leroysch

As I was telling LowRyter, I had made the mistake of doing an east coast road trip years ago. It wasn't till I turned inland down in Georgia that I was able to get out of the shoreline congestion, and coming back on Arkansas 7 (which I see runs thru Harrison) was the best part of the trip! Looks like a great place to get lost. Now..about those no-smoking rooms. Guess Chuck's wife didn't intimidate me enough..... ...to quit...(yet!)

I just got some paint and was thinking about opening those on purpose to paint the needles orange again. This thread might help you too: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16407&hl=%2Bveglia+%2Brepair Thanks Scud. Didn't run across that thread when I searched, but it convinced me that it's nothing more than a bonding operation. After I drain out some oil, of course....

A formula for overfilling the sump? Stay tuned..... Well Docc, you're right.....the pressure built up so much that it popped my speedo bezel and rubber gasket off the bike....ugh! Seriously, about 250 miles total of high speed running and no parked drips or telltale signs of unwanted seepage. Equally seriously, the speedo bezel..the circular thing with a number of extremely small diameter posts about its perimeter which fit into equally small holes in what I think is the outer face of the speedo did pop off as I was coming up my somewhat washed out gravel driveway. Goes right back on, but pops off easily. The tach bezel doesn't budge. Going to search the archives and see if this needs nothing more than some glue, or whether I'm missing some other mystery piece which keeps this in place.....

A formula for overfilling the sump? Stay tuned.....

Got the bike vertical, read all the threads on oil filling methodology (picked the one in which the filler cap just begins to engage the threads and filled to near the full mark), and did a loose fastener check before starting the packing process for the WG Cedar Vale, KS not-a-rally. Even got the Kermit chair back into its sack. Gonna live dangerously and not even pack the assembly instructions.......

If the threaded part of the mount was long enough, couldn't the assembly be clamped in place with a washer/bolt at the bottom of the hole. My 1125R has a similar thru hole and I vaguely remember using some 1/4-20 all-thread to mount my GPS in a similar location.

What he said!

Go Spartans!

Hope it can be repaired.

Appreciate you taking the time and photo-documenting. Thanks!

If you "...love the looks and the ride of the LeMans..." too late to eliminate emotions. Get the darn thing. The price seems decent..and you won't regret it...much.

..and rightly so! Thank you.

My, my . . . the 100k refresh . . . that is, perhaps, another matter entirely . . . So many people have asked me, "What are you going to do to the Sport at 100,000 miles? Complete tear-down? Heads? Clutch? Pistons? Drive shaft?" In all honesty? It needs the regularly scheduled 6,000 mile/ 10.000km tune up (I'm on "Step One" of the Decent Tune-Up). At 5,943 miles the plugs looked rough enough that I think 4,000 is a better interval. I found no combustion "soot" around the top of the exhaust valves/guides. The right side valves were spot-on, and left needed 0.002" adjustment (with my *new* kewl valve adjustment tool). I thought about replacing the original valve cover gaskets. But cleaned them instead. Maybe I ought to replace the original sump gasket? That is a cool tool. I had a heck of a time keeping the gaps stable while buttoning things up. Thanks for posting.

Looks great!!

+1 on corrosion and/or contact issues playing a role. Had an issue with the charging circuit on a JD 2305 tractor. Turned out the connector between the voltage regulator and main wiring harness were so gunked up, the regulator's positive DC out wires at the connector fused open on both sides.

Scud's right, one of the better investments I've made for this purpose http://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0143

Another pan dropper here. I won't mess with the manhole cover..and that's before I heard anything about O-ring growth! Good luck.

Valve adjustment with a side of silicone gaskets. A 10-15 in-lb torque requirement from the gasket manufacturer was....interesting...as was the discovery..on the last bolt during reinstallation....that one silicone chad didn't get punched out. Found the LH side mid-tank fairing fastener had worn thru the paint. I'll see how some gorilla tape survives.....

Congrats! Nice score. What a fun trip.

Enjoyed the report!

Thanks for posting.

Expanding her living room.

FWIW, I didn't have to knock off those captive fasteners which are part of the bike's rear bracket supporting the mudguard, license plate frame, etc. It was helpful to take the HB bolts and take advantage of the captive fasteners to make a cross brace/rear bracket "assembly" and then use the HB nuts to fasten it to the bike's frame. With everything loosely attached (rotated Ti exhaust, stock passenger brackets, both side brackets for the HB bags, turn signal relocation bar) everything lines up!

Sure, if you've got some time, I'd be interested in cross brace pics and its orientation. Does the "open" side of the L shape that attaches to the existing bracket face forward or backward? It appears to me it can go either way. Email is leroysch@aol.com if you run into posting problems. Thanks!

Spent an embarrassingly long time trying to figure out where the cross brace on the HB attaches to the frame. Still not sure what direction it needs to "point", guess there's a 50-50 chance I'll be right the first time. Thought I'd never get one of the pipes between the cross-over and Ti can to loosen. Amazed me what a few drops of 3 in 1 oil and a few gentle mallet taps did. Went from not budging to sliding right off in a minute or so. Note to self: don't forget the anti-seize!