MartyNZ

It's possible to swap the low voltage leads to the coils.

No, a bad regulator ground will make the output voltage go high. The regulator tries to maintain 14v between the +VE reference in the lighting circuit and the ground it is connected to. A poor ground means the regulator case floats above 0 volts. I tried to explain it here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19672&page=2&do=findComment&comment=214421 Before you toss your regulator you need to read this thread. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19672&page=2&do=findComment&comment=214421 It is a chore to do this work, but clean bright metal makes good electrical connections. You can't tell if the connection is good unless you disassemble it. Even old star washers can develop corrosion under them, and cease doing their job. Especially if dust, moth guts, and rain collect there. Then you need to abrade, and assemble the connections using a moisture and air excluding grease. I use DC-4, Kiwi_Roy prefers vaseline. Either is better than nothing.

Good question. The answer is yes, it is possible to damage the standard leads and coils. If the plug gap is too large to allow the plug to fire, the voltage keeps rising in the coil until it reaches it's maximum. It may not discharge anywhere, and the voltage may just fall again. Or if there is some weakness or contamination in the high tension/secondary circuit, then it may flash to ground somewhere other than at the plug. Either way, you will feel a misfire. If you get a flash to ground, this electric arc could pass over or through insulation, burning stuff in its path, leaving a carbon track. This track can become a conductive path with less resistance than the plug gap if the misfire persists. Dirt and moisture make things worse. Usually we don't know that this has happened, just that a coil or lead causes a misfire, so it gets replaced. I don't know for sure, but you are probably safe with plug gaps up to 2.5mm (0.100"). As an aside, there was an old 1909 Fairbanks Morse stationary engine which wouldn't run, so I was asked to look at it. The "trip lever" magneto gave a good spark over 0.64mm (0.025") plug gap with the plug outside the engine. After lots of messing about, an expert suggested a plug gap of 0.15mm (0.006"). Then it started right away. This shows the effect that plug gap can have on spark, even at a low compression ratio of 5:1. Luckily modern ignition systems have energy to spare. I've been thinking about Luhbo's remark too. My daughter's Toyota has that waste spark system - two coils and four plugs in a four cylinder engine. Last tune-up, I took out plugs which had 2 massive earth electrodes. I then fitted iridium plugs, but my plan is to swap the paired plugs over after 20,000 km, so that the electrode erosion is evened out. The old timers who worked on vintage British cars, which had positive earth, said that spark plugs lasted longer on positive earth cars than the negative earth cars. I'm sure that is because of the effect you mentioned. The whole world standardized on the wrong polarity (if plug erosion was the only concern).

This picture shows the effect of electrode shape on firing voltage. There is lots written about electrode shape if you are interested in reading more. The workshop manual tells us this: "The ignition is an inductive discharge static type with dwell control in the power modules (incorporated in the ECU) and a mapping of the spark advance stored in the ECU. The coils receive the commands from the ECU I.A.W. 15 M, which processes the spark advance, through the power modules". This picture shows an example of the timing of coil saturation relative to spark plug firing. Gstallons, you are right when you say "igniton is triggered when trigger device goes from a closed to open condition". This is when the saturated low voltage coil current drops very quickly back to zero, which generates high voltage in the secondary coil. This event does not have a label on the graph, but I believe that it is at about -0.05 ms. The KiloVolts reached before the plug fires depends a lot on the dielectric breakdown strength of the air in the plug gap between the electrodes. * High compression pressure > higher voltage. * Wider plug gap > higher voltage. * Rich mixture > lower voltage. * Pointy electrode (or sharp edges on standard plug electrodes) > lower voltage.

