll update this as and when but it will be slow John
  4. 7 points
    So it's been a while since I updated this thread, but I've been doing stuff. Not "Chuck" type doing stuff but chipping away. Firstly I had a very minor oil weep to sort from the head oil feed banjo on the cases and replace the oil pressure switch where the gauge was fitted. The oil feed banjo was a real bastard to do and necessitated making 2 special tools. I hadn't really done it up tight enough due to the head being so close to one part of the cases you couldn't get a ring or socket on it and even an OE spanner had limited movement. Anyway finally sorted that and used my other special tool to re fit the oil pressure switch. The other issue was of course the fuel tap and I've covered sorting that elsewhere. Its now lovely to use and doesn't leak, hooray. I've got a new one on the way and I'll mod it as well. The biggest issue was the mapping and I spent many hours getting up to speed on Guzzidiag including reading every post on the Guzzi.de forum going back 9 years where Paul Daytona and Meinolf and Beard the Wizard behind diag along with Paul live. This is the home of Guzzidiag and there's a ton of info there. I'm amazed that Paul and Beard got the first iteration up and running in a few months, impressive. With my rudimentary understanding of the system my thoughts were to obtain a .bin file from a Centauro which has a 16M ecu and simply transfer the mapping info into the 15M. Gritman in England you may remember did the same engine swap and kindly sent me his map and I tried that. It didn't run that well and from the fuel map 3D it looked very rich. It ran better than the std V11 map but wasn't ride-able except around the block. I hadn't seen a std Centi map at this point so I had nothing to compare with. I gave Brad Black a call and explained what I wanted to do and he had a .bin for a Centi so he transferred the maps and throttle and rpm break points to the 15M bin and emailed it to me. At the same time thanks to audiomick one of the mods at Guzzi.de and a fellow Aussie living in Germany I was put in touch to Karsten who also had some Centi .bin files and generously sent them to me. I didn't end up using these directly to transfer as originally intended as Brad had done that in the interim for me but I now also had a couple of enhanced Centi bins to compare to what Brad had provided. All this is extremely useful if you actually want to learn and see whats safe to do. It gives you known references. I also had to buy a brand new ECU as the original looks like it had a failed baro sensor. It worked ok but I suspect it had reverted to a default baro setting. So today I loaded the new bin from Brad with the Centi mapping ( which has different load and rpm break points) into the new ecu and fired it up. A little ropey to begin with until I got the balancing and idle sorted and then took it for a ride. Straight away it worked really nicely, only complaint was very minor popping on the overrun. I tweaked the CO up a little from 0 and got that eliminated and it runs and rides like a champ. So time to put some miles on it and see whats what. Big thanks to Brad, Paul, audiomick and Karsten for the assistance as well as Beard for Guzzidiag and the guys that helped it evolve into what it is today. It's a really good tool and in my case has been totally faultless to use. Ciao
  5. 6 points
    Taking a tip from 4corsa’s earlier post, I put a set of TechSpec tank grips on the Greenie today. As pointed out by Phil in that earlier post, an opaque tank protector will show uneven paint fade over time when removed, but these sound like they work well and I’m curious to try. I’m not sure how I feel about the center piece. I may take that piece off and replace with clear. Anyway, here is what a Greenie looks like with slabs of rubber of her tank:
  6. 6 points
    Hey Chuck, Mine arrived the other day, beautiful piece of kit, tks very much for doing the heavy lifting to see this through to completion. As I sit here looking at that beautiful little piece of engineering, originally conceived and designed by LuckPhil, produced by Chuck, and reading through the extensive transmission related posts here on V11Lemans.com, it's a beautiful thing watching enthusiasts from literally the four corners of the globe sharing and supporting us guzzi owners, kudos to all involved. Respect and gratitude Kelly
  7. 6 points
    If you want the perfect synergy of style and function(as a spots bike) here it is. I've owned 3 of these over the years, 2 750's and a 1000 all new. This image is identical to my 1000 which had the same Marchesini wheels. At that time they all had magnificent and beautiful TIG welded frames unlike today where they are MIG welded. They were just as beautiful when you removed the bodywork, every bracket and detail was designed to be functional and beautiful. My 1000 lived in the lounge room and got ridden every month or so. I could sit there with a coffee and stare at it for ages just marvelling at how beautiful it was. I was single at that time and women I dated would be aghast when they first saw a bike in the lounge room but they quickly accepted it as you would a piece of art. Most actually thought it was pretty. And those that didn't failed the test:) This is probably still the high watermark for mine. Ciao
  8. 6 points
