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FreyZI

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Everything posted by FreyZI

  1. +1 more on overhead straps. If the bike comes down on me, I have other problems, because the dining room table is next. I'm using the Canyon Dancer tie down (er, up) device, which is really convenient.
  2. Great. Now that we've decided that I will not screw around inside the final drive, I have to decide what paint to use. Here's a shot of the torsion bar bracket thingy with a cast alu piece I shot with some VHT wrinkle paint. Looks a pretty good match to my eye. I think I'll give this stuff a shot on the final drive. I had been leaning toward matching the swingarm, but this is so close to original I have to go with it. This particular paint can be air dried, but to "cure", the instructions say to put the painted pieces in an oven at 200F for 20 minutes. I did that with this piece. I'd like to do that with the final drive, too. I don't see any reason I can't stick the whole final drive in the oven at 200F for 20 minutes. I'd remove oil drain bolts, of course. I'd imagine most grease (P.O.x2 seems to have been a fan of red grease) would be okay up to that temperature. Cheers, Frey
  3. Oh, I forgot to mention the other V11. I haven't actually ridden "it", yet (currently sans rear wheel, drive, and swingarm), so it probably doesn't deserve a name. But, I've taken to calling it "Bubbles". I suppose that could be a lady's name , but that wasn't the inspiration.
  4. I have (had) all three: women, men, and neutral. The first two are BMWs and ladies: Ada (R1200R) and Brunhilde (R1100RL). Ada is nimble and quick. Brunhilda is a mother, carrying her one-wheeled cub on her right. And then third Beemer (F800GS) is a dude, Carl. I think there was a bit of a leap in finding that the F8 was male, to wit, getting past the idea of straddling and gripping a male. Out in the wilderness riding the rough stuff and getting dirty, though, I want to be with a dependable, rugged buddy, not a lady. So, Carl. Interestingly, the Italian beauty in the fleet is just "the Tenni" or "the Goose" or "the Green Goose". And the V1000 is "the Popemobile" or "the Rototiller". Both genderless. Just MACHINES. Maybe there's some grace in that: synergy between rider and machine; no need to personify. Well, with the V11 at least. The V1000 might as well be a tractor... Cheers, Frey
  5. This is what I see: I haven't cracked the final drive open. I wasn't going to go there. But, I gather you're going to tell me that would be foolish...
  6. Final drive is stripped and about ready for paint. Some unsightly areas where there was a lot of corrosion. I have both a semi-gloss and a crinkle paint. Will shoot a scrap of alu and see how they look.
  7. Man, Scud, your Scura is impossibly clean (nice Turismo Veloce behind yours, too). I do see that the final drive is flatter than the swingarm. Maybe I'll just paint my swingarm, too (it cleaned up pretty well).
  8. Well, the more I thought about, the more I thought it's going to be a PITA to strip out everything. No obvious issues with the rear drive; oil looked unremarkable. Plus, I don't have a ring nut socket and I don't want to start whacking the thing with a drift. Stopped by Adv. Auto on my way home from work today and picked up aircraft stripper and paint. I got the VHT wrinkle plus, thinking it may be a decent approximation of the original fuzzy finish. That said, I have reservations about the fuzzy finish and thought I might instead use a semi-gloss black to (try to) match the swingarm. I know there are some threads about the wrinkle/crinckle paint for the engine, but I haven't read up on them. I'll strip tonight and think about the paint some more... Happy to accept any thoughts on the paint options. Cheers!
  9. Powder coater is going to love me: Remote clutch hose and bleeder valves arrived today. Unfortunately, much (job) work ahead. Probably two weeks of shite ahead before I can devote much attention to Bubbles.
  10. After a couple weeks well below freezing, it 50 degrees today in Happy Valley! Too much salt and gravel on the roads to take the Tenni out. Champagne is in too many pieces. So, pushed the GS across the skating rink/driveway and rode the pork chops to the powder coater. They'll order a pound and shoot a test piece for me. I'm thinking the color ("anodized red"), if it matches the swatch, is not cherry enough, but the finish looks good. Got the swing arm cleaned up today and it looks reasonably good. It will be a shame to cover it up with the ridiculously large hugger -- maybe I'll look into CF. No, no, no! This is a parts bike. Clean it up and ride it. Don't throw $$$ at it unnecessarily! We'll see.
