MartyNZ
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Posts posted by MartyNZ
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I've been thinking about this too.
As I try various ECU programs, it is obvious that exhaust gas analysis is a good way to test changes to the hardware and software on the bike. I suspect that my butt dyno can't discern a 5% change in power, especially if there is a change in noise at the same time. These guys have some interesting products that I'd like to try: http://www.zeitronix.com/index.html.
AFR monitoring & logging would be the essential complement to tweaking ECU programming with TunerPro.
The wideband sensor needs an 18mm port on the header or crossover, the existing plug looks too small, so I believe that I'd need to weld new ports on the headers.
I just need some disposable cash. Sadly the easter bunny let me down, and xmas is a long time away.
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... it looks like there's an issue with IAW writer not being able to search my Mac hard drive. Has anyone had this issue?
Also, In Guzzidiag, has anyone gotten the error message "Active Diagnostics Could not be Started" when attempting to set their CO trim?
I had some connection problems with getting the right driver for the cable. A cheap Chinese OBD2 cable would only connect to a 15M using the driver from the same site I got GuzziDiag from, but it refused to connect to a 15RC.
The cable I bought from www.lonelec.co.uk worked best using Lonelec's driver. Windows 10 didn’t get the cable working, but forcing Lonelec's driver made it work.
Once I consistently got a reliable connection on GuzziDiag, I have never had an issue with IAW15XWRITER. Dangerous and I both have succeeded in browsing for, and loading a .BIN file using a windows 10 or XP computer, but I can't comment about a Mac.
I saw GuzziDiag fail to connect to a 15RC ECU when GD was set to a V11 model which uses 15M. It just returns a message "switch off ignition" after about 10 seconds of no other response, with no error message.
Your error message could be related to a driver or cable problem.
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Motrhead has a lesson about loose filters:
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Hi John,
changing the EEPROM to adjust the CO trim is easier and faster than adjusting with GuzziDiag. The EEPROM Reader/Writer and the XDF is available on Beards website.
Cheers
Meinolf
Hello Meinolf,
Can you help me with a description of how to use this EEPROM Reader/Writer, and .XDF?
More than one Kiwi tried the program, and then reverted to GuzziDiag after flailing around hopelessly without achieving anything.
Can you help us dummies on the other side of the planet?
MartyNZ
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.. want to reload a stock map and start from scratch. Where can I find a bin file for the stock map? Is there a bin file library or someone who is the official librarian of Guzzi bin files? I'm looking for the stock map for a 2004 V11 Cafe Sport or a map for stock plus FBF slip-ons.
Hello John,
PM me with your email address, and I can send you two .BIN maps for a 15M ECU. One is standard, and the other is a Titanium map.
These will only suit a 15M ECU, not a 15RC.
It is possible that some of your trouble could be if a 15M ECU is fitted to your bike, and you are telling GuzziDiag to connect to a 15RC. The 15RC was the standard fit on some 2004 V11s, with a corresponding lambda sensor in the crossover. Can you read the label on your bike to confirm what you have?
Dangerous recently fitted a 15M ECU to his 2004 Nero Corsa in place of a 15RC. GuzziDiag only worked properly when we set it to a V11 model that used a 15M. The plug in the ECU is the same, and everything works the same, except that the 15M cannot see or react to inputs from the lambda sensor.
He did that so he could use some of the more refined maps developed by Meinolf.
If you need a standard .BIN map copied from a 15RC, I could borrow Dangerous's unused 15RC, power it up, and email you the result.
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Martin,
If you have a 15M or 15RC ECU in your V11, then you need GuzziDiag. A 2001 most likely has a 15M. Currently the latest GuzziDiag version is V0.47.
Select the version for your computer operating system.
If you bought the Lonelec cable (I recommend their well made and reliable package) then you should download the driver from their website. Even though windows 10 should make the cable work, I've seen W10 fail to connect till you visit Lonelec's site. The cable comes with good instructions.
The old Windows XP netbook I use works well, with a rock solid connection to the ECU, so you don't need a new or powerful computer.