    So I've been working on the mapping for the EFI lately trying to solve a starting issue. The Brad Black map worked nicely when the engine had warmed up but it was a bitch to start. I thought the starting was down to setting up the TPS,balance, idle, and CO but turned out not to be the case. Since Brad did the map I was able to source another 3 Centi maps and 1 USA spec Daytona RS map which is basically a Centi map with higher rpm limit. Two of the maps from Karsten in Germany were both enhanced maps and the other Centi map and Daytona map was standard very kindly sent to me from Will Creedon in the US. These maps were a tremendous help in sorting the starting issue. The Brad map had the Centi, Main fuel, offset and ignition maps transferred over to the 15M .bin but the engine temp trim map and start enrichment map left as std V11. Looking at the Centi engine temp trim map it is wildly different from a V11. As an example this is the Difference in percentages between the Centi map and std V11 map for the same engine temperatures. I was starting the engine at around 10 deg C and as you can see the DIFFERENCE at that temp 25% richer for the Centi. This helped the starting a lot and the warmup was quite good.It stumbled a bit when the engine got to around 40 deg and required a little throttle monitoring for about 20 second or so and it rode nicely. To prevent the afore mentioned warmup stumble which was pretty minor I went back in and added some fuel in the 40-65 deg region. Because the Centi and V11 used different temp steps I left the std V11 temp steps and arrived at the new fuel values simply by interpolating them from the Centi map. The bike now warmed up really nicely. Once started the engine settled into a nice 1100 rpm indicated idle and was very nice. Initial hit of the button still needed more work though as i wasn't happy with that so I once again took a look at the start enrichment map. Both The Centi and V11 start enrichment maps looked pretty much identical except for the initial 16 seconds of cranking where the Centi is once again significantly different. Below you can see in the extreme RH column where I added fuel for the initial 16 seconds of the start. This is the DELTA map. The next thing was ignition advance. Brad had used the std Centi/Daytona ignition timing and that was a lot different from both the Karsten maps. The std was 6 deg of advance at 1000rpm which is what the engine will get at cranking speed but the Karsten map was 21 deg and at the next rpm break point dropped to 12 deg. I decided to up the advance to 16 on the cranking and the engine seemed to like this and the starting was now quite good. Better than I was accustomed to with the V11. Interestingly I have since noticed an 8 valve Grisso uses 21 deg of advance on cranking. The V11 uses 15 deg at cranking. Why the Centi only uses 6 deg I dont know but it seems to like more when cold. As is often the case when doing this kind of thing you can lose yourself a little with various adjustments so I may revisit the timing and see if it had the effect I thought it did or I got a little lost with the fuel mapping and the original timing was was ok. The problem with sorting an initial first cranking starting issue is that when the engine doesn't fire up on the first or second cranking attempt then it's hard to understand what the symptoms really are. When the engine is stone cold there is a lot of puddling of fuel in the manifolds and it needs to be very rich to accommodate this. The issue is if it doesnt fire up you end up with too much fuel in the manifold and that becomes an issue. The initial fire up is critical and if it doesn't happen fairly quickly you then don't know reliably what the affect your changes have made except they didn't work. You need to get it started and cleared out and fully warmed up and let it cool down again and try something else. takes a while and can get you a little lost. You are also dealing with 2 different XDF programs for the 16M and 15M which present data in different ways so some transferring maps to excel to compare was necessary. There's probably an easier way to do this in Tunerpro but being a computer Luddite makes it a longer process for me. Once again thanks to Brad, Will, audiomick, and Karsten for the Maps and advice. Ciao EDIT.....forgot to mention I put a 50 klm country ride on the bike yesterday and it went very well. Rode and carburatted very nicely indeed.
  9. 5 points
    What realy excites me is to ride my bike 'on the cam'. And that applies to any bike at all. Its just that you cannot ride anything modern and powerfull in such way if you want to be back home for your supper and not ending in a box or in jail. I have a few small bikes like an Airone Sport or a Bultaco 350 and enjoy them immensely when i can wring them around coaxing every horse availlable to stay 'in the zone' and on song. May be i am old fashioned and missing something but the Airone at 60mph is more fun than my ex Stelvio at 130. Many customers aren't looking for silly power and over prepped steers, technology is a lure and progress an illusion, give me two valves and pushrods please. There wont be any need to rebuild the head at silly expense or to remortgage your house to reshim your desmo. So for me, guzzi is on the right track staying air cooled and pushrod , keeping production costs down , but with the added value of a shaft drive thus reducing maintenance. As a mechanic, i cannot but admire the skills of the creators of those super rockets but it somehow lets me cold.
