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Tinus89 last won the day on February 10 2020

Tinus89 had the most liked content!

About Tinus89

  • Birthday 07/27/1989

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  • My bikes
    V11 Sport Mandello Rosso, Aprilia Caponord ETV1000, V65 Florida (build in progress)
  • Location
    Groningen, Netherlands

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  1. I have ordered the white plastic lamp holder for the cluster from https://www.cmsnl.com/, it was also NLA at most stores. Not cheap, but I was very happy they had it available. Maybe they have this as well. It is listed on their site as PGGU02781101.
  2. I had the exact same. Sometimes a slow start, sometimes fine, sometimes click-no start (and battery voltage WITH a road-side assistance car battery hooked up) dropped to 7V when pushing the starter button.... 2 loose magnets in the can.
  3. I have experienced my return line banjo, which is made of a different material compared to the steel of the frame tube, to be partially filled with corrosion product & debris. I cleaned it out when I found it. I can't confirm this would cause the leakage as described as I do run pods (came without air filter box when I bought it) and my breather line runs to the ground.
  4. @Rox Lemans, which exhausts are those?
  5. This behaviour sounds exactly like mine did. Only happened when the bike was hot, eventually traced back the problem to the phase sensor. A non-oil compatible o-ring underneath it had swollen, causing the mounting plate to bend and the phase sensor move away from the phonic wheel causing these issues. A new o-ring did the trick in my case. Not saying in your case it is the o-ring, but the phase sensor explains the behaviour very well.
  6. Tinus89

    Scura build

    That is one way to look at it, however I personally quite like the swept back look. You could also have whoever translates the scan into a CNC program, ensure there is a fairly large radius in the back of the cutouts, e.g. 1/3 of the ID. That way the shape you take out on the front is about the same as the shape you will fill in on the back, where the cutouts are present in the original cast item. When you also use a metal which is at least as strong as the cast item you will be fine.
  7. Tinus89

    Scura build

    If you intent to remove the recesses on the back of the plate and move them to the front for cosmetical reasons, please also consider the fairly large radiusses used on this fairly stressed part. If you design the recess on the front side just to be milled out with an e.g. 10mm mill on a CNC lathe, the very small internal radius in the recess may still cause cracking, even though the design is strong enough for the general loads. Short version: when reproducing a casted part by CNC process, seriously consider the radiusses.
  8. I have a spare, grey, non-cracked gearbox with 57000km on it, but I'm located in the Netherlands so postage may be an issue...
  9. Thanks for all the responses! I've given it a whack yesterday with some paint stripper and a wire brush on a drill, which went remarkably well. Everything closed up/taped off obviously. Only need to go and find a smaller bit for the corrosion in the small holes, but should be fine. Plan is indeed to (quality) rattle can it, as the curing of the powdercoat will hurt any seals etc.
  10. It is early '90s. Hmmm. So no need to set preload/backlash if I dont change anything, but also not too straight forward. Since it is not leaking, I am leaning towards leaving it intact an painting as is...
  11. Hi all, I have a smallblock rear drive/bevel box which I want to repaint, as oxidation has caused the paint to flake. I can of course get a wire brush out on a drill and manually remove all old paint & oxidation prior to repainting it, but the best option really would be to have it sandblasted. Question: I have never disassembled a bevel box (I have with entire engines). Is disassembly and reassembly of one of these easy, or should I spend extensive time & effort in setting gear preload/interference?
  12. Are you 100% confident the sidestand switch and related wiring is good? Because when I put out the sidestand whilst in gear, she dies, however when I quickly enough flip the sidestand back (or the clutch), I can actually prevent her from dieing and it sounds like a misfire or ignition problem.
  13. So nothing happens when you press the starter switch? Not even a faint click of the starter relay? First things to check: - Dead man switch on? - Does the fuel pump prime? - Are you using the clutch lever whilst starting? - Check the main ground on the back of the gearbox is tight. - Push the starter button and then turn the handlebars from full left lock to right and back. Does she start now?
  14. The distance covered was over 2.5m, so that would class it as a pressure spray right?
  15. Lovely story. Can we ask for pictures?
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