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Rolf Halvorsen

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Everything posted by Rolf Halvorsen

  1. The sidestand pickup for V11 Sport is 01759130. I can now verify that the pickup-sensor and the wire lenght are identical on all these side stand pickups (mentioned above) Only the cable connector are different. This makes it easier to get a new pickup and only change the connector. When the sidestand is active - the wires are not in contact witheach other. When the sidestand is in a drivable position - the wires have connection with each other. This means that if you have a defect pickup, you can take away the cable and put both wires in contact with each other. Then you can drive as normal.
  2. Thank you for this reply. Gutsibits writes that they hav 5 used one available (but no shipping to US or Canada). I bought one used one as said before - and found a brand new one in Norway - 375910 (Centauro) . When I get them both - I can see if the sensor are identical and that only the cable connection are different. Rolf
  3. I bought the used one you refered to. It seem that 2975915 Cal 2/3/1100) and 375910 (Centauro) has the same switch part - but another cable connection. Maybe I can buy one of them and change connector? Thanks for info anyway. Maybe someone else will be happy about this latest info. Rolf
  4. Thank you for info. I see that this one and another one on eBay both are used. I am hoping to find someone that can sell me a new one. I will be waiting for more people to reply.
  5. Searching for a side stand switch for my Coppa Italia. Can anyone give me a lead? Rolf Norway
  6. Well, I would try to find a thin plain washer with the approximal inner and outher diameter + loctite on the peg-nut. It should work without the washer of some kind - but I would be happier with a plain washer.
  7. The timing sensor comes in 2 versions: With 3 pins - 01721600 With 2 pins - 29721660 ( used for CAL3 IE)
  8. Shim / gasket sensor comes in more than 3 dimensions: 0,3mm - 0172270000 0,4mm - 0172270100 0,5mm - 2972276000 I have no idea why this size has another article number, but it looks to be identical with the others. 0,6mm - 0172270200 0,8mm - 0172270300 1,0mm - 0172270400 1,5mm - 0172270500 O-ring: - 9070614100 dimension ø15x2 I must correct my information about the diameter of the sensor well. The sensor diameter is just a little smaller than Ø15mm. The bolt size I used was not 3/8" - it was 9/16" which is close to Ø14mm. I will ask Tom to increase the gauge piston size from about Ø10 to about Ø14. This to ensure that the bottom of the piston touches the teeths of the cam wheel in a better way.
  9. I am proud to present these new dept gauges - produced by our Norwegian member Tom Christiansen. He and me has discussed the best method of deciding which shim thickness should be used for our timing sensor. As the picture shows - I have found a 3/8" bolt and a nut - which should give me a good dept figure. But I was not fully satisfied with this simple tool. Tom produced some better tools - which ha can sell to our member friends. The timing sensor needs about 0,5 - 0,8mm clearence to the timing wheel. I have measured one of my naked sensors to be about 29,6mm lenght (without any shims). So first find the exact dept. Then reduce this number by let say 0,6mm. Then reduce this result by the lenght of your naked sensor. The result should give you the shim thickness. Shims are produced in 3 thicknesses. 0,3 / 0,5 and 0,8mm. Use a correct material for the O-ring that can withstand oil. These first 7 gauges will be presented to the Norwegian autumn club meeting, for about 40USD / 40Euro / 400NOK each. If the V11 forum members are interested -. then I hope Tom will produce some more for sale during the comming autumn and winter. Rolf
  10. Thank you both for your answer. I am learning something new every day. A few years ago I ordered 100ea. G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 from Online Components - and I have sold almost all off them to my Guzzi-friends in Norway. (I had to buy for high quantity to have them send for a reasonable shipping cost.) Now I wanted more of the same relays, and searching for Omron G8HE, I found that Online Components could deliver, so I bought another 100ea. - without checking the rest of the specification. Now these new 100ea. "A = 4-pins" are on their way. I am now happy to be able to inform my new "customers about the use of the A=4-pins and the C= 5-pins versions. Rolf
  11. G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 I just "found" a supplier for OMRON G8HE-1A7T-R-DC12. Since we all talk about the "C"-version, what can you tell me about the "A"-version? Rolf
  12. Replace your light relay (Number 2 from the front).
  13. Back to the original topic. There must be a design error to use this lockwasher in this position since more than me have "found" broken off lock tabs INSIDE of the CARC - where this piece of steel has caused critical damage til the pinion/crownwheel and bearings. I come to think it would be better to remove this lockwasher totally or replace it with an ordinary washer. This plus loctite only of the pinion nut only. It is not always belt AND suspenders are such a fine combination. Rolf
  14. In my opinion theese SKF-tools (KM 1, 2, 3, etc) has not the perfect form. Put the pipes in a lathe and remove the front 2-3mm. Thereby they will attach the peg screws better. And sometimes I had to reduce the outher diameter to get it into the house to attac the nut. And for the old 5-speed Tonti gearboxes - SKF did not had that dimension - so I ordered about 100 directly from the SKF tool factory to be produced according to my drawings. I hope that Pete still have them. Rolf
  15. Pete Then I can agree. This locking design is not the best I have seen around. But the real reason for one of the locking tabs to break loose - and make trouble elsewere - is that when you apply some "high" torque on the bearing locking nut - then you will apply some "high" friction on the lockwasher. In my case it was the locking tab inside of the lockwasher that had broken loose - and sometime later made trouble. Whenever I have this kind of lockwasher - then I apply some grease on it to reduce the friction from the nut. This friction reducing method is not mentioned anywhere which I have seen. Rolf
  16. Hi Pete and the rest of you. A few years ago I was given a CARC that had some problems. I asked for this because I wanted to open it and try to find the reason why it had this damage. After a full dismantle - I saw that the pinion was damaged - and from a teeth from the lockwasher. I leant also that you could not buy a new pair of pinion/crown wheel. When you Pete talk about the need of tightening the locking nut with high torque + Locktite - I come to think I remember that there is no distance cylinder (+ shims) between the 2 pinion conical bearings. If you compare this design with the old bewelbox design - they had the distance cylinder + a number of thin shims, so that you could apply a high torque on the pinion locking nut. My problem now is that you should not use preload on 2 opposite conical bearings without theese movement limiting cylinder and shims. That is why the factory has choosen another solution with only a lockwasher. I agree fully the need for Locktite - but I am not sure about the torque. Am I remembering wrong? Rolf
  17. Any shop can deliver theese. The part number 90401526 means: Inner diameter 15 - outer diameter 26. Rolf
  18. I suspect that the ignition sensor in front left og the engine is bad. Have seen similar behavior before. Article number is 01721600. The distance between the sensor head and the entrance should be aroung 0,5 - 0,7mm. Thin alunimum sheets help to get this correct. You also need a new O-ring to seal it against moist. Chime in if you need more details.
  19. I think the 16x1,78 means Ø16mm inside diameter with thickness 1,78mm. Rolf
  20. GU90706116 Stein Dinse in Germany reports: Moto Guzzi O-Ring 16x1,78 Rolf
  21. This is standard on all 5th gears. It is not dangerous - just put something in your ears. But the fix is to renew both 5th gears to get rid of the "high" noice. Rolf
  22. Thank you for telling us. The only way to increase learning - is to know how things can go wrong. Rolf
  23. Air in the system makes the slave cylinder not move enough.
  24. What if you have got air in the hydraulick system? Bleed the system.
  25. Interested in the TITANIUM racing ECU. Send me a PM. Rolf
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