MartyNZ

I have a couple of boxes of nitrile o-rings, but no matter what, I still have to go out to the local seal shop for a specific size that I don't have. I stopped being so picky about buying OEM o-rings after a visit to Moto International in Seattle USA. I asked for seals on the fuel injectors. The parts guy grabbed an old injector from their workshop, then pulled the right size seals from an assortment box. Then I realized that Moto Guzzi would use standard sizes where possible to keep the costs down. As for FKM, yes it can be better (but more expensive) in some applications, but since I see nitrile lasting 20 years, a new nitrile seal should last another 20 years.

Are you going to rebuild back to standard, or do you have something better in mind?

I just read this: Deformed Motorcycle Fuel Tanks (deformedfueltanks.com)

Adventure Bike track

Congestion on the road from Mt Aspiring

I have thermistors of the right value if that's what you need instead of the whole receptacle/connector unit.

I had these symptoms on my '03, after the bike sitting unused for too long with the rear drive out. I replaced the 5 pin relay in the forward position, and now all good. This time I binned the relay, instead of putting it in with all the spares of doubtful function in the monkey paw trap.

True, although there's a more optimistic possibility. Moto Guzzi may wish that old V11s are scrapped, so you can buy their latest model, but if customer demand is sufficient, some aftermarket vendor will organize a fresh production run. We see this with some vintage car parts. And V11 gearbox springs. And Roper plates... Maybe soon Brembo 16mm brake master cylinder kits.

I wear a thin cotton balaclava that protects my hearing aids as I take my helmet on or off. The shoei helmet has a ruff at the sides and back of my neck, and a visor that seals well so wind roar is muted. The hearing aid receivers partially block outside noise that doesn't come via the aids, and are set to limit loud noises, so I don't use ear plugs. I probably should have when I was younger.

Some previous discussion here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/22114-front-brake-master-cylinder-rebuild/#comment-254615 You need a 16mm kit, given Phil's comments. And yes, I think a preventative rebuild is a good idea, especially if the fluid has not been changed every 2 years in the past. I found a rusty spring in my clutch MC. I haven't yet rebuild the front brake MC, so should take my own advice.

Try these guys: Ducati Brembo 12mm Front Brake / Clutch Master Cylinder REM REC Seal Rebuild Kit 110436292 KTM Aprilia Moto Guzzi (gothamcycles.com) Then search in their website for Ducati Brembo Master. You need to know the diameter (eg 14mm). I presume that you are a "certified brake technician"?

Greasing. Inner race of RH outer bearing removed. The grease will protect the crown wheel nose seal area from further rust.

Grease nipple NAS501-1 installed. Final hole dia 2.91mm for tight fit on 3.26mm dia nipple. I had to buy a pack of 25 grease nipples, so I have 24 spares to give away.

Drilling from the inside to meet halfway.

Drilling from the outside

@dangerous probably had a moment like that in 2015. When I first began to look at Guzzis, DD offered me some advice. Mostly beer drinking, but there was some gems of wisdom. I asked if he would sell his Nero Corsa to me. He made a choking noise, then a lot of profanity. I took that as a "NO".

True, and not just Airbus. Completely autonomous cargo planes with no crew have already transited the Atlantic. There is an intermediate step in the development from 2 pilots to 1 pilot. That is a pilot and a dog. The pilot's job is to feed the dog, and the dog is trained to bite the pilot if he tries to touch something. (No disrespect to pilots or weather gods intended.)

Yes, many older aircraft designs using cables from the flight deck to the control surfaces had provisions in case there was a mechanical jam or breakage. The aircraft still had to be able to land safely if say the co-pilots cable run jammed. Then there would be an indication that something is wrong, such as the co-pilot not able to move his control column, and the captain using more effort. If there was dual opposing inputs, then a mechanism like a spring cartridge would allow it, but increase the effort for both. This is not unique to the B767, but is not possible on more modern "fly by wire" aircraft.

A V85? Well thank goodness. I was worried that you might have gone over to the dark side.

I guessing that this is the US$ price for a US gallon. If true, for this side of the pacific, $6US buys 3.76 litres. 1 US$ buys $1.47NZ. So Chuck's calculator pricing is equivalent to about $2.35NZ per litre, delivered to your plane. As for the 44gallon (UK) drum, it is the same size as a 55gallon (US) drum, which is about 200 litres. Brought to you by the South Pacific Metric Education Foundation

It seems to me that the whole world needs advice on this subject.

Cheeky bugger. Don't forget that you still owe me a beer. And it's spelled sensor, not sencer, dammit. Youth of today mutter mutter...

No change. The Air France plane had an autopilot disconnect in cruise as it got extreme icing in a super cell. The crew must have been half asleep, and stalled it all the way into the sea. Loss of situational awareness. The pitot icing was gone in seconds, and just re-engaging the autopilot would have saved them. Sorry Chuck, didn't mean to hijack the posting from a Weather God.

Nah mate, remember that commercial aircraft are flying on autopilot most of the time. Then airline procedure demands that only one pilot is flying if flying manually. On an Airbus, if both sidesticks are used at the same time, the inputs are algebraically added (with limits), just the same as manual inputs to B737 control wheels, except digitally instead of hand force. If both sidesticks are used, two SIDE STICK PRIORITY lights on the glareshield come on, a loud "DUAL INPUT" message is played every 5 sec, and a post flight report goes back to the airline. Not only can both pilots see each other's sidesticks, three computers are monitoring as well. The pilot can't hide on a modern aircraft.

When I was a young apprentice, I "salvaged" a 25litre drum of 100/130 (green Avgas) from a DC3 going into maintenance, and put it in my Honda CB450. It felt faster, so I tested it. It reached 1000rpm more in top gear at the bend on Harewood Road on 100/130 than the "96 Super" of the time. I previously thought that higher octane was only worthwhile with higher compression or a blower, but there it was going faster. Obviously there was some other difference than just octane rating for this fuel to give noticably more power. I had just fitted new 1st oversize pistons and rings, and XS650 cans, but otherwise the 450 was standard. I know that Avgas has less volatiles to avoid boil-off and vapor lock at altitude, and I assume higher calorific value ingredients which made such a noticable difference. Note that avgas is not the same as 100 octane service station pump fuel. As for using 100/130 Avgas in a V11, I agree with the comments that the TEL additive, even in the LL (low lead) variant, will harm a catalytic converter and oxygen sensor if fitted. If not fitted, no harm to the engine, and possibly more power.