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Everything posted by Tinknocker

  1. Ok, thanks docc. I will retain that in the theater of my mind. I mentioned White Power because it was specifically referred to as such in the owners manual.
  2. Because they stick out more and are lower, I'm thinking they would hit the ground easier with severe lean angles in turns.
  3. Is this problem with the Sachs White Power shock, and top or bottom? I have an 02 LeMans.
  4. An analog meter is a better way to check tps sensors. A bad spot will be seen as a needle blip when a faulty sensor is moved through the full sweep. DMM's may or may not show a bad spot with a faulty tps, due to some technical explanation I can't remember 🤔
  5. I do think it would have been fine, if I had not used the loctite. And, yes, 45 ft-lbs seems a plenty for a 10mm bolt. But, that's what the manual said. They really should have used a nut instead of threading into cast aluminum. There's alot of things all manufacturers should have done, but didn't, lol.
  6. I learned to be cautious using loctite, the hard way. Manual didn't call for it, but I justified the use because it's a Harley V-twin (Buell) and they vibrate fasteners loose, lost a few lower fairing screws because of it. Didn't make it to torque spec of 45 ft-lbs and the threads pulled out of the cast aluminum threaded hole😫. I reckon the loctite "altered" the friction kinda like oil would, and now the torque spec was too much . Had to helicoil it, and, no loctite this time, lol. YMMV
  7. I'm 51, and 2 hours on the LeMans is enough for me. PO installed 2" risers on mine, extended hydro lines too. While they were a little more comfortable, the bike had electrical malfunctions. Sometimes wouldn't start or crank and might die when at a stop. I figured the wires were stretched as he didn't lengthen them. Brake and clutch reservoirs would rub fairing and he buggered the aluminum mounting bracket so it wouldn't hit the fairing. Took them off and the electrical gremlins pretty much disappeared. And, it handled better too. Even though it was a little more comfortable, I like it stock b
  8. Sadly, those parts stores and getting harder and harder to find docc. We have only a couple left here. Used to be several in town. Really miss the ones that are gone 😢. I think I have some leftover 7 & 8mm ends around somewhere in my super organized (not) garage. I assume that's a 7mm spark plug end? Thanks gstallions, I have a couple crimpers too.
  9. I bought NGK solid core wires with 5K caps. It looks like the coil end is replaceable but haven't had them apart yet. Has anyone attempted replacing the wires to the coils and how did it turn out?
  10. That makes sense and now feel like I should have known, lol. Thanks
  11. A Lil update, switched # 2 & 3 relays and seemed to run better. Cleaned paint off tranny case ground and definitely cranks better. Installed Omron relays and seems to run better yet. Still has a little bit of stuttering when cruising at speeds less than 40 mph or so, but certainly better than last couple of weeks. Will update after I do a decent tune-up to include new NGK spark plugs wires w/5k ohm caps and K&N air filter. Are the stock wires solid copper core? As the new ones that I have are. Thanks gents.
  12. After letting it cool down, I started it up in the garage and seemed to run normal. I didn't take it back out for a ride however. That's a good idea, will do that next time, thanks.
  13. It ran better after cooling down for 30 minutes or so.
  14. Verified that it is turned fully open, CCW.
  15. Tried to turn the knurled knob a couple years ago out of curiosity, it wouldn't budge with my fingers. Didn't use tools on it and left it alone. Felt I might open a bag of worms if I proceeded. Omrons ordered from online components & Casper's breakout harness (thanks Docc), Caig Deoxit on the way also. Once my Buell is back in action, the tank is coming off and a decent tune-up will commence, minus CO adjustment. Don't have necessary soft and hardware for that. Thanks.
  16. Under tank. Fuel filter is under tank as well. I'm thinking vapor lock post ride. Looks like non-electric fuel cock, no wires going to it. A wire going to fitting beside it, low fuel sensor? Just don't remember having run issues after letting it sit after a ride, seems a new issue.
  17. Took her out for 60'ish mile ride, mostly rural and some slow in town riding and seemed a little better after swapping 2 & 3 relays. Definitely cranked better after cleaning paint off case for main ground. But, came home and let her sit about 20 minutes while I cleaned bugs off windscreen & helmet and attempted to start to put in garage and starting issues remain after sitting post ride. Didn't want to rev at all, died several times trying to start to move into garage. Would idle for a couple moments then die and attempting to rev it would stutter and die. IDK, seems like a vacuum leak
  18. Looks like a few adult beverages are required for to complete the task. Lol
  19. A KTM trick is to zip tie the lever to bar overnight. Turn bars so reservoir is highest. It has worked for me, on my KTM anyway. Even after rebuilding brake M/C and bleeding, it still had spongy lever. Did this trick, and next day had full operation.
  20. Intermittent stuttering is the problem I'm chasing. I noted that I cleaned the main ground and used copper antiseize on it and Docc brought up that you mentioned it's actually an insulator. I need to redo it anyway as I forgot to put sealer on the threads since it's a through hole to tranny. Will probably leak oil if I don't. Thanks.
  21. Thanks Docc. I was going to go with eBay simply because buying Deoxit there also. They are 5 for $25, so $5 each. I will probably go with your suggestion as it is a little cheaper and exactly the same part #. Checked the main ground, and it was mounted to case. They left the paint on though so I scraped it off, cleaned everything up and brushed with copper antiseize. Probably go for a shakedown ride tomorrow and see how she runs. I think I'll leave the gas in it to minimize variables. I'm suspecting the relay could be the problem.
  22. OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R1-DC12 DC 40A, 12V High Current Automotive Relay 5.0 out of 5 stars. (11) 11 product ratings Brand New $10.80 Buy It Now FAST 'N FREE Guaranteed by Thu, Jul. 9 Save up to 12% when you buy more Is this the right one? It has "R1" in part # whereas Docc's link is "R" only? Also, I seem to remember reading that #1 relay has 1 more pin than #2&3, but, that #1 will work for all 3. Is that correct? They don't have results for G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12. Thanks Chuck, Deoxit "A/V" kit in cart.
  23. Swapped # 2 & 3 relays and went for a short 5 mile spin. Seems to be running normal now, but it's much cooler at 11pm in Ohio. I'm thinking that I siphoned old gas out in April and refilled with new, but, I have CRS syndrome. Maybe I'll siphon it now and put new in just to be sure.
  24. Craig Deoxit... I have heard about that in a couple forums. Looks like Amazon has it. Another item to add to my list. Great grief, between the Uly and sugar plum I have spent probably more than $1,500 on just upkeep stuff recently. Keep putting off the D&D exhaust and ECU, I wanna hear the Uly roar like the Guzzi with Staintune, lol.
  25. Thanks Docc, she is a cream puff. Picked her up 5 years ago with 12.5k in York Pa off a cool old Millwright. I just received a Motion Pro carb synch tool that I think should help, and have a Fluke DMM to measure tps. I will swap #3 to #2. They are Siemens A1001-A402's. I will check on the Omrons, thanks.
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