  11. The Tenni doesn't have this washer. I believe PO (x2) had advertised this Tenni as having "expensive" aftermarket foot controls. I have no idea if the "expensive" part is true. Works well and looks tasteful. It will be good to have the chops back from the powder coater and an excuse to take the Tenni apart for a good cleaning and polishing. Let me know if you have a spare washer, @Scud. Otherwise, I'll go to Ace and pick something up (maybe sister a couple washers).
  12. Thanks. Loosened. Will try snugging everything down slowly and doing seat subframe and long arms to engine block last. Of note, when I took it things apart, there was no washer (#6, below) between the shoulder bolt (#5) and the pork chop. I gather that one is necessary to get a tight fit with the subframe there. Anybody know the thickness of that washer off hand? I saw a site that appeared to indicate it's 3mm thick. Really?
  13. Before and after pics: U-joint greased and reinstalled with cover. I had to scrape off the grime with a plastic putty knife.
  14. Hoping those old pork chops will come out well enough to migrate to the Tenni. Then I can move the ones currently on the Tenni over to the champagne. However, I (mostly -- more on that below) got the dark silver pork chop on the bike today. I set the side cover on to mock up the finished product. Though I love the "raw" pork chops, these well done chops look quite dapper with the champagne color scheme, IMHO. Just one problem: the pork chop fit is just a bit off. After wire-brushing the spine's T end flange that receives the plate, I put the plate on and tightened up the 4 bolts to the flange. I then snugged the top bolt for the rear (seat) subframe, followed by the bottom nut for the transverse bar. Now I have about 1.15 millimeters between the pork chop and the lower frame attachment point (the connector being the double-duty shoulder bolt/"pin" that also serves as the pivot for the brake lever. I tried to hold the light directly under that point to give an idea of the space between the two. Measured with feeler gauge at ~1.15 mm. Question: Have you encountered a less than perfect fit at this frame mounting point? If so, did you shim it with a washer? I thought tightening the bolt would easily take up that gap, but I didn't want to overdo it. I have checked the other connections and I am happy with them -- nice flush fit against the circular frame flange and other points. Suggestions? Thanks.
  15. It did pssst. Surprised me. Squeezed out the old grease and it's swivelling much better (was only one direction it seemed to hang up).
  16. Speaking of shafts ... I would imagine that a nicely greased unit would be a bit more flaccid. Does this coupler standing proud indicate that the grease is beat?
  17. Chemical or mechanical means to strip the finish that didn't just flake off? How does that old finish respond to media blasting? If blasted, do I need to polish before powder coating to get that deep-looking finish?
  18. Chuck, what look like cracks in the metal are in fact where the cracks in the finish were before I peeled the loose finish off. The grime accumulated under those cracks and remained there giving the appearance of cracks in the metal.
  19. That's a precious part; should be gold plated. But, seems like a necessary investment to avoid future headache. Somebody (i.e., not me) should cobble a score of these together and sell to the forum.
  20. Do you have a part reference for that? Cheers.
  21. I'm not seeing an image, Lucky Phil.
  22. What's the interval for bleeding the clutch fluid? How big a pain is the job ordinarily?
  23. Removed side plate (one side at a time; replaced with nice silver plates). The pic below is the left plate just with me picking off the loose flakes. I've read in other posts that the pot metal Guzzi used on these pork cops has so many impurities that off-gassing during powder coating baking has lead to not great results. Likewise, some have said that anodized finish is not good. Some have had success with paint under clear. These parts clearly take a beating, so I'd like as durable a finish as possible. Also, I'd be happy to drop these of at my local powder coater and have them deal with it instead of me goofing it up with paint. Has anyone out there had success with anodizing or powder coating pork chops? If not, I'll order some paint.
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