MartyNZ

Is that the Verner radial engine? How about a picture of it?

Bjor, did you find out what the problem was yet on your bike yet?

Huh. I was thinking that I should replace mine by a nyloc nut, or a pair of plain nuts. I only touch it when checking the throttle bodies are synchronized. It's not something I would adjust while riding, so it doesn't need to be so big.

How old are the tires n battery, and how full is the tank?

Awesome set-up.

Does anyone have a damaged fuel tank who can bear to part with the fittings on it? I have a spare tank with a different color, and hope to equip it with the parts needed so I can swap tanks easily. That is the reg, low level, and tap, with bases, and the nipples for the vent & cap drain. Edit: early tank with external pump. Thanks Docc.

Pump and filter inside the tank is a tidy installation, better to keep it that way in my opinion. Also look for split or leaking hoses inside the tank. Immersed fuel hoses are made of different material than normal fuel hoses, which will degrade inside a tank. This is something to look for if a previous owner changed things.

I suppose that you don't have a V11 because @Tomchri owns most of the V11s in Norway.

If it's not an electrical issue mentioned by Pressureangle, you could try adding two stroke oil to the fuel. If the pump changes tone with lubrication, maybe it's time to get a new one. I wonder what a partly blocked fuel filter would do to pump noise.

NW of Glendhu Bay

I use the sight glass to set the level when the bike is on the maintenance stand. When I had Redline heavy shockproof in there, it took several minutes for the level to stabilize in the window and it's really hard to hold the bike level while looking at the window. If the bike is on the side stand when you fill to the window, then I think that it is overfilled, and oil leaks become more likely. I'm not using Redline any more.

Yes, I had the same problem. It unscrews easily. Use a socket, as I think it is a plastic fitting. Cleaning is a bit awkward, as the window is only accessible through small holes. I cleaned mine by squirting WD-40 using a nozzle extension straw. Maybe @Rolf Halvorsen can offer better advice, as he has repaired gearboxes.

Pete Roper had a warning about this: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21981-scura-build/page/4/#elControls_260340_menu

I'm going to experiment with 45-63mm reducing silicon rubber elbows. 63 is too big to fit in there but may work after trimming to fit. I like the idea of long induction pipes to help collect cool air ahead of the engine. A downward bend should reduce the road spray, grit, and bumblebees getting to the filter.

I added pictures to illustrate the remote grounding point. Not only does this move sparks away from the battery and fuel system, but it also adds a tiny resistance to the circuit to avoid large currents buckling the discharged battery plates. However I'm not convinced that there is any need to isolate the regulator. See previous topic: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20617-charging-the-battery-hooked-up-in-the-bike-bad-idea/#elControls_236544_menu

True. Well spotted. Although normally those little screw-on covers are fitted to protect against shorts. Then I always follow the golden rule: " disconnect negative first, reconnect negative last"

I did the same as Tom; added terminal blocks. A jumper goes to each battery terminal, so there are only 2 connections to each battery terminal.

When I first saw a Guzzi, I liked it's design. Two cylinders angled out into the airstream. Equal cooling on the hot side of each cylinder head. No shared cyl wall like many twins, no rear cyl running hotter like HD & Ducati. Like a BMW twin, but cooler looking, with more ground clearance. Shaft drive. Less mess and less maintenance (or so I thought then). Dry clutch. Oil on a friction surface just seems wrong to me, and oil for engines and gearboxes should be different. Those features are no longer so important in modern bikes, but I still love the character and soul of the bike. It feels alive. I took a Triumph Bonneville for a blast, and nearly died of boredom (unlike the Thruxton R). I don't feel that way on a V11. Also I like how there are not many on the road.

Maybe one of these? I think @cash1000 has one on his bike. https://tlm.nl/search-results-page?q=V11+speedo+cable

Oh yes, that would have been easier to check first.

Versailles, France?

How about giving a clue, like saying "it could be a country between Belarus and Germany"

I used black RTV on mine, but as Chuck suggested, permatex is good too. A new seal on the shifter shaft is cheap insurance.

I have had success with many different sealants, and think that clean degreased surfaces are most important before using any sealant. Nicks, bows, scratches on the surfaces need a gap filling sealant. Any RTV silicone sealant is good, though not for fuel, with the advantage of black or grey colour matching black or silver casings. Threebond 1200 series is in this group. Hylomar is good too. I recently assembled my sump spacer and oil filter unit without gaskets, using Locktite L515 flange sealant, so that the side stand bolt would fit without slotting the hole. (I had just fitted a home made baffle plate). I have used gaskets dry, and greased on one side, usually with good results. Some sealants are also adhesives, so frequently disturbed parts like rocker covers and sump would be better not glued down. Greased gaskets or hylomar are good there. BTW, putting sealant on o-rings is usually a bad idea.