  10. 5 points
  11. 4 points
    Done now. Relatively "easy" following the excellent write-ups in this thread, Phils and belfastguzzis. Also helping is adhering to "RULE NUMBER ONE OF V11 TINKERING": "Thou shalt always remove any and all parts from thine V11, even the parts thou thinks must not be removed, for they shalt need to be removed anyways, sooner or later, to get to the part upon which thy desire to tinker" The old spring looked OK (but it isn't. See Chucks reply below.), but more compressed than the new one. Road test report to follow once the weather clears.
  12. 4 points
    Welcome back I too saw my first V11 Sport, in green, on the cover of a magazine in the late 90s when it was first announced... and thought it was such an attractive and unusual bike, which is what often attracts me to things others aren't. It stuck with me, and some years later I saw a green V11 Sport parked up at Alice's in the Santa Cruz mountains, and it was even more interesting in person and thought I just had to have one someday. A couple years later I was looking for a bike to replace my 1989 FJ1200, and although still remembered and liked the V11 Sport, I wanted a fairing for long tours and thought the V11 Sport just wasn't going to work out. But that was when MG released the V11 LeMans. I went to Moto Italiano in SF, test rode the bike a couple times.... and bought it
  13. 4 points
    I had an 1100 sport ie with a Staintune exhaust that I really liked.Apart from being very well built and had a nice deep sound it was really good torque and throttle response from 3000-6500 rpm. Now with a V11 LeMans I have looked around to find a replacement with those specs. to get the same result on this bike. So I ordered a full exhaust system from MASS moto in Italy 42mm ID all the way from cylinder to end of silencers. I got a picture of it sent to me before they shipped it. What are your thoughts on especially the crossover part? I have recently done a neck surgery,so I have restrictions to using my arms for quite some time.Otherwise I would just put it on and see what happends.That's why I'm posting this. I guess I'm just curious and can't wait.. Link: https://www.massmoto.it/
  14. 4 points
    Cymru is Wales, in Welsh. Dunno about exotic, but it's a great country. Took up mountain biking about 8years ago & despite the years, never been so fit! Try the hip flexor stretches!
  15. 4 points
    Worked on the Showa fork seals with the MotionPro 'sealmate'. Once I got the hang of it it worked well. However I couldn't get all the way round the fork leg. Bent over double & with a flashlight could see the seal had torn & folded under the seal lip. Hence the large amount of oil recently. The seal mate surprisingly was strong enough to pull the damaged part of rubber from under the seal. Cleaned up the mess & went for a ride. So far it's working as it should. But knowing that it won't last I've decided to get all the tools needed from Traxxion to replace the seal myself. Can't have too many tools. Thanks for the link to the Ohlins rebuild Chuck, it makes more sense now that I have opened up the Showas's
  16. 4 points
    Buncha pussies.. (shuffling off..)
  17. 4 points
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MPl4YQhTN4SxzGwtuMlgbNtMIsqPTOJw/view hoping to do what you like
  18. 4 points
    The organ-piped Agusta's are a thing of beauty. While not in a living room, this ticks the same boxes for me: Although the Italians can be pesky at times....
  19. 4 points
    Will see how long I be happy with the sharp angle, I do like the stock angle,, it flows correct with the rear section of the bike. MORE TUNING. Cheers Tom Sent fra min SM-A505FN via Tapatalk
  20. 4 points
    Middle of June, and still raining quite a bit. Good excuse to put Red back into the shop and get the new exhaust installed. Looks pretty, to my eye. I like the sound of all the exhausts I’ve heard on the V11’s, though I’ll admit I’m not loving these new Agostini’s sound as much as some others I’ve heard. Still sounds great, i just prefer the lower tone of some of the other mufflers. Also installed the agostini crossover. Many love the Stucchi, i have the mistral on Goldie, and in this case just figured I’d give this agostini x-over a whirl. a bonus of the Agostini crossover is that it somehow cleans up the look a bit more than the mistral x-over. Presumably because there’s no mounting bracket on the aft aft end, but it’s just noticeably more “naked” looking. Of course that comes at the expense of not having that bottom mount bracket for structural reasons... hopefully that won’t be an issue. I’ve not done a lot of exhaust system changes, other than re-installing stock exhausts, or just putting on new cans, but per my limited experience this was again a weird game of djanga, lining things up, twisting, sliding, and slowly tightening things up so they aligned. One issue i think is that perhaps the PO had slide the x-over a bit too far up the header pipe. No big deal, but leaves visible corrosion under where the pipes overlap of course, and i had to have less overlap with this setup to make it all fit (probably about 1.5 inches rather than about 2.5 inches) together, mostly based on the muffler mounts. So it left a bit of an eye-sore on those header pipes. Perhaps vanity will again get the best of me and I’ll spring for header pipes at some point down the road.
