leroysch

Appreciate the thought, Scud. I tried that first with my best simulant of a RAM ball (some washers on an appropriately threaded bolt). Using what I had..and doing the eyeball extrapolation....I wasn't convinced getting a stand-alone ball was going to allow the GPS (Garmin 66X) to clear the fairing.

Found some room to mount a GPS. Clears the fairing and no interference lock-to-lock.

Mine had the boot too, but between the magic ointment on the connections and, perhaps, an ill-advised spritz of silicone spray to the boot itself to keep it pliable, darn thing won't stay put. The plugged hose was discovered after I took the starter cover off, just laying on the starter. It's a mystery (to me) for now. It passed my critical inspection (hmmm....screw's in there pretty good...if it's meant to plug the end, it's still doing its job) so I just zip tied it to something stationary and moved on!

After somewhat routine winter maintenance (valves, fluids, tires, fuel & air filter, relay replacments) and in the midst of a GPS/Voltmeter install I decided to check and see if the patient still had a pulse. Welllllll, no current draw to the starter, but some chatter at full handlebar lock. Took the ignition switch apart without mangling it too bad, lubed it with my preferred non-conductive ointment, then moved further aft: Ugh! And, the 12V trigger, removed in the pic, was marginally attached. Between this. a battery suffering from a winter's worth of disuse, and a loose positive connection at the battery I'm hopeful the patient can be removed from life support (trickle charger) soon.

Oh man, my ECU is upside down. It never stops.......

..and thus..bar-end mirrors were born.

It truly is a labor of love...not nearly as intensive as your endeavors... Orange, orange, red w/black(blue(?)) stripe, black Surprising amount of corrosion on/about the relays... Have the Omrons at the ready...interesting difference in two of the spades' width Greased the clutch switch bullet connectors by the frame neck (LH side), was able to make out most of the crankcase breather once I stopped relying on the parts manual depiction. Need to take the airbox completely off to visualize it completely...I stopped at replacing the filter...found that one of the screws holding a side panel on went MIA. Surprisingly, sourced those M5 flat nylon washers online from WalMart for cheap..with free shipping.

Pushing 11,000 miles, I decided to put the knowledge I've gained from the forum to good use. New rubber, front and rear, and...voila... Didn't bust a thing. Best tip was to relieve the fuel pressure by separating the two electrical connectors coming out of the fuel pump (2004, internal) and turning the engine over briefly. Didn't do my homework, though, cuz while I have a new fuel filter I don't have the fuel pump gasket. Does anyone know the purpose of these threaded fasteners on the "spine"? And one more....this is by the battery. Purpose? While the tank is off I'm thinking I'll take advantage of the battery tender pigtail and run a line to the front for a GPS. Be nice to configure this as a sport-tourer for road trips.

Rear tire installed, valves adjusted (we'll see just how re-usable those elastomeric gaskets really are), and front wheel off for a new tire. Interesting process for axle removal (type I per the manual). Glad I had a 30mm socket and found that the steel bar in the tool kit which I presumed went thru the holes in the axle to worry it out was way too large. Went a bit anal on the washers used on the two middle bolts going thru the head guards. Their OD wouldn't quite fit. Mr. Dremel to the rescue.....

Oh..and adding Al foil to shop inventory.....

I've gone this season with these: https://realgaskets.com/product-category/motorcycle/moto-guzzi/ No leaks, but the recommended installation torques for the sump are pretty low. Had to buy a new torque wrench that I felt could do it reasonably accurately. Doing off season maintenance at the moment. We'll see how re-useable they in fact are!

Very timely.... Just this AM waded thru the shims, spacers,and bearings associated with the rear tire replacement...don't know where tomorrow will take me but have the maintenance check lists at my side! (Looking up the density of Western Cedar to nail the spec'd volume for the plain vanilla gearoil.)

Ditto

Agreed on the 3 day weekend keep out zone. Sometime before and NOT including Father's Day weekend are my $.02.

Have a safe...and dry...return!

Could have celebrated the incipient milestone on the commute to work earlier this week, but was a lot more fun sport riding in a most gentlemenly manner today....

I have one of these...or something very similar...on the 916. Unobtrusive, and..as a side benefit....can verify the bike's radiator fan is functional when it changes from green or amber at idle to a flashing red.

http://www.hitechseals.com/products/O-Rings-met.asp PN 30031 is 3mm x 30mm ID. Context of the listing leads me to believe a square section/EPDM could be available.

Thank you!

FWIW, I had an erratically running/stalling motor in a bike which I had convinced myself was thermally related. Couldn't figure it out, sat down in the shop and stared at it for a few minutes..ok, ok..a lot of minutes....and the answer was right in front of my face. I had covered some tubing with a braided shield and the sharp ends had chewed through adjacent wire insulation of conductors in the signal path which fires the spark plugs.

Wow.

Great job! If I understand correctly, you're using set screws (visible in post 159) to keep the back cover on. I like the idea of eliminating having to align those four threaded posts, but isn't the wall of the back cover pretty thin? I'm not "seeing" how the set screws are reliably captured. Am I missing something? Thx!

The solution was just to worry it out, i.e., worry about cracking the white cup getting the mechanism out. Once I got the hang of it, no problem. Thanks for the offer, but I was able to get in there and re-attach one of the two cover mounting posts which had separated as well as refasten the mechanism to the cup with two screws which had gone missing. Greased the gears, bonded the bezel (my original problem) to the speedo, took a brief test drive, and it appears to be functional!

Would someone more learned than me help confirm my suspicions? While I was able to get the plastic trip meter knob off, the brass looking male D shaped thing it engages sticks out pretty far and creates an effective diameter preventing the speedo guts to slide out of the white cup containing them. Is there another threaded interface between this brass piece and the trip odometer shaft that will allow it to be removed? Is this interface the LH thread I've read about in other threads. I tried turning it clockwise, but didn't seem to be making much progress. On the bright side, the fasteners which hold the guts stable in the white cup are missing, and I'm hearing something rattling around in the cup which are probably the fasteners on the other side of this interface. On the cynical side, I'm half expecting the whole thing to break once reinstalled and having to go GPS. Thanks! (ITT gauge)

Went to bond the bezel/glass back on my speedo and discovered all the guts in bucket move around. Welllll..that didn't seem right, and thanks to the search function, found this: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13045&hl=speedo (looks like the bike was successful in executing method one without my assistance) Thanks guys/gals! Aaargh....and the weekend weather is going to be perfect.