MartyNZ

Pic 4 - Close View of Bearing, Seal, and floating Axle Spacer Washer. The comment in this picture is not quite right. I used a punch you can see in picture 1 to reach around the spacer washer and seal, to just catch the edge of the bearing outer race. When the housing is heated to about 100°C, the bearing will move with progressive taps around the diameter.

Pic 3 View of Bearing, Seal, & floating Axle Spacer & floating Axle Spacer Washer.

Pic 2 - Bevel Box open.

Pic 1 - RH Needle Roller Outer Race removal.

Which bearing do you mean? I have a bevel box in bits at the moment, so I can powder coat the housing. I may have at picture to help.

OEM Part Name: Front Brake Disk. If your disks are thinner than 3.6mm, then it is time. Moto Guzzi Part Number: GU 01613330 Replacement Part Part number: AP8133781 Brand: Sunstar. "Vespa APC Aprilia Derbi Gilera Piaggio Scarabeo genuine spare parts" written on packaging. Source: AF1 Racing https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=5809 Differences from OEM: Less spokes, looks like it should be lighter, offset looks the same, will report back after I fit them. Other Comments: Much cheaper than Brembo disks, even with $83 shipping to NZ. Fit fine and work well.

Be aware of this cautionary tale: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15937Like swooshdave said, you don't want any blasting grit inside your engine.

LED indicators are good, but you might need to fit an electronic flasher. Also you may need to rewire the green indicator on the instrument panel to stop all 4 indicators flashing together. The smoke lens part no GU06753700 is $9.50 at Moto International in Seattle. http://www.motointernational.com/store/parts/turn-signal-lens-

After distributing a few springs in New Zealand, I saw what a chore it must have been for Scud distributing all those shift springs, and the same for Chuck with the last batch of levers. I'd like to suggest that one guy could buy the next set of shift levers from Chuck (if Chuck wants to make more) and that guy handles all the ordering and posting to others. I bet Chuck dreads "packing & fondling" and retail sales more than making stuff.

I'm not Kiwi_Roy, but I wonder if the problem comes from an intermittent connection in the circuit from the neutral switch, sidestand relay (#3), run switch, ecu relay (#4)? I had some relay base sockets pushed back which made intermittent contact at awkward moments.

Does it stop above 2000 rpm when it is in neutral too?

An interesting idea. If you are right, then my thoughts in post 5 are wrong.The spine frame crankcase vent system looks to me like it should be an efficient oil separator, so your observation may explain why KGLM doesn't need to empty any oil from his extra separator bottle. Perhaps I should keep the engine revs high, so the inlet airflow pulses are shorter? KGLM, have you checked in your airbox for oil since you fitted the extra bottle?

Here is the link mentioned by LowRyter, http://ca-cycleworks.com/pf3c in case you need it.

Ian, I found the same in my bike. That oil and gunk can only come from the breather. Overfilling or cheap oil (foaming) can push more oil mist out the breather. Worn rings in my case (80,000km) make things worse. I agree with Docc's remarks about oil. Something else that may help is a Roper Sloppage Plate which will reduce foaming & venting, as the oil doesn't get thrashed around as much.

It may not be related, but I had a minor gearbox oil leak that was easily fixed. After I built a maintenance stand, I found that the gearbox was overfull. This was the cause of a leak somewhere around the top & back of the gearbox. I suspect out the vent, and/or past the rear seal. Previously I was lifting the bike up vertical from the side stand, then looking at the sight glass. With the bike held vertical on the stand, the viscous redline heavy oil took longer than I expected to reach a stable position in the sight glass. I might change to a thinner oil this winter. Also, I removed the sight glass while the bike was on the sidestand and cleaned inside it to make it easier to read.

Hey Jim, If there is still 4 more sitting in my V11 spare parts bin. If you let me know what angle you are concerned about, I can measure the others and send you another.