  21. 4 points
    I hope those bikes were pretty well trashed before they were "customized".
  22. 4 points
    S'xteenth Spouth'n SpineRaid shakedown rides are underway in earnest . . .
  23. 4 points
    Still listening to Rush again and again since Neil´s passing.
  24. 4 points
    Wrapped about 90% my 115,000 mile service (5,000 oil/filter/tune-up and 12,000 mile tank-off fuel and air filters). Fork oil change remains. Learned a few things and will try to post them in the right places. Rolled about 150 miles for a shake down ride. Over 90ºF/30ºC here today, so had a nice little picnic at a lovely spot nearby, Berlin Spring . . .
  25. 4 points
    It's only recently that I've noticed how sexy the curvy lines are on the V11s from the rear, but I must admit, I think there is a design conflict when the reflection behind you is measured in acreage not square inches, js,lol.
  26. 4 points
    I'm speechless docc you've set the bar very low there:). If you need mirrors that big you're not riding fast enough.Dead flies on the back of the helmet? Ciao
  27. 3 points
    Ha ha sounds like we're all a lot alike eh! I first saw a road test of a mark 3 le mans in Two Wheels mag about 1980 ish and fell in lust then! You never saw any Guzzi's in ChCh ( NZ ) in those days! Anyways fast forward a bit after travelling for a few years and lobbing into Oz, and getting back into bikes big time ( big jap sports bikes ) I test rode a mark 5 LeMans in 89! I didn't buy it as I was seduced by a Black and gold limited edition Zook GSXR 1100 instead, but bloody hell did that Mk 5 leave a lasting IMPRESSION ! Like many got out of bikes, married house etc ! Then about 10-12 years ago when the disease reappeared I thought, THIS TIME IT WILL BE A GUZZI. I couldn't make my mind up which one at first but circumstance and the universe brought a GREEN V11 SPORT into my life!! Love the bloody thing and I too will not part with her . Enjoy your bikes folk's while we're all still able. Cheers Guzzler
  28. 3 points
    Didn't realise this. http://www.engines.piaggio.com/one-new.asp?id=11 Ciao
  29. 3 points
    Great! And the more you start consciously squeezing the tank with your knees, you'll be taking some weight off your wrists and using your core muscles more as well. Beautiful bike!
  30. 3 points
    FWIW, cramping (spontaneous myospasm) is a function of electrolyte (mineral) deficiency or imbalance often exacerbated by mineral loss from exertion, heat/humidity exposure, prescription hyertension medications ("blood pressure pills"), prescription diuretics ("water pills"), dietary diuretics (coffee, alcohol), and subclinical dehydration (not enough water intake). While potassium is one of the mineral electrolytes, magnesium is also involved as are others, including sodium, manganese, chromium, selenium, etc. Often, branded supplements will contain their "title" content (B-complex or C), but also some electrolytes causing one to assume it is the "title" content providing the outcome. An example is the product "Emergen-C", a drink mix that contains a broad spectrum electrolyte effective for cramp control in many cases. It is not the Vitamin C that affects the cramping, but the electrolytes. Seek a broad spectrum electrolyte capsule and be aware that too much magnesium yields laxative effects. Be aware that B-complex vitamins (not so much B-12) stimulate the energy metabolism and should be avoided late in the day lest they lead to a bad night's sleep and a grumpy tomorrow . . .
  31. 3 points
    Bella! Stupendo! There's just something about that red V11 that looks familiar... Oh! That's why!
  32. 3 points
    70 mph on Brit roads 80 years ago on a Brough should equate to 120 on a V11 today.
