The cam drive belts are a piece of piss scud, a man of your tallents will find it easy. The covers and stuff come off pretty easy after you get the F$#+_&îng fairing off. Just note the tension on the old belts before you remove the tension pully and set the same with the new belts. There is a special tensioning tool for the old engines and a fancy shmancy acoustic tool for the later bikes ( I kid you not, you tension the belt and give it a pluck and the tool measures the frequency) some use a guitar tuner but I still do it by feel. One way is to slide an allen wrench between the belt and tensioner bearing like a feeler gauge. a 6mm one with a moderate amount of drag for the ST2 from memory. Just line up the dot jackshaft pully with the groove on the clutch housing and then make your own markes on the cam pullies. Very easy.
Update.. a friend was tuning his belts with a mobile phone app. For memory its 110hz but on mine I used a 5mm allen key..Here's a couple of extras points between the ducati and guzzi donks (engines).
Valve tappet clearances... wait till u need on the ducati. They're critical clearances. Hard to get to and expensive.
Ya all know how difficult the guzzi is.
The clutch will go on the ducati about 80k. They're an aluminum basket and they develop deep grooves making the clutch rattle louder and louder. Replace with a Barnett billet clutch basket that has stainless tongue covers to limit wear.
The heads often wear guides around 80k too. Quoted here at around $1200 for valves , guides and machining. ST3 would be more.
That's about the worst.
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