The cable and GuzziDiag will let you do diagnostic checks and troubleshooting on your V11. It will also let you adjust your CO (fuel) trim. Here is the tutorial from Docc: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19641
Once you get to that point, you are ready to save a copy of your .BIN file onto your computer using IAW15XREADER. This allows you to revert to the original .BIN file if you don't like any other .BIN you loaded.
If you have another .BIN to load, you need IAW15XWRITER. This lets you overwrite the .BIN on the ECU with another.
If you have a 15M ECU, then you could ask Meinolf if he could offer you a suitable .BIN for your bike.
I'm on my 3rd .BIN, and my bike has improved from a cantankerous bitch to an awesome machine. Docc's Decent Tuneup guide can take some of the credit, but Meinolf has transformed my ECU from a croaking frog to symphonic harmony.
Marty
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And there is also a "New Zealand manufactured" sticker on the frame. Now that was a surprise.
-John L sends
Are you sure it isn’t a NZ beer label stuck on the frame?
I only know of one NZ built bike in recent years, made by John Britten.
My 03 V11 has a sticker on the spine near the steering head that says -
MOTO GUZZI S.p.A.
USA N. ZELANDA.
ZGUKRAKRX3M1...
I think that means that it was made in Italy for USA & NZ markets.
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Some experts posted their experience here:
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19660
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19814
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19792
There is likely to be more good tips you could find if you use the search function Jaap built at the top of the page.
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Yes, you can easily replace a seal with the shaft in place. If you search for "seal removal tool" you will see there are lots of tools that can help you.
I use one like this to remove seals while the shaft is still in place:
It is unlikely that you will remove the seal without damage to the seal, so you should try to have a replacement in your hand before you wreck the old one.
Be careful not to scratch the shaft or seal housing as you pry it out.
Have you seen this posting? http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19778
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I am just wondering if fuel air separation systems like Fass Fuel really work? Is it really beneficial to diesel engines?
You have to wonder why the big manufacturers of diesel vehicles don't use this product, since it claims to offer "efficiency, durability, satisfaction, and increased performance".
Perhaps the big guys like Cummins forgot to consider the need to keep out snake oil & lemming squeezings that might get into the fuel?
Like you, I am intrested in things that are beneficial, but I'm not sure that this is any better than the OEM water separator & filter systems that come standard on diesel vehicles.
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The Jackal workshop manual is available for download here:
and FAQ here:
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_tonti.html
The manual mentions removing an "open washer".
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I read "Total Control" written by Lee Parks. It is available as a kindle book, recommended by Scud.
It has lots af good advice.
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Simple Green will clean really well, but be careful. It is corrosive to aluminum if not diluted. This is why they make a different product specifically for aluminum alloys. Aircraft alloys do corrode easier than automotive alloys, but the difference is only a matter of degree.
For your pistons, brief exposure at low temp, and washing it off well with hot water & detergent should avoid surface dulling and corrosion pits forming.
Their data sheet http://simplegreen.com/gsa/data-sheets/ says it has alkaline pH 9.
Simple Green's website says this:
Aircraft — Is Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner safe for cleaning aircraft?
Simple Green manufactures a product specifically designed for use on aircraft - Extreme Simple Green Aircraft & Precision Cleaner. This product was initially developed for use in the aircraft industry and extensive testing shows it to be safe for use on aluminum, plastics, rubber, and high tech alloys, in both normal and extreme temperatures and stress conditions. Extreme Simple Green passed a variety of aircraft industry tests. Testing has been performed by Scientific Materials International, Inc. and is available upon request. http://simplegreen.com/en-nz/household/faqs/
You don't need to take my word for it, a web search for "does simple green corrode aluminum" should say something similar.
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For minor seal leaks, Chuck offered a good idea here:http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19654&hl=film
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It is worthwhile to remove the loose & flaking carbon. You would only remove the rest if that makes you feel good. In service carbon builds up again quite quickly, then reaches equilibrium. So after a few hours it would look as though you had never been in there at all.Here's the piston after an overnight soak in diesel and a wipe-down. The worst of the carbon is gone.