  33. 3 points
    My Dad lived on a farm in Dorset as a lad, he often spoke of seeing and hearing Lawence and his Brough riding along the main road near Blandford army camp. It was rumoured locally he would go through a set of tyres in a two week leave. Dad also told a story about Geoff Duke racing at Blandford Camp, he came to a bend and saw a rider laying in the track. Sadly he was dead, at the inquest Duke was asked how he avoided hitting him, 'Oh, I just laid the bike down and slid to a stop.'.
  34. 3 points
    Look up the rake and trail specks for the original bike and then measure yours with the steel triples. I didn't know there was a "kit" for them. The difference will almost certainly be in the trail which will be changed by the offset between the steering stem centre and the fork centres. Easy to measure with a short straight edge and a tape measure across the top triple clamp if you have an original bike to compare to if not its a ground measurement.Sometimes though there is a curve ball from those days where the upper and lower triples have a different offset, I think my RC-30 was like this. I had two friends back in the 80's that both had 16" wheeled Guzzies both ex racers. One had a LM04 which he bought in Mandello when we were over there touring together and the other a T5. As I said both were ex racers and one was an "A" grader here that raced in the Castrol 6 hour a few times. Both had no complaints about the 16 inch front wheel other than the the lack of tyre choices after a while. I seem to recall at least one of them on the LM used Lazer tyres. I also had a factory Ducati TT2 back at that time I used on the track and it had a 16" front wheel and despite all the Ducatisti saying it was bad I never had an issue with it. The bike I mechaniced on in the IOM in 86 was also a factory 16" wheeled TT2 and it did practice and 2 races and then went on to do the rest of the F2 season in Europe and was never an issue on the roads or closed circuits either. Personally I think the 16" front just went out of fashion when race bikes stopped using them and people tried to justify it. Also Ducati riders especially and probably most others were used to slow steering bikes nothing like we have today and weren't used to the quicker more agile steering the 16 gave. Ducatis steered like a truck in the early 80's and Ducatisti thought that was great handling when in fact it was just a lot of stability. I remember my first ride on my RC-30 Honda over a fast piece of country road after years of riding the same road on my Hailwood Mille. I was just gobsmacked at how brilliant the Honda handling steering and suspension was. Ciao
  35. 3 points
    Ya know, someone promised to "bring a handful of Cubanos" a few years back . . . . . . then showed up with a tankbag full of cigars.
  36. 3 points
    I was curious ... so I took the chance to make a test ride at my dealer yesterday. Man this is a great bike, I did not expect this. The engine has enough power for such kind of bike. The engine and the gear box work super smoothly and even if it is simple the chassis is extremely efficient. My dealer (https://www.clauscarstens-racing.de) told me that he was also very skeptical about it at the beginning. He feared that it was a similar lame duck as e.g. the V9 Bobber. But even if the motor looks similar it is a completely different engine. Unfortunately my dealer gave up his Guzzi dealership after decades because of the poor Guzzi portfolio. He is also the biggest Ducati dealer here in northern Germany and this was not an easy step for him because he is also is a fan of the Guzzi brand like it was in the past. The current California models and the small Guzzis models simply do not sell up here. But after testing the V85TT he decided to sell those...and it works. He already sold 11 this year which is a lot for a Guzzi model. They are selling like hot cakes and do not even reach the showroom. While I was riding the red one another one arrived - already sold.
  37. 3 points
    Why not start a separate tank size-topic?
  38. 3 points
    Uh huh.. uh huh. You'll look kool on that..
  39. 3 points
    Took red out for a Sunday test flight... New exhaust installed, and sun came out a bit. With the new exhaust and crossover, she ran great. Arguably it’s a more linear throttle response through the rpm range. But it ran great before the exhaust change, so will need continued observations to confirm that initial thought. Mixed feeling on not having the mounting bracket on the agostini crossover. The start switch on red didn’t crank it over. Hmm. Played with clutch, checked if it was in gear, cycled kill switch, etc. Was about to pull seat and check breakers and/or relays, but one last try on start switch and she cranked. Started up fine then, and did again on shut-down and restart. Tiny seep from front brake Rez caused some paint damage to black paint on triple tree (sh!t). Veglia rpm gauge now has some slight condensation on inside of glass. Will have to poke around the forum to see how much I should worry about that... Still have the slight fueling “wandering” at lower rpm when at constant throttle. But a good ride and sweet running machine...
