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MartyNZ

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Everything posted by MartyNZ

  1. Martin, (great name that), you might find the links below helpful if you mean the needle roller in the RH side of the bevel box. If so, you should be aware that the inner race length is important, as it is part of the axle spacer stack.https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19514&page=2&do=findComment&comment=216691 https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15908&page=10&do=findComment&comment=231727
  2. MartyNZ

    Maps?

    I'll post a standard map in the fileshare section when I get home this weekend. Rosso Mandello Original BIN.bin
  3. MartyNZ

    Decent Tune-up

    I would use 2-stroke oil instead of water, just in case it gets sucked into the engine. I used auto transmission fluid (ATF) for the same reason. It is just thick enough to allow time to adjust a badly out of synch engine without sucking it into the engine. And it is red.
  4. See here:https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19514&page=2&do=findComment&comment=217129And here: http://ca-cycleworks.com/pf3c
  5. A new Side Stand part number GU01432190 costs about $80 from Harper's or AF1, and €80 from Stein Dinse. My bike has a flat alum alloy sole plate added by a previous owner, and it is getting worn thin. It is held on with 2 countersunk screws. Maybe it is time for me to get a new leg, and add a sole plate to it. Then it should last a while.
  6. I think you had more than one problem.A melted 30A fuse (but not blown) can ONLY be caused by electrical resistance between the fuse holder contacts and the fuse. Cleaning the contacts, then fitting the fuse with dielectric grease will help. A maxi fuse holder is better, or you could use a CB like Docc did. See https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19672 The connections of the yellow wires can be replaced by crimp connectors & heat shrink sleeves to make better connections. On my bike the wires are long enough that I could cut and re-terminate several times if required, so I used permanent crimp sleeves. The fuse melting, and bad connections on the yellow wires will reduce charging current, so the battery will discharge over time. However, a bad relay can stop the engine without warning. Those mini relays seem to be short lived, so carrying spares, and discarding any troublesome relays seems to work for me.
  7. I wrote a comment about that back in post 27 of this topic, along with adding a grease nipple.I got a bolt that was too long, cut it to length, then threaded it the minimum amount needed.
  8. The symptoms may be caused by a bad capacitor. Electrolytic capacitors are the 2nd most common components to go bad in older electronic circuits, after "dry" solder joints. If you are handy with a 25w soldering iron, and have lead/tin solder (not lead free) you may be able to repair it.If it doesn't work now, you can't make it worse. A fist full of electrolytic caps cost about $20, just match the capacitance (mF or uF), meet or exceed the working voltage, and match the polarity. All 3 are marked on the heat shrink covering. New caps are often physically smaller than the originals, which is ok as long as you can wire it in. A bulged end is a sure sign it is bad. Remelting all the solder joints so that they are shiny, not grey, can cure dry joints. You might also check for "chip creep" where IC chips work their way out of sockets. Press the chips down into the sockets after taking care of static.
  9. I've got those sump and spacer gaskets if you need them in a hurry.
  10. There may be some additional helpful information here:https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20386&page=3&do=findComment&comment=232303
  11. After you refitted the tank, have you checked that a hose or wiring loom is not touching any throttle body linkages? And checked that the fuel pressure regulator is not nudging the TPS out of position?
  12. Like Docc says, that resistance change you measured is a problem. See the test graph picture on the Web page http://ca-cycleworks.com/pf3c Things will be better with a new TPS.
  13. When it is running on the RH cylinder, is the LH not running at all, or just weakly? A hand on the head or near the exhaust header should tell you if you have a cold cylinder. If the LH cyl is running weakly, it may be that the throttle bodies need synchronizing. See https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19610. If synch is good, then this is a puzzle. The ignition coils, injectors, and fuel pump all get +12 volts from the battery via the rear most relay, so it seems less likely to be the problem. The coils & injectors get their ground from the ECU, so possibly unplugging and cleaning the ECU connector could help.
  14. Hi Walterg. You say that you have a 2003 LeMans with an IAW 15RC ECU. I believe that bike originally had a IAW 15M ECU. Darryl & I found that GuzziDiag needs to know what ECU it is connected with, but you can only tell it by setting the model of bike. If you tell GuzziDiag that it is connecting to a 2003 LeMans, it expects an IAW 15M ECU. Try setting it to 2004 Nero Corsa, or similar model which had a IAW 15RC fitted originally. See https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17865&page=16&do=findComment&comment=219192
  15. I know that you want to regrease the steering head bearings before you go.
  16. You should know that fiber lock nuts have not been used for decades, so reading about an event on a vintage plane is not useful. Nylon locking (nyloc) in your axle nut is much better, and more durable. You can check how good the locking is by measuring the "run-on' torque. As the nylon bites on the threads, the increased torque is measurable. Perhaps another 5-10 Nm. I bet there is an online calculator to help. Having low run-on torque means that you should discard the nut, or use alternative locking methods.
  17. You have some options. 1. Leave the washer out. Not good practice, but better than having the nut come off. 2. Get a thinner washer. Any washer. Or make a washer with a rotex punch. 3. Get a thinner nut, or grind the existing nut thinner. 4. Torque the nut to the standard torque listed for that size, ride, carry tools, and check the witness marks you made. 1 mile, then 5 miles, then 20 miles. If no rotation of the nut, you should have adequate locking. 5. Bore a hole through the nut and axle, install split pin. To my mind #2 is best, and only 2 & 5 could be a permanent fix.
  18. The bevel box I am overhauling will have a little NAS516-1 recessed grease nipple in the housing which will allow me to pump an occasional small squirt of grease into the cavity between that needle bearing and captive axle spacer washer.
  19. Before you buy bits for your restoration, it is worth your time to look at the parts book for the 2004 model V11. This gives you part numbers for improved (but more expensive) oil seals made of Viton.
  20. I bet your local machine shop could grind and sleeve that seal surface for less than the $1000 for a new crown wheel.
  21. That might be a sequence thing: - years of slowly rusting in a oil free cavity, then wet with oil from a seal that begins to leak.
  22. Yes I think so. An oil leak at the big seal on the LH side of the box would not let oil into the cavity that the axle passes through, only onto your wheel. But an oil leak at the RH seal would flood the axle cavity and come out at the axle on the RH side, and around the spline on the LH side (then out onto your wheel). That spacer should be dry (or rusty like the spare bevel box I'm cleaning up). Was your axle wet with oil as you removed it?BTW, LH & RH are ALF (aft, looking forward)
  23. Pic 5 - View inside housing bore
  24. Pic 4 - Close View of Bearing, Seal, and floating Axle Spacer Washer. The comment in this picture is not quite right. I used a punch you can see in picture 1 to reach around the spacer washer and seal, to just catch the edge of the bearing outer race. When the housing is heated to about 100°C, the bearing will move with progressive taps around the diameter.
  25. Pic 3 View of Bearing, Seal, & floating Axle Spacer & floating Axle Spacer Washer.
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