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BLIGHT

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BLIGHT last won the day on October 9 2018

BLIGHT had the most liked content!

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About BLIGHT

  • Rank
    Guzzisti
  • Birthday 07/20/1955

Previous Fields

  • My bikes
    VFR1200, XR1200, GL1000, Thruxton 900, CB750K4, etc.
  • Location
    Salinas-Monterey CA

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  • Interests
    Motorcycles, Guitars, Photography, Engineering, Computers, Cars, Music, Food, Beer... in no particular order

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  1. BLIGHT

    BLIGHT

  2. Good point...man, so sorry that happened to her! Crap! I have noticed a lot of wear on the tread center with the V11 than my other bikes... even some with way more hp! Probably some too due to deceleration on the center going into the corner, and then acceleration out on the straights. I hardly use the rear brake except for lightly trailing it into a corner to set the rear end on decel. I bet with all the engine compression braking on decel, there is a lotta raggity wear on the tire from the lumpy engine 'tugs'. BLIGHT
  3. You may have already done this, but standard Guzzi set up is to run the absolute minimum of throttle cable slack. It helps control the throttle better and that removes some of the herky jerky behavior. Thanks for the suggestion, I'll take a look at it. One thing I read somewhere was that the V11 injection is shut down 100% on closed throttle for max engine braking and to virtually eliminate backfire/popping on decel. Once the revs reach about 1200 rpm or so, the idle speed injection rate kicks in about when you pull in the clutch to come to a stop. You can actually feel it if you try. Oth
  4. Upon inspection, no discernible play or visible wear in the final spline drive to the rear wheel hub. Even the rubber cush-drives looked fine, no signs of visible deterioration in 16 yrs! So, it seems the combined driveline lash is between: 1) Lash between pinion and ring gear 2) Driveshaft u-joints and splined section in shaft 3) Three shafts in the (excellent) 6 speed transmission 4) Flex in the torque-rod rubbers between frame and final drive under accel & decel 5) Final splined drive to rear wheel Cush Drives IMO, the transmission shafts & gears acco
  5. Hey guys, well I drained the rear-drive oil today. Wasn't much of it from what I was expecting, but it looked clean and free of particulates, but it had under 2000 miles on it. Not sure what the previous owner used, but he was an older guy and was meticulous with this motorcycle maintenance. Anyway, I replaced the old gear oil with Lucas (my favorite) 75W-90 rear end oil, synthetic. I use it in all of my other shaft drive bikes and transmissions, and they all seem happy with no leaks, noises or poor shifting. Drained and refilled up to the level port where it started to dri
  6. Thank God! The whole mechanical Guzzi system is designed to fail, from one end to the other! The electronic GPS Speedhut gauges are wonderful, and BTW, look especially cool at night! It's all digital, no whirring gears, cables or plastic speedo/odo gears to shear (in my case) and cost you $$ for eternity. There is a time to fix it once and for all, and you made the right decision with the SpeedHuts! BLIGHT
  7. Speedhut GPS speedo... Simply the best. Get a matching tach too!
  8. Hello Blight,My bike is exactly the same as your video. It is bad enough that riding slowly in first gear is uncomfortably jerky. All the backlash is between the output splines of the bevel box and the rear wheel. I thought the same as you, that the bevel box was failing, but no. You could check that backlash again with the rear wheel off to see if yours is the same.. See also https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20324 I tried installing the rear wheel after applying mould release spray and aluminised epoxy to the spline. After the epoxy cured, I greased the spline, refitted t
  9. Whew! I feel better now. I actually first thought it might be the rubber wheel inserts-cushions possibly disintegrating... I'll check 'em. I looked through the various online 'fiche' I could find, and see the 1100 Sport used spherical rod-ends and tubing for the torque rod.... no rubber? That would really tighten it up I bet! I raised the rear wheel off the ground, put the bike in gear and rotated the wheel back and forth by hand, stop to stop. Looked to be about 1" (at the tire edge) of total slop in the final drive, driveshaft splines, three transmission shafts, etc. Tha
  10. Hi guys, Since were on the topic of ring and pinion gears, I've been riding the 2003 V11 Sport, running perfectly, with now "approximately" 12,000 miles on it. I say 'approximately', because the Veglia ODO was working intermittently when I bought it, so who knows? It indicated ~11,000 miles when I replaced it with the SpeedHut GPS unit, now showing 680 miles, so... about 12K miles total (minimum) I would say. Lately I have noticed a lot of driveline lash that seems to be getting more pronounced...on-off throttle just seems really sloppy in that feeling of transition. I have oth
  11. After looking at it, I am going to add a protective screen over the oil-cooler. It measures about 8.50" x 4.25", so I'll take a look at the local hardware store for a stainless steel perforated screen to fit over the dainty little cooler. I'm in a cool and stable year-round climate, so a little loss in cooling efficiency with the screen in place shouldn't affect the max oil temp much. On the other side, a large rock or other road shrapnel thrown up off of the back of the front wheel into the delicate oil cooler... it could ruin your day! The shorter rear of the new CF front fe
  12. HI, I repainted my V11 rims a few months ago. They were the original dark gray color, and I didn't like it much, and it was all scratched up by P.O. tire changes. I bought some Rust-Oleum 7250830 metallic black wheel paint at Amazon, masked the tires and painted the wheels to get it purtier for the Quail Gathering.... I think they look super! Fine sand or use 3M Scotchbrite pads on the old paint to give it some 'tooth', and apply 2-3 coats, letting them dry several minutes between coats. I've used this same paint on other project bike wheels, and it's quite durable and looks excell
  13. Hey guys, I have also been looking for a V11 Sport CF rear seat (pillion) cowl for months.... they are 'unobtanium' I guess. I thought one of the V11 models had it? Or none? I have an ebay spare V11 painted pillion cowl, so I might get a CF 'skinning kit' and try it myself. There are ebay kits for about 70 USD. It's a pretty easy DIY project compared to other stuff I've done in my shop. Here's how it's done: BLIGHT
  14. HI, thanks.... the rear section is really just unbolting unnecessary parts, and then I fabbed up a plate-mount and a separate but simple bracket for smaller turn-signals... easy-peasy. There was no cutting involved, so it could be returned to stock....although I don't know why anyone would. Cheers! Thanks! The CF flyscreen is a Ducati part (Monster?) and I searched the entire internet to find some 3D 'gel' Moto Guzzi stickers the right size and color. I put the silver V11 screen on my Triumph Thruxton, and made a 'Thruxton' vinyl sticker to cover the silver flying Eagle.
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