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About Cyborg

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    2001V11 Sport
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  1. Cyborg


  2. Do these tanks ever develop cracks around that area? I haven't pulled the tank off yet and don't think its anything other than the tap o-ring, but thought I would ask.
  3. Thanks. The parts manual I have, doesn't show it and after looking through it, I'm assuming its for the wrong year. It only shows the tank with the internal pump and I have an external one. Guess I better find the correct manual.
  4. Hello all. Been a while since I posted.... Came home from a fishing expedition, went into the garage and was greeted by the smell of gas. The two allen screws that hold the fuel solenoid valve onto the tank are wet. Checked them and they are both snug. It may have something to do with the lack of clearance between the fuel solenoid and the intake boot. It seems as though a washer that goes under the rear tank mount was left out at some point in the past, allowing the solenoid to rub against the boot. The solenoid itself doesn't seem to be leaking, it looks like it coming from where it attaches to the tank. Anyway, I know the answer is to drain the tank, remove it, and figure out why its leaking..... but, I thought I would see if anyone has had a similar situation. Anything to look out for? My parts book doesn't show (or I can't find) the solenoid and I'm wondering if it's a gasket or an O-ring that seals the solenoid to the tank.
  5. Not the one with the red handle, but the black one on the far left of the second photo. Good point, but honestly it never entered my mind to inquire about warranty. It's been a long time since I've dealt with Snap-On, but found that they were tougher to deal with on warranty than they used to be. I was surprised at how the deadblow broke up. Lots of sharp chunks flying around. Good reason to listen to the little voice in my head that says you should really be wearing safety glasses when you do this..... but honestly wouldn't normally put them on when using a deadblow.
  6. I'd be tempted to toss that dead blow in the second photo if it is getting on in age. Looks just like mine before the head of it disintegrated into little bits. I bought it from the Snap-On guy back in the dark ages though.
  7. Mine is ok in that regard, the pump cycles every time, but thanks for posting. If you aren't getting the pump cycling, first thing I would try is the relay... keeping in mind I'm still a MG newbie.
  8. Did a bit of a search, but didn't find anything quite the same. The last while the 2001 Sport has had an intermittent problem with the starter button. Push the button and nothing happens. It would start eventually by pushing the button a couple of times, but today that didn't work. I was just about to give up and then figured out if I move the bars back and forth while holding the button it will fire up. So... I know there is a broken wire or a lose connector/contact. Can't be that hard to find, but haven't looked yet. Feeling lazy today, so I though I would ask if anyone has come across a similar situation. Everything is fine otherwise (except the fuel warning light). Once it starts it's all good. Relays are new. Thanks
  9. Matter of opinion I suppose. I don't usually put anything on the tap if I'm just chasing threads unless there are bits that might get into somewhere they shouldn't... then I coat it with grease so the crap sticks to the tap. I'm doing some old cases at the moment (not MG) and noticed one bolt hole that looked like it had a section of broken bolt at the bottom. I went to drill out the centre for an extractor and the bit went through it like butter. Turns out is was just crud that had been really packed in there under the bolt. This thing has been apart a few times, so that may account for most of what was in there. It was enough that the bolt bottomed out before it was tight against the cover. I grabbed a bolt and drilled a hole through it... Screwed the bolt one by one into all of the holes and gently ran a drill down the centre of the bolt to loosen up any crud. You could do it without the hollow bolt, but it protects the threads and guides it straight. Afterwards I flipped the case over and tapped it on the bench and was surprised how much crud came out. I followed up with a bottoming tap.
  10. After returning from a ride, I noticed a little puff of smoke coming off the exhaust cross over when I parked the bike on the side stand. There seems to be a small amount of oil seeping from what I assume is the "special shaft" (as describe in the shop manual) or spindle for the LH wheel inside the cover. I don't have a parts book to determine what if anything seals that shaft in the pre-selector cover. Is there an o-ring that goes on the shaft or is it just supposed to be a snug fit (with sealant) in the cover? It's not something that warrants taking it apart until the monsoon season is here to stay, but may as well track down the parts that I will need.... along with a parts manual. The shaft that I am referring to can be seen just a little N.N.E. of the neutral switch. Any guidance would be appreciated.
  11. I'm new to MG, so not sure, but what is your battery voltage when cranking? At what point does that computer start to protest?
  12. Haven't ever used one, but just wondering where you are planning to buy it if you go that route? Looked for his web site, but can only find VW stuff.
  13. Ok, if you don't want to go to orthodontia, or many people pushing.. I lined Rosie's tank with Caswell's epoxy tank liner. That's worked fine so far.http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=62087.0;wap2 Thanks, and I may get to that point, although I've never been a fan of tank lining. I don't have any first hand experience to justify the lack of enthusiasm. Just wonder about cleaning, etching, slippery expanding plastic and probably a few other things. West System G-flex is something I might try. Although they don't recommend it for fuel tanks ( and neither do I) they didn't say don't use it, so I'm sure it would be fine, it's just that they haven't done any testing and don't want to assume any liability. I've used it in other applications (like fixing leaks in Hypalon tubes on a RIB), but would have to test it first with gas and alcohol. Great stuff and probably good for cracked side panels etc. I stand to be corrected on this, but I believe there was a class action against Ducati over expanding tanks (I think Ducati's situation was worse with tanks slipping off front mounts), but it was tossed because it wasn't deemed a safety issue. It certainly could be considered a safety issue with MG. With all those old farts pushing on that tank, someone's scrotum could fill with intestines!
  14. Further to leaving the tank empty.... if I understand the expanding tank thing correctly, it's not the ethanol, but the water attracted by the ethanol that causes the problem. There were some car door latches here in monsoon country that swelled up and wouldn't work. By the time they were inspected by the tech fellows at head office, they had returned to their normal state and functioned fine. Drove them nuts for a while. Up here, Shell premium doesn't have any ethanol, so that is what I am going to use whenever possible. My recently acquired tank is swollen (assuming the PO used something with alcohol) , and it comes in contact with the fork tubes. This winter I am going to drain the tank and stuff a bag of desiccant inside it. I bought a sack of reusable desiccant for the air dryer, so have some to spare. I'm a bit of a non social hermit and generally only associate (very infrequently) with other hermits, so gathering that many people together at one time to reinstall a tank could be problematic.
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