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Rolf Halvorsen

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Rolf Halvorsen last won the day on May 28

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About Rolf Halvorsen

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    V11 Sport Coppa Italia
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  1. If one (by mistake) remove the positive cable from the battery before the negative - it is very easy to touch the ECU with the wrench. Thereby the ground wire from the ECU (directly, but hidden to the negative battery pole) will "be burned" and since the original ground wire is put together with a lot of other cables in a cable loom - all will be partly damaged. The solution is easy. Disconnect the original ground wire from the ECU (which leads to the negative pole on the battery) - and replace it with a separate wire "in the open". So if someone later tries to remove the positive cables from the battery -and touching the ECU, without first the negative - the new open wire will get burned alone - and all others will be safe. Rolf
  2. Maybe we all have the wrong focus. The transition resistance between the sensor-pins and the cable - might be where we should focus. The ECU measures the resistance only. from about 4.0 KOhm (cold) down to 0.4 KOhm (warm). 100% contact = 0 Ohms. To measure resistance you will require a relative low voltage to be sent. A low voltage combined with corroded pins - might give you a higher resistance NUMBER than it should be. Telling the ECU to think the engine is colder than reality - and feeding more fuel than necessary. Am I into something here? Rolf
  3. Since this sensor should act as an oil temperature sensor - the oil inside the head should transfere the temperature to the surrounding aluminium (in the head). Let us consider this to be ok. Then the aluminium (head) (after being cooled by air) should transfere its temperature to the copper metal base of the sensor bracket. This should also be ok. Then the temperature of the copper base should transfere the temperature to the brass sensor - with an air gap? The best insulator in the world is - nothing (vacuum). Then comes air (dry). Next is any fluid material. (Water can evaporate - so you cannot use that.) Any fluid oil should work, but a very thick oil substance (grease) would be better. I think any grease will work fine since the distance is around 1mm level. Specific thermal grease - or whatever you call it - should not be needed, even if it technically is better. Any comment? Rolf
  4. As I can measure - there is an air gap inside between the sensor and the holder. There has never been a heat leading paste inside the ones I have worked with. And why is the original made of partly plastic? Plastic insulate better than brass in a housing. Would a brass house leak heat away? Rolf
  5. Marty: PERFECT, thanks. Here is an interesting article from Murray (Down under) posted May 22, 2007 After just playing with one to find out its not the problem The "engine oil temp sensor" which is acutally the head temp sensor and has little to !@#$ all to do with the oil temp. What makes me say that I have a bike that has an additional temp sensor in the oil cooler and the reading out of that are radically different to the head temp sensor. Is a NTC (negative temperture coefficent) themocouple with a range of -40 to 170 ish degrees celcius. NTC means as the temp goes up the resitance goes down resitance at 10 degrees is around 3.7K ohm and at 80 degrees is 0.37kohm. Buy rights you should be able to bung a 10cent resitor in there and run home on that if it fails. The sensor does not earth through the cases oil preasure switch style but has a return line to the ECU. Hope this helps NB all temps are celcius/metric.
  6. I think Guzzi calls it the oil temperatur sensor.
  7. Thank you Marty for your responce. It is the engine head sensor (mounted in a plastic house on the right cylinder head. Do you hav any specific data for this? I had if on a bench (not touching) . About 20 degrees Celsius. Rolf
  8. A friend came by today complaining that his bike (Quota) seems to be running too rich when warm. After a little discussion - and since I had a new sensor, we decided to switch sensors. But before we did this - we measured the resistance of the new sensor to be around 2.3 KOhm (cold). After switching - the bike seem to run better, and my friend is happy. (who and where can you find a new sensor when you need one?) The old sensor measured about 3.8 KOhm (cold). Can anyone tell me what the resistance values of good sensor should be? (I intend to buy a new and perform measurements on it.) Rolf
  9. Fantastic. They arrived today. 2,5 days USA - Norway. Now I am back in business helping Guzzi injection drivers. Rolf
  10. I ordered 50. Let us see how and when my parcel arrives. Rolf
  11. Thank you Docc and Mikko I just ordered 50, and the order seems to go through. I was happy with my first 50 -so I just want to have more available. Thanks again. Rolf
  12. Hi all One year ago I purchased 50ea. relays from Mouser. No all are gone to my friends in Norway. Now I find that they are obsolete. Can you give me the name of alternative relays? Rolf
  13. The original is article number: 01763030 Teo Lamers (tlm.nl) has these. Rolf
  14. Thank you. This document is the best I have seen - ever. I am soooo pleased. Rolf
  15. I remember reading that that sensor should measure around 650-700 ohms between + and + pin (3pins version). But I have forgotten where I read this. Can anyone help me? Would like to copy that article. Rolf
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