Is it worth the effort to get it even cleaner than this? If so, I can try Simple Green tonight.
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What does "index the piston ring end gap" mean?
Is that where I make sure the gaps are not aligned? I noticed that the gaps were at the 6 o'clock, 9 and 3 positions when I removed it. I assume I should keep the rings in the same positions.
Gregory Bender has an excellent presentation here: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/projects_roy_smith_2013-03-19_install_the_left_piston_and_cylinder.html
Yes, it is a roundfin engine, but the principle remains the same.
The V11 workshop manual is less specific, just saying : The end parts of the compression rings must be fitted “out of step” with each other.
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Last year Scud trialed one of these dipsticks (but with a white face) and wrote a rave review here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19319&page=7&do=findComment&comment=210026A black face oil thermometer/dipstick! What more can a Scura owner ask for!!
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The clips are so cheap, and the cost of a clip coming loose is so big, you should not skimp. A displaced pin can score the bore beyond repair.
$5 x4 https://www.motointernational.com/store/product/GU90351038
As for piston rings, you are taking a risk of breaking one if you try to remove them. If it was me, I'd only remove them if I was planning to replace them.
$60 ×2
https://www.motointernational.com/store/pistoncylinder-sets/92-mm-ring-set-per-side-for-1100s
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Maybe if there was enough interest, DD's exhaust maker could make some more of the shark gill style.Anybody know an exhaust builder who will fabricate one?
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/uploads/post-2086-0-43965900-1473575938.jpg
See his post here:
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19581&page=2&do=findComment&comment=213267
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You could prove to yourself whether you need the oil return hose by putting the hose into a temporary collector bottle, then going for a fast run. (after blanking off the the sump fitting of course).Right, it's the oil return for the crank breather. So the question is, how much oil comes back down from there? If it's negligible, it could be capped off. Just top oil off every so often, and then drain it when doing oil changes, could be possible. If it doesn't affect the breathing of the engine, and if lots and lots of oil doesn't get spat up in there, shouldn't be an issue deleting it right?
A split in my old breather hose meant two drips of oil out the bottom of the clutch housing everywhere I stopped, and probably faster drip rate with the engine running. Even with the split, I think most oil vapor was still getting up into the spine, and then to either the airbox or the sump.
I think that this probably means that the return oil flow is more than negligible, depending on many things like power setting, rpm, oil temp/quality/quantity, Roper plate installed, piston ring wear...
If you try it, can you let us know what you find out?
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Can you try forcing the shaft apart hydraulically by pumping grease into the spline lube nipple?
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Hopefully now that Nero Corsa will run just as sweetly on frosty mornings as it will on hot afternoons.
It looks like you found a good place to put the sensor.
The cable does come with a satisfaction guarantee, so I can add 100mm to it if you think it needs to be longer.
A little tie-wrap over the plug should stop it coming undone. I think I put one in that bag of bits with the cable.
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Luhbo claims that the Marelli TPS is made by CTS. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8805#entry99551.. CTS claim to be a leading manufacturer of automotive sensors. I don't know any more than that.Hi Martin,do you know that CTS is the supplier of Magneti Marelli? I won't fish in the dark.
Beard (author of the GuzziDiag suite) made an interesting proposal. Which is to use the PF1C. Because it doesn't have the oval holes necessary for rotation, he would modify the contents of the EEPROM and add an offset. And we could adapt the TPS lookup table to the linear curve of it.
The PF1C is available for ~11$ from Alibaba, so I went ahead and ordered one.
Cheers
Meinolf
Kiwi Roy mentioned a Hall Effect TPS replacement, which is likely to be more durable, and tolerant of bad weather than a sliding resistor. Would it be more worthwhile to develop an EEPROM variant for a Hall sensor instead of a PF3C? http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19647&page=3&do=findComment&comment=217258
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If CTS is the OEM for many of models of TPS, do you think they may help you with specs?
http://www.ctscorp.com/products/sensors-2/throttle/
At the bottom of the page, there is a request technical information link.
Green + Attitude = Gratitude
in 24/7 V11
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