  40. 3 points
    I have similar feelings about many (or most?) of these custom-builds; see also what is happening nowadays to 70-80-ies BMW boxers or K-series... truly shocking! Beauty is definitely in the eye of the beholder, and I can imagine that some of the builders are very proud of their achievements, but it is definitely not my cup of tea. The V11 is a natural beauty and will probably soon become (or already is?) a style icon (and stands way above fashion "trends" like wrapped exhausts; black matt paint, tractor front tires etc....) So there is really no need to do these horrible things to her. One can also wonder how some of these customs ride....
  41. 3 points
    Yeah, I could murder out my Greenie with flat black paint...............maybe I could wrap the exhaust with asbestos tape too. Might put knobbies on it. Then I'd lower to the ground. Man, would that be cool.
  42. 3 points
    Nobody mentioned the mirrors yet:) Ciao
  43. 3 points
    Marabese is a hard act to follow.
  44. 3 points
    Cause they are now:) These bikes belong in the " because it's different it must be cool" demographic. I've never completely understood the "be different at any cost" philosophy. Modern choppers which are basically pretty much unrideable in the context of what is considered good dynamic performance are the obvious example. These type of bikes are a step up from those and born out of the strip it down and call it cheap coolness movement of 10 years ago. Just proves you cant fake style. Ciao
  45. 3 points
    Shakedown rides begin . . .
  46. 3 points
    Hi Docc, Thanks and thanks for the help & advice! Of note, is that opening the throttle plates to get idle speed is more important than CO and the air screws. If you had to open your air screws more than a full turn to get your target idle, opening the throttle plates to 3.6º my make her even happier. Funny thing here was that I got the smoothest idle at 3.4 (tried 3.1 through 3.7)and the air screws are for sure less than one turn out. I started at one turn out and turned them in to get idle down to 1200 or so and balance at the same time. Yeah, this whole thing has been a big learning exeperience for me since I've never used Guzzidiag prior to last month! Anyway, thanks again, I'm happy and now can enjoy the bike! Art
  47. 3 points
    Did someone say they didn't like bar end mirrors? They give the absolute best view behind you but they do add to the width.
  48. 3 points
    This vid just popped back up on YouTube. Always worth a watch...and listen.
  49. 3 points
    Well, let's see. Decided to check the TPS today and found it set at 300 mv with all the assorted goodies disconnected and the throttle body fully closed. Set it to 157mv and proceeded to balance the throttle bodies. Lo and behold found a clamp between the throttle body and the left cylinder wasn't snugged down so there was an obvious leak there. Since it seemed to run pretty well with all this going on it will be interesting to see how it does when I take it out in the morning.
  50. 3 points
    Thanks john and a dullard you are not. I read your wiring post on the Sfida and was impressed. The 15M is from my limited knowledge of such thing a very similar electronic architecture to the 16M but is only half the size and has the flash ability so no need to burn chips etc. You can then simply email maps to people and they can download it via Guzzidiag in literally 15 seconds to your bike. Plus you can make changes directly to the mapping on your computer and then load the file to the ecu without burning chips etc. Once I've got my map fully sorted I'll be able to provide it freely to anyone that does the same project or has a need for the same ecu mapping combination. I've got to check the cold starting first. The other thing is that the 16M would be difficult to fit dimensionally under the V11 seat. The seat base comes very close to the stuff mounted under it and It keeps all the original wiring and ecu connectors etc. Much neater. I made a special long socket to deal with the oil pressure switch by welding and machining up 2 sockets. Along was too long and a std was too short so I made one in between. There's an image here somewhere. For the head feed my crank cases were under machined so as I mentioned you couldn't get a thin walled socket on the banjo head and an Open ender also had limited throw so it ended up a little under torqued. I pulled the fuel pump off and tied back the breather hose to achieve some added room and made up an open ended ring spanner and a 3/8 drive socket with the side cut out of it. It's still hard to torque up but it's doable now in situ. I'll post some tool images. So, the special oil pressure switch socket I made from a 22mm x 1/2 inch drive and a 3/8 drive socket machined and welded together to get the correct length. The other 2 are for the head feed line off the cases banjo. Note the high quality ring spanner I sacrificed ( inherited from someone) the cutout socket was one of my old AF Proto sockets in 11/16 which as a good fit on the banjo. I have no need for AF stuff anymore as I dont work on Boeings or any aircraft for that matter so I sacrifices it instead of one of my decent metric sockets. Still hurt though doing it to a Proto. I'm leaving the Oil pressure relief for now unless I have an issue or i get bored. 60 psi max is fine and as long as the hot idle is around 10 I'm happy as well. Keep up the good work John, I'll be interested to see how the cooler turns out. Ciao
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