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stuarto49 last won the day on June 27 2015

stuarto49 had the most liked content!

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About stuarto49

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  • Birthday 04/18/1949

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  • My bikes
    Moto Guzzi V11 Sport 2001, 2008 Yamaha FJR1300, 2009 Kaw KLR650
  • Location
    Richmond, VA

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  • Interests
    Motorcycles - Long Distance riding + cafe-style bikes. Opera. mechanical & electrical projects.
  1. stuarto49


  2. There is something really special about 'fly-and-ride' - the process becomes a real adventure. I would carry some extra fuses, particularly the 30A main charging fuse. And carry a small multi-meter. Just in case! They say you don't need to be an electrician to have a Moto Guzzi - BUT IT HELPS. There is a wealth of very useful information on this forum including all service procedures, and especially, electrical issues and how to fix them, or even better, how to prevent them. Good luck and have FUN riding back to MN. Stuart
  3. The GT is certainly for heavier touring bikes. I've got the standard PR4s on my Yamaha FJR1300 which is much heavier than my V7 Sport. So I just fitted a (standard) PR4 on the front of my Sport, and the rear will follow as that tire wears out. Stuart
  4. My 2001 V11 Sport needs a front tire. Presently running a Bridgestone Battleax BTO16X on the front and a BTO21R on the rear. Rear tire has some miles to go but the front is about done. I am running Michelin Pilot Road 4 front and rear on my Yamaha FJR with good feel, and they are supposed to have really superior wet traction. They are both lasting quite well also. Comments? Any issue putting a PR4 on the front with the Bridgestone on the back? Thanks, Stuart
  5. I've got the shift light and 'pre' shift light working OK now as well as the ambient (air) temp via the sensor mounting thru my junction box just below the instrument. And the speed indication is within 1 mph up to about 75, so far. Set the speed 'warning' light for 65 but that's got to move up. The documentation leaves much to be desired, especially after helping STEWGNU sort out his neutral light issue. What we learned is that the KOSO is looking for the neutral signal to be pulled down to ground (12V-) and the newer V11's have reverse logic - when in neutral the signal goes UP to 12V+. A simple relay fixed that problem. Accordingly, very pleased with my choice for this instrument.
  6. I have an actual mechanical oil pressure gauge on my 2001 V11 Sport. When I bought the bike the OP light was malfunctioning and the previous owner had already ordered a replacement switch. Once he gave me the new switch I used only the adapter (M_somehing to 1/8" FPT) and connected the real gauge, and put the new switch on shelf. My gauge has a 0-100PSI range so it doesn't get 'nailed' when the bike is cold and the oil is thicker. When I start the bike from cold (summer here in VA) I read 65-75 PSI at fast idle. Once the bike warms up, after some riding, I still get at least 12-15 PSI at slow idle, and right back up again to 50-60 PSI when taking off. I believe the OEM pressure switch is set for 3-5 PSI. I'm an engineer - GIVE ME DATA. I also have digital voltmeters with one decimal point on all three of my bikes. And I know exactly what's going on with the electrical systems. On the Guzzi I saw 15-5 - 16 volts one day - I knew something was wrong. The next time out it only showed 11.6V at any RPM. I replaced the Rectifier / Regulator with an aftermarket unit. Now it charges at 13.6 - 13.9 V, like it should. Stuart
  7. Yes, actually, one of those relays might work fine for this application. First we need to test the circuit coming from the bike. On my bike that's a violet wire - which you have connected to the KOSO neutral indicator. As a test, disconnect that wire from the KOSO and let's test the relay on that circuit. On most of these relays the coil terminals are 85 and 86. Connect that purple wire to one of them (85) and then connect 86 to the ground on the bike (12V-). Turn on the key and see if the relay pulls in (clicks) Disconnect and reconnect that ground wire to be sure. If that has no result (relay NOT working at all in Neut or in gear) then you should try connecting the 86 terminal to 12V+ - clip onto the battery on some other handy + terminal. Again, turn on the key to see if the relay pulls in in Neutral, or in gear. I would bet that the relay will function either from 12V- or 12V+. Once we determine what the relay is doing we can work out the other connections - just a couple of wires. If you have SKYPE I can help you in person. Especially if you can set up your laptop near the bike. Stuart