Given your experience with the 1150GS and if I understand correctly, you are using NGK BPR6EIX iridium plugs in your V11, can you let us know how your V11 performs compared to the NGK BPR6ES standard plugs. Opening the plug gap, and raising the compression (assuming Mike Rich's pistons do this), both have the effect of making the HT voltage rise higher before the plug fires. On the other hand, NGK BPR6EIX iridium plugs have a thin centre electrode which will let the plug fire at a lower point in the voltage rise. You will only know the effects of plug gap by trying different gaps. If opening the gap too far causes a misfire, then the HT voltage is finding an easier path to ground somewhere else. Then you need to either close the plug gap a little, or improve the HT circuit insulation by cleaning the coils or renewing the leads. I like your plan to optimise everything you can. Tunerpro, with an air/fuel data logger, in the obvious way to optimise fuelling and ign timing, but I haven't tried it yet. Have you thought about writing a "how to" for Tunerpro? It could be something that would interest others. Meinolf mentioned a method of making adjustments to valve timing here:http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19557&do=findComment&comment=212299 BTW, if your heart is set on getting those red plug caps from Motociclo in Australia that Footgoose mentioned, my experience is that their website is a bit manky. Let me know if you would like me to call them to get them shipped. I speak fluent 'strayan. Edit...Oh, and I just checked, the standard plug recommended for the V11, the NGK BPR6ES, has a 5K Ohm resistor built in. So a stock V11 has a 5K suppressor cap, and a 5K suppressor plug, 10K total. https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9482

Actually I don't think your plan to reduce HT circuit resistance will change the spark enough to notice, but it won't cost much to try it out. If the resistor plug is 5k Ohms and the resistor cap is 5k Ohms, then we are considering the difference between 5k & 10k in the HT circuit. 20,000 volts through 10k implies 2 Amps, and 20,000 volts through 5k implies 4 Amps of current. However, Ohms law doesn't apply because of the coil in the circuit. The actual current through your leads is zero until the voltage rises enough to flash over the plug gap, at 8 times atmospheric pressure. After flashover, the current is closer to 0.01 Amps (10ma). So plug and cap resistance have a small effect on spark duration, but no effect on firing voltage or the energy in your spark. The things limiting your spark current are the coils and ECU. Inductive reactance (the resistance to current change) in the coils has a big effect, along with the ECU's ability to deliver 12 volts to the LT side of the coils with a very fast rise/fall time. If you want more power, then the usual mods are better, but much more work. I'd suggest starting with Docc's tune-up, then look at Guzzi Diag as the best return on your efforts. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19610 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17865

Hi Frank, PM me your email address, and I will send you the file. But first, you should make sure that your virus scanner is not overly sensitive, and deleting the file. I think someone on this forum reported something similar when he tried to run the reader. Try opening the zip file on another computer, or after temporarily disabling your anti-virus program. If it is your anti-virus program causing the problem, then it will also delete the file I send to you as an email attachment.

Um, no, but I can give you some 35mm film.

what is That?Footgoose, don't worry about the Flux Capacitor that JRD mentioned. You only need that optional accessory if you plan on time travelling. It enables you go "Back to the Future". Since you had to ask, it is apparent that you shouldn't attempt time travel yourself, without first talking to JRD. Disrupting space-time is serious stuff. Of course there are some cynical critics who say that riding a Guzzi is like a step back in time, so it may be that this undocumented feature is not as secret as I thought. Perhaps accounts of Guzzi time travel are just gossip started by 4cyl Jap bike riders to ward off the (sometimes fatal) boredom those guys suffer from. ...or is it gossip? Time travel seems to me to be the only plausible explanation for how Scud reached 183 MPH on his bike before he even got it out of the garage. GPS doesn't lie... http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19038&page=13&do=findComment&comment=221768

PM me with your email address and I will send you a stock map. But you could do better, depending on the configuration of the bike: what air filters, what crossover, exhaust...See the experience Jazzamoto reported in this post: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17865&page=17&do=findComment&comment=219607 Actually that whole topic should be quite useful for you.

Is it for the intake air temp sensor on the airbox?

