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Rolf Halvorsen

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Rolf Halvorsen last won the day on May 28

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About Rolf Halvorsen

  • Rank
    Guzzisti

Previous Fields

  • My bikes
    V11 Sport Coppa Italia
  • Location
    Norway

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  1. No answer for your question - but may be of interest for some. I have a few ROSSO MANDELLO labels - for sale. 50USD / pair. Anyone interested? Can be posted a letter. Posting is included. Rolf
  2. The gearbox house is still available. It has been casted later than 2005 - so it is not amongst the lot that did have a tendency to crack where it is positioned to the frame. Color smooth black. 400Euros INCLUDING shipment to anywhere in the world. Rolf
  3. Ref. Service Announcement No. 14-2003 Affected VIN: ZGUKR0000YM112131 - ZGUKR00001M114639 ZGUKR00001M111111 - ZGUKR00001M111147 ZGUKR0000YM211111 - ZGUKR00001M211162 Bikes from 1999 until 2002 Kit code no. 973260900016 Flexible coupling hose - 04211201 - 1ea. Spacer - 04212401 - 1ea. Movable hose - 04214901 - 2ea. Rolf
  4. Ingolf Schubert i Germany has the friction plate for you. Part: 300433101 https://smotos.de/ersatzteile/kupplungsscheiben-sinter-kupplungsreibscheiben-schwungscheiben-ergalschwungscheiben-anlasskranz-andruckplatte-geschlitzte-zwischenscheibe/ https://www.stein-dinse.biz/# Rolf
  5. Pete I found out how to put the picture in here. Rolf
  6. Lucky Phil I have a new gearbox house if you need. Rolf
  7. I might also have the "small" parts that you need. Let me know and I can make a list of what you need and what I have.
  8. Hi Pete(r) I happen to have the recall kit GU973260900016. It consist of 2 sleeves and 1 redesigned cush drive. Let me know if you have trouble getting these parts free from Moto Guzzi. Send me your mail and you can get pictures of the parts. Rolf (rolf.halvorsen@mail.com)
  9. Correct assembled Helicoil thread is the simplest and best way. When you insert it deep enough, it will prevent to be unscrewed. The top surface will not be changed.
  10. If one (by mistake) remove the positive cable from the battery before the negative - it is very easy to touch the ECU with the wrench. Thereby the ground wire from the ECU (directly, but hidden to the negative battery pole) will "be burned" and since the original ground wire is put together with a lot of other cables in a cable loom - all will be partly damaged. The solution is easy. Disconnect the original ground wire from the ECU (which leads to the negative pole on the battery) - and replace it with a separate wire "in the open". So if someone later tries to remove the positive cables from the battery -and touching the ECU, without first the negative - the new open wire will get burned alone - and all others will be safe. Rolf
  11. Maybe we all have the wrong focus. The transition resistance between the sensor-pins and the cable - might be where we should focus. The ECU measures the resistance only. from about 4.0 KOhm (cold) down to 0.4 KOhm (warm). 100% contact = 0 Ohms. To measure resistance you will require a relative low voltage to be sent. A low voltage combined with corroded pins - might give you a higher resistance NUMBER than it should be. Telling the ECU to think the engine is colder than reality - and feeding more fuel than necessary. Am I into something here? Rolf
  12. Since this sensor should act as an oil temperature sensor - the oil inside the head should transfere the temperature to the surrounding aluminium (in the head). Let us consider this to be ok. Then the aluminium (head) (after being cooled by air) should transfere its temperature to the copper metal base of the sensor bracket. This should also be ok. Then the temperature of the copper base should transfere the temperature to the brass sensor - with an air gap? The best insulator in the world is - nothing (vacuum). Then comes air (dry). Next is any fluid material. (Water can evaporate - so you cannot use that.) Any fluid oil should work, but a very thick oil substance (grease) would be better. I think any grease will work fine since the distance is around 1mm level. Specific thermal grease - or whatever you call it - should not be needed, even if it technically is better. Any comment? Rolf
  13. As I can measure - there is an air gap inside between the sensor and the holder. There has never been a heat leading paste inside the ones I have worked with. And why is the original made of partly plastic? Plastic insulate better than brass in a housing. Would a brass house leak heat away? Rolf
  14. Marty: PERFECT, thanks. Here is an interesting article from Murray (Down under) posted May 22, 2007 After just playing with one to find out its not the problem The "engine oil temp sensor" which is acutally the head temp sensor and has little to !@#$ all to do with the oil temp. What makes me say that I have a bike that has an additional temp sensor in the oil cooler and the reading out of that are radically different to the head temp sensor. Is a NTC (negative temperture coefficent) themocouple with a range of -40 to 170 ish degrees celcius. NTC means as the temp goes up the resitance goes down resitance at 10 degrees is around 3.7K ohm and at 80 degrees is 0.37kohm. Buy rights you should be able to bung a 10cent resitor in there and run home on that if it fails. The sensor does not earth through the cases oil preasure switch style but has a return line to the ECU. Hope this helps NB all temps are celcius/metric.
  15. I think Guzzi calls it the oil temperatur sensor.
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