  8. That wheel sensor mount certainly looks familiar. Most solid state relays are Single Throw - that mean it will not 'reverse' the logic (contacts ON when relay is NOT energized, and the reverse).. However there are very small 12VDC relays with Double Throw contacts - I've got a few in my workshop. And this kind of relay, tucked into your headlight bucket will reverse the logic of the signal from the bike and light up the Neutral light when you are IN NEUTRAL. I suspect you could find such a relay locally, probably for about 5 quid. Some are plug-in style, which require a small socket. Other can be wired directly with no socket. Often the socket costs more than the relay. Posted below are a couple links to such relays. You must get one with a 12V DC coil. http://www.automationdirect.com/static/specs/78relays.pdf http://www.parts-express.com/cat/12v-relays-sockets/399?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=1-9_Cats_BP&utm_group=12v-relays-sockets_399_BP Almost any standard automotive relay would work, but it must have 5 terminals so that the Normally Closed contact can be used. If you find a relay I will explain how to connect it - very simple! Stuart
  9. You forgot to do your 'post dealer service inspection' of every fastener they could have possibly touched.
  10. Suggest you try to contact the manufacturer about the neutral light. If no luck with mfr. we could probably rig up a simple solid-state relay to reverse this signal. Turn ON the light in Neutral. I could test it at my end first, of course. Stuart
  11. I think if you were on the wrong ignition wire (many) other things would NOT work at all, or certainly not work correctly. My KOSO is entirely different from yours but I would expect that the neutral light circuit is the same. I'll look into my wiring a bit and post my thoughts. Stuart
  12. I did a quick search on eBay and came across many items, many from Hong Kong. Here is one from US - I think this is the same size as mine. Probably from same source as Radio Shack. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Plastic-Project-Box-or-Electronics-Enclosure-5x2-5x1-7-inches-/111692516097?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1a01648b01 Here's another with clear top, from HK http://www.ebay.com/itm/85x58x33mm-Waterproof-Cover-Clear-Plastic-Electronic-Project-Box-Enclosure-CASE-/281390875149?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item418434020d I did not search for UK only but there are so many sizes and configurations you can certainly find a suitable unit.
  13. Photos below show the speedo sensor mounted at bottom of right fork. A small stainless steel plate was used to bridge from the M6 mounting hole in the fork leg to the included sensor bracket, also with an M6 bolt. More photos and measurements upon request. I decided to use two of the included magnets which just happen to fit into the center hole of the disk mounts. Once I tested this arrangement I used two-part epoxy to permanently mount those two magnets. I found the setup instruction a little overwhelming for my 66 y-o brain and thought about finding a 16 year-old to help decipher the required process. Instead I sat down and found the note about entering the setup screen - HOLD BOTH buttons for 3 sec. Then you are instructed to press the select button a number of times to reach each function. The 'Cycle/piston' setting is the for tach. I set for 2 pistons, 2 cycles, high active. The tach needle step around along with various cryptic symbols to show which feature you are working on (sort of). The fuel level is NOT going to work as the float in my bike is only OFF-ON for low fuel. I used the KOSO indicator for low oil pressure (grey on KOSO to blue/black on bike) as my bike has a real oil pressure gauge instead of the idiot light. Not sure if this is working properly, until I run low on fuel. For wiring I followed a chart from posts on the RX2N thread although some wire colors were different on my KOSO. I connected the violet on KOS (Alternator light) to the Blue on bike. For the tach I used the Yellow/Black wire which fed my dead tach, and this connected to the KOSO Brown wire with bullet connector. Other setup details from RX2N thread were very helpful and my other indicators worked perfectly - high beam, left and right turn signals. My tire circumference was tape measured at 74.5 inches converted to 1890mm. Set this easily with TWO sensor points. One slight adjustment (1870 I think) has the speedo dead on with my GPS. Still fooling with the shift light and a couple other details. As expected there are another dozen features which I don't need so I think I will make a simplified setup chart on a single sheet. Stuart
  14. Photos below show the junction box with only the KOSO cable, and the box with all the connections made. I used small plastic (nylon?) strain relief fittings for both cables - to ensure waterproof entry of the cables. Inside I made the connections with red posi-lok connectors. I mounted one of the included temp sensor thru the wall of the box to display air temp, but haven't got this one working just yet.
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