Some suggestions: The sound could be could be a pad vibrating, caused when one piston is not moving as much as it's paired piston. If so, then the answer is to take the wheel off, remove the pads, and clean around the pistons in the calipers, and clean/degreased the pads and pins. Free the movement of all 8 pistons by exercising them until they all move the same. Little blocks of wood 18mm X 40mm pushed into the caliper between the pistons you are not working on will help you avoid popping a piston out of the caliper accidentally as you work the brake lever. Also make sure that the disks are clean and grease free. The handlebar vibrations could be caused by a warped disk. Just spin the wheel, and check for wobble. I couldn't see any runout limit in the workshop manual, but I'd expect that anything like 1mm runout would need replacement. Also check that the disk and caliper attachment bolts are all tight. Then I'd finish with bleeding fresh fluid through the system. Also worth checking are wheel bearings. See Lucky Phil's observation here:http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18641&page=2&do=findComment&comment=210595 Another thread on this is here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13947

I dumped my bike onto it's brake pedal and broke it too. Luckily it was in the garage, and no-one else saw it happen. Scud pointed me to one for sale on eBay UK.

Eastern Beaver in Japan has a really good selection of lots of types of electrical connectors, and other cool stuff. They ship around the world. http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/connectors.html Its run by a Canadian, Jim Davis, who now lives in Japan.

I think that the length of the inlet duct, and the shape of the bellmouth at the end are important. There is a filter that will fit, see the picture in this post: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19581&page=2&do=findComment&comment=215103

Docc, have you considered this Valpolini single plate clutch? http://www.valpolini.com/index.php/home-en/prodotto?&fID=1036

See this reference: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19652&do=findComment&comment=214733

When you set preferences in GuzziDiag, you need to select from a list for a matching bike. If you select a later model bike which was fitted with a IAW15RC, then GuzziDiag will report a 15RC, but may not connect. DD selects "02 Sport Naked" instead of "04 Nero Corsa" (which was originally fitted with a 15RC) so that he can program his 15M.

Yes, as far as I can tell, it will work. There are only two variants of ECU on the V11; the 15M and the 15RC. The 15M is an earlier version without a Lambda Probe, and the 15RC is later with Lambda Probe (narrow band ) capability. Both have the same electrical plug and wiring. DD fitted a 15M in place of a 15RC on a 2004 Nero Corsa without problems. There are a few different part numbers in various parts lists shown below, but the only differences I know about are IAW 15M or 15RC. GU01729530 ECU 1999 model. Mounted plug up. GU01729531 ECU 2002 model. Mounted plug down. GU01729590 Ballabio_2003-2005 [uSA] NO Cat GU01729591 LM/Sport Naked 2003 Catalytic Converter GU01729592 Ballabio_2003-2005 Catalytic Converter

DD fitted 60mm throat K&N filters clamped onto the outside of the velocity stacks (trumpets) that are already fitted to the throttle bodies. These stacks can easily be salvaged from the air box without damaging anything. You should aim to have long intake ducts, and using the original velocity stacks won't degrade your performance as much as short intakes (unless you are aiming for very high rpms). Then you will need to consider where to fit the inlet air temp sensor. See: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19764 or http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19831 You will also need to figure out where to route the engine breather vent hose. I believe in using the stock airbox and the pleated paper filter that Moto International sells, however there is a great discussion on K&N filters here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=6815&page=1 and http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18909

I agree that this is worth a try. It has worked for me with a Bitubo steering damper. It was leaky and not working, so I pulled it apart, cleaned it, and reassembled it with the old seals and ATF fluid. It still works without leaks a year later.

I googled "square section seal EPDM" and found these guys:http://www.alliedseals.com/square.htm They don't have exactly the right size, but come close. It may be worth asking them if they will make a custom order for you. If there is a minimum buy quantity, then I'd buy a couple from you.

I've hit the Rev limiter on my bike a few times before I got used to the bike. I don't believe that there is much point being on the red line when you have 6 gears. The Ti ECU apparently has a 500 rpm higher limit than stock, but I haven't checked if this is retained in Meinolf's maps. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17133&page=2&do=findComment&comment=184022 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18440&do=findComment&comment=196546

If you turn on the headlight when it is out of the bucket, you will be able to feel how much heat is blown off the heat sink fins by the fan.

Oh, maybe I'm wrong. Does your reflector now look different than the picture in post #69? Both post #69 & 92 photos look a bit like my reflector, and I don't see anything of concern. Is there any damage to the reflector finish on the forward side?