I used Sandstrom Lubricant, Solid Film, MIL-PRF-46147. Molycote 321 is just as good. But since anything is better than nothing, whatever molybdenum disulfide spray you can find in your local hardware store will be ok. Probably better actually, as the Sandstrom stuff I used should be cured at 60°C, (150°F), and I didn't bother. BTW, I got this idea of drilling the cush rubbers from Greg Field, who knows stuff about Guzzis. As Scud mentioned, Greg posted here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11820 I agree with him that the V11 is improved, and the drive train should last longer, with a cushier cush drive. But I don't share his view that engine braking causes damage to the wheel drive spline. I think that each 530cc piston slamming torque down the drive train every engine rev is the main reason for spline wear.

The hub definitely needs to be greased. If the splined drive plate seizes from rust, then the cush drive cannot cushion any more. You can see grease distribution grooves inside the spline drive plate bore, so we know the designer thought this is important. Of course some grease will get in there anyway if you are generous with grease in the drive spline. On my bike, I sprayed the rubber pucks and puck pockets with a thin layer of dry lube, and also on the large diameter spacer. The wheel stays clean, and the plate can still move in the wheel. I drilled the rubber pucks with lots of little holes, and only refitted half of the pairs of pucks so the cush drive would be "cushier". Also, an odd effect of rubber is that it does not compress much. If you squeeze in one place, it will bulge out in another place, without the volume changing (Poisson's Ratio for rubber is 0.5). This tells me that the pucks will be cushier if they could squirm in in their pockets easily, so dry lube helps. So to summarise, my bike rear wheel has: 1. Half the pucks drilled, half discarded. (optional choice for you) 2. Dry lube on pucks, puck pockets, large spacer. (optional) 3. Grease in bore of drive plate. (must do)

12 super springs arrived to my doorstep this morning. That's great parcel post service, across the Pacific so quickly. Thanks again Scud and Chuck. For NZ people, I have 4 firm orders from this forum members, and 5 orders from more normal Kiwis. So that leaves 4 still available.

Docc, if you are looking for an alternative if you can't get Wurth grease, BMW specifies Staburags NBU 30 PTM for spline lubrication. I think Kluber makes it. You can buy it on ebay Germany for a squillion per metric teaspoon. Castrol makes Optimol paste PL, which has molybdenum disulfide incorporated, another candidate which may be good too. If you have seen a dry spline which is all rusty, pitted, and worn, then you have seen fretting corrosion or tribocorrosion. You need to lubricate, and exclude water and oxygen. Grease is the answer.

Good question Steve. When I hold the driveshaft, the wheel has about 120mm of lost motion slop at the rim. I thought the bevel gears were worn or poorly adjusted, but no, all the slop is in the output spline. So I can say for certain that there is movement and wear in the spline. Grease will reduce wear, and exclude water & road grit. I'm not suggesting "so much grease", but I think some will help your bike last.

I think that some grease on that spline is really important. So important that a little cleaning job is better than not having enough grease in there. I have to fit a new cush drive plate, and a near new bevel box to my bike this coming winter. The spline teeth in the crown wheel spline, and drive plate are 1/3 worn away, probably because of lack of lubrication in the bike's 80,000 km before I got it. Backlash makes the bike uncomfortable to ride really slowly in first gear. I bought the bike cheaper because of this spline wear, and I'm finally going to fix it. I have been greasing that spline with Penrite wheel bearing grease, and think a little too much grease is better than too little on that spline. Cleaning is easier than replacing worn parts.

I have a consignment of springs coming to NZ. The 6 kiwi guys who preordered from me will hear from me in 2 - 3 weeks. I will have some spares hangng on a nail in the attic for those that enjoy the thought of riding home in second gear. Thanks to Tim and Chuck for making this happen. For those fresh to this topic, this spring supersedes the troublesome gearbox shift spring (Guzzi part number GU 04238300) in the six speed V11. If you have this bike, and you don't want to do roadside repairs, you might want to consider buying and fitting this spring.

I can cut the excess off all the springs for the NZ consignment, just to save you some work. Can you PM me to let me know how much money you want? Like the other offers made here, I hope I can take a share of your costs, so you are not left with having spent lots of money for a big pile of springs.

Thanks Roy, you are right again. My bike seems to be wired like a 2004 model. Start relay terminal 30 is only powered when the key is on. The resistance from start relay terminal 87 to engine ground is 0.3 ohms, which I hope means that I should be cranking for a while yet.